The approaches to Brindisi are laid out into traffic separation zones, and whilst it seems the local small boats ignore the chart directions, all the bigger ones seem to stick with it.  So we followed suit and spent 30 minutes navigating the zone, having to pass the harbour entrance first to get into the ‘in’ lane, and then being able to turn back towards the entrance.

Brindisi outer harbour is huge and open – maybe 2 miles square – protected by a long manmade wall to the north side, and a line of islands to the south.   Most of the big Italian / Greek ferries ply their trade from here – and it’s obvious they also handle a lot of bulk and container traffic as well as ship repairs.  A substantial facility.

As we passed through the outer harbour to an inner section, heading towards a third basin set inside the city limits.  That’s where the yacht club is located.  As we did so we saw that a marina is now fully operational on the north side of that inner harbour – a shame it was not mentioned in the pilot book, as we may well have used it.  It’s still very hot here, and if one has a choice of inner city or coastal living – the coast comes out on top!

Once into the final inner basin, maybe 3 miles in total from the harbour mouth, there’s a further narrow entry into the waters of the city, in which one finds smaller ferries, town quay, Port Police, fuel station, and a naval facility – all set in line on the southern shore. The Lega Navale Yacht Club is directly opposite the navy ships on the northern bank.

A big commando / helicopter carrier was parked up along with several patrol boats as we backed into our allotted berth on the outside club jetty.

The club although small seems very hospitable.  It’s private, but does have visitor berths, more so when club members are away having a vacation themselves. 

We found it good value at 27 euros per night.  Showers etc a bit basic, but a homely small bar, and friendly fellow sailors always keen to stop and say hello as they wandered past.

But weather in here is HOT HOT HOT.  By midday Saturday it was 38 C in the shade, and not a puff of wind reaching us to cool anything off.  And no pool.  And water too dirty to swim in.

Sue was physically wilting. So rather than move to the other marina, or stay on the boat for the night, we had a brainwave.

Packed a rucksack, taxi to the airport to hire an airconned car – and off we went driving across Italy towards it’s west coast.

The idea was as we had not been able to copy James Bond and sail our boat into Venice, then why not see if we could duplicate 007’s drive along Italy’s famous Amalfi coast?  It runs from Salerno along the mountainside and around a peninsula to Sorrento – and is only 180 miles as the crow flys.

Well we did it – and it was double that distance as the road goes – but had a great time, not least on the bumpy autostrada route over the mountains of southern Italy to get there.

We’d got about 2/3^rd of the way to the west coast and were high in those mountains when dusk fell.  Somewhere past Potenza in the ‘badland’ lookalike mountains around Monti Picentini.  Pulled off the autostrada and after an hour zipping around country lanes, finally found a hotel.

It was looking a bit tired, but so were we.  Perched on an outcrop overlooking a road construction site on one side and a cement plant on the other, meant we had to elevate our eyes to ignore the closer views – but those mountains around are stunning.

As we circled the hotel and not finding a front door, we pushed open the creaky door to a bar area and all conversation stopped as six pairs of male and one set of female eyes all swung in our direction.  All had that special Kentucky ‘mountain man’ look about them.

Not a word of English between the lot – but gestures and the few words we shared got what we wanted - a feed and a good room.  They gave us their best room, but it was as tired looking as the rest of the place.  Pretty bare, hard camping type bed, no toilet seat!  Even the aircon wall unit only just about wheezed into life to provide a trickle of chilled air. 

But hey!  Beggars / choosers etc.

The evening proved interesting.  The same guys all sitting around staring at us in the bar made the meal a speedy one – although the quality of both food and wine was excellent for just 28 euros.  In fact the hotel B&B was just 40 euros also.

We’d chosen to eat in the bar, but the bar lady had mentioned an alternative of eating upstairs where, it being Saturday, there was live music.  We declined to move, but after our meal went for wander to check it all out.

We followed the sound of music and ended up outside a big ballroom and peeked in.  All we could make out was six elderly couples goose-stepping around under florescent lights, to a series of military two steps!  Maybe we were tired, but the huge room, six individual tables for two, blaring military music, and the cropped hair men and slim and elegant, made us fear we’d stumbled across the Third Reich’s last hideaway.  The combo of hotel, room, staff, and dancers, made us slide away and double lock the bedroom door for an excellent nights sleep.

Arrived at Salerno by 1000, and found our way to the coast road.  Have to say was a great drive up this road, despite the Sunday traffic.  It winds up and down from mountain to beach, only wide enough for a single line of traffic each way, and most obviously Fangio’s descendents.  I seemed to fit in OK.

