The Adventures of Sunboy the Sailboat

We have changed blogs

7:08 PM, Jul. 6, 2009

Hi everyone, due to forthcoming changes to this website, we have gone back to our old blog site of www.travelblog.org - korora 4 on tour.  We have posted two new entries and if you want to be added to the auto notification list just send us an email and we will add you, sorry for any hassles

Crossing the English Channel and our first few days in France

9:59 AM, Jun. 14, 2009

The Channel and beyond…………Crossing the English Channel for the first time.

 

Well the long awaited time had finally come and Debs and I were up pretty early to get going.  We had to wait for a bit of tide to come into the harbour so that there was enough water under the keel to get out.  We had been put in between two pylons and at low tide we simply could not leave because the water wasn’t deep enough just beyond the boat.  We had two other boats rafted up to us as well so it took a bit of work to get out but we did and we were on our way about 6.45am. 

 

It was a brilliant morning and we were bloody excited to be finally heading off across the Channel.  Because we had to wait for a bit of tide to fill, it meant that we had to work against the tide going through the channel at the north west of the Isle of Wight and the Mainland.  We motored through this area as we had to get through as quick as we could or we might have increased our travel time considerably.

 

Once we got down through the Needles and turned to the south, we put up our sails and set our course for France.  Bit of a thrill I have to say, setting sail to another country, makes the trips around Split Solitary Island seem a bit different in comparison!!

 

Whilst we were so looking forward to new countries and new experiences, Debs and I both agree that the Isle of Wight is a very special part of the world.  We loved the place and can really understand why the Brits and so many others enjoy sailing in those waters and experiencing everything the Island has to offer.

 

We sailed south, the winds were reasonably light and it was quite fascinating to be steering a course on the compass and then see what course you were actually doing ‘over the ground’ as they say in navigation speak.  People who have done this trip regularly advised us to just set the course you want to go to and as the trip progresses you will be pushed one way up the Channel for a few hours and then back down the other way as the tide changes and sure enough, that’s what it did.

 

We ended up motor sailing for a fair bit of the way because the winds just died off and rather than sit there and bob around doing a couple of knots, we wanted to get there and enter the harbour with good light and conditions.  We had heard that crossing the shipping lanes was like trying to walk across a freeway at peak traffic times and we decided to have a bit of a ballot as to the number of ships we would see.  The system they have is that northbound ships have to stay within a certain ‘path’ heading up the Channel and the same for south bound ships in their own channel.  In between the shipping lanes is a transit area.

 

Slowly but surely we lost sight of England and continued south toward Cherbourg.  Cherbourg is a pretty common stopping point for a lot of people crossing the Channel, especially newbie channel crossers such as ourselves as it is accessible in all states of tide and in all weather.  It is about 70 miles from Yarmouth to Cherbourg and we hoped to be there mid to late afternoon.

 

Maritime regulations mean that you can’t simply meander across the shipping lanes as you please but you need to cross them at right angles to the direction of traffic.  From what we had been told, I was envisaging having to side step huge ships all through the lanes and I thought we would be seeing far more ships than we actually did.  Nikki’s punt was between 20 and 40 ships and in the end I think we saw about 19 so she got the gong for the day.  I think we were pretty lucky as we got through both the north bound and south bound lanes without having to divert course, or causing any ships to alter course to get around us, something I don’t think they really ever want to do.  With their size and speed we consider it is best for us to stay right out of their way.

 

The girls just cruised along the whole trip. Layni spent her time playing Sims 2 on the computer, every so often coming up top to see what was going on and have a cuddle with Debs on the ever so comfy pet cushions that were turning into cockpit lounges.  Nik read and chatted most of the way as she does, seeming very, very comfortable at sea.

 

As we were motor sailing, we could use the auto pilot so that meant not having to steer all the way but you needed to keep a bit of a sharp eye on the water ahead as every so often you would see bits of flotsam and jetsam that could give the old boat a bit of a knock if you hit it.  Debs and I took it in turns to be ‘on watch’ at the helm and on lookout.  Debs organised lunch on the way and she is becoming such a trooper on the boat, and is able to do things that not so long ago would have seemed a big no no. 

 

Considering how crook she used to get to now being able to go below and prepare food and help the kids out is just brilliant.  Debs also does the navigating during our passages and each hour she goes through the routine of plotting our position on the chart, recording those details in our log book, estimating the distance to go, the course we need to steer, records the barometric pressure reading and compares that to the previous hour to see if we have a rising or falling barometer, records the wind speed and direction along with our boat speed and course.  So that means she spends a fair bit of time at the Nav table and of course every hour we also check our bilges to make sure everything is nice and dry.  Might seem a bit over the top to some but we are happy with what we do and we just consider it sensible practice, plus it helps to pass the time!!.

 

We had a little visitor two thirds along the way, a homing pigeon with a UK leg ring decided to drop in for a bit of a rest.  He stayed with us walking around the cockpit like he owned the place, crapping in about every corner and making himself very much at home.  The kids named him Pete the pommie pigeon.   He hung around for about an hour and then hopped up on my leg as I was having a bit of a lay down and flew off.  We saw him head back toward England and thought he must have been on his way home, feeling much lighter now that he had emptied his bowels all over our boat.  Lo and behold, 15 minutes later I looked back to the north and like a fighter plane coming from in front of the sun, here comes Pete, zeroing in on our stern once more.  He plonked himself back down, snuggled up under his wings and promptly went to sleep and stayed there for the entire trip to France!

 

Apart from our feathered friend, the only other thing of note that happened was our first little experience with tidal eddies.  I was at the helm and we were under sail only with no motor.  We had been going for about 8 hours and when I looked down at the compass, it was rotating and as I turned the helm, it continued to rotate.  I looked at the chart plotter and it was doing the same thing, my initial reaction was there was a gear malfunction but when I looked and saw the sun going around the mast I realised we were in a tidal eddy and the boat was simply turning circles!!!  We were still quite a few miles from the French coast but here we were doing the English Channel merry go round.  Quick start of the engine and forward gear got us through it without any concern whatsoever but it just blew us away as to the little quirks that nature can create.

