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Swagmans Sailing Blog

Swagmans Sailing Blog


Come on in and say hello via a 'comment'. We've cruised our Hanse 46' sailboat from UK to Egypt to the Caribbean mainly two handed from 2004 to 2008 and enjoyed every minute. We are back temporarily in the UK - but sunshine beckons us again for summer 2009.

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Carloforte

Posted at 6:24 AM, Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Finally turned north around the southern tip of Sardinia to bash our way north against strengthening NW headwinds, and up into the 3 mile wide channel that separates S. Pietro from Sardinia.  The waters in this channel are full of shoals, and it’s a little disconcerting when you’re still 5 miles off the port entry, to watch the bottom slide by only 4 metres below your keel.

 

We took care to line ourselves up and slide through the very shallow areas and go into the fishing boat adjacent to the main harbour, so we could get fuel from the station there.  The entry is less than 20 metres wide, and as we got close it was obvious we could not make it.  The water depth had gone down to 2.2 metres when we turned around and headed back out.  It looked even shallower inside, and we draw 2.13 metres.

 

So then heading into the main harbour we espied the new yacht marina is set into the north west side, and whilst occupied by lots of yachts we failed to raise the marineros on the VHF.   To go in backwards we really do need someone to take our lines, so we chose an empty section of pontoon on the outside, and simply moored alongside.

 

Ten minutes later up wandered a polite young guy to apologise for the complete staff being at lunch, and confirming we could stay where we were for the night.  Cost 45 euros, water and electricity included.  He also said ‘don’t worry’ about finance police, if they come around we’re to say we’ve a small engine problem (which is actually true) which should mean we could avoid the cruising tax payment.

 

First job was to organise fuel.  We emptied the 4 cans we had and used the dinghy to roar round to the fuel station in the fishing boat harbour – only to find they had sold out!  Next delivery Monday.

 

Reverting to trolly as well as dinghy, we then spent the next hour carrying 80 litres from the next closest fuel station.  Good exercise. Painful.

 

Next was to secure some cash.  But when we tried both machines in the town, neither could connect to international lines and authorise payment!

 

So it was down to shaking out every pocket and consolidating all the euro coins we had – a total just over 25 euros – and ensuring we stuck to this budget when doing our supermarket shop.

 

Got what we needed.  Even had 15 euros to spare for an evening drink in the town – and that’s when despite these annoying set backs – we realised how lucky we were to choose this place.

 

Carloforte can only be described as lovely.  A Genoese style town, with a big harbour area which looks pretty ordinary from seaward, but once ashore and into the town proper, absolutely fabulous.  Classic cobbled streets, narrow lanes, but here not filled with shops but rather locals and their homes.

 

Most visitors seem to be Italians, and they usually arrive by one of the ferries plying the short distance from here to Sardinia.

 

 

‘Whatta do youa meana, howdya knowa we hitta your jetty?’

 

Glowing yellow, big iron street lamps set of the street scenes, and it was not just the architecture, but the people themselves who really made it a great evening out.

 

Carloforte is obviously a favoured Italian and Corsican resort, but does not appear to be frequented by the chic people one might find elsewhere on the Italian coast.  I mean, lots of good looking people etc, but what impressed us most was that most were lacking the reserve oft found in Italy.  Lots of laughter, smiles, and openness.  Just regular people apparently enjoying each others company in a relaxing environment.

 

The small town square on Saturday was set up for a freebie rock band.  The seating under the huge trees was filled with all the towns old folk, and hindreds of kids were rushing about chasing each other whilst their mothers chatted away.  Most visitors, like us, either lazing in bars or simply standing to watch the show. Great atmosphere.  And fortunately cheap drinks too!

 

It’s definitely on our revisit list – and if you’re around the area would recommend you stop by also.

 

Cheers

 

JOHN

 

 

 

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