31st May 2005 - Plymouth to Bayona - Day 3

Posted at 5:21 AM, Tuesday, May 31, 2005

Swagman Log – Tuesday 31^st May 2005

The first pod of Dolphins found us at 0415 in the morning.

We were bowling along making 6 knots or so when they streaked in from the west to have us all jumping around on the foredeck squeaking.

I have to ask in these circumstances just who was coming to see who – and who was squeaking the most!

As always it was a lovely sight and one indicator of the sunnier climes to come.  But shortly after, what breeze there was died. 

So it was motor on at 0730, and breakfast as we motored onward at 5 knots.

The boat can do 9 knots flat out under motor, but we’d chosen to conserve fuel and run only very moderate revs when we really had to.  With the 560 mile trip, consumption even at that speed and the 240 litre tank – we had to be careful.  We did have a spare 30 litres, in plastic cans stored below.

By midday we were at 46.00 N, 07.39 W, having covered 62 nm since midnight.  The midday forecast reported the high we were crossing was almost stationery so we had no choice but to plod on under motor and escape out the other side as quickly as we could.

During the early morning we had tracked the lights of another yacht closing slowly with us from the west.  They were clearly going faster under engine - it was the X44 called X11 Bar Blues.

A brief chat on the VHF indicated they were now very low of fuel, having a capacity of only 160 L.  Our tank was bigger and as we still had 120 L at that stage, we asked them if they would care to take our spare 30 litres in the cans?

As that extra fuel may stop them having to pull into Corunna it made sense – so we turned hard right and motored to link up 6 miles out from our course – and passed it all over.  With no wind and glassy seas the transfer was a doddle.

As evening fell the wind tried to fill in from the north, and by 2150 we had the engine off and sliding along at 3 / 4 knots before a building breeze.  Even more pods of Dolphins joined with us as we continued southwest, and we sighted several whales blowing as they headed north at sunset.

A slow sail into the night, but a brilliant display of shooting stars and lots of fun searching for satellites in the night sky.  They were almost close enough to touch.

At midnight we were at 45.01N, 08.14W, a distance of 64 miles covered since midday.  

We were all feeling good hoping we were about to exit the high pressure area – and hopefully finding the stronger breezes of southern Biscay.

30th May 2005 - Plymouth to Bayona - Day 2

Posted at 5:18 AM, Monday, May 30, 2005

Swagman Log – Monday 30^th May 2005

It could have been a lovely night sail if one was not trying to race other yachts! 

As we continued to beat slowly on a S / SW course before a variable light SW / W breeze, we had to alternate between sail and motor just to keep moving.  

The sky gave us big clouds looming black and ominous out to the SW, and we even had one light spatter of rain.

As we closed Ushant our second dilemma arose. 

Our Raymarine / Navionics Gold charting software showing the direction of the two traffic flows were totally at variance with the pilot and the paper charts! 

It may seem absolutely incredible one could be wrong in such an important matter – especially as the charting software was only purchased weeks ago.

We decided that the paper charts were most likely to be correct, but took a stab out to the west to avoid the zone completely - just in case we’d also got it wrong.  As we again tacked south and slid past the zone, the lights of the other ships transiting the zone indicated Raymarine / Navionics definitely had it wrong!

As we progressed south west into an increasingly lumpy sea searching for the breeze that created it – we struck lucky.  At sun rise we were making a good 7 knots boat speed into a WSW F4.  The boat was up and charging along.

During the night we had attempted to keep track of the few other rally yachts lights, but in daylight it was harder to pick up any.  The horizon seemed empty.

At 1000 we sighted one blue hulled yacht on the horizon in front of us, but it was too far off to identify.  As we suspected most would have motored more than we did it could have been any one of the five blue yachts in the fleet.

Midday UTC saw us at 48.01N, 06.26W.  The morning run of 87 nautical miles in the past 13 hours (we’d moved from BST to UTC) gave us a VMG speed of 6.5 knots.  Not good, but much better than day one.

The midday weather relayed by the rally radio net indicated a high pressure system settling in mid Biscay.  This was definitely not what we wished to hear as a high usually comes with light or no winds – and in coming from the direction we wished to go! 

We had no choice but to angle our course slightly west of the rhumb line to find the shortest line through the high, and waited to see what arrived.

As sun set what wind there was died – so on again went the engine for about 90 minutes.  Then the breeze, now warm but still light, filled in from the SW and gave me what has to be one of the greatest sails I’ve ever had through the night.

The wind rarely topped F2, but the seas were as flat as glass and Swagman trucked on more like a true race boat than the cruiser she is. 

We had to tack down our rhumb line towards Finisterre, but maintained speeds over 6 knots, and pointing closer than 30 degrees to the breeze, in true breeze of only 7 knots!

Our sparking wake seemed to reflect the star filled sky as we swooped southwards.

Midnight saw us at 46.57N, 07.11W. 

