Figueira da Foz to Cascais 7th August

Posted at 1:51 PM, Sunday, August 9, 2009

Awoke at dawn for this legs early departure, hoping to both minimise wave heights at the river mouth by exiting at the 7 am high tide plus also trying to make it to Cascais (105 mile leg) in daylight.  Cabo da Gata is the last headland as we arrive off Cascais, and nbot good at night as it is notorious for being strewn with lobster pots.

It worked on both fronts.

The Foz river mouth was flat water with no breaking swell to worry about, and the wind was from the north and first up quite fresh.  Swagman romped along before the wind and what later grew to be a 3.4 metre swell, often topping 9 knots under main and genoa alone.  We sailed the angles keeping the wind off our aft quarter, meaning we zig zagged going out towards the islands off Peniche and then gybing back in towards Cabo da Gata making our way south.

These islands off Peniche look all barren and deserted as one approaches from the north, but when alongside one can see the small community that exists there year roundnestled close by the light house. 

One other interesting building set on the south east shore was we first thought a prison - there is another big one we visited once in Peniche ashore.  A salient reminder Portugal has had a dictator in the not too distant past.  But this building turned out to be a fortified monastery built by the monks of St John the Baptist back in the 16thcentury.  Seems they had as many Moorish pirates visit in those days as they apparently get ferry visitors today.  They've even installed a restaurant for guests.

We finbally whooshed around the headland that protects Cascais about 7 pm, dodged the pots like a winger dodging a back line, and finally fetched up into the luxurious marinas reception pontoon as dusk fell.  Around 9pm. 

This facility is big, but despite high season it seemed more than half empty.  They are not cheap - and as this place was packed when we visited in 2005, we guess it lost lots of clients to an even newer (but possibly cheaper) marina at Oeiras just 4 miles away towards Lisbon.

We’ve both been looking forward to Cascais despite thehigh prices.  The town is the Portuguese version of St Tropez or Portofino.  Estorille isjust next door, and the locals do treat it as a favoured resort.

It is very chique with trendy boutiques down prettily cobbled streets, buildings nicely restored, and half naked bronzed ladies draped all over the beaches. 

Nice private villas and houses also .  Clearly lots of city workers build their seaside mansions out here.

As the Wallabies were playing Springboks in the Tri-Nations Saturday I simply decamped to the local Irish Bar all arvo.  Despite my telepathic support from a long distance, we sadly saw them go down to a team that's almost certain to win the Championship.  Despite the loss to a superior side it was an action packed game, and very sad to see some of the Auzzies loose their discipline and composure - resulting in them giving away so many points.  It's usually the other way round playing the Africans.  Shame.  

Shame also to listen to Robbie Deans (who I used to really admire) sounding like a real negpot in the pre game interview.  He gave the impression we did not stand a chance.   Not inspiring really.  Bugger result. 

Sue on the other hand spent the same afternoon watching the Portuguese Junior National Show Jumping Championships being conducted in an adjacent park. I joined to watch also on Sunday.  Superb venue, some fabulous looking horse - very and talented young riders. How do they control such beasties, eh?

Oh, one correction re rugby and re yachting to a previous posting. 

Do you recall our newly chartered yacht club, the one proposed by Alan Sparkes when in A Coruna?  Well it seems it is not named the Wobbly Yacht Club as I previously reported.  With the greatest respect Alan pointed out we’d agreed a spelling of ‘The Waballies’ Yacht Club. My apologies for getting this play on the Wallabies name sooooo wrong.

Anyway, the sun is still up and it is warm as.  We're lovin it after the lousy stuff for the past month.  As winds today (Sunday) are topping 30 knots (and whilst it would make for a quick ride down to Sines pronounced Sinesh) 60 miles south, it could also be a bumpy night in Sines slightly 'open to the north' marina. 

Astomorrow winds are supposed to be down under 15 knots, we’ve resolved to stay one more night in Cascais before heading off again.  If we enjoy the sail towards Sines and do make good time, we may just keep going right round Cabo St Vincent to Lagos............

