Sorgut (Turkey) to Nissos Leros (Greece)

Posted at 5:14 PM, Jun. 25, 2009

 Sogut where we retired to after visiting the famous lovers beach was described in the Pilot as so beautiful that it is described as “honey water bay” – however in our view it did not live up to its name. We went stern to on the jetty on the southern side of the bay and as the NW was piping in we needed two bow lines to hold us off. The jetty was pretty ramshackle but at least they did have power and water. In my absence the following morning they hit Pam up for a 50 lira fee despite the fact we had dined at their restaurant – not the usual custom where berthage is provided free if one eats ashore. Our view was that it was overall a run down place and this was reinforced the following day when with the meltemi still blowing hard we motored a few miles further down the southern coast to an area called Degirmen Buku and into English harbour - we found at the northern end of a narrow bay it was possible to anchor and tie stern to on one side or anchor and stern into the jetty on the other side. This was a delightful spot, well sheltered from the Meltemi, and left Sogut for dead. At the restaurant on the jetty side (we anchored off) the locals were growing all their own produce, scything hay by hand, restaurant setting amidst spotless grounds under (unusually) numerous liquid amber trees – overall they were presenting the place exceptionally well and deserve plenty of custom from passing yachties.  So a lazy afternoon swimming, reading and a few beers.

The following day it was back to Bodrum to check out of Turkey -  a 32 mile passage but as the wind got up and on the nose it turned into a 47 mile beat in up to 30 knots. Good sailing and as the sea state flattened with increasing wind so it was 8.3 knots upwind with one reef and a full jib. Pulled into Bodrum and anchored off in the bay around from the castle where we figured it may be a bit quieter (and it was). Had to move into rescue mode and a hail for help from a nearby gullet when we heard a fisherman crying for help a few hundred metres away as he had capsized his dinghy. He was duly rescued and returned to his fishing boat anchored off our bow. He went and retrieved his dinghy and outboard but we are not to sure about his net and other gear – his outboard may struggle in future.

                                                              The local fishman

The following morning (Saturday 20^th) we relocated and anchored off under the castle again and went ashore to go through the clearing out of Turkey process (2 hours with an agent) and use the wi-fi hotspot in the café at the entrance to the marina. Motoring back to Savarna we found Elixir anchored off our stern so there were two black silver ferns flying off Bodrum castle that morning. Had a brief chat with Ted and Jenny and their friends on board and expect them to catch us up in a few days time.

From here we departed Turkey and had a good sail, on the wind, across to Kos on the island of the same name that we visited last year. This time we anchored in the town basin – Pam and I did the clearing in thing and for once knew the process and where to go to visit the various officials (immigration/passport control, customs and then finally the Port Police). The basin was noisy, dirty and with plenty of wake as local gulets and fishing boats seem to delight in leaving at all hours of the night and they only know one speed! We attended to a few minor maintenance issues and then headed off in the early afternoon for Nisos Kalymos (to the NE of Kos) and in particular the bay called Vathi on the eastern side of the island, which is also a must see place. Had a good sail to weather and then as the wind veered it was eased sheets right to the entrance – which is a narrow gorge like entrance with room at the top for about 6 boats and fortunately we scored the last spot which was stern to at the end of the concrete jetty, with a designated swimming area adjoining the jetty.

      Savarna at the jetty in Vathi, Nissos Kalymos

Vathi was a lovely place and the narrow entrance ultimately opened out to a wide valley rising behind the small harbour, with three villages, and well cultivated with all sorts of vegetables and fruit. Bougainvilleas and oleander trees are flowering and in abundance everywhere in these islands and they make for a colourful spectacle.

              Pam relaxing on the forshore at "our" restaurant  at Pandeli,

Tuesday 23 June saw us heading off to Pandeli on the island of Leros which was recommended to us by a French banker who was tied up on the jetty at Vathi. Light winds so a motorsailing day with a lunchtime stop at a deep bay at the southern end of Leros called Xirokampos – sheltered but no great shakes. We went on to Pandeli which proved to be an absolutely delightful spot and a must see village. A castle (Castello) atops the hill that dominates the village and we walked the 15 minutes up to the main town that looks down onto either side of the bay.

                                       Pendeli with the castle above

The bay we were in had restaurant tables on the beach and it was there we partook of dinner (the best moussaka so far in Greece), beers and wine while tossing the gratis grappa surreptitiously onto the beach! Flat calm evening and a good sleep had by all after the evening medication of ouzo.  This restaurant has a very Greek name but looking  towards the shore it is immediately to the left of the restaurant named Zobra's - the waiter is clearly related to Manuel from Faulty Towers and told us he had owrked at the local mental hospital as his day job for 29 years!!

                       Street scene in Pandeli

Weather remains warm but the temps have dropped back into the 20’s from the mid 30’s we had a week back. For the kiwi’s reading this – cloudless skies, moderate winds, warm water for swimming and long days of sunshine.

Cheers for know

Keith & Pam