Ferry Trip to Rhodes

Alarm woke us at a horrible hour and we stumbled around sleepily trying to wake up.  Still black at 0415.  The cab arrived on time and five minutes later we were part of a growing group of foot passengers tromping up the gangway onto the huge Pireaus / Kos / Rhodes ferry.

These Blue Star ferries are the cheapest way to get around the islands (Kos / Rhodes return 37 euros per person) and whilst really plush, it was already strewn with sleeping bodies spread out on all the couches – obviously all from Athens.

The ferry turnaround into Kos and back out again was very efficient, trucks and cars roaring on and off, and within 30 minutes the props began to revolve and we were grumbling away over the flat seas under an overcast breaking dawn – south towards Rhodes. 

We seemed to get there quickly – actually just over 3 hours – and staggered off with our small backpacks onto a sunny Rhodes dock.

Quick walk along past the hugely impressive old town towards the sea front – a Greek version of an English cooked breakfast – and then off to sort a hire car.  Got a small Jimmy Jeep – 40 euros per day – and juggling a worn clutch we were off out of town and down the east side of the island. 

Rhodes is a pretty but mountainous island – lots of rocks, fir trees and narrow roads – but virtually traffic free.  Somehow we diverted inland to the ‘Valley of the Butterflys’, up via typically whitewashed villages where at times we thought of pulling in the wing mirrors to get through.  Sadly no butterflys  were in residence when we got there.

But it did mean we continued on across the mountains to the west coast, and more of less did a figure eight going south now down the west coast to the tip, then north up the east coast almost halfway, near Lindos.  Stopped just short at the small village of Pefki where we found the almost beachside Amphitriti Hotel.  One room left at 50 euros B&B.

Emptied our lightly filled backpacks and headed for the beach, a swim, and some sunbathing.  Felt like we were on holiday.

The hotel proprietor Katerina convinced us to to go into Lindos that evening for a meal.  Glad we did.  It’s built on the cliff face under an imposing old castle, and its brightly lit and colourful lanes are only wide enough for foot traffic. Hundreds of sophisticated shops, bars, and restaurants.  Well worth a visit.

We found Katarinas recommended place – Stephanies – and had a fantastic meal.  Possible best quality and best cooked mussels I’ve ever eaten (and I have eaten a lot of them).  Great night.  Not too much booze as driving back to hotel but nice doing so with warm night breezes.

Following day saw us walk the beaches early then head back to Rhodes town after breakfast to explore.  Rhodes town fairly hums and bustles.  It’s more of less divided in two – the new town just like and busy Greek City – and the old town surrounded by high medieval walls.  The old town is the tourist Mecca – filled that day with regular tourists supplemented by a contingent off a huge Cosmos Cruise Liner.  Pleased to say it’s still possible to find a backstreet restaurant and get a good value (28 euros for two) lunch.

Saw one sad outcome of last weeks gale close to the entrance to Mandraki Harbour. 

Seems this cats anchor did not hold and it was pushed back and bounced badly on the harbour wall.  They too had 60+ knot winds same day we we did when in Orhaniye.  This harbour entry is where the ancient Collosus of Rhodes was supposed to stand - a metal statue which spanned the two harbour walls with spread legs.  It is said to have collapased in an earthquake around 200 BC and been later sold for scrap!  

Back onto the 1700 ferry and feeling refreshed and relaxed as we rumbled our way back northward to Kos.   Got in just past 2000 and walked back to the marina.  Good old scrambled eggs on toast, a bottle of Italian red, a few more skype calls to family whilst we’ve still got wi-fi connection, and a deep, deep sleep. 

We’ve decided to stop over a further day to provision the boat from Kos – and still awaiting the promised southerly winds to make our journey further north west a bit easier.  They’ve been promising this changed direction from the prevailing northerlies for three days now, but it has yet to arrive.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Cheers

Sue and John