The whole coast is just so pretty, but with the crowded beaches all packed nose to tail with frying beachgoers, the generally jaded look of the area, and the rubbish strewn around, it’s clearly seen better days.  Must have been great in maybe the 50’s – but still worth a visit today.

Spent the day driving the whole length and fetched up at a modern upmarket hotel on the peninsular overlooking Sorrento.  They had rooms.  Clean modern rooms.  A pool.  Chilly aircon.  Great view from balcony.  And a toilet seat.

So there we stayed for Sunday night.  Dropped down to Sorrento for an evening wander and meal. Packed with tourists, lots of Brits, lots of street side action, and worth the visit.

We drove back Monday but it seems the whole of the Med is gripped by this heat wave – and it topped 42 degrees en-route up high in the supposedly cooler mountains!  Got back to the yacht club by 0200, and by 0300 we’d paid our bill, cast off our lines, spent 20 minutes topping up our fuel tanks, and we were off heading south to hopefully find some respite from the heat further offshore.

We decided because of the heat on land, we’d not stop between here and Sicily, and try to do the 300 mile leg in one hit.

It took us two nights at sea, and whilst not cool, we both felt sure we were better off than had we stayed on shore.  Sadly did not get much useful wind en-route.  Right down the coast towards the base of Italy it was a mixture of no wind, or blasts of red hot furnace type stuff from the west.

In fact as we ran in towards the coast at the bottom tip of Italy on our second night, we got hit with several red hot blasts of strong winds coming down the mountainsides, and could actually see the red sky reflecting forest fires burning over the other side of the mountain range.

All very spectacular at night time, but not nice for those living close to it.

On the morning of day three approaching the most southern tip of Italy, the wind did come in with a blast.  Still warm, but now overcast and sticky.  As we cleared the bottom of Italy and turned north west towards the Messina Straights it really piped in, got to 30+ knots, and sadly straight on our nose.  We had no option but to crank up the engine to max revs and butted our way up the straights towards the narrow gap at the top.

Last time we came trough here it was a flat calm, and no trace of the whirlpools and currents famed worldwide.  This time we got the lot.  Two whirlpools close to the top passage tugged at our keel as we charged through both, and it was with some relief we exited and were able to turn left towards out planned stop in Porto Rosa on Sicily’s northern coast.

We were concerned with fuel consumption, as Porto Rosa is in total 300 miles from Brindisi and that’s close to our max range using normal revs.  With the higher revs we’d been using for the past five hours, we certainly chewed through our rather limited fuel, so it was close.

Got entered Porto Rosa midday Wednesday with less than 20 litres of fuel left.   Too close for comfort really – and a salutary reminder to fill our 40 litres of spare cans every trip from now on.  It’s a facility built around channels dredged to provide a shoreside living residential area – so lots of users have their boat tied up off their back yard.  Some nice on site restaurants and shops etc.

But it seems Porto Rosa’s expensive in high season.  Cost us 120 euros for the night, and no showers let alone a chance to check out the toilet seats!  

So at that price, it’s only one night here for us, and off we’ll head for Sardinia.

Cheers

JOHN

Of course, was all absolute tosh.

What we got was stunning scenery, one of the best sailing region we’ve ever visited, shy but friendly people mostly speaking good English, great low cost wine, and never a bad meal.  And the only place we’ve paid to anchor were in National Parks.

So my recommendation, if you’re looking for a new place to go sailing in Europe, would be to sample Croatia.  From what we’ve seen in a single month, it’s got more to offer a sailor than the Caribbean, Greece or Turkey. 

We left the young guys in Dubrovnik, and sailed back up north west to the top end of Mjlet Island and its national parkland for two days of chilling prior to setting out for Italy.  Had to motor sail most of the leg as the winds were light, but we slid along over flat water enjoying the day.

We did not expect Croatia to have one last surprise in store - but it arrived late arvo as we closed the series of bays we planned to stay in.

You’ll recall my comments on how these things can creep up on you in Greece?

Well the buttock clenching surprise they gave us back in Poros was nothing compared with having not just one, but two of these thingies drop out of the sky.

They’re water bombers - used to fight forest fires by dumping seawater from the air.  We watched firstly with delight, as the two of them lumbering in from the NE at maybe only 500 feet, flew across us from starboard and disappeared over the top of the islands mountains set on our port side. 