 

We finally got some decent wind and were on a beam reach for the rest of the way into Cherbourg.  We dropped our sails and motored into the harbour and went about organising our berth.  The harbour is very busy as you can imagine and our first taste of small pontoons for bigger boats was soon to be experienced.  The marinas are very tight squeezes and they expect you to put your boat, no matter what size onto what appears to be a very small pontoon, for us, about half the length of our boat.  With no real room to work with and tides and wind working against you it is a bit of a bloody nightmare, bow thruster or not.  It seems like it is the national spectator sport for all crews on boats who are safely tucked up on their pontoon, watching the new kids come in and try their skills.

 

Try as best we could, it was causing just far too many problems for our big girl and luckily for us, a space became available on an outer pontoon that we thought we might be able to squeeze onto.  Another stroke of luck was some friends we had made in Yarmouth on the weekend of my birthday, James and Rhona Randell and their young son Matthew were berthed up on the same pontoon and were there to give us a hand.  We got tied up and touched down on France, finally having crossed the English Channel.

 

Their hospitality skills had not waned one skerrick and no sooner had we tied the boat up than we were in their cockpit having a glass of French wine to celebrate our crossing.  That continued and we ended up having nibbles with them, champagne was opened and then they turned on dinner for us.  Have to say it was just the best way to end the trip across and I fell into bed about midnight, very tired and not having a care in the world.

 

Jim and Rhona and Matthew had to leave quite quickly the next morning to catch the tide to their next port of call so it was hasty goodbyes and thank you so much and still they managed to leave us a little gift, an electric jug suitable for boats as it doesn’t draw too much power from the genny:  great people and so typical of so many of the Brits we met in the Solent.

 

So here we were in France.  I got out one of the fold up pushies from the lazarette and went for a ride into Cherbourg to buy the obligatory croissants pain au chocolat and baguettes for brekkie.  Being brutally honest, Cherbourg is not the most attractive town and as the allies almost levelled the place during the war you can understand why most of the buildings do not have the same degree of beautiful French Architecture and features as so many other places in France do. 

 

We thought me might try and hire a car and do some day trips to the Normandy beach areas where the D- Day Invasions took place but with 6 out of 7 car hire places having no cars and Avis wanting to charge us over $300.00 for one days car hire we looked at other options.

 

We ended up catching a bus ($8.00 for the family thank you very much) to a village called St Mere Eglise which was the most strategic village that had to be liberated during the Invasion.  Paratroopers were flown to the area while the invasion took place on the beaches and the intention was for the paratroopers to liberate the village and once the beachhead was secured, they could then have road access to head back north and take Cherbourg and other vital areas.

 

Obviously the fighting was brutally intense as both the allies and the Germans were fully aware of what this stage of the war meant to all parties.  We went to the Paratrooper museum and learnt so much about what when on during this famous period of the war.  The village gets its name from the Church in the centre and there is another piece of history still attached to the Church to this day.  There is a replica of a paratrooper by the name of John Steele who happened to land on the Church and his parachute got caught on the Church spire.  He spent some hours there, being shot at and feigning his death before he was captured, only to escape some hours later and continue the fighting.

 

Obviously there is a fair bit of tourism about the place and there are American, French and other allied flags all over the place but it is very clear that the French have never forgotten that the Americans liberated their village and how proud they are that their village was the first to be liberated during the war.  We had a very memorable and moving day there, made even more special by meeting up with some Aussies who were on their honeymoon, having been married in Italy a few weeks before.

 

We ended up spending a couple of days more in Cherbourg, taking in the town markets and going to a Hugo Pratt exhibition at the local art gallery.  We used our bikes a lot there as the shops and markets were a bit of a walk from the boat.  I still consider going to the speciality shops in France one of my life’s greatest pleasures, well that is until you take the stuff home and eat it!!  No one makes bread, cheeses and pate like the French.

 

Well the next part of our journey soon entered the planning stage and we were setting off to Guernsey in the Channel Islands.  We had never been there before and were looking forward to the challenge of going through the infamous Alderney Race and on to new adventures and experiences.

 

To be continued………………..

  

The Transition - from Landlubbers to Liveaboards!!

11:50 AM, May. 23, 2009

The Transition - from landlubbers to liveaboards!!

 

Well my friends, it seems that finally I am able to get things back on track and get this blog up and running.  There have been distant rumbles from down under (and from the old dart) about the lack of blog entries so finally, the time has come to allow me to correct the errors of my ways and get stuck right into it.

 

So much seems to have happened in such a short space of time and I will do my best to recollect where we have been, who we have met, and the things we have done.  As can be seen from the title of this blog, it really feels like we are on our way to making the transition from landlubbers to liveaboards.  It may seem like the term liveaboards carries with it thoughts of carefree days, sunshine, and not a worry in the world, the truth be known, there are a few other little intricacies of life that accompany us as we embark on our new path forward, I hope I can set about in this blog just what life is like for us now.

 

Well it was Good Friday when I last blogged and that was back on the 10th of April.  We were in Cowes which is a really great buzzy, yachty, boatie, have a good time kind of place.  Our all time favourite place in Cowes still remains as the business known simply as ‘That Shop’ and it is the second hand book shop in the High Street.  We have visited there very often and always left with a bag full of bargains and our boat is starting to look a bit like a floating library and our joy of reading is expanding day by day.

 

While we were in Cowes we met John, Bev and Daisy Ford.  These guys pulled up next to us in their yacht and we did what just about everyone else does and that is take their lines as they were coming into berth and help them tie up.  It wasn’t too long before they were over on our boat with a couple of bottles of wine and a very special friendship started.

 

We left Cowes, sailing in their company, heading for Portsmouth and kidnapping Daisy, their 10 year old daughter who had become great chums with Layni.  Layni and Daisy on our way to Portsmouth


We stopped at a marina called Gunwharf Quays at Portsmouth and to cut a long story short, Daisy ended up having a couple of nights sleep over with us.  Portsmouth, like all of the Solent area, is an area steeped in History, particularly history relating to Henry the VIII and his involvement in the commencement of the Royal Navy. 

