Biscay ticked off
Posted at 7:52 PM, Jul. 14, 2005
Wednesday 7 July saw us ready to leave Plymouth in 20-25 knt westerlies and rain. Finally the SW weather pattern forecast to go to the NW as the big high moved in off the Atlantic had caused the wind to back to the west, but still no sign of the high or the NW. So we decided to head off and sail into the highbefore the frontal system behind it arrived off Spain. At 1430 hrs after completing the mainsail repairs we headed off with the first waypoint being a few miled west of the Urshant light, 97 miles out of Plymouth. The light marks the wetern end of the designated shipping channels that control commercial shipping through the English channel.
After a few miles we found ourselves in the middle of what transpired to be a 15 mile radius naval exercise involving frigates, subs and helicopters - all in bad weather with poor visibility. We ploughed on regardless and other than being buzzed by a chopper we missed being used as target pratice.
The Biscay crossing will not be rembered for calm weather and warm days - to the contrary. Day one saw us clock up 192 miles - not bad in 25 knt headwinds and a heavy sea. Shortly before the Urshant light when it looked as though we would have to tack away to avoid ending up in the shipping lanes, the wind finally went to the NW and we could at last see that we could lay directly through to Cape Finnisterre 400 miles away.
Day 2 saw lighter winds, back to a full main and headsail but still cloudy and cold and no sign of the forecast high. Caught up with lost sleep from the first 24 hours. Navtex forecast came in with a gale warning for Biscay and Cape Finnisterre. We had planned to reach Finnisterre by sailing to the west of the shipping lanes off the Cape ( which would have seen us about 40 miles offshore) but with the gale forecast to come in from the NE we sailed further east into Biscay instead to set up for a 165 degree ( run into the Inshore Traffic Zone (where we are allowed to sail) that would see us about 20 miles off the Cape so we could then run in under the lee of the land and hopefully calmer waters and less pressure. By the end of day 2 with the weather starting to deteroiate we shortened sail to eventually by 2200 hrs end up with a fully reefed main and the storm jib set up on the inner forestay. Was I glad that we had insisted on a cutter rig set up ( only the second Hanse 531 to do so).
Over the next 12 hours we clocked up 118 miles in a heavy following sea and 40 kntb winds and by 1000 hrs on Saturday 10th we finnally had the Cape in our sights about 15 miles off to port. After hand steering the boat in under the Cape we did reach calmer waters and then the wind pretty much died on us so we had to motor sail to Bayona in NW Spain - in beautiful sunshine as well.
Savarna has covered over a 1000 miles at this stage and we have had a good variety of sailing - we are thrilled with the way she performs - Pam had no seasickness pills during the crossing and credits that to the sea-kindly motion of the boat. Basically she has had a good work out in all conditions and stands up well. Pam said she looked behind us at one stage early Saturday morning and the waves were so big she never looked astern again. The sailing angle made for a very fast, express train ride that was of course a very noisy but exhilarating ride.
By late Saturday afternoon we were anchored among some lovely islands about 5 miles out of Bayona - very busy and much like Motuhie on a summer Sunday afternoon. One attraction was that many of the females on surounding boats were topless so there was much debate about which boat we should anchor next to!!
Settled into a few beers and wine, vowed not to to Biscay again ( it lived up to its reputation as a tough passage) and also decided that sailing in England is only for the foolish.
Undoubtedly sailing in the west country is beautiful when the weather is fine and it is warm - however this appears to be a rare occurrence. The cost of sailing in England is not matched by the facilities and the 18 marinas owned by MDL are good ones to keep clear of in our view.The staff in there head office did not even know the international access code when we wanted to send a fax back to NZ. Health and safety laws are also affecting sailing and we were told that it is no longer for a rigger to go up a mast in the Solent area - they must use a crane instead. Imagine what that does to cost!! Oń the other hand the trade people that we needed to deal with were very competent and the Hanse guys in the UK fanastic.