5th / 8th June – From Jounieh (Lebanon) and hiccup in Haifa (Israel)

Posted at 8:55 AM, Friday, June 9, 2006

I guess of all the legs in the rally this was the one we had been expecting some possible excitement, as we knew the Israeli security was going to be tight.    

All along we’ve been advised that the Israeli Navies stringent entry procedures need to be adhered to precisely – no margin for errors at all.   

Anyway, before setting sail from Jounieh we were briefed on the need to aim for a ‘corridor’ the Israelis had set up - about three miles wide and ten miles long – just north of the borderline.  On coming out of this corridor we needed then to aim for another fixed waypoint.  We were under instruction not to reach this waypoints until daylight (about 0500), and to expect to be intercepted at sea. 

We were one of the last yachts to exit Jounieh, late afternoon, anticipating we’d motor all night as no wind was forecast.  If we kept to 6 knots boat speed, we’d arrive on time.

As we left at sunset, the lights of Beirut twinkled brightly as they slid by on the shoreline, and were soon far behind us as we headed south.

We’d already decided who would try and sleep when – but it was not easy.  After we’d scoffed some Jamie Oliver burgers for supper, Sue went below to bed.  A sloppy sea had begun to build from the west – apparently from a severe depression south of Cyprus - so sleeping proved impossible as the boat rocked and rolled across those seas.  I hoisted the mainsail to try and dampen the rolling, but if only helped a little.  Luckily shortly after midnight the breeze generated by that depression arrived off the coast – so we could at last turn off the engine and power up under sail alone.  Swagman heeled before the westerly breeze, the rolling motion stopped, and off we went.

We each got maybe 2 hours sleep during the rest of the night as the radio was alive with military and commercial traffic.  We’d been told we needed to keep a listening watch at all times in this area.

Swagman does sail well and the breeze helped us overtake almost all others in the fleet – some only motoring – and we found ourselves amid the leading group of 5 or 6 yachts that crossed the borderline at the waypoint just after dawn – around 0600.

We could all see the smudges of several gunboats on the horizon – but interestingly we could not see them on our radar screens!  Now how do they do that?  Does anyone know?

The moment we reached the exact waypoint on the border line the HF radio lit up with military calls and the gunboats roared into action.  They charged across to each yacht in turn, bow waves creaming, and whilst covering us with their guns they used the pre-specified radio channels to ask differing questions of each boat.  Fro us they asked where from?  Where to?  Names of crew? Fathers first name?  Yeah - fathers first name........

All a bit intimidating, but kind of exciting also. 

Some pretty serious looking faces behind the guns – but we did get a final wave with the OK to continue onward towards Haifa.  They then roared off to check out yet another yacht.  Seems they went through this with each and every vessel – and did actually isolate a strange yacht that had somehow got mixed up in our fleet.  That drew lots of attention – with several gun boats surrounding them whilst they also were questioned.

We were intercepted a second time by another gunboat about half way between the border and Haifa – and some of the yachts had to go through the questioning for a second time.  Lastly we were all again intercepted by a machine gun toting police rib as we approached the harbour mouth.  They just cruised close alongside, used several mark one eyeballs on us, and shot away.

Haifa is obviously a strategically important port to Israel – so no surprises when we also saw a submarine and two destroyers moving around close to the harbour mouth.

We had to stooge around the outer harbour area for a further hour after we arrived, as the first yacht that had entered was finding the procedures set up for clearing in the boats was not working fast enough.  It took them 1 hour before being able to dock – so if this was repeated on 80 yachts – some would not get in for 3 days.  By 1030 we heard the procedures had been modified to make it al happen quicker, and as we were the fifth boat to arrive, by 1100 found ourselves crawling slowly across the main harbour towards the small fishing boat / yacht marina we were due to berth in.

Our hosts in Haifa are the Mount Carmel Yacht Club, and they base themselves in the municipal marina located up a narrow channel on the SE side of the main harbour.

The security on docking did not ease up.  Hardly tied the lines when two young uniformed ladies accompanied by a young guy carrying an FN rifle came along to ask more questions and check out papers etc.  Once they’d finished we had to then go to the office and complete security check number two – which included them phoning head office in Jerusalem to check our passports were real.  Have to say it all seemed a bit OTT – but in a way it was entertaining.

The marina water is scummy and sadly it’s directly downwind from a coal power station.  So lots of dirty dust too.  Lots of apparently derelict yachts parked up here – not quite a yacht graveyard but almost.  No toilet or shower facilities even close by – but a nice on site fish restaurant called ‘Moby Dicks’.

Mr Grumpy came out on many boats as they arrived to endure the security process after rafting up in places nine deep.  Tiredness on many boats was apparent.

As one of the first in, we got a good normal berth backed onto a jetty.  Few others were as lucky – and the final rafts built up as the yachts stacked between the jetties were huge.  Lots of intertwined lines and shouting for a while, but it all settled down eventually.

The marina is located in an industrial type location a fair distance from Haifa town centre and with the power station upwind, plus high banks around, we had no cooling sea breezes reaching us.  So despite not initially planning to take a tour on the same day we arrived, we found ourselves booking a round Haifa half day tour just to get away and enjoy the air conned bus!

Haifa is a large city spreading back from the coast and up the side of Mount Carmel.  We saw lots of big houses and busy roads.  So apart for the sunshine, heat and Hebrew signage - one could think one was in any other developed European city.

That first evening the yacht club kindly hosted a BBQ on the quay - and their small committee of helpers worked really hard to make it enjoyable.  We, along with a few others, retired to a small fish restaurant almost alongside and enjoyed a good meal and some equally nice Israeli wine.

Not cheap – but enjoyable.

Wednesday we spent all day visiting the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights with its Jordanian border, dipped our toes in the Jordan River, and onto explore Nazereth.  All very interesting but the tour guide had a very biased view of local history!

Here is the Israel / Jordan border from the Golan Heights.

And here is one sad looking crew from USA J16 Pipe Dream as he's realised this pot - one of the stone water jars still displayed in a Nazareen Church in which Jesus turned the content to wine - was empty.

Thursday lazed about as the fleet was due to depart mid afternoon.  The mass exodus entertained us (as we could not move until the rafts unwound and got away) as well as the locals who turned up in numbers to watch.

Three boats had dramas.  Sadly we were one. 

Our starter motor, which burn out once before, did the same again as we chugged out of the pontoon area.  No panic was necessary – we recognised the burning smell for what it was – so did not turn off the engine but simply re-docked.  As we approached with the smoke still pouring out from below – those jumping around to take our lines kept gaping at the smoke and looking a lot more worried than we were.

So we stopped over here for one more night.  Went out to the sites fish restaurant as a small group from the three boats – and crashed aftrwards.  Awoke today to find the other two yachts left at 0300 this morning.  We can’t leave ourselves until we secure a new starter and fit it on – with luck that may happen today.  The locals are really hepful - but the sabbeth starts midday today. If not this morinig - it may happen tomorrow. 

No worries.  We’ll catch up hopefully with the fleet before they all depart from Israel for Egypt - but it loks increasingly likely we'll not have time now to see Jerusalem on this trip down - we may have to add that back in on our return joureny north.

In the meantime - on on

Cheers

JOHN