 

There is a huge historical complex at Portsmouth which covers the period from Henry the VIII and his beloved ship the Mary Rose, Nelson’s famous flagship the Victory and up to more modern vessels.  The wreck of the Mary Rose was discovered just off Portsmouth Harbour in recent times and the museum features a film about the discovery of the wreck, which, at the time of discovery was just three pieces of timber sticking out of the mud up until they salvaged most of the starboard side of the hull by slow and tedious methods of vacuuming the mud away from the wreck and removing all of the artefacts that they could before raising the remains of the hull.  From a diver’s perspective and a being a bit of an old fossicker at heart, the film was totally fascinating.

 

We then had the incredible pleasure of taking our time looking at examples of all of the artefacts that had been recovered and painstakingly restored.  The remains of the hull, which are in fact quite substantial, are stored in this special type of building where liquid wax is pumped into the timber, literally by soaking it in a giant shower recess and that process has been going for some years and will continue for some years to come to ensure the preservation of the timberwork.

 


We spent the day on site and took in a tour of Nelson’s ship, the Victory which is open for public exhibition.  It really was a walk back in time, with the ship still maintained as she was during her fighting years.  The ship has never been decommissioned and to this day is still the most senior of all Royal Navy Vessels.  As such, every time a Royal Navy Vessels goes past her, the ships company must man the decks and salute the Victory.  Tradition and honour still play a big part in today’s Navy.

 

 

We enjoyed Portsmouth and Daisy’s company very much and from that time we have been able to catch up more often with the family and extended family including Bev’s Dad Mick and John’s Mum and Dad on a few more occasions.

 

We left Portsmouth and headed further up the river to Port Solent Marina and launched into a serious attack on the huge chandlery that is positioned there.  More and more equipment is being taken on board to enhance our simple pleasures of life with such things as a BBQ to more serious requirements such as Navtex which gives us weather broadcasts via digital radio broadcasts from Germany, man over board equipment, charts, cruising guides, fog horns, blocks, ropes and a thousand and one other things that slowly but surely become necessary to make the boat safe and day to day life as normal as possible.   So after saving the British economy once again, we left Port Solent via a very narrow and shallow passage making our way back down to the Solent.


The Solent became our cruising grounds for the next few weeks while we waited for various things to happen or arrive to allow us to cut our ties with England and start our long journey home. 

Our package we had sent from home had not arrived and as we were not sure how long it had been since the liferaft on the boat had been serviced, we sent that away just to make sure.  We also decided to have the liferaft packed into a hard case and that had to be sent over from France so that took a fair bit longer than expected.

We basically sailed in big circles around the area, going as far west as Poole to the south west and then taking in other Ports such as Lymington, which has great markets on Saturdays, Yarmouth, Cowes, and the Folly, all on the Isle of Wight. 

We spent Debs birthday in Lymington, trying our best to make her day a bit special, Nikki and Layni prepared Debs a very special brekkie in bed and then we headed to the Markets where it is very easy to spend a few hours wandering the length of the High Street where stalls are set up on both sides of the road.   We bought some herbs to see if we could make any improvement on our previous attempts at gardening, and so punnets of basil, mint, coriander, thyme and parsley were added to our boat acquisition list.

 

 

 

 

While we were in Lymington we also spied a piece of kit called a Creda Brand spin dryer.  Now this little piece of magic is a stand alone spin dryer that doesn’t need to be wired in, you simply plug it into the 230v socket in the boat and you don’t need to plumb it in, it has a hose that leads from it and the water is pumped out.  After spending far too much time and effort in Croatia hand washing and then trying to hand wring between washes and rinses, we had looked long and hard at other options to ease the pain of no washing machine on the boat.  Our friends Steve and Maggie White who we met in Croatia told us about the Creda and Maggie advised us it was an essential piece of equipment in the cruising wardrobe. 

 

By this stage we had also purchased a Honda portable generator as an alternative power source and it was proving to be an exceptionally good bit of gear.  We looked at other alternatives such as wind generators, solar panels, additional alternators and the like but overall this looked to be a cost effective alternative to our plans for this year.  So instead of having to run the engines twice a day, we start up the genny and it charges our battery bank, quietly and very efficiently.  It also allows us to run the spin dryer when we don’t have shore power which is most of the time because it is so much cheaper.  The spin dryer works so well and Debs has developed a really effective system of doing the never ever ending routine of washing.  To add to our never ending list of gear we have bought to make life easier, we bought three big plastic tubs.  Debs soaks clothes overnight and then they are agitated by hand, sometimes by big flat feet and we spin the soap out, rinse and spin a couple of times and then turn the boat into a massive clothes line.  The things we used to take for granted at home!.


 

Hot water for showers necessitates the running of the engine as the hot water heater just draws too much power on the genny to allow us to use the dryer and other bits and pieces on the boat at the same time so if we aren’t staying near on shore showers, we have to run the engine for half and hour or so for nice steaming hot water. 

 

We had a couple of drinks that afternoon of Deb’s birthday at the Royal Lymington Yacht Club which is a very, very pukka place overlooking the river.  This Club has produced many Olympic Yachting Champs and we felt very chuffed to be there.  John and Daisy and Bev’s Dad Mick had sailed down to join us for the weekend and that evening we christened our new BBQ with some special venison and red wine snags from the local gourmet butcher, have to say the little barbie worked a treat.  John and Mick had been pondering on how to open the emergency tiller hatch that we, and many other technicians had not been able to budge.  This had been causing me a fair bit of angst as I did not want to be undertaking any serious passages with being able to access the emergency tiller should the steering give way.  John is the ultimate Mr Fix It and lo and be hold, half a bottle of nail varnish remover later, the hatch was open; the man is a true genius!!

 


At the end of April we made a trip up to Southampton where we left the boat for three nights while we went up to London to catch up with our friends Craig and Catherine and their children, Nathan and Keira.  We first met Craig and Catherine in Australia when they were cycling their way around our country and we stayed with them when we were over here in 2003.  They are such great people and their hospitality and kindness were so greatly appreciated. 