What we did not expect, was to suddenly hear the thunder of their radial engines as they’d obviously turned, and dropping back down a cleft in the wooded mountainside, dived straight towards the water only a few hundred yards from our own course.  The two of them took slightly differing headings, so we had one coming down looking like they were landing each side of us. 

If I were in a car I’d know to pull over for a fire truck.  But what’s one supposed to do when on open water? 

We could only throttle back, unsure of their intentions, to see them both level off just above the water, then gently settle down in a wave of spray to scoop in seawater, and 10 seconds later their engine notes deepened as they struggled back up into the air once again, presumably fully laden.

As they then looped back to disappear over the island again we opened our own throttle to continue onward towards the narrow channel entry to our  bay, only to have them swoop round in front of us from behind the island, and do it all over again.  From the deck of our small yacht, it looked like a good imitation of a bombers dive run – aiming at us!

The thunder of the engines gave us enough warning to snatch up the camera and snap away as they repeated the exercise a second time.

We can only assume they were training, as there was no smoke from the island, but I did not wait to get in the way of a third go.  So we turned sharp left and closed to within 100 metres of the high wooded shore-side south of our bay entry, hoping that close to the trees, we’d be out of their way.

In the time it took for us to follow the shoreline northward and enter our bay, they performed the circuit five times.  Then presumably satisfied, gave a waggle of their wings, and flew off back north east - still only 500 feet up. 

What a blast!

Anyway.  We had a relaxing couple of days swimming, hiking and lazing in Mjlet. I a perfect way to say goodbye to Croatia.  Found we needed the enforced exercise, as our first 6 mile hikes up steep wooded pathways felt to me like 20 miles on a flat road!

On one days outing we hiked over the mountain to the hamlet of Soline, set on the ‘lakeside’.  Really was a one horse town so surprised to meet up with a Londoner who now lives there.  Here’s a shot of his yacht, parked up directly opposite his front door. 

Dave married Rosie, a local girl, when he was out here five years back as a charter skipper.  They then purchased the GibSea Yacht in the UK, and sailed it out here for private use.  He and Rosy now run a couple of eco apartments and help out mother in law who operates a very small café on Solines one and only road.  Long lazy chat of relaxed light lunch – everything from wine to salami to cheese made by mum.

So if anyone really wants an away from it all type vacation - let me know and we'l pass over their contact details. 

Finally left Mjlet with some sadness (but promises to return) midday Saturday 21^st, to overnight the 130 miles to the port of Brindisi on the Italian east coast. 

When we’ve a distance to cover, we prefer to sail at night.  No 1 – it’s cool.  Plus there is something comforting knowing you’re totally in charge of everything around you.  And the seas and the heavens usually deliver up something worth experiencing.

We had to use the engine for the early part of this leg as the winds were quite light, but with it on just 1500 revs (tick over really) and even a slight amount of wind from the side or behind, we find having the sails up also helps to create an apparent wind of up to 9+ knots, in turn helping us to achieve 6+ knots boat speed.

The latter part of the leg saw the wind lick in from the north west, and we did get five hours or so of just plain sailing. 

The Central Adriatic heading south this time seemed empty, that is until we got down off Bari – when every ferry in Italy decided to come out and rumble close in front or behind us.  Keeps you on your toes. 

The night was hot and damp.  I’d guess it did not drop below 25 degrees.  Sweat was pouring off when I started typing this, and that was at 0300 local time!  As we shouldered on through the night there was lots of radio chatter over the airwaves, with US and Italian warships checking up on just about every passing vessel, and the childlike and oft abusive responses given by some fisherman do make you shake your head.  Shame they can’t be identified.  Or maybe grow up.

Had three pods of dolphins come say hello just before sunset.  Nearly ruined Sue’s meal as they blew to let us know they were alongside, as she rushed away from the stove to join me on the bow to watch the displays.  Dolphins never cease to amaze me and always make us feel special.  A visit is treated as an omen for a good voyage.  The first two pods were big beasties with white bellies who chased along under our bow hovering inches from the boat at speed and just broaching the surface to breath.  This was not the shot – but gives you the idea.

But the last pod was two smaller dolphins, who managed to top their bigger cousins display by doing multiple jumps completely clear of the water. 

I slept from 2200 to 0100, when we swopped roles.  I spent a lot of my night shift hours also playing around further with our SSB Radio email facility – leaving the radar pinging away and just jumping up on deck each 15 minutes to check for the closer boats.

