The approaches to Brindisi are laid out into traffic separation zones, and whilst it seems the local small boats ignore the chart directions, all the bigger ones seem to stick with it.  So we followed suit and spent 30 minutes navigating the zone, having to pass the harbour entrance first to get into the ‘in’ lane, and then being able to turn back towards the entrance.

Brindisi outer harbour is huge and open – maybe 2 miles square – protected by a long manmade wall to the north side, and a line of islands to the south.   Most of the big Italian / Greek ferries ply their trade from here – and it’s obvious they also handle a lot of bulk and container traffic as well as ship repairs.  A substantial facility.

As we passed through the outer harbour to an inner section, heading towards a third basin set inside the city limits.  That’s where the yacht club is located.  As we did so we saw that a marina is now fully operational on the north side of that inner harbour – a shame it was not mentioned in the pilot book, as we may well have used it.  It’s still very hot here, and if one has a choice of inner city or coastal living – the coast comes out on top!

Once into the final inner basin, maybe 3 miles in total from the harbour mouth, there’s a further narrow entry into the waters of the city, in which one finds smaller ferries, town quay, Port Police, fuel station, and a naval facility – all set in line on the southern shore. The Lega Navale Yacht Club is directly opposite the navy ships on the northern bank.

A big commando / helicopter carrier was parked up along with several patrol boats as we backed into our allotted berth on the outside club jetty.

The club although small seems very hospitable.  It’s private, but does have visitor berths, more so when club members are away having a vacation themselves. 

We found it good value at 27 euros per night.  Showers etc a bit basic, but a homely small bar, and friendly fellow sailors always keen to stop and say hello as they wandered past.

But weather in here is HOT HOT HOT.  By midday Saturday it was 38 C in the shade, and not a puff of wind reaching us to cool anything off.  And no pool.  And water too dirty to swim in.

Sue was physically wilting. So rather than move to the other marina, or stay on the boat for the night, we had a brainwave.

Packed a rucksack, taxi to the airport to hire an airconned car – and off we went driving across Italy towards it’s west coast.

The idea was as we had not been able to copy James Bond and sail our boat into Venice, then why not see if we could duplicate 007’s drive along Italy’s famous Amalfi coast?  It runs from Salerno along the mountainside and around a peninsula to Sorrento – and is only 180 miles as the crow flys.

Well we did it – and it was double that distance as the road goes – but had a great time, not least on the bumpy autostrada route over the mountains of southern Italy to get there.

We’d got about 2/3^rd of the way to the west coast and were high in those mountains when dusk fell.  Somewhere past Potenza in the ‘badland’ lookalike mountains around Monti Picentini.  Pulled off the autostrada and after an hour zipping around country lanes, finally found a hotel.

It was looking a bit tired, but so were we.  Perched on an outcrop overlooking a road construction site on one side and a cement plant on the other, meant we had to elevate our eyes to ignore the closer views – but those mountains around are stunning.

As we circled the hotel and not finding a front door, we pushed open the creaky door to a bar area and all conversation stopped as six pairs of male and one set of female eyes all swung in our direction.  All had that special Kentucky ‘mountain man’ look about them.

Not a word of English between the lot – but gestures and the few words we shared got what we wanted - a feed and a good room.  They gave us their best room, but it was as tired looking as the rest of the place.  Pretty bare, hard camping type bed, no toilet seat!  Even the aircon wall unit only just about wheezed into life to provide a trickle of chilled air. 

But hey!  Beggars / choosers etc.

The evening proved interesting.  The same guys all sitting around staring at us in the bar made the meal a speedy one – although the quality of both food and wine was excellent for just 28 euros.  In fact the hotel B&B was just 40 euros also.

We’d chosen to eat in the bar, but the bar lady had mentioned an alternative of eating upstairs where, it being Saturday, there was live music.  We declined to move, but after our meal went for wander to check it all out.

We followed the sound of music and ended up outside a big ballroom and peeked in.  All we could make out was six elderly couples goose-stepping around under florescent lights, to a series of military two steps!  Maybe we were tired, but the huge room, six individual tables for two, blaring military music, and the cropped hair men and slim and elegant, made us fear we’d stumbled across the Third Reich’s last hideaway.  The combo of hotel, room, staff, and dancers, made us slide away and double lock the bedroom door for an excellent nights sleep.

Arrived at Salerno by 1000, and found our way to the coast road.  Have to say was a great drive up this road, despite the Sunday traffic.  It winds up and down from mountain to beach, only wide enough for a single line of traffic each way, and most obviously Fangio’s descendents.  I seemed to fit in OK.