Off for drinks tonight on a three week old Amel 54 being sailed back from France to it's home in Malaysia.  Super boat.  Jealous as.  Real nice guys, met them in A Coruna and again said hello in Portosin.  

After drinkies we're out to revisit a cliffside restaurant we found last time here to enjoy a cheapo meal, a beer, the locals and the sunset.

Ahhhh.

 Catch you soon.

John and Sue

Leixoes to Figueira de Foz - 5th and now also 6th August

Posted at 10:45 AM, Thursday, August 6, 2009

Not much that's new to report really. 

Awoke yesterday to find the fog still around us although visibility has out to maybe 100 yards.  Dinghied over the still waters into the marina, then up to the office where we completed (with help) the required Portuguese entry documents. 

Despite being part of the EU, Portugal still insist on each visiting boat checking in to every port with both police and customs declarations.  They say all part of their battle against drug smuggling. Methinks it keeps more people employed.  Can't argue that one.

The big harbour is a busy place, being not just a oil landing spot but also the entry route to get up river to Porto itself.  Big ships sedately move move in an out with lamps glowing in the fog, with little yellow and black pilot boats buzzing along in front like bees. 

We left around 10 am to motor southward through the mist gradually angling further and further offshore until we broke out into brilliant sunshine around midday.  What was even more exciting was finding we were at last in a warm gentle 10 knot breeze from behind us - just what the doctor ordered to push us further on without the engine running.

So with engine and T shirts off, we slid southward under sail all arvo making for Figueira da Foz, some 70 miles below Leixoes. 

Figueira is placed on the northern bank of the Foz River, apparently the longest river to rise in Portugal.  The name Figueira means the The Big Fir Tree and there are still huge fir forests running off northward behind the long sandy beaches here.  It is a modern town with good facilities, depending largely on shipbuilding and tourism.  The marina is a short distance upstream from the river mouth, into which we plunged.

Even as we came in over the river mouth sand bar and it was only in moderate swell and 20 knots of breeze from behind, the seas built so that Swagman almost surfed her way in.  Seems the then outgoing ebb of 3 knots from the river helped contribute to this danger every day.

As it happens I love that kind of wave action and enjoyed sailing down the wave faces, but a British yacht was lost making this entry in 1997 and one can certainly see how it could easily happen.  They report the ebb can run at up to 7 knots if it hasbeen raining inland - so if you ever come in here maybe worth checking if its been raining up country in the few days before?  There were big cranes and buckets working even as we arrived, extending the northern mole extending from the entrance.  Maybe to give more protection?? Who knows.

Unfortunately as we finished the job of tying up off the police jetty, then having to untie and manouver over to take a berth, with me skipping around the deck like the young sportsman I think I am, I twisted my ankle (like the idiot we all know I can be).  Ouch.  It hurt.

So now looks like we're staying here for 48 hours to give the swelling a chance to go down. Upside is good internet connection so I can update the blog and leave Sue to the pleasures of shopping alone.

With drugs, luck, and fair winds, tomorrow we should be off to complete a long leg of 105 miles to reach Cascais off Lisbon - from where it is really a hop skip and jump to our final destination of Lagos.  We are certainly covering this coast as a pace this time round. 

Do you think God via my ankle is trying to slow us down???

Cheers

JOHN and SUE

Rias Baixas (Spain) and Leixoes (Portugal) 2nd to 4th August

Posted at 9:55 AM, Thursday, August 6, 2009

We sailed down the coast Sunday after leaving Portosin. The weather was warm but the wind spasmodic.  The seas were glassy and flat, the sun warm, so we simply sailed when the breeze was there, and motored when it dropped.

We took a pretty route staying initially close inshore and then threading our way inside the islands that lay across the entrances of the Rias Baixos – the three big indents into the Atlantic coastline.

The islands of Salvora, Ons and Onza are all national reserves and unspoilt.  They have a few small cafes and a couple of state run camping grounds, but to even visit by boat one requires advance permission and a piece of paper saying so.  It is obvious lots of Spanish boats go visit on a day sail - and I'm sure most of those do not comply - but I did not want to risk it ourselves so continued sailing along.