For those who don’t know, SSB Radio waves have an ability to travel further when the ozone layer is not effected by the sun.  So a daytime range of say 500 miles on one frequency increases up to 000’s at night.  Picked up and replied to a number of emails stacked and waiting for us with Sailmail (the mob who run this radio – email service) and it looks like we might be able to rendezvous with two pals yachts also currently heading for Italy from Greece.  Good news if we can all do it.

It’s now 0700 local time.  I’ve just had 3 hours kip and come up so Sue can go down.  Winds again gone soft, engines back on.  It is looking like it will be another hot day.  I’ve no sympathy for the rain in the UK at the moment – in fact love some right here right now.

Can’t yet see the Italian coast, but it’s sure to break through the haze shortly.  I estimate we’ll be off Brindizi 0930.  All the ferries have gone to bed now its daylight, the deck and cushions are beginning to dry out the heavy dew from last night.  Sliding along at 7.5 knots towards our destination across an absolutely empty and gently rolling glassy sea.  Nice one. 

Well done everybody.

JOHN

For once we managed to implement a plan without adjustment.  A record! 

The stronger winds, caused by this slow moving ridge of low pressure hanging over the top of the Adriatic, began to abate on the 12^th as we cast off to sail around the outside of Ciovo Island on the Thursday.  We aimed to berth up at the ACI Marina in Split only 15 miles south of Trogir, and there to wait Jonathan and Samantha’s arrival on the Friday.  They left the UK some weeks back, and have come around backpacking through Italy to Slovenia.

Got a berth in the ‘big boat ally’ on the outside jetty of the marina.  We were the smallest one there, but interestingly found ourselves parked alongside the Hylas 54 'Strella Encore' which was crewed last year by good mates Sylvie and Guy on the East Med Rally.  Boat empty and locked up - we guess the US owners were home.

The berth was uncomfortable with the wash from ferries in the main harbour, plus RIBS rocketing in and out of the marina entry hitting us side on.

So we only stayed the one night and then moved.  The anchorage area in the harbour only 200 metres away we overlooked seemed a much more comfortable spot.  Plus it would allow us to swim. Plus it would be free!  The marina cost per night 68 euros.

Got Jonathan on his mobile.  Seems the original train they expected was not running, so they ended up staggering off a bus after a 10 hour ride down the coast from Slovenia, looking pretty tired by 1730.

Splits a busy port but the harbour water is clean, good holding, and gives between 5 and 10 metres depth.  At anchor one is only a few minutes from the shore side walkway – and there are plenty of spots to tie up a dinghy securely.

Had a good evening first wandering the streets together, chatting and stopping for a cleansing ale of two, and got a bonus concert to end the night.  We got a take away pizza and enjoyed it with a big salad and vino in the comfort of the cockpit, whilst Robert Plant rocked away maybe 200 metres off our stern giving an open air concert.  Ringside seats. 

Must say he had a good light show, and guess from the whistles and cheers lots out this way love his music also.

Think Jon and Sam welcomed getting off the travel bandwagon, and both crashed out in their cabin just after midnight.

Split itself is a big UNESCO designated city.  The old town which touches the waterfront but sits within the wider area, is full of ancient buildings reflecting the decades of Roman, Bezantine, Greek, Turkish, Venician and finally Croatian input.  Underground cave type grottos, many picturesque alleys and half covered and atmospherically lit squares, with lots of younger people lazing around enjoying themselves.  When wandering around, we kidded ourselves about our ages and simply joined in.

Had a relatively large consumption that first night, what with catching up with the guys adventures and all that.  So all felt a bit jaded the next day as we headed off out for the islands.

Got away Saturday arvo to revisit Bobovisce on Brac to chill, sunbathe, swim and relax at anchor.  Good sail over and I think our guests enjoyed it as much as we did. Really is a pretty little place.  I mean – what bloke would not want a shed that looks like this?  And in such a location. Eh?

Moved on Sunday over to the ACI Marina on Palmezana Island opposite Hvar.  It was half empty when we arrived 1430, but soon filled up with a new group of charter boats seemingly most out of Split.  We found ourselves surrounded by three Ozzie crewed boats.  Jeeze, the young guys one side from Perth were really good fun, and the others on the inside from Victoria - absolutely obnoxious.  Super loud music, lots of f**k words, beer rolling cans in the water, and thier Croastian charter skipper forever rolling his eyes.  Can anyone tell me how does this happens?

Jon and Sam slipped over to Hvar for the night by water taxi (and luckily the noisy neighbours followed) – and we all got away next day early, heading south to Korkula.

