Otok Iz to Sukosan
Posted at 8:32 PM, Jun. 27, 2007
On Otok Iz we found a delightful anchorage at the south eastern end in an uninhabitated bay partially protected from the south by a small island. We anchored alongside a few other boats but with no swinging room on anchor so took a line ashore to hold us as did the other boats. Had some South Africans on a charter boat next door who firstly admired Savarna and secondly got the news from us of the All Blacks/Springboks test a few days earlier. One of the guys had visited NZ many times as a director of Caltex.
Fairly typical coastal view - no sandy beaches here!
Early morning awoke to yet another brilliant day but with quite a bit of wind developing from the south which contrasted with the NW forecast. One by one the boats peeled off out of the bay leaving us last to leave. Had a good sail on the wind across to Otok Ugliana and stopped in a sheltered bay at the NW end along with quite a few other boats for the usual swim and lunch. An Austrian guy from a nearby yacht swam over to see where we were from and to compliment us on the boat. We have been suprised by the number of Austrian yachts around (which we have not seen elsewhere) as somehow we do not associate Austria with sailing - but as it does border Croatia it is to be expected.
Savarna peacefully at anchor
Late afternoon rounded the northern end of Otok Ugliano and had a good 10 mile sail on the wind in up to 25 knots into Sukosan with Alice on the handle bars most of the way! Great way to finish up the current 2 months sailing.
Marina Dalmacija is the biggest marina complex in Croatia and it is huge - about 1400 boats but the fairways and isles are so big that it is about a 3 kilometre walk from one side to the other. The place has its own beach, several restaurants and bars around its perimeter and also several good facilities blocks. A pretty impressive operation. Two haul out yards and at least 4 travel lifts of 30 and 50 ton capacities.
We have been very well looked after by Velimir Mestrovic of Royal Yachts who are the Hanse agents in Croatia. He has organised us space on one of their berths on a pier very near his office. They also look attend to all maintenance required, run the motor, air and clean the boat etc. A pretty slick operation overall and no doubt facilitated by them also running some charter boats of their own/
Nicki and Richard departed yesterday afternoon (Tuesday 26 June) for Split and then on to Rome after a dream two week run of perfect weather, temps up to 42 on one day but pretty hot for the whole two weeks.
Today we rented a car and drove into the nearby city of Zadar for a look around. Again an impressive walled old town but Zadar was one of the cities most bombed in the Balkans war and a lot of restoration being undertaken and still much to do. We had a beer with Valimir tonight and a bit of a discussion about the war and clearly the country is still building economically and the basis for foreign exchange earnings is tourism. But it is a relatively hard place to get to - ferries from Italy, an expensive local airline, no extensive rail network, buses average and roads being built flat out.
A daily view!
Tonight Pam and I drove Alice to Zadar airport where she flies Grenada in Spain to meet up with a friend (via London) before returning to the boat at some stage. So for us it is clean up time, dropping heaps of gear to the very good laundry - and still to retrieve the dinghy which got wedged under the pontoon during last night on an incoming tide. It has been virtually 100% summerged all day and I have been waiting for the big bang as it explodes but with an outgoing tide now we may salvage it yet - all I can say is good on Zodiac they obviously make strong dinghies. Can now report safely salvaged and no damage.
Off now to dinner in the nearby town of Sukosan and then fly back to the NZ winter tomorrow afternoon.
So signing off until September - but with very fond memories of Croatia - a fantastic place to sail and lovely people in our experiences. The other interesting fact is that Sukosan is 44 degrees north and yet wonderful continuous good weather and very warm water - not bad for a place that is further north than Dunedin is south. And it doesn't snow here in winter!
John and Sue if you read this have just seen you have arrived in Dubrovnik so we have missed you guys by a few days - enjoy Croatia (I am sure Sue will after reading her blog entry) and all the best for the rest of 2007 and the ARC - will follow your blog with interest and who knows we may get that beer together one day!!
Cheers
Keith