The whole coast is just so pretty, but with the crowded beaches all packed nose to tail with frying beachgoers, the generally jaded look of the area, and the rubbish strewn around, it’s clearly seen better days.  Must have been great in maybe the 50’s – but still worth a visit today.

Spent the day driving the whole length and fetched up at a modern upmarket hotel on the peninsular overlooking Sorrento.  They had rooms.  Clean modern rooms.  A pool.  Chilly aircon.  Great view from balcony.  And a toilet seat.

So there we stayed for Sunday night.  Dropped down to Sorrento for an evening wander and meal. Packed with tourists, lots of Brits, lots of street side action, and worth the visit.

We drove back Monday but it seems the whole of the Med is gripped by this heat wave – and it topped 42 degrees en-route up high in the supposedly cooler mountains!  Got back to the yacht club by 0200, and by 0300 we’d paid our bill, cast off our lines, spent 20 minutes topping up our fuel tanks, and we were off heading south to hopefully find some respite from the heat further offshore.

We decided because of the heat on land, we’d not stop between here and Sicily, and try to do the 300 mile leg in one hit.

It took us two nights at sea, and whilst not cool, we both felt sure we were better off than had we stayed on shore.  Sadly did not get much useful wind en-route.  Right down the coast towards the base of Italy it was a mixture of no wind, or blasts of red hot furnace type stuff from the west.

In fact as we ran in towards the coast at the bottom tip of Italy on our second night, we got hit with several red hot blasts of strong winds coming down the mountainsides, and could actually see the red sky reflecting forest fires burning over the other side of the mountain range.

All very spectacular at night time, but not nice for those living close to it.

On the morning of day three approaching the most southern tip of Italy, the wind did come in with a blast.  Still warm, but now overcast and sticky.  As we cleared the bottom of Italy and turned north west towards the Messina Straights it really piped in, got to 30+ knots, and sadly straight on our nose.  We had no option but to crank up the engine to max revs and butted our way up the straights towards the narrow gap at the top.

Last time we came trough here it was a flat calm, and no trace of the whirlpools and currents famed worldwide.  This time we got the lot.  Two whirlpools close to the top passage tugged at our keel as we charged through both, and it was with some relief we exited and were able to turn left towards out planned stop in Porto Rosa on Sicily’s northern coast.

We were concerned with fuel consumption, as Porto Rosa is in total 300 miles from Brindisi and that’s close to our max range using normal revs.  With the higher revs we’d been using for the past five hours, we certainly chewed through our rather limited fuel, so it was close.

Got entered Porto Rosa midday Wednesday with less than 20 litres of fuel left.   Too close for comfort really – and a salutary reminder to fill our 40 litres of spare cans every trip from now on.  It’s a facility built around channels dredged to provide a shoreside living residential area – so lots of users have their boat tied up off their back yard.  Some nice on site restaurants and shops etc.

But it seems Porto Rosa’s expensive in high season.  Cost us 120 euros for the night, and no showers let alone a chance to check out the toilet seats!  

So at that price, it’s only one night here for us, and off we’ll head for Sardinia.

Cheers

JOHN

Of course, was all absolute tosh.

What we got was stunning scenery, one of the best sailing region we’ve ever visited, shy but friendly people mostly speaking good English, great low cost wine, and never a bad meal.  And the only place we’ve paid to anchor were in National Parks.

So my recommendation, if you’re looking for a new place to go sailing in Europe, would be to sample Croatia.  From what we’ve seen in a single month, it’s got more to offer a sailor than the Caribbean, Greece or Turkey. 

We left the young guys in Dubrovnik, and sailed back up north west to the top end of Mjlet Island and its national parkland for two days of chilling prior to setting out for Italy.  Had to motor sail most of the leg as the winds were light, but we slid along over flat water enjoying the day.

We did not expect Croatia to have one last surprise in store - but it arrived late arvo as we closed the series of bays we planned to stay in.

You’ll recall my comments on how these things can creep up on you in Greece?

Well the buttock clenching surprise they gave us back in Poros was nothing compared with having not just one, but two of these thingies drop out of the sky.

They’re water bombers - used to fight forest fires by dumping seawater from the air.  We watched firstly with delight, as the two of them lumbering in from the NE at maybe only 500 feet, flew across us from starboard and disappeared over the top of the islands mountains set on our port side. 

What we did not expect, was to suddenly hear the thunder of their radial engines as they’d obviously turned, and dropping back down a cleft in the wooded mountainside, dived straight towards the water only a few hundred yards from our own course.  The two of them took slightly differing headings, so we had one coming down looking like they were landing each side of us. 

If I were in a car I’d know to pull over for a fire truck.  But what’s one supposed to do when on open water? 

