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Swagmans Sailing Blog

Swagmans Sailing Blog


Come on in and say hello via a 'comment'. We've cruised our Hanse 46' sailboat from UK to Egypt to the Caribbean mainly two handed from 2004 to 2008 and enjoyed every minute. We are back temporarily in the UK - but sunshine beckons us again for summer 2009.

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12th to 17th July 2007 – Trogir to Split and heading south.

Posted at 12:19 PM, Tuesday, July 17, 2007

For once we managed to implement a plan without adjustment.  A record! 

 

The stronger winds, caused by this slow moving ridge of low pressure hanging over the top of the Adriatic, began to abate on the 12th as we cast off to sail around the outside of Ciovo Island on the Thursday.  We aimed to berth up at the ACI Marina in Split only 15 miles south of Trogir, and there to wait Jonathan and Samantha’s arrival on the Friday.  They left the UK some weeks back, and have come around backpacking through Italy to Slovenia.

 

Got a berth in the ‘big boat ally’ on the outside jetty of the marina.  We were the smallest one there, but interestingly found ourselves parked alongside the Hylas 54 'Strella Encore' which was crewed last year by good mates Sylvie and Guy on the East Med Rally.  Boat empty and locked up - we guess the US owners were home.

 

The berth was uncomfortable with the wash from ferries in the main harbour, plus RIBS rocketing in and out of the marina entry hitting us side on.

 

 

So we only stayed the one night and then moved.  The anchorage area in the harbour only 200 metres away we overlooked seemed a much more comfortable spot.  Plus it would allow us to swim. Plus it would be free!  The marina cost per night 68 euros.

 

Got Jonathan on his mobile.  Seems the original train they expected was not running, so they ended up staggering off a bus after a 10 hour ride down the coast from Slovenia, looking pretty tired by 1730.

 

Splits a busy port but the harbour water is clean, good holding, and gives between 5 and 10 metres depth.  At anchor one is only a few minutes from the shore side walkway – and there are plenty of spots to tie up a dinghy securely.

 

 

Had a good evening first wandering the streets together, chatting and stopping for a cleansing ale of two, and got a bonus concert to end the night.  We got a take away pizza and enjoyed it with a big salad and vino in the comfort of the cockpit, whilst Robert Plant rocked away maybe 200 metres off our stern giving an open air concert.  Ringside seats. 

 

Must say he had a good light show, and guess from the whistles and cheers lots out this way love his music also.

 

Think Jon and Sam welcomed getting off the travel bandwagon, and both crashed out in their cabin just after midnight.

 

Split itself is a big UNESCO designated city.  The old town which touches the waterfront but sits within the wider area, is full of ancient buildings reflecting the decades of Roman, Bezantine, Greek, Turkish, Venician and finally Croatian input.  Underground cave type grottos, many picturesque alleys and half covered and atmospherically lit squares, with lots of younger people lazing around enjoying themselves.  When wandering around, we kidded ourselves about our ages and simply joined in.

 

 

Had a relatively large consumption that first night, what with catching up with the guys adventures and all that.  So all felt a bit jaded the next day as we headed off out for the islands.

 

Got away Saturday arvo to revisit Bobovisce on Brac to chill, sunbathe, swim and relax at anchor.  Good sail over and I think our guests enjoyed it as much as we did. Really is a pretty little place.  I mean – what bloke would not want a shed that looks like this?  And in such a location. Eh?

 

 

Moved on Sunday over to the ACI Marina on Palmezana Island opposite Hvar.  It was half empty when we arrived 1430, but soon filled up with a new group of charter boats seemingly most out of Split.  We found ourselves surrounded by three Ozzie crewed boats.  Jeeze, the young guys one side from Perth were really good fun, and the others on the inside from Victoria - absolutely obnoxious.  Super loud music, lots of f**k words, beer rolling cans in the water, and thier Croastian charter skipper forever rolling his eyes.  Can anyone tell me how does this happens?

 

Jon and Sam slipped over to Hvar for the night by water taxi (and luckily the noisy neighbours followed) – and we all got away next day early, heading south to Korkula.

 

The anchorage bay east of Korkula town we used last time was similarly empty when we arrived, but by nightfall absolutely chokker with yachts.  Ate out and had a great meal and good live duo singing.  Luckily a windless night so no dramas, despite close proximity to lots of others.  Seems July is much busier than June; goodness knows what August might be like.

 

Typing this as we motor onward south to Dubrovnik.  The guys wish to see it (naturally) and will from there move on into Montenegro backpacking one again.  We’ll provision in the town, sort the laundry at the marina, and then slide back 35 miles north for a few days solitary R & R on Mljet Island, before heading off for the Italian coast.

 

Updating this having just seen Jon and Sam off on a bus to the old town.  They've texted to say they got a super room and are all set for the rest of the trip.

 

It's been super having Jon and Sam with us.  Lovely polite young couple - we wish them well for the rest of thier own trip.

 

Catch you soon.

 

JOHN

 

 

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Your Blog

Posted by Chris at 4:06 PM, Wednesday, July 18, 2007

The wife and I are truly enjoying your entrys. Your writing style is superb and we are following your adventures. Thank you and good sailing

Sailing

Posted by Chris at 1:25 AM, Friday, July 20, 2007

Love your Blog. Keep em comming.

Thanks Chris.......and Chris

Posted by Anonymous at 1:58 AM, Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Cheers
JOHN


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