Each island protects it's relative ria from heavy ocean swells and invariably on the inside of each are sheltered bays usually with a white sandy beach.  Just like the many others that dot the north and south shores of each ria.  All round it's been a very pretty area - lots of small villages with off-lying anchorages or small marinas to choose from.  And great music.

The wind did settle finally to a steady breeze so our last 20 miles down across the face of the Ria Vigo was a pretty relaxed sail.  We slipped through the narrow gap twix the reef that protects Bayonas northern approaches and the adjacent headland to drop sails right off the town itself.

Here is one picture nicked from the web looking back north from Bayonas castle so you can see where we came in - plus another of the castle walls.

We’ve visited Bayona twice before and each time got lost in it’s charm.  It is a busy little town lying along the bay side and protected by a big 16th centry castle - now a luxury Parador Hotel.

They say this region has the highest housing costs anywhere in Spain (which I do find hard to believe) but but it’s small old town high street is packed with small pumpy bars that suit us well, and it has a choice of clean beaches to swim from.

The place seems used to visiting cruisers but it is still very 'Spanish'.  Nowhere near as much English spoken as you might find on the east (Med) coast.

Had planned to just anchor off instead of going into the Marina Deportivo or the Monte Real Marina, but after topping up with 100 litres of fuel at the Monte Real club, we found our throttle cable had broken, forcing us to stop over.  The club were very helpful, towing Swagman to a free berth, and helping me resource a new cable from nearby Vigo.

Here is the club house and one of its pontoons nestled below the castle.

I guess if one has to get stuck anywhere on this coast waiting for a spare part, then Bayona would have been our choice.  The weather stayed good, sunny and hot, good for walking and sparkling beach visits.  Luckily, the local festival which Bayona run on the Monday did not cover Vigo, so we got our part ordered OK plus bonus big fireworks at midnight!

Linked up with another British yacht named Low Flyer of Aberdeen who were out at anchor.  No, not Scottish - but surprisingly enoough local to us in the UK.  The guys were from Christchurch which is only 10 miles from our UK home location. 

Andy and Michelle Norman are just beginning a world cruise and for this leg were accompanied by their daughter Sam.  It did not take long before we were into ‘who they knew’ and ‘who we knew’ back in the UK and there were certainly lots of overlaps.  (Hello Brian)

Shared more than a few beers aboard and then later ashore, and ended up having a tapas type feast at a highly recommended Restaurant Novas Aires right up the top of the old town main lane.   A good Rioja, Calamari Romana, Chirizo, Goats cheese grilled over potatoes (not to missed), Gambas and home made Croquettes came to less than 20 euros a head.  Superb value.

Our new cable arrived Monday 1030 and whilst Sue went shopping I put the boat back together, and by 1200 it was all working OK and we quickly sorted our bill with the club and were butting our way out of the bay, hoisting sails into a fresh westerly wind.

We scooted off at a pace once we cleared the off lyting reefs and rocks, and turned around the headland in our journey south towards the Portuguese border some 20 miles south. 

We waved our goodbyes to the islands and rias of Spain, regretting we’d not had more time and maybe better weather to enjoy them mnore than we had.  But never the less - well worth the visit.

Excellent rocketing down along the coast to the border with Portugal - all smooth seas and sunshine.  Changed our courtesy flags as we slid past the Ria Mino marking the border, sailing only a mile or so offshore.  Lots of pots about as the waters were only 20 - 30 metres deep.  Not sure if they were Spanish or Portuguese.  Do know we got fed up with them.

A very relaxed arvo as we moved slightly further offshore to avoid the pots.  Swagman on autopilot.  Both of us sunbathing and checking out marine life.  Someone gave me a reference book on birds so enjoyed identifying the various gulls, shearwaters and terns that fly around this coastline.

The wind died away around 4 pm and by 5 pm we were drifting into patches of sea mist which soon enveloped us in a cold and damp real pea souper.  Snugs and engine on, and automatic foghorn tooting away each 2 minutes we crept southward with radar pinging.

