Rias Baixas (Spain) and Leixoes (Portugal) 2nd to 4th August
Posted at 9:55 AM, Thursday, August 6, 2009
We sailed down the coast Sunday after leaving Portosin. The weather was warm but the wind spasmodic. The seas were glassy and flat, the sun warm, so we simply sailed when the breeze was there, and motored when it dropped.
We took a pretty route staying initially close inshore and then threading our way inside the islands that lay across the entrances of the Rias Baixos – the three big indents into the Atlantic coastline.
The islands of Salvora, Ons and Onza are all national reserves and unspoilt. They have a few small cafes and a couple of state run camping grounds, but to even visit by boat one requires advance permission and a piece of paper saying so. It is obvious lots of Spanish boats go visit on a day sail - and I'm sure most of those do not comply - but I did not want to risk it ourselves so continued sailing along.
Each island protects it's relative ria from heavy ocean swells and invariably on the inside of each are sheltered bays usually with a white sandy beach. Just like the many others that dot the north and south shores of each ria. All round it's been a very pretty area - lots of small villages with off-lying anchorages or small marinas to choose from. And great music.
The wind did settle finally to a steady breeze so our last 20 miles down across the face of the Ria Vigo was a pretty relaxed sail. We slipped through the narrow gap twix the reef that protects Bayonas northern approaches and the adjacent headland to drop sails right off the town itself.
Here is one picture nicked from the web looking back north from Bayonas castle so you can see where we came in - plus another of the castle walls.
We’ve visited Bayona twice before and each time got lost in it’s charm. It is a busy little town lying along the bay side and protected by a big 16th centry castle - now a luxury Parador Hotel.
They say this region has the highest housing costs anywhere in Spain (which I do find hard to believe) but but it’s small old town high street is packed with small pumpy bars that suit us well, and it has a choice of clean beaches to swim from.
The place seems used to visiting cruisers but it is still very 'Spanish'. Nowhere near as much English spoken as you might find on the east (Med) coast.
Here is the club house and one of its pontoons nestled below the castle.
I guess if one has to get stuck anywhere on this coast waiting for a spare part, then Bayona would have been our choice. The weather stayed good, sunny and hot, good for walking and sparkling beach visits. Luckily, the local festival which Bayona run on the Monday did not cover Vigo, so we got our part ordered OK plus bonus big fireworks at midnight!
Linked up with another British yacht named Low Flyer of Aberdeen who were out at anchor. No, not Scottish - but surprisingly enoough local to us in the UK. The guys were from Christchurch which is only 10 miles from our UK home location.
Andy and Michelle Norman are just beginning a world cruise and for this leg were accompanied by their daughter Sam. It did not take long before we were into ‘who they knew’ and ‘who we knew’ back in the UK and there were certainly lots of overlaps. (Hello Brian
)
Shared more than a few beers aboard and then later ashore, and ended up having a tapas type feast at a highly recommended Restaurant Novas Aires right up the top of the old town main lane. A good Rioja, Calamari Romana, Chirizo, Goats cheese grilled over potatoes (not to missed), Gambas and home made Croquettes came to less than 20 euros a head. Superb value.
Our new cable arrived Monday 1030 and whilst Sue went shopping I put the boat back together, and by 1200 it was all working OK and we quickly sorted our bill with the club and were butting our way out of the bay, hoisting sails into a fresh westerly wind.
We scooted off at a pace once we cleared the off lyting reefs and rocks, and turned around the headland in our journey south towards the Portuguese border some 20 miles south.
We waved our goodbyes to the islands and rias of Spain, regretting we’d not had more time and maybe better weather to enjoy them mnore than we had. But never the less - well worth the visit.
Excellent rocketing down along the coast to the border with Portugal - all smooth seas and sunshine. Changed our courtesy flags as we slid past the Ria Mino marking the border, sailing only a mile or so offshore. Lots of pots about as the waters were only 20 - 30 metres deep. Not sure if they were Spanish or Portuguese. Do know we got fed up with them.
A very relaxed arvo as we moved slightly further offshore to avoid the pots. Swagman on autopilot. Both of us sunbathing and checking out marine life. Someone gave me a reference book on birds so enjoyed identifying the various gulls, shearwaters and terns that fly around this coastline.
The wind died away around 4 pm and by 5 pm we were drifting into patches of sea mist which soon enveloped us in a cold and damp real pea souper. Snugs and engine on, and automatic foghorn tooting away each 2 minutes we crept southward with radar pinging.
By the time we passed the port of Pavoa (somwhere off to our right where we could have stopped but decided not to) the visibility was down to maybe 20 metres. Our collective heads were swivelling like meercats at every other noise out there. It all gets amplified in the fog. Found out our foghorn (attached to our radio) can also be used as a directional hearing device. Very useful I am sure if we ever turned into spies.
Fortunately it seemed there was not too much out there to hear, let alone bump into. Looking back after we realised we managed in our ignorance to sail right over a recently installed underwater wave generator (whoops), but we did manage to identify on the radar two fast fishing boats just off the entrance to Leixoes harbour and piloted ourselves right between the two, and then finally avoided a tanker and it’s pilot boat looming out of the fog exiting the harbour just as we were about to go in. Very hectic last five minutes until finally coasting over to the preferred anchoring area just outside the small marina, and dropping our hook alongside another four yachts.
By the way, Leixoes is pronounced 'leeshonge'.
The harbour was a tad spooky what with the fog and all. The lamps from the shoreand from the big harbour walls were simply orange glowing balls. All the other yachts looked deserted. Even the marina and adjacent club house looked closed down.
So we sorted ourselves properly with anchor balls and illuminating anchor lamps, baked up a pizza, washed it down with our last bottle of reasonable French wine, and then got invited over to Low Flyer to share a nightcap and chat.
Today we need to clear in with Portuguese authorities before either deciding to stay and explore nearby Porto, or moving on south.
Cheers
JOHN and SUE