 

We took the girls into London and because we didn’t have a great deal of time, we more or less had a quick squiz around town but did have a chance to spend an afternoon at the Natural History Museum which is just brilliant.  We had been there before in 2003 but it is a place you could go back to again and again and never tire of it.

 



Craig and Catherine also took us to Heavers Castle which was the home of Anne Boleyn and whilst not a big Castle it was a brilliant place to spend the day, taking the tour through the Castle and spending time in the incredible gardens.  We also bought a little chilli plant at the Castle gardens, hoping to take it back to the boat to add to our herb garden and to later be able to add it to the home cooked meals we do on board the boat.

 



We left the company of our friends and went back into London and spent Sunday afternoon with Deb’s nephew Andrew Casey.  Andrew and his girlfriend Casey have been in London for about 4 years and we really enjoyed being able to spend time with Andrew and wandered about the Thames area before we had to catch the bus back to Southampton.

 

We left Southampton and headed back to Hythe Marina with our hearts full of hope that the super sucker holding tank cleaner outerer would be able to work some kind of miracle and clear the blockage that had been driving us mad for so long.  We had tried everything known to man to try and clear it, gallons of vinegar, lime scale cleaner and some other bottles of weird concoctions that Merlin the Magician would have been proud to claim, all to no avail.

 

Well the good news is that during this heart stopping process, liquid was finally able to be seen flowing from the inside of the holding tank to the outside of the hull.  I thought Debs was going to burst into tears with relief – finally our crapper was cleared!!!.We ended up staying a night or two in the marina and found the little village of Hythe was a bit of a hidden gem, tucked away behind the marina and imposing lock system.

 

We left that area and were planning on sailing back down to Lymington to pick up some more cushions that we had bought at the markets.  We try and dodge the Ned Kelly Homesteads a.k.a chandleries as much as we can and Deb’s eagle eyes had spotted these big cushions at the Lymington Markets being sold at a Pet stand as pet cushions – Simmy would absolutely love them.  The cushions are made out of gortex and are waterproof and they fitted our cockpit seats perfectly.  They cost a fraction of the price that anything similar in the chandleries would cost so we wanted to make sure we had enough to fill the cockpit and increase our comfort factor. 

 

It started to blow dogs of chains when we left the Southampton River so instead of a few hours beating into it we decided to take the easy way out and head up the Medina River from Cowes on the Isle of Wight and head for the famed Folly Inn.  Just about everyone we had met spoke of this pub and the Saturday night ritual of people having their dinner and then the tables being cleared for the patrons to stand up on and dance the night away.  With the rather stringent licensing laws at home where if you even looked like you were thinking of getting up on the tables would have you tossed out, we thought place was a must see.  We had arranged to meet John and Sue and the Ford family up there as well so we snuck up early to ensure we got a berth as we were told the place gets packed, both in the pub and in the river on the pontoons.

 

The place lived up to it’s reputation and sure enough, after about 9.00pm, the tables are cleared and just about everyone in the place gets up on the table and dances away to their hearts content.  The place is an absolute hoot and everyone has the time of their lives, us included.  To top it off, the food is great, it is excellent value and we had a brilliant time.

 

You park your boat next to pontoons which are secured in the river and as things get busier, other boats are rafted up next to you and other boats next to them until the whole river is a raft of yachts.  The little water taxi’s do a roaring trade taking patrons to and from the pub.  We opted for the water taxi rather than our little tender to make sure we all didn’t end up in the drink after a big night.

 

We loved being up the river, it was quite rural around the pub and in fact that was about the only thing on the river.  There is a large town upstream called Newport and we did a few trips up there in our little tender as it was too shallow to take our yacht upstream any further than where we were berthed.  We bought some planter boxes to increase the space for our little herbies which were starting to show signs of wanting to expand their soil space and we spent the afternoon doing some gardening, re-potting, fertilising and wishing our little garden the best of luck.

 

We ended up spending about 10 days in that area, taking day trips around the Island by local bus and also spending a day at Osborne House.  I had no idea about this place before we left home and I have to say it was one of THE most incredible places I have ever been to.  Osborne House was the summer house of Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert.  The home has been essentially left the way it was in the days she and her husband and children lived there.  I wish I had the ability to describe all of the features of the house, which is in fact the size of a Castle, the gardens and everything inside it but I can just say that it was worth the trip from Australia to see it.  I am sure there is a web site for it that may give you some idea of what it is like and for anyone heading to the UK, please put it on your must see list.



Our little stay on the Medina River also allowed us to head over to Ryde where we were told was a pretty good music store that sold second hand guitars.  So Miss Lizzy, you will be pleased to know that we now have a very nice second hand Yamaha guitar on board and we hope that you have been practicing long and hard so you can come jamming with us very soon!!! 

 

The weather started to improve and the time came for the official unveiling of Debs hammock that had been gathering dust balls since we gave it to her for Christmas some years ago.  Our package had finally arrived from Australia and that was one of the things that Deb’s had been very keen on getting out and on deck.  We opened it up and the wind took hold of it and it looked like a new multi coloured mini spinnaker until we were able to get control of it.   We attach it to the clew of the headsail and then back to the mast and it is the perfect spot to catch some gamma rays and reeeeelax big time.

 

One whole Saturday was spent walking about two miles up to Newport, then an hour on the bus to Yarmouth and then catching the ferry to Lymington and then another long walk just to get to the markets to buy the remainder of the cushions we had been waiting to get and then back again but I have to say, the comfort factor they have created was totally worth the hours of travel just to get them.  No more ducking in the car and down to Homebase.

 

We left the Folly and had a couple of more days down at Cowes, restocking and recycling books from ‘That Shop’, and having some work done to fix our diesel heater.  We also took the plunge and bought two fold up push bikes.  We had seen these about a lot and most cruising yachties we spoke to who had them raved about them.  We had considered them for some time and we found a couple that were well priced and we haven’t looked back since we got them.  They are a hoot to ride and are actually really handy.  They fold up, basically in two and they only have 20” wheels so I look a bit like bozo the circus clown when I get on them but hey, they work!

 

We headed back to Hamble Point Marina and picked up the last of our gear we had been waiting for and were finally at a point of being able to plan our trip across the English Channel to France. 