The anchorage bay east of Korkula town we used last time was similarly empty when we arrived, but by nightfall absolutely chokker with yachts.  Ate out and had a great meal and good live duo singing.  Luckily a windless night so no dramas, despite close proximity to lots of others.  Seems July is much busier than June; goodness knows what August might be like.

Typing this as we motor onward south to Dubrovnik.  The guys wish to see it (naturally) and will from there move on into Montenegro backpacking one again.  We’ll provision in the town, sort the laundry at the marina, and then slide back 35 miles north for a few days solitary R & R on Mljet Island, before heading off for the Italian coast.

Updating this having just seen Jon and Sam off on a bus to the old town.  They've texted to say they got a super room and are all set for the rest of the trip.

It's been super having Jon and Sam with us.  Lovely polite young couple - we wish them well for the rest of thier own trip.

Catch you soon.

JOHN

We’ve been alternating these past days between sliding along in medium to light breezes, or ploughing along into or away from gusty weather, as a slow moving high pressure ridge coming across the N Adriatic from the other side of Italy has led to some variable winds over this side.  Fortunately we've not seen the gales that have lashed the western side of Italy and Corsica for the past week.

We’ve exerienced a couple of thunderstorms, albeit they seem to be  over almost as they’ve begun, but each time we get a forecast predicting one, it does make us consider aiming for a marina rather than risk sitting it out in an anchorage.  Having said this, overall the weathers been good, mostly sunny, and we’ve enjoyed the variable sailing. 

Bobovisce on Brac Island was recommended as a top favourite by fellow blogger Olive Oyle, so naturally we went to check it out.

The inlet of Uvala Bobovisce is set into the western coast of Brac Island, itself located just off Split on the mainland of the Central Adriatic.  The island and this inlet are heavily wooded, and the inlet when further in, divides into two fingers both running west to east.  The top finger has a few holiday homes set around it, and the lower finger narrows down towards an ancient hamlet set around a low stone quay packed with small fishing boats.  The hamlet has a restaurant and a small grocery store.

We anchored just off the two fingers in the wider part, and took a long line ashore to hold the boats head into the sloppy waves. 

The winds got up late arvo, so went to try the single eating establishment, and struck lucky in meeting up with two Ozzie families – one from Freo.  Had a great night, but got soaked bashing into the growing head winds on our way back to the boat.

Bouncy night, but winds eased early hours.

Can see why Olive loves the place.  Lots of charm.

A breakfast chat in a flat calm saw us decide to miss out on Split whilst going north, and cover another 35 miles to the Krka National Park.  We can visit on our way back south later.

Made it to the narrow entry around mid day, dropped the sails and motored in past its guardian castle into the narrow Kanal Sv. Ante which leads you into the river.  No option but to motor at their 5 knot speed limit as you navigate the twists and turns first past a current Naval Facility, then past some WW11 U-Boat pens carved into the cliff faces.  Few locals take motice of the speed limit - especially the power craft!

The Kanal soon opens out into the Krka River proper, which at that point turns west and widens to maybe half a mile, with the large industrial looking city of Sibernik on its northern shore.  This city apparently took a real bashing in what they call ‘The Homeland War’.  Not a lot of charm visible from the river, as a lot of it has obviously been rebuilt, but the guide books recommend a visit.

The river then zig-zags west and north for a further four miles, narrowing as it goes into some impressive gorges.  It does open up for one last time with a 1.5 mile x .5 mile wide inland sea, before closing down again for the last two miles into gorges as one gets towards the village of Skradin.  That’s as far as you can go in your own boat.

Took this shot from a brochure to give you same idea of what the gorges are like.  Apologies for the quality but big cameras gone bust so using small one.

This far inland we could feel a freshness in the air we have not had for a while.  Not cold.  Just nice.

One tends to run out of superlatives for these places in Croatia.  But Skradin is a lovely town.  Old.  Small. With lots of locals out and about enjoying themselves too.  Most park visitors come up from Sibernik by boat as day trippers, so in the evening there a relatively few tourists about.

You’ll find the pilot books say that anchoring off the town in the river is prohibited, but we saw several yachts tucked up close to the bull rushes on the opposing bank, and not getting into any trouble.  But it maybe worth noting that the ACI Marina (where we parked up) is not the only mooring facility.  There is a short area of town quay (which they’ll charge you for) but likely to be cheaper than ACI.  It cost us 67 euros per night.