By the time we passed the port of Pavoa (somwhere off to our right where we could have stopped but decided not to) the visibility was down to maybe 20 metres. Our collective heads were swivelling like meercats at every other noise out there.  It all gets amplified in the fog.  Found out our foghorn (attached to our radio) can also be used as a directional hearing device.  Very useful I am sure if we ever turned into spies.

Fortunately it seemed there was not too much out there to hear, let alone bump into.  Looking back after we realised we managed in our ignorance to sail right over a recently installed underwater wave generator (whoops), but we did manage to identify on the radar two fast fishing boats just off the entrance to Leixoes harbour and piloted ourselves right between the two, and then finally avoided a tanker and it’s pilot boat looming out of the fog exiting the harbour just as we were about to go in.  Very hectic last five minutes until finally coasting over to the preferred anchoring area just outside the small marina, and dropping our hook alongside another four yachts.

By the way, Leixoes is pronounced 'leeshonge'.

One of the other anchored yachts was Low Flyer from Christchurch.

The harbour was a tad spooky what with the fog and all.  The lamps from the shoreand from the big harbour walls were simply orange glowing balls.  All the other yachts looked deserted.  Even the marina and adjacent club house looked closed down.

So we sorted ourselves properly with anchor balls and illuminating anchor lamps, baked up a pizza, washed it down with our last bottle of reasonable French wine, and then got invited over to Low Flyer to share a nightcap and chat.

Today we need to clear in with Portuguese authorities before either deciding to stay and explore nearby Porto, or moving on south.

Cheers

JOHN and SUE

27th July to 3rd August – A Coruna and on into the Ria de Muros

Posted at 1:47 PM, Saturday, August 1, 2009

Had a relaxing four day stop over parked up alongside Sunboy enjoying the brand new marina and Coruna as July came to a sunny hot end.

The facilities in the new marina are all shiny and new.  Lots of stainless steel and teak.   With young marinaros and the girls in the office all seeming happy to help with anything. Plus freebie wifi. All good.

Coruna as a city and port is steeped in history.  Its natural harbour was the landing place used by early Atlantic facing peoples who travelled southward in centuries past, and they say this is the connection that linked Galicia with the Celtic culture.

The place was further developed by successive races.  Even the Phoenicians and later the Romans are recorded as creating trading posts here.  In fact the big landmark lighthouse out on the headland is built around the original Roman version.  

Sue and I got the bikes out and used them to explore the coastline.  Truly stunning from shore side,  and some great secluded beaches.  Plus the water felt warm!

The new marina is right alongside the old town so we used its narrow alleys some days just to get out of the sun, on other we explored the shops.  The alleys invariably led to wide squares surrounded by tall elegant granite buildings with many having intricate galleried balconies. 

Clearly the locals are just like Spanish peoples everywhere, loving to promenade especially as the sun goes down. For me it seemed a nice mix of Palma de Mallorca and Cadiz.  A lovely place.

We enjoyed a great ‘Welcome to Spain and let’s get ready to Say Goodbye’ cockpit party with Sunboy.  Here’s (L to R) Nikki and Layni and Debs.

Here’s Al and Nikki’s boyfriend Luke.

Al and Debs formally advised they had established the Wobbly Yacht Club and presented me with a flag of the Southern Cross after nominating me Honorary Charter Commodore – and thanked us for our company on this stage in their big trip back to Australia. 

Al said the only rules he thought should apply to our new club were that all members need be Australian, and each must donate a case of half decent wine to the current commodore. I think we can allow honorary Aussies also. 

For maybe four cases.

Later than night we all staggered ashore to find an old fashioned tapas bar.  Spoilt for choice in the old town.  Can’t remember the name of the one we finally chose but suffice to say it was all great food and compared with Brittany absolutely super value. 

The adults had a cleanser or two on our way back to the boats whilst the younger ones went ahead.  Good night out, we'll miss Al and Debs a lot.  Great company.

Coruna is equally an all round good place I’m surprised we’ve not found it before.  So well laid out for exercise outdoors and so much to explore.  Whilst there Sue was able to stretch out and do some power walking.  Al and I enjoyed hunting to find a really old fashioned chandlers and getting them to sort me a new engine room blower (which I was pleased to fit before we moved on to even hotter locations).