 

We use a program on the internet called Passage Weather which gives very good weather forecasts for up to seven days for designated areas all around the world.  We had used it extensively for the past couple of months, testing their forecasts against actual weather and it proved to be very accurate.  The forecasts include wind strengths and direction, barometric pressure and wave height and directions.  We analyse all this data together with tidal information we obtain from a software program we bought some time ago which gives us data regarding tide heights and the direction and time of tidal flow.

 

As the tides in this area are so strong, it is really important to be able to work out all the tidal and weather factors as this can mean the difference between getting somewhere easily or, at times, not getting there for hours later.  It was also very important to be able to get used to doing these exercises as when we head across the Channel, the tides get much bigger and the tidal currents much, much stronger and in areas such as the Alderney race, can get quite dangerous.

 

It used to fascinate us when we were sitting in the marina at Yarmouth, watching yachts heading through the narrow channel in that area between the Isle of Wight and the mainland of the UK.  The tide used to run so strongly through there.  We used to watch yachts going with the wind, some of them with full spinnakers up, full mainsails up, trimmed to perfection, heeling slightly and going absolutely no where, being stuck in the current against the tide.   Yachts going the other way would be absolutely screaming along, setting all time speed records with hardly any sail up at all.

 


We used the tide to our benefit on most occasions that we could, particularly on our sail across to Poole which was about 30 odd miles away.  Both on the trip over and the trip back, we didn’t have much wind, just enough to fill the sails and we covered the distance in next to no time.  On the way back, through the same channel I was just talking about, the water was literally boiling under the boat.  Debs was at the helm and the boat was being moved about quite powerfully, we were doing over 8 knots over the ground with no sail and no motor!

 

So we checked passage weather and the forecast looked very good for the weekend of the 23rd and 24th of May, calm conditions for our maiden crossing of the famous English Channel.

 

We went back to Cowes to get the remainder of work finished on our webasto diesel heater and grab a few more bibs and bobs including having to fit a new shower pump as the one in our shower had packed it in.  The new one works much better and sucks that shower water in no time at all.

 

The good part about going back to Cowes was we were fortunate to be able to catch up with the Ford family for lunch and say our goodbyes.  We have become such good mates and it was pretty emotional saying goodbye, seems we have done quite a bit of that in the last few months.

 

We headed over to Lymington with a fully functional heater which works a treat, running off the same diesel tank that we run the engine from and it makes the boat sooooo warm and toasty.  Our main aim of going to Lymington was to be able to catch up with John and Sue Alison and have dinner with them before we headed off and so off to the pub with them on the Friday night to say our goodbyes, hoping that we might be able to cruise with them for a while when they head off a bit later in the month, heading down our way. 

 

After going to the markets and buying a tomato plant and a pot of ‘busy lizzy’ or as we know it back home, ‘impatience’ we spent the Saturday going over everything on the boat to make sure she was ready to cross the channel and see us on our way finally.  We headed back over to Yarmouth on the Saturday, preparing for a very early departure Sunday morning. 


The boat was checked and double checked, including my first trip up to the top of the mast to check the windvane that appeared to be a bit out of kilter, bloody hell it is a long way up there.  Our passage plan was done, final weather checks were done and all looked good.


 By now we felt as though we had just about everything on board that we both needed and wanted, especially our little herb garden that is absolutely powering, adding fresh flavours to so many meals we cook on board.  Debs has added a red geranium to the busy lizzy and both are blooming brilliantly and drawing so many admiring comments and looks from other yachties.

 

The transition from landlubbers to liveaboards was a physical feeling that I think we were all experiencing and it was like the whirlwind fog that we had been enveloped in since we had decided to buy the boat was lifting.  Our daily lives have changed so incredibly since we left home and of course there are routine and mundane things to do but the boat has become so much a part of our lives and we, so much a part of the boat.   It is a very special time of our lives.   We are living on board our boat and we are landlubbers no more

 

Tomorrow we set sail on our long trip back to Australia. 

 

To be continued…….

The Beginning

9:35 PM, Apr. 11, 2009

About 40 years ago, I was living in my home town called Cumnock.  We had a creek that ran through the back paddock and as kids we used to play in and around the creek, swimming amongst the barbed wire, old tin and broken bottles, catching crayfish and now and again build rafts.  I have a very clear recollection of one day, sitting on my raft in the middle of the creek which was only about 4 metres across at most.  The raft was made from 12 gallon oil drums and pieces of timber I had been able to scrounge up.  I also had a wooden crate on top and that was my ‘cabin’. The raft was only about 2 metres by a metre in size but to me she was the best boat in the world.  As I was sitting against my cabin, I had a thermos of tea with me and I sat back, basking in the sunshine, closed eyes and started to dream, a dream that has lasted 40 years; to one day be sitting on my own yacht, basking in the sunshine, having a cup of tea.

 

How much life has changed over those years and I think I have more memories than there are stars in the skies.  Memories that reflect on so much life, a life I believe that has been full of so many good times and one in which  I have been very, very lucky.  I guess we all share the same path at times, when opportunities are presented to us.  We can do something about them or we can let them pass us by.  As most of you who have known me, I have always been waiting for that one particular opportunity that has eluded me for all those years.  Last year that opportunity came my way and also for my family.

 

Every day for who knows how long, the daily trawl of the internet was undertaken, looking at boats, reading sailing blogs and sharing some great sailing times with Debs and the girls, and good friends, on charters or out sailing with mates, kind enough to share their boat and time together.

 

In December 2009, my life and the life of my family was about to change like it had never done before.  We saw our boat, ‘Sunboy’, advertised for sale on the internet.  When we first saw her, we thought the price was a mistake so Debs and I rang the broker to make some more inquiries.  The price was confirmed and we literally sat there in shock, realising that an opportunity that I had waited all those years for was now open to us.  We discussed options with Nikki and Layni, very openly and very honestly and at the end of the day, the decision was unanimous, lets try and buy the boat.