Saturday we visited the park itself.  Choices to get to the entry points are fixed.  Tripper boat; bus; walk; or hire a bike.  We did the bike bit and enjoyed the exercise of cycling the 5 km along the dirt road adjacent to the river bank on some good quality mountain bikes.  Despite the freshness – the sun was hot.

As we’ve seen elsewhere here, the park was impressively well tended and clean.  We were among the first people to arrive Saturday, and wandering around you could not help by favourably compare the layout and style with some of the better American National Parks.

Forested mainly with pines, and despite the rumble of rushing water thundering in the background, we found it very peaceful.  Just by our entry gate the Skradinski ‘buk’ (waterfall) pours thousands of gallons per minute down a series of drops 150 feet to the river providing spectacular views.  There are a  series of wooden walkways which run back and forth across this falls area, and we spent all morning wandering about in the shade.

Lots of interesting smaller wildlife like bright blue dragonflies and thousands of river fish including trout in rock pools and backwaters, holding position against the current.  No sight of the scarier wildlife apparently still about in this region.  Like - who wants to meet vipers, wildcats, wolves and wild boar on a Saturday morning stroll?  Heres Sue standing on a viewing platform built for the Emperor Franz Josephs vist just before WW1.

Bailed out around midday as the crowds grew, and found a perfect river beach on the cycle back down the riverside.  In we went.  Cold or what?

Stopped over for a second night at the town / marina, and have enjoyed the wandering around so decided to head for a second National Park, this time on the uninhabited islands of the Kornati archipelago.  It's  a further 35 miles northward.

It made for a pleasant sail, first back down the Krka late morning, but as we approached one of the two high narrow bridges that span the river, we got a shock when someone jumped off.

It was just as we aligned ourselves to pass under the middle span (which only has an air clearance of 27 metres and with Swagman having a 25 metre mast we actually do need to get it right), when we  watched open mouthed as a guy jumped off the bridge in a swan dive  right in from of us! 

Fortunately for us all – he was attached by bungee cords to the bridge – but it was in a bloody inconvenient place and his timing could have been better.

We could not change direction without risking the mast, but slid past as he bounced around upside down waving to us, only 10 metres on our starboard side.  Happened too quick to even get a photo.

Once out of the river we hoisted sails and covered the sea miles northward reaching before a light SW wind, and felt happy that the boat could maintain 6+ knots for most of this journey.  

Its super sailing days like this one that dispel our thoughts of trading Swagman for a bigger boat.  We have discussed this, and Sue would love us to get an Oyster or a 53 foot Amel.  Something with a broader cruising specification.  I know sailors out there will wonder why I don’t jump at the chance, as it’s not often ones partner encourages you to buy a bigger boat. But even Sue agrees when you are sliding along overtaking everything in sight, then the advantages of the bigger but invariably slower cruiser, seem to shrink.

Fetched up for the Monday night in a deserted anchorage on the tiny islet of Svrsate Vela, right up the top of the park area.  We’d spent the last few hours gliding up inside the main park island of Kornat – a long skinny island with a surreal look.  Low barren almost lunar environment all around. 

The islet was itself tucked into a bend at the top east side of Kornat, and it has a 10 metre shallow bay on its northern end, so one's protected virtually on all sides.  We dropped the hook into very clear water and once engine was off, wondered at the stillness and quiet all around us.

The park is set off the Croatian coast between Zadar and Sibernik, and contains another 87 lunar landscape islands.  For most of the year the islands are uninhabited, but in the summer a few locals either resume residence in solar powered small holiday homes, or set up small restaurants in some of the bays.

They charge for park entry, and the stillness was broken at sunset when a rubber duck roared around a corner with two friendly young wardens on board seeking our 300 kunar park entry fee.  Seems the fee has changed only recently. 

Used to be a charge of around 90 kunars per person, but now it’s a charge per day calculated by length of boat. 

The lunar landscape was man made.  Years back the shepherds burnt off all the trees to help generate better grassland grazing for their sheep, and whilst there are few stunted trees making a slow comeback, it is mainly grassland and rock faces that cover the low rolling hillsides.  The opposite to the mountainous lushness experienced elsewhere so far.

This was the first night we’d not had any other boats anchored even close by, and as darkness fell you could believe we were the only people in the world. 

A BBQ plus skinny dip, then laying back counting the brilliantly lit stars reflected on the mirror flat surface, was a great way to end yet another cruising day.

