The other three yachts were late risers despite the increasing swell from the southerly wind into the bay off Pandeli, but fortunately the wind swung for a while to the south west, making all the yachts swing also, and that gave us a chance to up anchor.  We took it and got out just in time, as ten minutes later the wind piped up another notch and the size of waves began to increase.

We bashed under engine into this southern wind, heading south around the bottom of Leros to the large west facing bay named Ormos Lakki which is on the western side of the island.  It’s the biggest natural harbour in the Agean and whilst it may have provided good protection to the Italian Fleet in the second world war, it is so large it did not appear to be providing the same level of protection for yacht of our size. 

The Greek Navy still maintain a big base along its southern shore. A destroyer was tied up alongside as we headed inward towards the town of Lakki, sitting at the head of the bay.

Lakki has both a scruffy marina / boatyard complex to its south side, and two concrete quays on the northern side tucked in behind the ferry berth.  As we approached these quays a marinaro was quick to start waving us into a slot twix two other yachts, and due to the building winds, we decided to take up his invitation. 

Fendered up, we slid in backwards, sorted out the slime line to moor our bow with two heavy ropes, and were soon tied up.

Weather not brilliant.  Overcast and cloudy.  The gusty south going south westerly winds coming through at F 5/6 was causing all the yachts to be snatched back / forth / sideways due to their south easterly orientation. Sorted paperwork and fees (21 euros per night but a staggering 5 euros per hour for wi-fi), and went for a walkabout in the town.

It might have been the weather, which by now included rain, but we both felt Lakki to be a sad and soulful place. 

Wide boulevards and big art deco buildings left over from the Italian occupation, and mostly in disrepair. But some of these left overs, like a wonderful avenue of tall eucalyptus trees, were still beautiful.  Seems after the war and the deprivations they suffered, many of the local inhabitants used the opportunity to emigrate to Canada, USA and Australia.  The post war authorities decided to use the deserted town and base a lot of Greek metal health institutions here.  Only a few still operate.  Apparently there was a big scandal due to generally poor treatment which came to the forefront in the 70’s, leading to many of these places shutting down.  But you can almost feel the pain of this place as we wandered the almost deserted streets, leaning against the wet wind and splashing in puddles as we went.

The winds had increased by late afternoon, so we ate on board and resorted to playing some DVDs on the computer.  We sat out a late night thunderstorm, and planned what tomorrow might bring.  The original idea of staying longer on this island and hiring a car / scooter was binned.  With solid southerlies still forecast for tomorrows Tuesday, and westerlies forecast for Wednesday, we’ve decided to leave early.  If we first use the southerlies to reach further westward to the Cycladean island of Amorgos, we could then use the westerlies to sail down to Santorini.

Awoke with the southerlies still in, but the rain and clouds all gone.  Got away by 0830 and were soon bolting along under full sail due west over the open and empty seas.  The 50 or so miles to Amogos went by quickly.  Boat surging along at around 7.5 knots with me hand steering most of the time, and Sue using the chance to trial cooking some bread down below.

Baking smelt great.  But not a success. We’re blaming it on the little oven. The sad little lump of almost raw dough was duly buried at sea about half way over.  It went with a heavy splash - not sure what the fishes will make of it.

Passed close by two small islands of Levitha and then Kinaros both standing stark and rocky from the sea.  The first has two families only as residents – the second only one fisherman.  Must be a lonely existence.

(shot of Kinaros)

By 1300 the imposing cliffs and what looked like a smoke stack of clouds pouring over Amorgos began to fill the horizon.  The cliffs at this NE end stand 300 metres high and drop off sheer to the sea.  The wind, now veering south west, pushes warm moist air onto the lower west side of the island, and as it is forced upward across the mountain it cools, condenses, and pours off the NE end just like smoke.

Two more hours along the top coast of Amorgos to finally turn back south east into the relative shelter of Ormos Katapola and the main town of Katapola itself.  It does have a town quay but backed by bars and restaurants, so we elected to stop at anchor in the bay.  Settled down closer to the small hamlet of Xilokeratidi (yes – you try saying it) in 8 metres of water.  Bit bumpy due to winds into the bay, but good holding.

Amorgos is the most eastern of the Cyclades apart from those two small islands we passed getting here.  Pretty mountainous throughout, highest being 821 metres.  Cliffs are as you’d expect, spectacular. They used this location for the filming of ‘The Big Blue’ and the name and its derivations has been adopted by several local establishments.  It’s way off the tourist trail but due to the film now attracts back packers and lots of small bars and pensions have cropped up to cater to that trade.  The town quay of Katapola fair bustles with small shops and bars, only just 10 metres across from small ferry boats loading and unloading, the expected fishing boats, and the few visiting yachts.

Pretty little port. 

We ate ashore but patronised a restaurant in Xilokeratide overlooking Swagman as she sat at anchor (32 euros incl wine).  Managed to secure the recipe for their eggplant and red pepper mezze (to die for), sunk a last glass or two of red whilst Filippa Giordano give us a good basting in the cockpit, and crashed out at 2230.

