8th - 10th April - Messina to Greece part II

Posted at 5:12 AM, Monday, April 10, 2006

The breeze filled in to 30 knots over our stern as we ran away before it down to the bottom of the Straights and into the Ionian Sea.  There was only one other yacht out sailing and he was headed in the same direction - so it kind of turned into a race for us trimming and surfing to get maximum speeds.  Left him miles behind. With full main and jib we clocked 10 knots at our fastest, and shot out past the horn of Italy to round the corner and turn onto our westerly course in brilliant sunshine.

Over the next few hours that stiff breeze first eased, and then died to nothing around 1900.  The engine running at 2200 revs then gave us 6.8 knots as we headed on our course of 74 degrees along the base of Italy, stuffing our faces with pasta and salad at the cokpit table with the autohelm doing all the work.

By 2100 we were passing Cape Sperlivanto and its lighthouse (the most southerly in Italy) and began to leave this lovely country behind. 

We swopped over the Italian Pilot Book for our Greek one, exchanged the courtesy flags flying at the spreaders, and fell into our 3 hour watch system for our first night on this crossing to another new country.

Once clear of the coast all other ships seemed to disappear, except for the one yacht we 'raced' down the Straights and could still see behind us.  At this sailing angle its maintaining its speed, but is not gaining on us. 

At 2330 we picked up some small lights to the north, and it emerged into a large warship plus it’s following supply ship ghosting down the east coast of Italy.  They slid past a mile in front of our bow, and turned to pass on a reciprocal course to our own.  We could then more easily make out its black outline against the dark blue night sky - and it did look sinister.  Reminded me of a predatory shark – no noise - no nnothing.  Altogether, something with too much power – and searching for someone to use the power on!  Suspect possibly US - but don't know. 

That sighting (apart from the still following yacht which stayed a a small set of nav lights far behind) are all the vessels that came near that night.

At 0600 on Sunday the sky in front began to lighten in advance of the sun arriving over the horizon 30 minutes later.  We lost sight of the other yachts navigation lights in this early dawn.  The first Greek islands are now barely 140 miles ahead – and we are slowly chewing up the miles – so are considering some other options on where to actually clear customs etc – a requirement still in Greece despite being EU members.

The original plan was to skip twix the Islands of Cephalonia and N.Zakintos to arrive at the major city of Patras on the mainland.  We’d hoped to arrive there late Monday and then move on to transit the Corinth Canal 100 miles further on, sometime Tuesday daytime. 

But the pilot book (which we've just read) says that the canal, whilst being an engineering wonder and not to be missed, apparently closes each Tuesday for dredging and maintenance! 

So the discussed alternative is for us to stop into Cephalonia and clear  customs there - at the very small island port of Argostoli.  Sounds like a excellent new plan to me - as Captain Corellis’ is a firm favourite and would be good to step onto the island.

It’s now 1400 Sunday.  Very hot outside but still not enough wind to sail.  We are sliding over a completely flat and otherwise empty Ionian Sea at 7 knots.  Had a few dolphins come to say hello – plus one little land bird and a butterfly – but none came on board.  With Cephalonia now 100 miles ahead, and no sign of wind to speed things along, its looking like another night at sea and an ETA of 0500 tomorrow (Monday).

It’s now 2230 Sunday – we're still under motor - but we’ve picked up two pairs of small birds as stowaways in the late afternoon.  All were exhausted and not surprising, as the North African coast from which they migrate is 350 miles south of us.

They all appreciated a feed and a drink.  Incredible how wild birds can adjust to moving closely with humans, as well as other species, when they have no option.

None of us know enough about bird species.  There are two little finch types with brown backs and wings but yellow chests.  Here's a picture - anyone know what they are?

The two little swallow tailed types had black wings, brown area over eyes, and dark blue heads.  If anyone can identify them - then please help us out. 

The guys have gone all soppy over them, and crew paranoia sets in whenever one flies off around the yacht, almost half expecting them to dive into the ocean and drown.

The finches spent all afternoon exploring the whole boat on foot, inside and out, and as night began to fall all four began to check out differing spots to use as the night nesting spot.  They are so ‘tame’ that they even tried some warm human laps! Eventually the swallow tails both wormed their way into one of the open fronted rope lockers in the cockpit - and appear happy to be snuggled down in there despite sharing it with Sues shoes and socks.  Obviously no sense of smell.

The finches appeared fussier.  At first they kept swopping - unable to  decide between diving down into the forward anchor locker - or a particular warm spot under a winch pocket in the cockpit.  They kept testing both locations together and after an obvious disagreement, one went to each spot as the sun fell. 

Guess they’ll make it up in the morning.

Our revised timing should see us arrive at Cephalonia at 0500 – 6 hours further motoring.  We hope then our 4 overnight feathered guests can be encouraged to depart to either find a more secure nest ashore - or continue their migratory journey northward.

And the boys can clean up all the bird ****e.

We arrived off the island at 0415.  Low hills, very pretty.  We felt our way into the inlet to find a spot between two large ferries on the customs jetty to tie up at 0530.  The Greek officials gave us a warm welcome and told us to sleep first – sort papers later.

I am about to take that advice.

Cheers

John