Tuesday saw us sail around and check out some of the islands, but after a phone message and discussion, we turned round and headed back south towards Split.  We’d received a call from a pals son who is backpacking in the area with his girlfreind, to see if we could maybe link up.  They are coming by rail, so Split seemed a most suitable spot. 

That days forecast was for thunderstorms later, so also a good excuse to head for a marina!  Had a absolutely bolter of a sail across the then blowing northerly building wind find shelter on the top end of Murter Island close to the mainland.  As it happens, the harbour bay at the top end of this island is wide and shallow, so we chose to anchor as opposed to going into the Hramina Marina .  Evening fell and so did the wind, but the predicated thunderstorm arrived during the night but I was totally oblivious to it all.  Fortunately Sue woke, and got all the cockpit cushions safely below!

Slid off the Tuesday before still strong northerly winds and had with poled out genoa rocketed downwind towards Split.  Sue chose to do most of the steering and ended up having an impromptu ‘race’ with a big catamaran also legging it along at over 9 knots. 

Well, we had a race.  They probably did not even recognise the competition.

Seeing more Slovenian and Polish yachts up here than down south - but the number of charter boats is apparently increasing by 30% per annum.  Also seeing a few more mega power yachts - certainly a lot more than in Tureky or even Greece.  Trouble is, the harbour and marina infrastructure is struggling to keep up - and often marinas get full before sundown. 

Arrived late arvo off Trogir which is only 10 miles from Split, still with strong winds from the north.  Trogir is a small fortified island sitting between the bigger island of Ciovo and the mainland.  It’s only maybe half mile long and a quarter of that wide, and the channel either side is narrow. It has an ACI Marina and we were lucky enough to get one of the last berths free as many others also scurried for shelter.  Interesting parking up with 25 knot tail winds and 3 knot current wooshing through the marina berths. 

Another thunderstorm hit the town just as we were ending our evening meal – and we were at an open garden restaurant!

Ducked the puddles down cobbled lanes back to the boat through the tourist crowds. This small city is full of medieval houses, churches and alleyways.  No cars.  A Venician castle plonked on one end of the palm tree lined main waterside promenade sets off the scene.

Swagman was parked up on the outside of the marina right opposite all this – so sitting under the bimini sheltered from further rain – we had a grandstand seat of the late night action.

Here’s a shot of the waterfront taken from the top of the castle tower the following day.

And here’s Sue with Swagman in the background over in the marina opposite.

The winds still up and more thunderstorms predicted to still arrive over the next 24 hours.  So will stay here one more night before moving onto Split.  Hopefully Jonathan and his lady will arrive Friday, the bad weather system will have crossed the northern Adriatic and we can feel more sure of settled weather, and we’ll take them out for a weekends R&R on the islands.

Probably after that, we’ll continue back south to Dubrovnik, and from there plan out our crossing to Italy and all points further west towards Ibiza 1,100 miles from here.  We’ve amended our pick up point for our visiting Ozzie pal from Sicily to the Balearics so we can end up there in August, get as a result the boat slipped maybe in Denia on the Spanish mainland coast to have the work done.

That will allow us to make Gibraltar and get ready to cross to the Canaries in September before the last of the Portuguese trades.  If we leave it until October, we might need to sit around and wait for the right weather window to and avoid the southerly busters that begin to arrive in that month.

Then we can take it from there. 

Cheers

JOHN 

 With the gale warning still current for the N Adriatic, and forecasted thunderstorms and stronger winds for our central region, we decided to motor over to the small island of Palmezana 2 km directly south of Hvar, and check into the ACI Marina there for a peaceful night or two.  If we wish to revisit Hvar, they run regular water taxis from there at 50 kunar return.

The marina is a summer set up, I guess developed to handle the overspill from Hvar.  Its got one fixed jetty, and two floating pontoons and I guess a capacity of maybe 300 yachts.

A fabulous location, tucked into what was a natural harbour, surrounded by woods, with rocky areas one can swim off close by.  In fact waters so clean and clear lots chose to swim off their boats in the marina. 

The ACI mob obviously take care of this place, ensuring not just the marina but also the island walkways and waters are kept relatively spotless.  The island has shaded walkways through the trees and plenty of secluded swimming spots if you choose to go au natural.  A couple of bars and restaurants in the marina, and a couple more across in a south facing bay maybe 500 metres walk away, small but good toilets, laundry, and a mini mart complete the scene. 

The marina gets very busy and both evenings we stayed, we saw late arriving yachts being waved away.  Not sure if one can ‘reserve’ a berth but if you think you’ll arrive late and want to stop, maybe worth trying.  Tel 021 744995.