We could only throttle back, unsure of their intentions, to see them both level off just above the water, then gently settle down in a wave of spray to scoop in seawater, and 10 seconds later their engine notes deepened as they struggled back up into the air once again, presumably fully laden.

As they then looped back to disappear over the island again we opened our own throttle to continue onward towards the narrow channel entry to our  bay, only to have them swoop round in front of us from behind the island, and do it all over again.  From the deck of our small yacht, it looked like a good imitation of a bombers dive run – aiming at us!

The thunder of the engines gave us enough warning to snatch up the camera and snap away as they repeated the exercise a second time.

We can only assume they were training, as there was no smoke from the island, but I did not wait to get in the way of a third go.  So we turned sharp left and closed to within 100 metres of the high wooded shore-side south of our bay entry, hoping that close to the trees, we’d be out of their way.

In the time it took for us to follow the shoreline northward and enter our bay, they performed the circuit five times.  Then presumably satisfied, gave a waggle of their wings, and flew off back north east - still only 500 feet up. 

What a blast!

Anyway.  We had a relaxing couple of days swimming, hiking and lazing in Mjlet. I a perfect way to say goodbye to Croatia.  Found we needed the enforced exercise, as our first 6 mile hikes up steep wooded pathways felt to me like 20 miles on a flat road!

On one days outing we hiked over the mountain to the hamlet of Soline, set on the ‘lakeside’.  Really was a one horse town so surprised to meet up with a Londoner who now lives there.  Here’s a shot of his yacht, parked up directly opposite his front door. 

Dave married Rosie, a local girl, when he was out here five years back as a charter skipper.  They then purchased the GibSea Yacht in the UK, and sailed it out here for private use.  He and Rosy now run a couple of eco apartments and help out mother in law who operates a very small café on Solines one and only road.  Long lazy chat of relaxed light lunch – everything from wine to salami to cheese made by mum.

So if anyone really wants an away from it all type vacation - let me know and we'l pass over their contact details. 

Finally left Mjlet with some sadness (but promises to return) midday Saturday 21^st, to overnight the 130 miles to the port of Brindisi on the Italian east coast. 

When we’ve a distance to cover, we prefer to sail at night.  No 1 – it’s cool.  Plus there is something comforting knowing you’re totally in charge of everything around you.  And the seas and the heavens usually deliver up something worth experiencing.

We had to use the engine for the early part of this leg as the winds were quite light, but with it on just 1500 revs (tick over really) and even a slight amount of wind from the side or behind, we find having the sails up also helps to create an apparent wind of up to 9+ knots, in turn helping us to achieve 6+ knots boat speed.

The latter part of the leg saw the wind lick in from the north west, and we did get five hours or so of just plain sailing. 

The Central Adriatic heading south this time seemed empty, that is until we got down off Bari – when every ferry in Italy decided to come out and rumble close in front or behind us.  Keeps you on your toes. 

The night was hot and damp.  I’d guess it did not drop below 25 degrees.  Sweat was pouring off when I started typing this, and that was at 0300 local time!  As we shouldered on through the night there was lots of radio chatter over the airwaves, with US and Italian warships checking up on just about every passing vessel, and the childlike and oft abusive responses given by some fisherman do make you shake your head.  Shame they can’t be identified.  Or maybe grow up.

Had three pods of dolphins come say hello just before sunset.  Nearly ruined Sue’s meal as they blew to let us know they were alongside, as she rushed away from the stove to join me on the bow to watch the displays.  Dolphins never cease to amaze me and always make us feel special.  A visit is treated as an omen for a good voyage.  The first two pods were big beasties with white bellies who chased along under our bow hovering inches from the boat at speed and just broaching the surface to breath.  This was not the shot – but gives you the idea.

But the last pod was two smaller dolphins, who managed to top their bigger cousins display by doing multiple jumps completely clear of the water. 

I slept from 2200 to 0100, when we swopped roles.  I spent a lot of my night shift hours also playing around further with our SSB Radio email facility – leaving the radar pinging away and just jumping up on deck each 15 minutes to check for the closer boats.

For those who don’t know, SSB Radio waves have an ability to travel further when the ozone layer is not effected by the sun.  So a daytime range of say 500 miles on one frequency increases up to 000’s at night.  Picked up and replied to a number of emails stacked and waiting for us with Sailmail (the mob who run this radio – email service) and it looks like we might be able to rendezvous with two pals yachts also currently heading for Italy from Greece.  Good news if we can all do it.

It’s now 0700 local time.  I’ve just had 3 hours kip and come up so Sue can go down.  Winds again gone soft, engines back on.  It is looking like it will be another hot day.  I’ve no sympathy for the rain in the UK at the moment – in fact love some right here right now.

