Hvar to Rozognica
Posted at 4:03 PM, Jun. 10, 2007
Having arrived in the town of Hvar on Otok Hvar late afternoon Friday 1 June we anchored in the middle of the harbour, texted Sue Warren that we had arrived, and then had a beer while watching the fun as various boats arrived to position themselves on the town quay (which was really rock and roll territory with almost spreader to spreader rolls and impossible to sleep). Bit of rain fell and Sue arrived for an aperitif on board before heading out to a wonderful dinner at a quayside restaurant. The meal was first rate - we had been warned that fish meals were expensive in Croatia and this was no exception. Hvar is one of the party towns in Croatia and despite looking no luck and we concluded that it is still too early in the season.
The town is dominated by a huge citadel (see photo) and the piazza is the largest in Croatia with Gothic and Renaissance palaces on either side. A lovely town, well preserved and no cars allowed in the old town.
Looking from Savarna across to the imposing Citadel
Weather still pretty average, not overly warm although sea temperatures now around 21-22 but cool in the evenings. Saturday 2 June saw us retain our relatively comfortable position in the harbour and not get tempted to move onto the quay for rock and roll. Looked around the town in the morning and in the afternoon Sue drove us pretty much around the island finally stopping for a swim and then a few drinks on her balcony in the town of Stari Grad about 15 kks from Hvar where she lives.
Alice and Sue on the steps to Sue's apartment
Up anchored Sunday 3 June with a far better weather outlook and motored over to the nearby Pakleni islands for a look around and then headed around to Stari Grad but first stopping for a few hours at Uvala Vira on the north coast for lunch and a swim. Finally got into Stari Grad onto the town quay early evening and Sue joined us for an on board dinner of chilli prawns and a few local wines. We enjoyed Stari Grad, it is a lovely old town and not as fast paced as Hvar. We provisioned and watered up again the next morning and then spent the day anchored in a peaceful bay called Luka Tiha within the large bay where Stari Grad is at the head of. Late afternoon had a lovely sail on the wind across to the next island of Brac about 8 miles away.
North coast of Otok Hvar looking Otok Brac
Brac is the third largest island in the Adriatic (out of about 1200) and we anchored on the south side in Uvala Osibova - a delightful bay surrounded with a number of holiday homes. Very deep and as we were the only boat there we took the middle of the bay ( and only room for maybe two more boats) but when swinging we were often only 20 metres from the shore. Takes a bit of getting used to when the shores are all rock and deep straight off the land.
Brac is among many of the islands that have over the centuries quarried a white stone that has been used in the construction of various palaces and cathedrals around Europe and notably part of the White House in Washington. The following day after a late start we had a good sail right through to Split only about 10 miles in from Brac. Ever since we had sailed up to Brindisi I had been uneasy about the motor as Dean will recall and by the time we got to Brac I had decided that we must have picked up some bad diesel in Siracusa and this had partially blocked the injectors. Got into the Split on Tuesday night 5th June and anchored off before going into the hugely overpriced marina the next morning. Was fortunate in finding some good engineers on the marina who after various tests confirmed that my diagnosis was correct. That in turn necessitated getting new nozzles getting sent down from the Yanmar agents at Pula in the north of Croatia – then found out Thursday was a public holiday and they would not arrive until Friday morning. Anyway it all happened according to schedule and by Friday late morning we were ready to go and I was about EUR800 worse off. So we had an enforced couple of days at Split but it proved to be a delightful place – the old town is delightful and dominated by Diocletian’s palace ( a Roman Emperor) in about 300AD – much of the palace still stands today and the old town is within the palace and is right on the waterfront which has also been carefully refurbished over the last year. A vibrant place.
The Split waterfront with the cathedral in Diocletians Palace prominent
A couple of Australian boats in the marina so a late night on Savarna and a few sore heads the next morning worked off with a swim at one of the local nearby beaches. Alice got a couple of dates/tours with local lads and saw more of the night life than Pam or I. Had a delightful dinner ashore one night at Serims in the street of the same name just to the north of the old town. Weather by this time has improved significantly at long last – warm days moderate breezes but late afternoon thunderstorms and lightening along the coast.
Leaving Split we sailed about 14 miles up the coast to Trogir which was highly recommended to us. Anchored off in a nearby bay for the night and then anchored off the town this morning. Trogir is on an island and there are still many medieval houses, narrow streets and alleyways and of course numerous churches.
A typical street in Trogir
Later we had a great beat in about a 15 knot westerly up to the town of Rogoznica (sounds like Rogers knickers) where we are know anchored.
Late afternoon sun on Rogoznica waterfront
One good thing we are finding is that most people speak very good english which has been something of a surprise although as we go further north we are told that will change. I think the good summer weather has finally arrived at last.
Naturally very pleased with the Team NZ win in the LV and we are planning to go across Valencia on 25 June as guests on one of the Alinghi supporter motor yachts to see what Team NZ can conjure up in the America’s Cup regatta itself.
Nicki and Richard join us next Tuesday in Split for about 10 days when they fly in from Barcelona.
That’s it for now.
Cheers
Keith