If you arrive and get stuck with no space, we saw some yachts dropping anchors almost within the harbour area, and taking long lines back onto the southern shore.  It is maybe 8 metres deep at the waters edge so one can go in backwards.

We’ve had a relaxing two days with good weather here.  It only changed late last night and we heard of some other local outcomes only this morning.

At around 2200 we were relaxing in the cockpit watching a thunderstorm arrive over the mainland.  One can see it sitting in ones cockpits from the marina.  An entertaining light show, with flashes forked and sheet lightening over the mainland mountains, and no thunder to be heard from where we were.  Accordingly, we reckoned it was all a long way away.  Seas in the marina were still as, it was balmy and humid, and most other yotties here, we were lounging around still in bathers.

The storm was the leading edge of the cold front already forecasted, arriving over the mainland from the northern Adriatic.  But it also brought some unexpected wind to Palmezana, which came upon us literally out of the blue!

We felt first a cold puff from the NE, then heard a slowly building howl through the trees, and whilst rushing forward to drop our big front cover – the wind and rain hit like a train.  We’ve got a lot of windage with tall rig and freeboard etc, and didn’t think our big front cover would help – and I’m glad we got it down.

In doing so we got soaked to the skin (well me bathers really were the only clothes we had on) but it was very chilly rain!

As we stashed the cover below and began sorting extra fenders, the gusts from the front hit us again and again.  A torrential downpour travelling at 45+ knots was lashing the marina and causing some consternation.

Lots of bashing and crashing as the strong gusts hit, with both the boats and the floating pontoons starting to heave about.  I’d suspect those yachts tucked further in towards the north-west end of the marina / bay would have been more protected than we were, but our end of the pontoon was definitely getting a bit wet. 

The wind pressure had all the yachts heeling over under bare poles, and all our bows being pressured significantly to go sideways with the wind despite the bow lines previously being tied off tightly.  We were lucky, as having the new u-beaut long gangway, we’d tied off maybe 8 foot off the pontoon.  It meant our transom never came close to touching the pontoon, but not so for most others.  The boat downwind next to us who were tied only a foot or so off, had their boat ramming the pontoon with its transom, big time. 

Fortunate or not, they did not see all this, as all the Skandiwegian crew were ashore somewhere.  But its bow was shoved maybe 45 degrees to one side, and the pressure on the rig meant it rocked around like crazy.  Bottles and wine glasses, presumably left on the cockpit table when they went ashore, were rolling about and littering her cockpit floor with broken glass.  Trouble was, she’d lurch downwind, fetch up with squeal of stretching ropes, bash and crash, and rebound upwind and into our side.

I’m afraid there was not much we could do to help her other than jam more fenders between us – and staggering about half naked in cold rain was not much fun - adjusting fenders continually to best ward off any damage from the other boat upwind as well.  But the Skandiwegians braved the twisting pontoon and pouring rain to get back on board and sort it themselves, and just about everyone on the pontoon helped each other out to try and make all the yachts more secure.

The front and its rain went through after 30 minutes, and whilst it remained gusty until dawn, it never got back up to the 40+ knots we had when it first hit.

But I did awake 0630 Thursday to a radio Mayday, and found the sun back up and winds beginning to abate.  A chill in the air for the first time since we left in April. 

It’s the first time in Europe we’ve got involved in a Mayday message – and its strange how the repetition drilled in on the SSB Radio Course proved its value. 

Seemed no-one was responding to the Mayday call so I had to complete a Mayday relay which fortunately was picked up by Spit Radio.  They then in turn took over control, and dealt with it from there. 

A 44’ Lagoon Catamaran named ‘Marete’, was sitting on the rocks of Borovac Island, less that one mile east of our marina. 

Her skipper acknowledged he was not in danger of sinking and had no injuries on board, but he said it was not only his yacht stuck there, but another catamaran also. 

Suspect they may have dragged during the night and maybe clashed with chains this morning when leaving??  Who knows.  But Split Radio co-ordinated to get a Maritime Rescue Boat from Hvar at sea inside 15 minutes, and we can only hope they saved both boats from sinking.  What a way to end a vacation, eh?  Very sad.

So drama over, and the upsides of the rain is Swagman has never looked so clean.

We’ve decided to now sail the 11 miles northward to secure an anchoring  spot at Olive Oyles favourite Croatian bay – Bobovisce - on the west end of Brac Island, and move onward to Split (supposed party place) in the next 48 hours.

Cheers

JOHN