It was a shame to leave but we did, being waved off by Al and Debs with our new flag flying early Friday morning.  Sunboy has all the time in the world to stay and explore inland and Coruna is a ideal place to do that from.  We on the other hand need to press on south for Lagos.

Sailed up and out of the Ria de Coruna in glorious sunshine, but just two hours later as we slid westward towards the corner so as to head down the Atlantic Glician coast, a cold front blasted in at 25 knots.  True to form inside a further 30 minutes the wind and rain came right round onto our nose, so it was engine on once more as we bashed and crashed onward, covering the 80 miles to our planned destination in Ria de Muros.

Remember thinking we might as well buy a power boat if this keeps up.

 It took us 12 hours to come round the top tip of Galicia and we got fog part of the way.  Sailing close by the famous Cape Finisterre got this snap in a break in the fog.  The water had flattened by then but the wind was still up, and low cloud / fog you can see just obstructing the cliff tops.

The rock is called Controlo de Cabo Finisterre.  We went outside it. 

The weather eased back fortunately for the last few hours and as we freed up and considered hoisting saisl, the sun came back.   Chasing a French trimaran that had come over the horizon (yes - we caught and overtook her) we then sailed up towards our destination in the Ria de Muros.  It’s those moments where with beer in hand, sun on your back, a competitor behind you, and strong winds whooshing you along at 9 or more knots, you wonder who even thought about a power boat!

We fetched up off the Club Nautica Marina in Portosin around 7 pm. 

It is a small club but they were very helpful and welcoming.  The marinaro directed us to a hammerhead off their clubhouse, and we decided not to even bother going further than the club bar and restaurant that evening. 

Enjoyed a good value and high quality dinner overlooking the marina and had great pleasure to link up with some fellow OCC sailors and share some cleansing ales.  Oops.  It's the wee hours. 

We were aiming to move on south today (Saturday) but having been told Portosin is staging its annual Blessing of the Sardine Fleet Party this evening and onto tomorrow, we're not.   We’re instead staying to take part in the festival with our new found pals of Moira, Peter and Bill.

Portonsin is very small, and definitely not what you’d call a pretty town. 

But it has a certain appeal for us, being so basic and non touristy.  The locals are very proud of their small fishing fleet and so they should.  Here are some dressed in flags ready to carry out the local priest to bless the waters off the town tomorrow morning.

Today (and the wet weather is still with us) they are prepping a big band stage and setting up a market and funfair in the small port square just along from the marina.  So we’re all on to Bills boat for grilled Sardines and beer before wandering in to join the locals sometime later tonight. 

Catch you soon.

Sue and John xx

25th and 26th July – Belle Ille (France) to Spain

Posted at 8:53 PM, Monday, July 27, 2009

I've started typing this in word as we've not got internet connection so far from land.

Am currently doing dog watch 5 am Sunday as Swagman rolls along motor-sailing across a rippled but calm sea about a third of the way out in the middle of Biscay.  Apart from Sunboy, there appears little else out on our bit of water.

We’re maybe 180 miles down our course from Belle Ille in France, with Gijon in Spain 110 miles in front of us.  France circa 150 miles to the east below the horizon.

Dawn is about to break over that horizon on my port side. 

It is feeling like one of those hazy summer mornings we used to enjoy every day when we lived in Australia.  Warm already before the suns up, with streaks of pale yellows, blues and pinks lighting up the sky as the sun gets ready to launch itself upward.   The engine is bubbling away in the background as we slide along with main up and using the motor to do 7 knots.  We've got Sunboy running parallel doing the same maybe 100 metres off to starboard, with her navigation lights reflecting back on that darker side.

Just for five minutes we have dawn to our left, night sky still to our right, and then the day arrived.

So......... methinks it's shaping up to be a nice day - second day out from Belle Ille.

We got away from the island 7 am yesterday (that was Saturday) to cross Biscay in company with Al and Debs and family on Sunboy - a fellow Hanse yacht .  Sliding out between the green and red lighthouses that mark Le Palais harbour entrance with our latest weather forecasts as downloaded last night telling us we’re sure to have a slow but beaut weather window to use for this crossing. 