Cheers

JOHN and SUE

Got a bit too much sun yesterday, covering the 35 miles from Kos to the more northerly island of Leros in the Dodecanese group.

We’d decided to get a far north as possible in this island group – whilst we can.  Normally at this time of year you get strong north westerly Meltemi winds during daylight hours but we’ve not seen one for over a week.  As Santorini in the adjacent Cyclades group of islands (where we pick up Jude and Viv in a weeks time) but westward, if we can get some northing whilst the winds are light, the logic is when the Meltemi returns we can use that to slide back down westward towards Santorini.

Anyway, they’ve been forecasting southerlies for nearly a week now which would make getting north even better, but it’s tended to be light north east or north west most days. 

Had a boozy time last night on an adjacent boat – Meg – who had pulled in whilst we were away in Rhodes.  Americans Sue and Bob who we’d met last year on the EMYR and again two weeks back in Marmaris, were on top form. 

So we crept out of Kos over flat turquoise seas, with virtually no wind and under brilliant sun, around 1030.  Topped up with fuel, and started motoring north.

Just cleared the northern tip of Kos when the wind piped in but this time from the west, and we spent the rest of the day sailing to reach Leros around  1500. 

It really was one of those day sails you’ll remember for some time.  Sun high in the sky.  Swagman shouldering along under full sail.  Waves smashed over the foredeck, and a big white wake streaming out behind.  The wind got a solid 15/18 knots and Swagman leant over and powered along.  Pretty islands all around, just great.

We took turns at the helm and on sail trim to keep Swagman on her feet and moving at max speeds.  Kept her around high 7’s to low 8’s with the wind maybe 40 degrees apparent off the nose.  Even dropped the bimini as (a) it was too chilly in the shade with that force of the breeze and (b) we felt its windage was slowing us down!

South of Leros is the smaller mountainous island of Kalimnos rising stark from the Agean.  As we closed its eastern coastline and fell into it’s wind shadow, we dropped down to around 1.5 knots as the seas went all glassy.  Found it additional fun (well for me at least) as we glided between the patches of light breeze that dimpled the surface, and even Sue did not want to turn on the engine.

Silly what gives you pleasure, eh? 

I find when I’m sailing in near zero winds, trimming and helming oh so lightly to slide over one glassy area to get over to the next patch of breeze, that I get a real rush when we make it all happen.  Must be the complimentary  feeling (to charging along maxed out in a stiff breeze), but I love it when you go from drifting with nil noise, to hear that chuckle of water under the bow as the boat rockets up to a blistering 2.5 knots! 

By 1400 we’d cleared the top of Kalimnos, again picked up the strong westerly breeze funnelling twix the two islands, and finished off the run into Pandeli again at max speed.  Pandeli is a south facing village on the eastern coast of Leros, about half way up.

Leros is less harsh than its smaller sister island Kalimnos.  The hills seem more rounded and the countryside appears wooded and green.  Pandeli is a small fishing village with a tiny one wall harbour.  Too small for us as it was packed with villagers fishing boats, and the only space for visitors taken up by a raft of three charter yachts.  We anchored just off the harbour mouth, only 50 metres off the beach, in 8 metres of water. 

Good holding on a sand bottom, with the close shoreline / village headland protecting us from the westerly winds. 

The setting here is OK.  Not flash, in fact a regular working village not reliant yet on tourism.  A few houses and tavernas around the small beach and harbour, and then the village proper staggered up the hill behind towards the mandatory castle.  Nice.

Oleander, bourgainvillea and tamarisk grow profusely in the village, and even the piles of fishing nets being repaired on the small harbour wall were a jumble of blues, reds and yellows.  Most of the local fishing boats were equally colourful.

Towards dusk we were joined in our small anchorage by three other yachts – one of which we already knew.  Pom Graham and his Swedish girlfriend Karen met a year back on this very island, and she joined him as crew for the EMYR 07.  They’d spent the winter in Turkey and had been hanging out to revisit Leros and the nightclub / bar where they first met.

So yet again, a nice evening ashore with company, sharing their anniversary. 

Zorbas Tavern was just one of the shoreside tavernas, and they served us a good meal at good value.  Twenty seven euros including beer & wine, and only 50 metres from the back of our boat.

They took us for a nightcap to their meeting spot - Savannahs - just along the beach.  It is run by a couple of English guys who have only just opened for this summers season. Reunion drinks all round.

Typing this the morning after.  Woke at 0600 with the boat hobby horsing on small seas.  You’ll not believe it by that forecasted southerly has finally arrived and sods law, we find ourselves in a bay totally exposed to winds from that direction!

Once the other yachts clear out (just so they don’t foul our anchor chain), we’ll also move onward.  Probably only around to the western side of Leros and its big natural harbour of Lakki.  There shelter is assured even if this southerly builds (and it feels like it might).  We aim to spend at least a day exploring ashore before moving off westward towards Santorini and catching up with our UK mates.

Cheers

JOHN and SUE