25th July 2005 - Soller

Posted at 6:59 AM, Tuesday, July 26, 2005

25^th July 2005 – Soller

We’ve spent the last few days again cruising the north-west coast of Mallorca with Pattie and Paul as guests.  The weathers remained fine – averaging 30 degrees and no cloud cover at all until today.  The wind has remained predominantly from the south – with only a light sea breeze midday, and light offshore breeze overnight.

Soller’s nice.  It is a big natural harbour in the high cliff face of NW Mallorca with a sandy / weedy bottom.  It’s entrance - much narrower than the bay behind – faces north-west.  The port of Soller is tucked into the top north-west corner of the bay behind an almost abandoned Spanish Naval Base - and its marina is currently full of local small boats.  It is possibly for a few visitors to moor up – one pontoon which will take possibly 10 yachts runs out from the north west opposite the fuel jetty – and for bigger yachts one could moor a further 3 or 4 alongside the tourist ferries at the end of the fuel dock.  It’s a bow anchor jobbie with stern tied to the jetty.  Practically at this time of year – few yachtsmen bother.  The bay is so protected a majority anchor and use dinghies to get ashore as required.

Plenty of boat activity with yachts departing and arriving early morning and early evening – the anchorage area is quite large – there were around 40 parked up last night and room for same again.

They are working on extending the marina facility and talk is they will also take over the Naval Base area alongside.  The plan indicates shops etc to be built on the new main jetty and possibly room for a further 50 / 100 boats.  I would not go as far as saying work is progressing – they do have piles sunk and a groin already being cemented underwater – guess it might be complete in another 2 years.  Until then suggest you prepare to anchor.

The port town itself is very Spanish with few overseas holidaymakers.  It has the expected sprinkling of waterside bars and tourist shops and beaches all round the bay.  There are two small supermarkets and a great bakery operating 7 days a week only 50 metres from the dinghy landing point.  Don’t be put off by local info – we were told all was shut on Sunday and actually all were open.

Also found a nice trendy bar a street or two back from the front we’d recommend.  Café Pacific (where I sadly watched the Wallabies loose the Nelson Madela Plate to South Africa on Saturday) does good informal food and its classily good value.  Owner is a Scot named Alec.

There is also a lovely wood and iron Victorian Tram that runs every 20 minutes from Port Soller inland to the town of Soller itself.  At Eu2 per person – it’s like going back in time and well worth the expense.

The main town was established inland to help afford some protection from Moorish pirates – and it too is worth at least an afternoon visit.  A great Miro exhibition was on free show for us – and if you like old trains - you’ll also be impressed with the antique Victoria Train that runs from Soller over the mountains to Palma. 

If I were visiting here any other way than by boat – it would be a novel way to arrive on vacation.

Paul and Pattie depart this coming Wednesday and then we’ll definitely turn Swagmans nose to the south and skipping Ibiza – get to Formentera with all haste.  Today - cruising towards Palma where they will get off - we aim to stop-over again in Andraitz.

If you ever visit Soller remember that whilst the fuel jetty is pretty self evident - to get water one has to go to the fishing boat quay.  There is a line of regular dock electrical and water points along the quay edge.  If you are in and out quick it cost you nix - if you wait around as we did - a little man comes out and will charge you a fixed fee of Eu3.50 for water.

Take care all.

Cheers

JOHN