7th April 2006 - Palermo to Messina (Sicily)
Posted at 1:01 PM, Friday, April 7, 2006
Palermo (Sicily) to Marina di Porto Rosa (Sicily also)
This is essentially a day sail along the northern coast of Sicily. I say sail, but as we started from Palermo there was zero wind and a glass like sea. The sun was up again and despite a slight chill (after all it is still only April) – we are all comfortable in T shirts / shorts. We got away only after the marina office opened to take our berthing fee – they said 0900 – but we seemed unable to get sorted and paid until 1100!
Chugged out of the harbour under engine and across Palermo Bay with the rugged terrain of northern Sicily rolling past in the heat haze on our starboard side. Stunning mountain ranges. Very picturesque. I’m not sure any photo we’d take could do it justice.
We are aiming to make Porto Rosa along the coast towards Messina. In total about 90 miles. Unless we get strong breezes later in the day then at our current 7 knots speed this will take us some 12 hours – so maybe in there by midnight.
Our course will take us close to the most southern of the Aeolian Islands which is aptly named Vulcano. These islands are all volcanic and include Stromboli which is known as the ‘oldest lighthouse in the Med’. It was spluttering fire and brimstone back in Homers days and is still doing it today. It’s one of those that does not have big explosions – just gently spewing lava from the top 24/7 even today. Unfortunately it is the most northerly of the Aeolian Islands so we may just pick up the glow from the volcano fire on the northern horizon – but even seeing that will be an experience.
The pilot book says Porto Rosa is a modern apartment development set into the coast about 30 miles before we’d reach the Messina Straights. They’ve cut a marina and canals in for apartment residents and guests to moor. Full of bars / shops etc. We are only stopping there to re-fuel and so we can also transit the Massina Straights during daylight, and we doubt if anyone will be about in the marina offices when we arrive.
The straights which we expect to transit on Saturday are only 1.5 miles at the narrowest point with Sicily to our right, and mainland Italy to our left as we turn south and pass between them. With current and tidal influences between the two seas above and below the straights, it still experience large whirlpools, tidal overfalls, plus downdrafts of high winds from tall cliffs either side. The pilot book says all this could be dangerous to smaller boats. I know we’ll not have any issues but its one place I’ve always wished to see, hence the daylight transit.
We’ll not be stopping again after Porto Rosa until we enter ito Greece – our longest single leg of the delivery trip at 300+ miles. So tomorrow morning we’ll not only have to refuel but also get hold of additional provisions before we depart. Top of the list is a Birthday cake for Sue and of course – more vino. We’re down to our last case of Spanish wine (where does it go?) and suspect we’ll get better value / quality in Italy than Greece /Turkey etc. If anyone knows of can give advice on this – please do so.
It’s Sues birthday on Sunday but we will be slap bang in the middle of the Ionian Sea by then and unreachable by phone. So if anyone were to be considering a call to my mobile to give any good wishes to Sue directly – Saturday midday as we transit Messina Straights could be an ideal time.
I’m typing this at 1100 on passage from Palermo – will update and upload once I get a connection.
We are now at 1400 and 25 miles down our track. A light north-west breeze has allowed us to turn off the engine and again set the new code 0 headsail. We are getting 7 knots boat speed in 9.5 knots of breeze – awesome. Sun’s still up and HOT – time for a cold beer and late lunch under sail – so bye for now.
We arrived at Porto Rosa at 2200. Whilst it looks like a small facility as one approaches - and in that approach the depth quickly fell away as we closed the entry on the shoreline - so as to be only 5 metres of water. Would not wish to try this entry in any strong following winds as even in the 15 knots we had - we had white water across the entry. Once inside it all calms down and opens up. It's one of those Amercian style canal resorts with lots of little waterways prettied up with lots of palm trees, and the canals all dredged to 3 metres. Literally hundreds of yachts are parked off the back gardens of villas, bars , restaurants and low rise apartments. Their service was great - marinaros still awake to guide us to a berth despite the late hour (one even ran us over to one restaurant across a canal in his dinghy). 'La Cantina' retaurant was still open and happy to cook us Pizzas at 2300. Wandered back to boat by midnight and crashed.
Will sort out bill when office opens at 0900 - refuel - then onward to the head of Massina Straights 25 miles further west.
Oh. Found another four cartons of Spanish wine I forgot we stored away! Bonus.
Cheers
JOHN