The forecast said we’d awake Saturday to a high pressure system settling over us and true to form that arrived whilst we slept.  It brought with it as expected the warmer settled weather but settled usually means windless.  That's not exactly perfect for two sailboats wanting to cover 300 miles, but it is 100% suited for Sunboy as it is not only their first night passage operating as a family crew, but a definite first crossing such a notorious sea as Biscay.

Al Debs and family were obviously confident and well prepped but I think we all left Le Palais looking forward to what may lie ahead on the crossing but having some regrets leaving that lovely island.  If the weathjer had been better I am sure we'd have spent longer there.   Well worth returning when one has got two weeks completely free to laze around the island bays.

We ran our engines all day Saturday and on through the sunset and into the night.  

We were both fully stocked with fuel, enough and more to motor the whole way if that is required.

When we left Le Palais the seas around the end of the island were still quite bumpy with left-over slop from the earlier winds combined  with a strong outgoing tide, but it all eventually flattened out and we spent our daytime sunbathing, reading and generally relaxing as Swagman and Sunboy steered themselves southward alongside one another.   Here Sue and I laze back on a sailbag placed before the mast whilst the autohelm does all the work.

By the time dusk fell we were approaching the edge of the continental shelf where the bottom drops from 150 metres to 2500 metres in just a few miles.

It is this big change in water depth that makes this bay so dangerous in heavy weather on a big a big swell.  Big rollers cream in after running 3000miles over the Atlantic and when the sea bottom rises as it get to the shelf all the water has to go somewhere.  What can happen is for it to climb into the sky and then crash back down again - onto any yacht hapless enough to be out there in those conditions. 

But not during this weekends weather window.

We maintained a 6 hourly radio net as we’d never be sure exactly where the other boat might end up, but with same size boats and going same way we really seemed like we were attached by some sort of invisible thread and rarely far from each other.

Both boats were continually visited by small dolphins during that Saturday and into the night, dashing back and forth between the two boats.  These are the little dolphins who pop out of the ocean so fast you’d think some big hand was squeezing them out.  Like a slippery bar of soap popped out from under the bath water- and landing with a similar big splash.

This picture was taken by Nikki from Sunboy.

At night you only know they've arrived when they make you jump by giving a big whoosh of breath as they take off.  Usually happens right alongside the cockpit when you least expect it.  

With lots of phosphorent jellies glowing in the water last night, the Dolphins left trails like missiles as they zoomed around us.  All pretty special as it was happening under a jet black sky studded with stars so low you think you could grab them and bring a handful on board.

Oh.  Did I mention it has been SUPER SUNNY and HOT on Saturday?  And it is looking good for today as well?  I hear it is raining in the UK. 

9.00 Update.  Got down our course to 90 miles off Gijon and had a team chat on the radio net.  Everyone is feeling chipper after a solid night sleep so we’ve decided to continue on for another night and make Coruna rather than Gijon.

Coruna is supposedly a much more interesting city than Gijon and a natural stop off for most Atlantic cruisers.  It also places us closer to Cape Finisterre maybe one day earlier than planned, as Coruna is 200 miles westward from our turning point. 

We’ll again plan to arrive during daylight hours Monday and it will give us the chance explore a city they all say should not be missed. 

There are anchorages in the Ria da Coruna but we’re told we should not miss parking in one of their three marinas and exploring the old town.

Nicely, soon after we changed course the wind filled to 8/9 knots from the SE, allowing us to hoist our 200% Code 0 Headsail and turn OFF the engine.  Now have been sliding along at 6/7 knots since dawn sunbathing.  Lovely. 

Did I tell you the deck is almost too warm to walk on?  No?  Really, it is.  Shirt off.  Shoulders burny burny.  Lovely.

Sunboy is currently a mile or so ahead of us.  She is continuing to motor-sail as she’s not got any big headsails.   If we lag behind daylight hours we’ll soon catch up evening time when the wind normally drops and we too will restart our motor.  Another calm (but engine running) night at sea beckons.

JOHN

PS  Got in at 3pm.   Will update with photos later.  Tired as.

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