 

Hey, it wasn’t much to ask, lets just take the kids out of school, sell off most of our material possessions, close down a business that I had spent 10 years building up, put ourselves into debt and go half way around the world and live on a boat, away from all of our cherished friends and family and start to live a life that we had never done before:  well not for any real length of time anyway.  That’s not too much for a husband and father to ask for, is it?  The fire did burn very deep within.

 

Deb and the girls wanted me to do whatever I could to seize this opportunity.  We were so fortunate to have a friend, John Allison who worked near wher ‘Sunboy’ was berthed in England and he was able to head down and do a preliminary check of the boat and he confirmed that I needed to head over and not waste much time doing it.  Debs and I looked at the option of both of us heading over to inspect the boat but the earliest we could both get over on frequent flyer points was late January and I was not confident, no matter what the world economy was doing, that the boat would not be sold by then.  The window of opportunity, I believed, was closing.  It was a bit like Haley’s comet in a way, the opportunity had arrived only once in all those years and it might be that amount of time or even more before it arose again and I was not going to wait anymore.  I remember going to bed one night, tossing and turning everything over in my mind and I woke Debs and told her that if I didn’t go now, the boat would be gone.  At 2.00am in the morning, my Darling was on the phone to Qantas frequent flyer staff and two days later I was on a plane heading for London!!!!

 

I had a week to inspect the boat, do the sea trials, arrange for an out of water survey and negotiate a purchase.  The combination of what I was embarking on and the life changing decisions Debs and I were making, over the phone to each other, coupled with a hefty dose of jet lag made me feel totally devoid of reality.   Within 4 days the deposit had been paid, the noose around the opportunity had begun to tighten.

 

I arrived home, with a truck load of emotions going on and I wasn’t alone.  We were all so excited and happy but also, and quite naturally, we were also just a tad anxious.  Debs had been able to secure 4 frequent flyer flights back to the UK on the 18th of March so our date with destiny had been made.  New experiences were had in the world of foreign exchange, holding ones breath for 12 hours is not an easy thing to do, sending off the balance of the boat payment into the deep dark hole of the international internet banking world.

 

Christmas and New Year came and went, and time started to tick down. Finally the papers came through.  We had our boat, the money had arrived and the papers were signed over.  SY Sunboy was ours.

 

The weeks started to fly past, we organised Nikki and Layni into Distant Education Schools, Nikki at Camden Haven and Layni at Port Macquarie.  Furniture and household goods were being sold like there was no tomorrow and of course our ‘voly’ went as well.  Emotions were starting to run a bit, especially when it came to find new homes for our dog Simmy and our cat Micah.  Every second of time spent with friends and family became so precious for we knew that very soon we would be leaving and not knowing when we would see you all again.  You mean so much to us, more than you could ever imagine.

 

I have to be honest and I think I speak for all of us when we really questioned what we were doing, not once or twice, but often.  Was this really the right thing to do?  Only time would tell.  It was not only my life that was going to change but also each and every member of the family and we were collectively and individually feeling emotions that none of us had ever felt before.  Through all this time, the bonds of friendship became even stronger and no one suggested that what we were doing was wrong in any way.   The love, encouragement and support from all of you has been incredible.

 

Before we knew it, we were at Coffs Airport and saying tearful farewells.  This was the longest Debs and I had ever lived in the one place and it was the first time the girls had ever moved away from the area where they were born.  Suffice to say it was an emotional flight to Sydney.  We flew to London via Bangkok and then caught the bus down to Southampton where we were met by Andy Cunningham, the broker we had purchased the boat through.  By about 2.00pm on Thursday the 19th of March, we all stepped aboard our new boat.

 

The adventures of ‘Sunboy’ the Sailing Boat had begun…..

 

Being honest, it was cold, we were all so very tired and all a bit drained from the 36 hours of travel, little sleep and the emotional upheaval of leaving home. Having said that, we were also very excited and for Debs and the girls, I was their first view of our boat.  Layni literally squealed with excitement from the time she first saw Sunboy from the marina office to the time she was able to step on board.

 

Our boat was berthed at Hamble Point Marina and whilst the marina has great facilities, there was nothing there to amuse / entertain Nikki and Layni, except some very good wi-fi internet connections.

 

As this was our first ever boat, Debs and I had anticipated a very steep learning curve but did not expect it to happen as fast as it did!  The second day on board and Debs uttered those words you just hate to hear; “Alsy, the toilet isn’t working”  “That’s alright Darling, I’ll call a plumber”.  Well that’s what I would have said when I was back home.  But that’s not what ‘boat owner’s do.  Alsy, it’s only some screws and some plastic pipe after all, get in and have a go son.  Those of you who know me well completely understand that my level of technical ability only extends to being able to put batteries into things and that is when the + and the – sign are clearly marked, both on the batteries and the thingamajig that I have to put them into.  I bought my first ever tool box loaded with bright shiny tools and gizmos only about three years ago and that was just to make Paddo, our neighbour at the time, think that I knew how to use it!!  Of course he knew better and saw straight through the ruse.  The thought of having to take a manual flushing toilet apart was way out of my comfort zone.

 

Well fortunately, the previous owner had left an absolute plethora of tools and gadgets on board when he sold it to us so into the aft head I went.  The problem was that the manual pump was not working so whatever went into the loo could not be pumped out of it, fortunately this break down had occurred after morning ablutions so it was just a matter of sea water used to flush the system  was not able to be pumped in or out.

 

I felt a bit like a bomb disposal expert sitting down, pondering my fate, wondering whether or not an explosion was about to take place!  Give me shrapnel any time rather than the contents of this system.  Slowly but surely the whole thing was taken apart, rubber seals reset (now there is a technician’s term), a bit of lube here and there and time to put the whole thing back together again.  Now that’s another story but I am very happy to report that not long after, Alsy was doing whoops and hoops throughout the boat while Debs very proudly stood over the porcelain idol, pumping away to her hearts content, testing and retesting to make sure the whole repair job had not been a figment of her imagination!  Avid readers, you have to realise just what a momentous occasion this was in my life, I had actually fixed something.  Well thank goodness that was all that was going to go wrong.  We were lucky to get away with that weren’t we?  And so life on the boat was quickly going to turn into nirvana:  no more problems:  Sunshine, warmth and lazy days reading over charts and pilotage books planning a very nice summer cruising program.