A total distance covered in the past 12 hours of 68 miles, giving a VMG of only 5.5 knots.

But we were loving it.

29th May 2005 - Plymouth to Bayona - Day 1

Posted at 5:15 AM, Sunday, May 29, 2005

Swagman Log – Sunday 29^th May 2005

Typical isn’t it. 

We sit out three days pre start at Plymouth with fair SW’ly breezes, and this morning we awoke to a totally windless morning for the start of our rally to Portugal.

Like the rest of the fleet we were up early to complete our last minute chores.  We found a need to buy spare 12v globes from the early opened chandlery - rigged up the sheets and braces just in case we could fly a spinnaker on the line - filed our departure declaration with rally control – and began to feel the excitement levels rise as we cast off and headed round the corner towards the starting area off the Royal Plymouth Corinthian Yacht Club with race music on deck speakers.

Our pre-race choice was Pink Floyd and ‘Dogs of War’.

We hoisted the mainsail, switched off the engine, and gently circled almost on the start line before a very light easterly whiff of breeze.

As our course over the start line was to send us off to the south west – that whiff of air was good enough for me to call for the spinnaker to be hauled in it’s snuffer from the anchor locker - and we rigged it ready to hoist as the last few minutes were counted down.

As the start team completed the starting sequence and the horn sounded to declare we were off - we heaved up the spinnaker and pulled on the snuffer, expecting it to fill with maybe not a crack - but at least a gentle rustle. 

Sadly it did neither. 

With zero breeze it draped like limp washing in front of us and the whole fleet just sat there, drifting oh-so-slowly over the start line.

Rally control had already granted us all a dispensation on when we could start engines (normally not until 15 minutes after a start), but this did not come into effect until five minutes after the spectators could have a good sight of us all sitting wallowing on the line.  So exactly on time, each and every other yacht fired up engines, pulled down headsails, and one by one chugged past us heading SW.  We stupidly persevered. 

Idiots really. 

Ever hopeful the breeze would fill and allow us to sail away, we sat there just off the spectator filled mole that marked the other end of the start line.

In those circumstances, with the spectators now all looking at the only boat (us) - and presumably wondering what we were doing – the 15 minute period before we also succumbed to the motor felt like a very long time. 

I am sure I heard one kid asking ‘Dad, why’s that boat starting so long after the others’ as we chugged off following the fleet out across Plymouth Sound to exit the bay.

As we caught up with the other yachts their differing route began to be revealed. 

The biggest yacht, the 55’ Discovery Magic in company with one or two others, took off heading more SSW – aiming directly for Ushant 100 miles away to presumably shave the French coast and head onward across Biscay.  Perhaps one third of the fleet, ourselves included, headed on a line aiming to clear the traffic separation zone at Ushant – so we almost SW. 

The majority headed more W, almost coast hopping.  The one thing we all had in common was a desire to find some wind!  With a total distance of 560 miles to cover – a tank that holds 240 litres – and consumption between 2 / 3 litres per mile – it was clear we could not motor the whole way.

So the moment we felt the stirring of a light SW’ly breeze we dumped the engine and began to sail.  It was slow progress – and not quite on the course we wished.  But at least we were heading south.

We did meet another going the opposite way.  A pigeon – clearly ringed but obviously tired – circled us to land along the boom.  He or she sat there for 30 minutes gaining some puff – and eventually took off heading straight north for the UK coast.  We all felt certain he / she would make it.

Late afternoon and we still sailing, and were passed by some of the other yachts who sensibly chose to motor for longer that us.  The pretty Vancouver 38 ‘Wildbird’ came so close we were able to take reasonable pictures of them.

As night fell, so did that light breeze.  We ended up alternating twix motor and sail whenever we could, making at best 3 or 4 knots of boat speed, and then faced our own first routing decision.  As we had sagged off to the south, did we now go inside, or outside, or through, the traffic control zone off Ushant?

As inside gave us a straighter line and therefore less distance to travel that was the course we chose.  The half moon came up over the eastern horizon like huge red ball – the smooth wake we laid was full of phosphoresence (?) glowing behind us – and our day ended at midnight with us closing Ushant - at 49.16 N, 05.17 W having made 77 miles since the 0900 start. 

Sad cases really with an average of just over 5 knots for that first day, but we were at least sailing and heading in the right general direction.

28th May 2005 - The Fleet is Gathering

Posted at 7:10 AM, Saturday, May 28, 2005

We arrived in Plymouth on the 26th after stopping over one night on a mooring up at Salcomb just so I could watch the Champions League soccer at the local pub!  I skipped off the yacht once we'd found a mooring byuoy in double quick time and left Sue and Robbie to enjoy sundowners in a stunning location.  

Rolled back in after Liverpools win (great result and some new friendship established with locals) at 2300.  Found the boat in darkeness.  Both girls were snoring gently and two red wine bottles rolled in the sink.

Sailed against the flooding spring tide at 0900 into a light fog.  Gave us a chance to try out our automated foghorn en-route to Plymouth 17 miles west.  Works well.

