Hired the ubiquitous scooter for a Friday night out (bit of down memory lane) in Corfu town.

But note, the marina based bike hire place refused to rent us a 125cc as apparently the legal max is 80cc with just a UK car license.  The 80 cc proved just fine, but shows differing rules for differing hire shops.

We last visited Corfu – renting a villa up in Kassiopia – some 30 years back.  The boys were still in primary school, and we came with pals Mike and Lyn plus Mikes two slightly older girls, for two weeks.

It was one of those holidays you’d find hard to forget.  In those days holiday let villas were not purpose built - and ours was clearly someone’s house emptied for the summer income.  Can’t recall the lady owners name, but she did drop in the check things out, change linen at weekends, and chat away in Greek.

The kids adopted the local mongrel (which was size 4 when we arrived and size 12 by the time we left) and the then small town square adopted the kids. 

With an age range of 8 to 14 we’d send them down to the town square for supper whilst we showered after the beach, and sipped the then-favoured Harvey Wallbangers on the front step.  Then once back and in bed, we’d in turn visit the square, ask around to find who we paid for the kids bill, and eat ourselves.  Sad old world really, as I guess one couldn’t do the same today.

Anyway, on that last visit we had visited Corfu town also, and remembered it as old and lovely.  That has definitely not changed.  Corfu town sits on a headland on the west side of the island, and as you’d expect, its architecture has been heavily influenced by the various civilisations who’ve ruled here.

The Romans, Bezantines, Venicians, French and English as well as the Greeks have all contributed something over the centuries.  If you’ve ever visited Porto in Portugal, or Cadiz in Spain, and felt the living history reflected in the buildings and people, then you’d like this place also.

After buzzing along the 6 km of main road to get there, complete with Friday night drivers anxious to get home from work, Sue was pleased to get off and wander the streets of the Campiello district - the old town.

I staggered along behind, a bit Quasimodo like, with my swollen ankle.

As dusk fell, thousands of small swallow like birds began to soar around the narrow alleys and streets, chirping away like loonies as they chased their evening meal of flying insects.  They were the same species who hitched a lift from us half way twix Italy and Libya last year – dark blue / black attractive little birds.

The locals of all ages were out lazing back in cafes or simply promenading.  The place felt alive.

We too sat back (and rested the leg) to watch the world pass by.  Sipping frappe coffee in softly cushioned rattan armchairs alongside what seemed to be the main promenade street called the Liston, seemed the only thing to do on a Friday night.

We wandered the ramparts over the bay.  It sure is a busy port laid out down below us, with ferries to and fro constantly.  We should be used to it by now, but I’m always impressed by the efficient way these boats slide in and out on time.

We then lucked upon a good restaurant set way back in the alleys.  Called the Venician Well and located in Kremasti Square, it was relatively upmarket.  The  classy iron tables and chairs laid out in the square formed from four joining alleyways looked good.  Silverware, tall glasses and white linen napkins tempted us not so much into the building, but certainly onto a table set in the square under some bourganvillia.

The restaurant took the square over.  And one could see from the setting why they chose the name.  The high crumbly but so attractive walls of the surrounding buildings and church could easily make you think you were elsewhere.

Good tucker. 

Not the cheapest, but I suspect we’ve easily blown the cruising budget already.  So no point in worrying eh?

Again, some locals made it a special night.  A large and obviously well to do Greek family arrived and chose this spot to celebrate a teenage daughters christening.  So it was ‘table for 60 people, please’ and it all started happening around us. 

Big table for all the kids right next to us.  All well turned out but same as kids worldwide.  Shouting, punching the smaller kids, and comparing merits of mobile phones.

Smaller table close by for the grandparents who sat stern faced, but smiling.  Interestingly, no one else took a seat until they’d paid their respects to the oldies.  Nice touch (especially as I’m getting older).

Eventually found where we’d parked the scooter, and slower this time, buzzed our way back to Gouvia Marina with headlight blazing.  The temperature of wind that time of night on a scooter is just so good.

Boat was still stinking hot despite fans – but a few sips of red ned before hitting the sack (plus Ibroprufin for the leg) - led to a great nights sleep. 

Roared up the windy coast road to Kassiopia on the Sunday and actually found the villa we rented.  I recall it being on a quiet laneway, but it’s now on the main road past the town!  The large back garden no longer has chickens – it’s slap back full of a big three story home.  Guess a positive gain for our landlady  from renting the old place from over the years.

The town itself has grown as you’d expect – full of boom boom bars and English breakfasts.  The price of progress – good for the locals and maybe new visitors – not the best for old sadsters like me.

On the way back from Kassiopia we stopped off on one of the eastern bays / beaches for a cooling swim and late lunch. When we came here 30 years back it had one taverna on a dirt road and a single jetty.  Nothing else.

But as heavenly lobster salad with icy cold beers only set us back 17 euros pp.  With this as our view and clean water to jump back into after we'd eaten – priceless!

Overall, Corfu’s been a lovely trip down memory lane, and great to see despite the heavy influx of tourists turning to home owners, the real thing is still as attractive as it was 30 years back. 

I’d suggest a ‘must visit’ place if ever in the region – and modifying earlier views, if we ever wished to retire to a Greek island – I’d now place it ahead of Keffalonia on the list:-)

John.