2^nd July 2007 – Dubrovnik to Mljet Island, and onward

The islands of Croatia stretch along the coast from Dubrovnik at the southern end, right up to the border with Slovenia and it’s near neighbour of Italy right at the north end of the Adriatic.

Our new locally sourced yachting pilot describes 777 anchorages and harbours, but we’ve learnt there are over 1,500 islands one could sail into or go past.  Not all are inhabitable, or even approachable due to a too greater depth of water, but most we’ve seen so far are very, very pretty.

The whole coastline, mainland and islands, seem to be heavily wooded with a range of pine trees and a mixture of bush.  But on the more mountainous parts, and there are many of those, the tree line cuts out at a certain altitude.  Above that point they appear to be barren rock.

The overall architecture is only what I could call ‘medieval’. Lots of stone built or stone clad houses and buildings.  It’s strange to see these kinds of structure which you’d expect in say Bavaria, here in hot climes where they have huge palm trees and cactus growing alongside.

(shot of coastline or island)

We read that Croatia does not have many sandy beaches.  One tends to sunbathe either on sun beds on flat rocky shelves, or on man made concrete bathing platforms.  But the waters (we’ve seen so far) are so clear, and for whatever reason seems also to be free for the floating crap seen in the adjacent countries. 

We had medium breezes from the west as we motored out of the Dubrovnik ACI Marina, down the river, and turned right under the high road bridge that spans the exit. 

As we completed the turn the first Croatian islands rolled out in front of us.

Most of the bigger islands are long and skinny, and tend to be oriented in a north west to south east manner running parallel with the coastline.  Look at a map and it looks like the islands are long jagged scores in the sea, like the swipes of a big cat.  In places there are three of four islands all alongside one another, all running parallel with the coast with channels between.  Some  wide, some so small you kind of hold your breath squeezing through.

Sailing up inside these islands towards the north is not usually easy in the summer months, as the prevailing summer winds come from the northwest.  It means they tend to funnel down the straights between the islands, growing in strength where the channels narrow, and if you are heading northward like us, usually blowing right on the nose of the boat.

Anyway, this Saturday we were lucky as they were blowing from the west / south west.  This allowed us to sail up inside the first of the islands towards our first destination of Mljet Island, and the National Park area set on its northern tip.  It’s a 35 mile run up from Dubrovnik.

Have to say we had a great sail.  Flat water, winds puffing up the gaps twix the islands, and easing as we sailed into each lee.  It all made it fun, and the boat slipped along reaching 8+ knots at times.

At the top end of Mljet Island is the Nacionalni Park Mljet (and you thought you could not translate Croatian, eh).  There are a couple of anchorages in this area and we chose one off the village of Polace, in a wide but sheltered bay on the top north east side of the island.  We’d had reports it can be gusty, but when we arrived it was pretty protected.

Maybe 20 other yachts of all sizes were already anchored or tied back to restaurant jetties, but there’s room here to maybe park 100.

The woodlands fall down to the anchorage shoreside on all sides, and the village is a one lane strip running for a few hundred metres on its western shore.  By nightfall the wind we had died away, and by moon rise we sat in a dead flat calm. 

The lights of the restaurants and few bars shore-side were eclipsed by the full moon rising over the mountains behind. How lucky we are to be able to experience all this? 

We flashed up the BBQ and cooked the last pack of New Forest Farmers Shop snaggers with roasted peppers and aubergines for our evening meal.  Say so myself, not badly cooked, and a nice end to a relaxing day.  Croatia is definitely looking pretty good.

_______

Crashed into a sleep I can’t remember, and woke to a sunny dawn and the realisation we’ve had our time all wrong since arriving.  Both Turkey and Greece are 2 hours ahead of the UK, and we assumed Croatia was likewise.  We’d been wondering in Dubrovnik why it was so warm at 9 pm.  Dummies.

It was of course really 8 pm. And we’d not known.

Burbled ashore in the dinghy early and purchased two tickets (90 kunars each) to enter the National Park forested area, and chose to hike over the mountains to the other side rather than wait for a bus.

Hot as even in the shaded forest, but beaut.  Lot’s of butterflies and even some incredible black bees about same size as a sparrow.

Windy trails through forests to a series of what they call ‘lakes’.  Even took a wrong turn and laboured another 2 km to the summit of the highest mountain with super views, only to have to back track to get down to the waters edge.

By the time we did arrive at the jetty to catch a small ferry boat over to an island monastery (included in entry fee), we both felt absolutely knackered.  The old ankle injury was really throbbing, and my sweat glands working overtime.

The islands is a popular tourist spot, which has a few bars as well as the Church. Wished we’d also bought our bathers – most others had and were quickly diving in. 

The ‘lakes’ are actually sea water, and it all looked so inviting that we almost threw ourselves in fully clothed.  Was only thought of the hike back with wet dacks that stopped us.

Major case of leg throb by the time we got to the anchorage, but well worthwhile.

Then spend a very relaxing evening with Brad and Pam off Grey Dawn, Ozzies from Noosa who invited us over for a drink.  They came via Red Sea around 8 years back, and have spent last 4 exploring (and loving) Croatia.  Being Ozzies, the drink was not a solo thing, so we arrived back for bed pissed as.

Sailed on the following day (Monday I do believe through the headache) to the adjacent island of Korcula, and it’s city of same name.

________

Stunning old town, perched right on the water.  Like a mini Dubrovnik with much narrower streets and a charm of its own.  We chose to anchor (cooler we find) in the adjacent Luka Bay as opposed to going into the marina, and after spending the arvo swimming / reading / snoozing, wandered the half mile over to the city and old town. 

Of Venician origin, this small town is set within high city walls and towers that look as if they were constructed yesterday.  Inside them, narrow street and alleys are not over packed with shops, and seem to be frequented by more Croatians on holidays than overseas tourists.

We ended up eating in a open top bar overlooking the sea.  Sod the budget we thought.

Scampi and filet steak, ales, vino, and cleansing grappas along with the kind of local live music that makes you wonder why they are not really famous singers….….but the budget survived intact as it only cost 280 kunars (about 60 euros).

Skinny dipped in the dark at our quiet anchorage and again – crashed feeling pretty good.

No-one had prepared us for the beauty of the region, or the people. 

We’d been told Croatians were surly and stern, but that’s simply not the case.  The locals seem to be spending time of holidays alongside us, and laughing all the way.

We’d been told they charge you just to drop an anchor in Croatia.  Well maybe elsewhere, but not yet for us.  Price-wise it seems on par with Greece, but so many places to stop at no costs what-so-ever, we feel it’s a cheaper place to visit on a boat.

And the foods really fresh – especially the veggies.

And no-one had told us you could find this medieval stone architecture, so well preserved and of such beauty set amid palm trees either………

And as we suspect we’ll not see all we want of Croatia this time round, yet another good reason to buy a bigger boat maybe in 08, and come back from the Carib and spend more time over here?  Makes sense to me.

Cheers

JOHN