Had a great day sail yesterday from Kekova to Gocek in loose company with Robin Lee.

After a freebie bread delivery from the restaurant we used last night, we cast off at 0900 and motored out across a glassy sea under a sunny sky.  As we approached the western exit between the island protecting Kekova Roads and the open sea, the breeze began to fill in.

The early forecast from the Greek Weather service Poseidon had been favourable.  It predicted medium north easterlies to start, going to the south.  Ideal for our journey west towards Kastellorizon and then north west to Gocek.  So no surprises then when we transited the exit and found it blowing from the south west – more or less on our nose.

Hoisted main and genoa, and with Robin Lee perhaps half a mile behind under motor, we beat out to seaward making 6 – 7 knots into the 8 – 9 knot breeze.  The new genoa certainly gives the boat more purpose when beating.  More grunt.  But as it is so much bigger then the old self tacking headsail – and we’re sheeting it to the genoa tracks outside of the stays – it means we can’t point as high (as close to the wind) as we are used to.  Maybe 10 degrees lower.  That adds a lot of distance when you are tacking back of forth – so even if you are going faster, it takes longer to arrive.

So our verdict is this sail is going to suit almost all of our needs but is not the best for windward work.  Not an issue as it is rare we beat to windward when cruising around.  But if other Hanse 461 owners read this – go for the 105% genoa and not the 125% - as you can sheet that other sail inside the shrouds and maintain good angles.

We watched Robin Lee motor along the coast inshore as we worked in several tacks making slow ground towards the island group which includes Kastellorizon. 

Kastellorizon is possible the closest Greek island to the Turkish mainland and used often by UK livaboard’s from Kemer and Fetiye when they need to renew their 90 day Turkish visas.  They tend to catch the ferry over and back from Kas, renew the visa in the process, and return with a bag full of bacon rashers.

Robin Lee planned to stop in there for a visit, whilst we aimed to make the 65 mile run up to Gocek for a few days in what are reported to be ideal anchorages around the Gocek peninsular.

We watched them disappear ahead into the heat haze powering along straight into the wind under engine, as we tacked back and forth further offshore.  Hmm.  Frustrating.

After a couple of hours proving to ourselves we could still sail and tack a boat smoothly with a genoa, we got fed up watching the islands ahead not getting much bigger.  So agreeing we are cruisers and not racers any more, down came the genoa, on when the engine, and we too powered up straight into the breeze.  As we later slid past the channel twix Kastellorizon and the Turkish port of Kas (pronounced Kash), we heard Robin Leigh called up by another Kemer yacht to learnt the reason they stayed under motor was they’d torn their mainsail at Kekova.  So their revised plan was to make as much distance towards Marmaris and it’s repair facilities as they could in the day.

They were out of sight by then, but assume we more or less followed their track between the islands along this section of coast, until we were able to turn onto a NNW course past the cape at Kotu Br, and find the wind freed enough to allow us to sail on one board (ie no tacking back and forth) towards our destination.

The shoreline here came from a picture book.  Long white sandy beaches, with fir trees behind, all backed up by high mountain ranges.  The sea had changed from its darker shade to that beautiful turquoise colour, and the warm south westerly breeze remained steady for a few hours at 10 knots, allowing us to cream along under sail alone.  Swagman felt good, shouldering aside the seas as we headed NW.

It was on the stretch from Kotu Br to Iblis Bu (the island guarding the southern side of Fethiye Bay) that we finally caught Robin Lee.  They were further to seaward than us, and making good speeds under headsail alone.  The chatted briefly on the radio and as the wind died around 1700, both powered up to motor across Fethiye Bay.  We went more N, aiming to slide between the islands off of Gocek and find a spot in one of the fiord like bays inside the peninsular.  They kept to a more NW’ly course, aiming to stop in a bay more en-route to Mamaris.

By 1830 we were motoring between the islet of Dolmuz and the peninsular itself, and now finding ourselves in the company of more yachts than we’d seen sailing all day. 

Gocek is a very popular chartering spot, and as we crossed westward over Scopia Bay, a bay within the bay formed by the string of protecting islands, we saw several charter fleets scrurrying into the numerous bays, clearly to get tied up before sunset.

Our own choice was aptly named Wall Bay – a cove in the far western corner.  The small bay takes it’s name from (surprise eh) a high wall built eons ago on it’s southern side.  We’d been told the shoreside restaurant was not to be missed – and after 10 hours on the boat – both needed to stretch our legs.

The bay lived up to its reputation of being well protected from the prevailing wind, but the pilot book made no mention that the restaurant had built our floating jetties big enough to take maybe 30 yachts.  Plenty of space, nice chatty marinaros, we glided in and tied up.

Other yachts here are mainly charter and most with all male German crew.  Not sure if early summer is German Gay Sailing Week or they are simply regular guys doing blokey bloke things.  But good company in the open sided but log fire heated restaurant later that evening.

It may look like a shack, but served fabulous food complete with local folk singer and roaring log fire. 

Seems all water, provisions, in fact everything is shipped in as there’s no road access.  A very relaxing evening.

Woke at 0600 today to the clanging of goat bells as a big mob was herded along the adjacent shoreside path.  What a great way to wake up.

Suns up – waters like glass.  The setting in this cove is exquisite, with thick pines covering the slopes right down to the waters edge, engulfing everything except the ruins of old stone buildings.

We’ll slide off for a day sail round the inner bay today to see if we can find anything prettier – if not will come back here tonight and moor under anchor with a stern line taken back to the shore.

Cheers

Sue and John