The cleanest boat in the marina

 

How naïve and innocent we were!!!  It seemed like every other day something else would stop working and at any time I was expecting Debs to throw down the tools and say enough is enough but never, at any stage did any words of regret or anger come forth.  The problems were all relatively small but they were just not what we had anticipated.  But in reality, the boat has had such little use since she was launched and had been through such a harsh winter when things freeze up and break, things were bound to go wrong. 

 

The girls all tucked up in computer land

some more cleaning of our new baby

All in all we have been able to repair, fix or replace all of the problems presented to us, the grand finalist being the porcelain cartridge in the tap of our bathroom off our cabin.  A tiny little piece of plastic that formed a collar for an ‘O’ ring had broken off, it was only about 4mm long and about 1mm high but it meant that our basin tap continually leaked significant amounts of water when we turned the fresh water pump on.  A replacement tap was going to cost about two hundred pounds until I came up with the brilliant idea of building our own little collar for the ‘O’ ring.  A plastic pen was sacrificed, a small collar was cut off it and superglued into place and voila!! Tap fixed.

 

Things were starting to smoke along, problem arose, problem fixed, was there no end to the skills that Debs and I were acquiring.  Well then, oooohhh yes, the dreaded blocked holding tank.  For those of you who don’t know, which would be me and maybe one other, a holding tank is a stainless steel tank on a boat that the contents of the toilet are pumped into and you then have a leaver on a hose that lets the contents be released into the sea when it becomes full.  Well that is what is meant to happen.  When one of these things gets blocked and people try to pump waste out, a thing called a vacuum is created and that means the contents of the said holding tank are then being stored under great pressure and that pressure has to be released or the said holding tank could, under extreme pressure, rupture.and empty the said contents into the bottom of the boat – i.e. the time that Debs and the girls say bye bye Alsy and I would be left with a boat full of s*$#t.

 

Armed with some trusty thin wire, for the unblocking of the blockage in the pipe, caused by what we suspected was a carelessly discarded baby wipe (thank you Alsy) was simply going to be the case of put thin wire up through the hole that is under the water at the side of the boat and all is good.  Well that just didn’t happen and I am not sure if I was imagining things but I swore I could hear the holding tank start to growl and rumble, seeking immediate release.

 

By this time, I was standing in the inflatable dinghy at the side of the boat, the water was about 10’ Celcius and I was confronted by a small screw down cap on the top of the deck where you can also have a very heavy duty pump placed into the tank to pump it out.  All I had to do was release the cap, very carefully of course, and let some pressure out so we could travel to the pump out facility and have it pumped dry and the blockage sucked out.   Well I think the contents of the holding tank must have had enough of their entrapment and as soon as I started to release the cap, it erupted like Mount Vesuvius.  Where was I to go, dive into the bloody freezing water – no thanks.  So there was Alsy, standing in his little dinghy at the side of his beloved boat, covered in it.  Debs had to run off, not only to escape the deluge that was now covering the side of our beloved boat but to also allow her some place to be able to erupt in gut wrenching laughter at what she had seen take place.

 

We spent the rest of the afternoon, cleaning the boat(s) and myself and whilst we had emptied the contents of the holding tank, we still didn’t clear the blockage.  So off we hopped up the river to another marina that had a pump out facility.  We got up river and radioed ahead and they explained that when we saw the three green lights the lock was clear to enter – Lock – hang on a minute, aren’t they those things you go into on the canals of France.  Wait a minute mate, we have only owned the boat for a week, we can’t go though a lock.  Well yes you can and yes we did and we tied up in the Hythe Marina and engaged a very serious bit of kit called a holding tank pump out facility.  This thing could have sucked up the Titantic from the ocean floor I think and when we heard a very loud thud and saw a lump go through the pipe, Debs and I both thought, ha ha, got you, you bastard.  We cleared the girls holding tank for good measure and headed back out though the lock thinking our blocked head days were a thing of the past.

 

So after all the time packing the boat, getting up to Southampton and getting some great storage goodies from the biggest IKEA store we had ever seen, repairing and replacing things, we just about had time to catch our breath.  Well that was after John Allison helped us transport some very nifty wooden bed slats from IKEA to our boat.  These slats are joined together and are curved so they allow the foam mattresses we have to be raised up of the bed frame to allow ventilation and also provide a nice touch of comfort thank you very much.  We spent some time, cutting each of the slats to fit into the unusual shape of our bed but it has been well worth it, so much so, we are going to get some for each of the girls beds. 

making some fiddles for the cupboards

We took the boat out for her maiden voyage on the 30th of March and had a little sail over towards Cowes.  We only put the main up to the 2nd reef and skipped across the water, feeling very chuffed with ourselves.  The girls hadnt sailed for over 12 months so the lack of sail area meant a very comfortable and very easy sail for their first trip out.

maiden voyage

maiden voyage

The following weekend was spent with John and Sue Allison and had a brilliant time with them.  They live in an area called Sway just near the New Forrest and they have horses and chooks and dogs and are just the best guys to pal around with.  Layni just loved collecting the fresh eggs from the chooks and the taste of them for brekky in the morning was just the best.

 

John and Sue also have a Hanse yacht the same size as ours and they have travelled over 30,000 miles in theirs and their knowledge and experience base is just incredible.  We had a great weekend in their home and came back to the boat full of enthusiasm and inspiration.

 

Not long after we got the terrible news about the floods in Coffs and what had happened to our home.  To be so far away at a time like that was just horrible and thinking we had lost so much was just devastating.  We will never know how to adequately write the words to say thank you to all those who helped through that time, saving our very, very treasured possessions and we cannot express how much we appreciate what you did for us.  I am simply not able to explain what it felt like when we got the news that so much had been saved.  It was, in so many ways a real turning point. 