Can’t yet see the Italian coast, but it’s sure to break through the haze shortly.  I estimate we’ll be off Brindizi 0930.  All the ferries have gone to bed now its daylight, the deck and cushions are beginning to dry out the heavy dew from last night.  Sliding along at 7.5 knots towards our destination across an absolutely empty and gently rolling glassy sea.  Nice one. 

Well done everybody.

JOHN

For once we managed to implement a plan without adjustment.  A record! 

The stronger winds, caused by this slow moving ridge of low pressure hanging over the top of the Adriatic, began to abate on the 12^th as we cast off to sail around the outside of Ciovo Island on the Thursday.  We aimed to berth up at the ACI Marina in Split only 15 miles south of Trogir, and there to wait Jonathan and Samantha’s arrival on the Friday.  They left the UK some weeks back, and have come around backpacking through Italy to Slovenia.

Got a berth in the ‘big boat ally’ on the outside jetty of the marina.  We were the smallest one there, but interestingly found ourselves parked alongside the Hylas 54 'Strella Encore' which was crewed last year by good mates Sylvie and Guy on the East Med Rally.  Boat empty and locked up - we guess the US owners were home.

The berth was uncomfortable with the wash from ferries in the main harbour, plus RIBS rocketing in and out of the marina entry hitting us side on.

So we only stayed the one night and then moved.  The anchorage area in the harbour only 200 metres away we overlooked seemed a much more comfortable spot.  Plus it would allow us to swim. Plus it would be free!  The marina cost per night 68 euros.

Got Jonathan on his mobile.  Seems the original train they expected was not running, so they ended up staggering off a bus after a 10 hour ride down the coast from Slovenia, looking pretty tired by 1730.

Splits a busy port but the harbour water is clean, good holding, and gives between 5 and 10 metres depth.  At anchor one is only a few minutes from the shore side walkway – and there are plenty of spots to tie up a dinghy securely.

Had a good evening first wandering the streets together, chatting and stopping for a cleansing ale of two, and got a bonus concert to end the night.  We got a take away pizza and enjoyed it with a big salad and vino in the comfort of the cockpit, whilst Robert Plant rocked away maybe 200 metres off our stern giving an open air concert.  Ringside seats. 

Must say he had a good light show, and guess from the whistles and cheers lots out this way love his music also.

Think Jon and Sam welcomed getting off the travel bandwagon, and both crashed out in their cabin just after midnight.

Split itself is a big UNESCO designated city.  The old town which touches the waterfront but sits within the wider area, is full of ancient buildings reflecting the decades of Roman, Bezantine, Greek, Turkish, Venician and finally Croatian input.  Underground cave type grottos, many picturesque alleys and half covered and atmospherically lit squares, with lots of younger people lazing around enjoying themselves.  When wandering around, we kidded ourselves about our ages and simply joined in.

Had a relatively large consumption that first night, what with catching up with the guys adventures and all that.  So all felt a bit jaded the next day as we headed off out for the islands.

Got away Saturday arvo to revisit Bobovisce on Brac to chill, sunbathe, swim and relax at anchor.  Good sail over and I think our guests enjoyed it as much as we did. Really is a pretty little place.  I mean – what bloke would not want a shed that looks like this?  And in such a location. Eh?

Moved on Sunday over to the ACI Marina on Palmezana Island opposite Hvar.  It was half empty when we arrived 1430, but soon filled up with a new group of charter boats seemingly most out of Split.  We found ourselves surrounded by three Ozzie crewed boats.  Jeeze, the young guys one side from Perth were really good fun, and the others on the inside from Victoria - absolutely obnoxious.  Super loud music, lots of f**k words, beer rolling cans in the water, and thier Croastian charter skipper forever rolling his eyes.  Can anyone tell me how does this happens?

Jon and Sam slipped over to Hvar for the night by water taxi (and luckily the noisy neighbours followed) – and we all got away next day early, heading south to Korkula.

The anchorage bay east of Korkula town we used last time was similarly empty when we arrived, but by nightfall absolutely chokker with yachts.  Ate out and had a great meal and good live duo singing.  Luckily a windless night so no dramas, despite close proximity to lots of others.  Seems July is much busier than June; goodness knows what August might be like.

Typing this as we motor onward south to Dubrovnik.  The guys wish to see it (naturally) and will from there move on into Montenegro backpacking one again.  We’ll provision in the town, sort the laundry at the marina, and then slide back 35 miles north for a few days solitary R & R on Mljet Island, before heading off for the Italian coast.

Updating this having just seen Jon and Sam off on a bus to the old town.  They've texted to say they got a super room and are all set for the rest of the trip.

It's been super having Jon and Sam with us.  Lovely polite young couple - we wish them well for the rest of thier own trip.

Catch you soon.

JOHN