Spent Saturday tied up on the town quay at Finikas on the island of Siros, and did very little.  Good job we got in here midday yesterday as Saturday’s obviously the change over day for the Moorings charter fleet that runs out of here.  By late arvo all the spots were taken and latecomers were wedging themselves in any available small space.

Our US mates we met on Paros returned here also, and tied up alongside us.  They kindly passed over assorted bags and bottles as they emptied ship and prepared to end their vacation by catching a cab to the ferry from Ermoupolis (Siros capital) then off to the airport at Athens.

The meltemi wind has finally kicked in at F5/6/7 but hanging as we were from the southern side of the quay, we were snug as a bug for out time here.  It kept up all day and on through the night, and was still howling when we awoke Sunday. 

So we decided to use that strong northerly wind to get even further west rather than hang around.  We aimed for Kithnos, a small barren island maybe 25 miles away and on our route towards the Peloponnese part of the Greek mainland, as the pilot reports on three well protected anchorages we could use to get protection from the wind.

Experienced F7 winds for most of the leg, not quite a beat but close hauled all the way to lay the top end of Kithnos on one board.  One reef in the mainsail and the genoa furled to maybe 80 percent of its regular size, and we still bucked along at between 8 and 9 knots feeling pretty balanced.  Big confused seas rolling in onto our starboard side and often dumping a lot of water over the boat did not make it a smooth crossing.  Lots of spray, the boat covered in salt crystals.  But it was fast.

Managed to top 12 knots as we rounded the top end of Kithnos and began to surf on the face of breaking waves down the western side of the island.  Not many other yachts out today in this weather – sensible really.  The few we did pass were rocking and rolling under significantly reduced sails and as most were apparently charter boat possible out for their first days sail – not a good way to start a holiday.

We hauled down sails and chose the innermost of the three anchorages which are all within 500 metres of each other half way down the western side.  Ours was a bay called Ormos Apokriosis.  Not sure we made the best choice but once we’d settled no one could be bothered to relocate.  Despite the protection of the high hillsides, the metlemi gusts continued to blast down across the water and swing the boat about.  Albeit now on flat water.  But the anchor seemed well set into the muddy bottom, the little taverna ashore beckoned, we all wanted a swim, so we stayed.

This bay does not even have what anyone would call a hamlet, ashore.  It has a long strip of sandy beach set with trees almost at the waters edge.  A small Church and adjacent schoolroom is also on the beach line adjacent to one tiny and pretty basic looking taverna, and another classier looking place at the other end of the beach.  There’s maybe four more houses in sight plus a few shepherds huts all set on the rocky hillsides, and that’s about it.

Elena – a bubbly lady who owned the small taverna - seemed thrilled when we went ashore and chose her place.  Only tucker she could serve was tzatziki, salad, lamb stew, and chips.  Even her wine was home made.  Yughgh. 

I went back to the boat and brought our own stocks ashore.  Whiled away the evening sharing it with Elena, her farmer husband John and their two kids.

None of them spoke one word of English, but we seemed to communicate OK and had more than a few laughs before heading back to the boat.

The meltemi was still howling the following morning, so the teams decided we should press on westward for the last legs through the Cycladese islands to arrive at Poros off the Pelopponese mainland, and our last cruising area with the girls on board. 

We’ve cruised that bit of coast on charter some years back, so it will be good to revisit and see how it’s changed.  It’s around 40 miles, but if the meltemi continues as forecast, it should be a fast ride. 

Cheers

JOHN