 

People over here have been incredibly friendly and helpful to us, taking us to shops to buy essentials for the boat, giving us tips and advice and making life so much easier in our new little world.   Our berth buddy at Hamble Point, Mike Lilley has been of great help.  Debs measured up the cupboards in our galley and Mike cut some shelving to fit and all Debs and I had to do was fit the mounting brackets and screw them into the cupboards and hey presto, double the storage space.  We have also cut and fitted some ‘fiddles’ (wooden slats) to go across open storage areas to allow us to store even more stuff, especially all the great books we bought from a fantastic second hand book store in Cowes for 99p each. 

 

Debs has started a little bit of school work with Layni and it is compulsory for her to wear her school maam hat each time she does.  Layni found this old tartan hat on board and it suits the job to a tee, we only hope that Layni pays the same attention and respect to her ‘new’ teacher as she did to her previous ones.

Now that is a school maam's hat

 

We have left Hamble Point Marina and been out and about on our boat, starting to enjoy all that we had hoped our new life was going to bring.  We haven’t gone very far but it has been so good.   We sailed from Hamble Point over to Cowes on the Isle of Wight last Saturday and from there we sailed down to Yarmouth on Sunday, a run of about 17 miles, marina to marina.   Sailing in this area is really nice:  it is quite protected and gives us a good chance to check out the boat, with conditions being very easy to manage.  The main thing to be aware of is the tide changes and the currents that they create.  Sailing with the tide is a bit like being on a travelator in an airport, hussling along without having to do much at all really, point boat where you want to go, set sails and hang on!!.  Going against the tide is another experience altogether though.  We saw a yacht the other day will full mainsail up, full genoa, heeled very nicely into the breeze on a close hauled setting going absolutely nowhere. It was simply just sitting there, looking like she was doing about 7 knots across the water but was stopped like she was one of those models sitting on a shelf.

 

When we arrived in Yarmouth, we again caught up with John and Sue and some of their friends and had a great fish, chips and pints lunch at a restaurant called Salty’s.  Salty’s is a bit of an institution at Yarmouth and lots of people head over to the Island for lunch and stop in there.  There are signatures and ‘ditties’ by visiting yacht crews and travellers and Nikki and Layni left there mark on the ceiling of the restaurant.  John and Sue and their friends all headed back to Lymington but we ended up staying there for 4 nights, including my birthday. 

Lunch at Salty's at Yarmouth (more following)

 

We explored Yarmouth, taking in the Castle and surrounding areas.  Layni and I went to the Castle and basically did a school excursion one morning and she (and I) absolutely loved it.  The castle was basically built in the 16th century as a fortification against French Invasion and the things that Layni learnt in such a short space of time was, to me, a vindication of our reasons for taking her out of school.  Her words summed it up when we left the Castle, she said, “Dad that was so cool.  At home I would have looked at some pictures in a book but here I am in the castle.” 

Layni at Yarmouth Castle

Another day was spent walking about 4 kilometres up to a village called Freshwater and wandered around the old church and graveyard, fascinated by all the hundreds of year old headstones and inscriptions.  A quick drink in the Red Lion Pub and off we headed back to Yarmouth via a nice walking track, through the meadows and fields, even spotting a couple of pheasants, bringing back the words of that old rhyme about some pheasant plucker and his pheasant plucking son who spent his time plucking pheasants, for reasons yet to ever be discovered.  Personally I thought the pheasants were far to nice to even conjour up the idea of plucking out their very pleasant looking pheasant feathers.

 

On the way to the village of Freshwater

Yarmouth Marina

We sailed back to Cowes yesterday and Debs sailed the boat most of the way back here.  Debs and Nikki are developing skills and confidence at an incredibly rapid rate and we are all starting to work really well together when it is time to get the boat underway and make way.  The boat has blown me away as to how well she sails.  She is so fast and so responsive and like the one we had last year, so friendly as far as handling her is concerned.   The only real issues we are having so far is tying up to the marina berths if there is a strong cross wind.  The sides of the boat are very high and as soon as the wind hits her she is off but having nimble Debsy at the ready and a big powerful bowthruster helps us out big time.

Debsy at the helm -Yarmouth to Cowes

 

The last week has been just so good.  Well except for the night before my birthday.  I was lying in bed reading when I smelt impending doom.  I opened the door to our bathroom to see blackwater overflowing from the toilet bowl into the bathroom floor.  Yes, you guessed it the blocked holding tank was seeking revenge for having her insides sucked out some days before.  Suffice to say we cleaned up the mess, didn’t cause another geyser of misery and released the pressure that had caused the back flow build up. 

 

We had arranged to meet John and Sue over at their marina base at Lymington on the mainland for my birthday but I was determined to get this problem sorted.  So we postponed our get together with them and stayed at Yarmouth to use their pump out facility.  Well we waited all day for the pump out facility to be repaired and by the time we were told it was ready, the tide had fallen so much, there was too much fall between the facility and the pump and then the bloody thing broke down again.  So we still have a blocked head but at least we can use the other one on the boat and there is no pressure build up in ours. 

 

The upside was that while I was on the boat waiting for the pump out to be repaired, I laid back on the front deck above our cabin for the first time, basking in the sunshine having a cup of tea, dreaming now, not of having my own boat, but of sailing to far off places in the world.  The clock had turned through 40 years.  That moment, more than any other, reinforced my belief that one must take the opportunities in life that are presented, not wait, for they will pass and once that happens they are gone, and they very rarely, if ever, reappear.

Overall though, I did have a good birthday with my girls.  Deb, Nikki and Layni kept up traditions by making me a sponge, cream, jam and chocolate cake. It was very similar to the one they made last year (although this year made with a packet of brioche rolls) so I think that will, I hope anyway, be a ritual to be undertaken every 8th of April. 

 

Dad and the littlest princess

reading has become a very popular pastime 

We have met so many really nice people on their boats and learnt so much from them and when we explain our plans they are all very excited for us as most of them have sailed into the areas we propose to go to.  Were are now in Cowes Yacht Haven Marina, it is the afternoon of Good Friday and the weather is, how would you say, typically British old Chap, bloody cold and raining.  Debs and I walked into the village and bought some goodies for dinner, a nice big bucket load of Scottish mussels.  I have to say, they were the best mussels I have ever had in my life and we had heaps!!!.

favourite food for me.... 

and Nikki!

The girls are tucked up in our bed reading away to their hearts<