We've had a big electric horn connected to the radio and its fixed under the anchor locker lid.  It certainly makes it easy as we only switch it to automatic use and it does the job.  With the noise it makes, other boats must think we are a huge vessel. 

Gerry was waiting as we pulled into Mayflower Marina at Plymouth, and Marcus and Angie arrived a day later.

Their arrival sparked a boozy lunch under the bimini in brilliant sun - and then out to crew briefing last night before back to Mayflowers Bistro for a paella and a few more cleansing ales.

Gerry and Angie both feeling a tad seedy this morning as we arose to F4 SW'ies from an overcast sky with spots of driven rain.  Spent the day in city buying fresh veggies etc, have the skippers briefing and formal farewell party later tonight.

Weathers looking highly variable but probaly not the steady N'lies as previously forecasted.

Buggeration.

Have said our hello's to a lot of fellow participants last night and they seem a good mob.  I am sure new friendships along with some competition will develop over the course of the rally.  We have yet to be allocated our handicaps but once we have I will advise on those yachts we need to watch out for and maybe cover!  Oh sorry - did not mean to say that that.  Repeat after me. 

Its not a race, its a rally. 

Its a race not a rally. 

er..........

Regards

JOHN

22nd May - Lymington to Dartmouth

Posted at 6:18 AM, Monday, May 23, 2005

Went to bed last night on the boat after a boozy send off party at the Fishermans up the road from the Marina.  I's like to say I was concerned about the weather for today - but not due to alchoholic stupor.

The early morning forecast was still for fresh to strong conditions, out of the SW and going W - so we agreed to depart after we woke at 0700 - and if we found it too heavy going agreed to use either Poole or Weymouth as a bolt hole.

Spring tide was on the flood as we motored down river in bright sunshine with a chill in the air.  We hung a left and bucked the tide down through Hurst Narrows, through the swirling overfalls close by the fort, and motor sailed out through the North Channel.  I was surprised at the amount of tide against us in that channel - at times as much as 4 knots - but by 0830 we'd cleared the channel, histed full saisl, and were off beating into a light 8/10 knot S-S/W'ly.

We attempted to call pals Moira and Stewart on VHF as we crossed Christchurch Bay - it was a promise made last night as they have a riverside home in Christchurch itself - but no joy.  Clearly still sleeping it off.

There was enough S in the breeze to allow us to aim for and clear Anvil Point on the one port board.  Slipping along nicely with no sign of the stronger conditions yet to come.

By 1100 the tide had turned in our favour as we sailed close by the cliffs at Anvil Point.  The breeze had built to 12 / 13 and when gusts started to appear up to 16 knots, we set our first reef.  

It became obvious we would not clear the next headland - St Albans Head - on the port board, so seeking some searoom to also avoid the overfalls at St Albans Ledge, we tacked once and picked a line about 4 miles out.  We tacked back to parallel the coast as some rain arrived and the breeze settled at 15/16 knots.  A single reef worked well as we were making up to 7 knots hunting to windward.

Slipping in the aminsail reefs with the single line system and electric winches is simplicity itself - why have I not had these before?

The ebbing tide gave us 10/11 knots over the ground as we kept up high on port board to also ensure would leave The Shambles Bank to starboard.  Even without the shallow waters of the Bank, the SW wind and SW ebbing tide was already creating a lumpy sea in our 50+M of water.  As we passed to seaward we could see the surf caused by the conditions over the bank - had we tried to go through it we would have got very wet!

As we passed Portland Bill around 1330 and shaped up to cross Lyme Bay, the breeze and the seas built even further, so the second reef went and we settled down to really bashing our way to windward.  Lots of slamming, occassional green one over the bow, but plenty of spray generated.  Sue enjoyed helming which allowed me to drop off asleep under the sprayhood - but taking over at the helm after I managed to take a big wet faceful way back at the wheel.  That woke me up!

By 1600 the breeze began to veer West and build further to 20/22 knots - gusts of 25.

By 1700, still 20 miles out from Dartmouth, it became obvious we could not lay the river mouth on the one board, and we were faced with a decision to keep sailing, or switch on the donk.

We chose to be cruisers.  Leaving the reefed main up to aide stability we fired up the engine and bashed onward - straight into the wind.

We made the Dart River by 1830.  The last hour was pushing into 30 knots true and gusts sometimes higher - but as we closed the river mouth the seas gradually flattened due to the protection of the shoreline - and we pushed past the Mewstones and turned up into the the sheltered river entrance.

The Dart is steep sided and well protected from W'lies - and it was very placid as we chugged up to Dartmouth town by 1900 - and took a a vacant berth at Darthaven Marina on Kingswear side.  Inside 30 minutes Sue had showered, I'd settled into a bottle of red wine - and an hour later we were both fast asleep.

We plan to stop over here for Monday and Tuesday - when Robbie Smith joins us from Australia.