Sicily to Malta
Posted at 12:10 PM, Nov. 27, 2006
We have now had several days in Malta and enjoying it immensely. It is a place with a huge history and fascinating culture. The weather has been fantastic with beautiful clear skies, warm days and mild nights. But then with a winter average temperature of 17 C you would expect it to be pretty mild at this time of the year.
The final passage for the season was about 60 miles from the south eastern end of Sicily where we had overnighted at the small fishing port of Marzamemi. We got away to a dawn start as we were hopeful of getting across to Malta before the predicted frontal system came across. Rounded Capo Pasereo after passing very extensive fish farms. Interestingly it is clearly possible to anchor in good sheltered waters either side of the cape and in the event of an overnight wind shift only a short and hazard free passage to the other side. A lot better than it looks on the chart. After rounding the cape the forecast SSW sprung up quietly so got all the sail up and quickly it developed into a lovely tight reach with the wind strength eventually 20 knots so we roared into Malta at 9 knots plus on a beautiful clear day at just on 1500 hrs. So about a 6 hour passage for the 50 miles after rounding the cape.
The entrance to Malta is rigidly controlled as it is narrow with numerous shipping movements so one has to call up Valletta Port Authority about 10 miles out and then again off the breakwater to seek permission to enter the harbour. There are two harbours, Grand Harbour on the southern side of Valletta and Marsamxett Harbour on the northern side. Several cruise ships coming and going. We have wintered Savarna at Grand Harbour marina which is run by Camper & Nicholson. Pretty casual place, virtually full up, several live aboards staying over for the winter and the big power boats on A pontoon where we are. We hold our own in the yachting department apart from the Maltese Falcon whose permanent berth is alongside A pontoon whereas we are stern to on the other side. It will be a great sight to see her close up when we return to Malta – an incredible boat.
Looking across to Valletta from the stern of Savarna
After arrival it was then the job to locate a number of tradesmen to get jobs organised on the boat over the winter. We needed an electrician, engineer, boat builder, electronics (the Simrad wind gear had not worked since Rome so we had to hand steer the boat when sailing), canvas worker and sail loft. Fortunately we met up with a very capable guy on the first day – James Xuereb (mobile +356 9985 3251) who while an electrician seems to be able to turn his hand to most jobs. We have retained him as our agent to manage the boat while we are away – the deal in Malta requires an agent as some of the trade places (such as Simrad) will only deal with agents and not the Capitaine or owner. Malta is a place where it is who you know that counts!
Water taxi coming to collect us
We did have time to catch a water ferry across to Valletta and look around. The history is amazing and while the early settlements date back to 5000 BC and referred to as the temple building period it is the Knights of St John 250 year rule from around 1540 AD that Malta derives a lot of history. The Knights were originally based on the island of Rhodes but were forcibly removed by the Turks and relocated to Malta. They were noblemen from Europe from the most important families of Europe and were charged with protecting the Catholic faith and Europe from the invading forces of the Ottoman Turks. They were originally based at Fort Angelo immediately adjacent to the Grand Harbour marina and built Valletta including the incredibly impressive St John’s Co-Cathedral completed in 1577. They originally had a mission associated with helping the sick and wounded and it is from here that the St John’s ambulance service originated and adopted the Maltese red cross. The Knights still today have a grand master based in Malta. The most famous event in this period was the siege of 1565 which features strongly in Maltese history. The Knights at Valletta resisted an attack from a 40,000 thousand force of Turks and after this they turned Valletta into a fortress city.
The Cathedral is extraordinary and the floor is made up of marble tomb slabs with the name of the Knight, his family crest, noble deeds for which he is remembered, all inlaid in marble and in colour. And there are hundreds of them! The Oratory houses the largest and only signed painting done by Michelangelo, the very impressive “Beheading of St John the Baptist.” Also in the Oratory is the smaller work by Michelangelo “St Jerome.”
Malta is in the middle of the Mediterranean and strategically of major importance. Napoleon took over Malta from the Knights and ransacked many of the numerous monuments and churches to pay for his army. The British came along and seized control and held it until Malta became the first commonwealth state to gain independence. It is today an island some 18 miles long, 5 miles wide and a population of around 400,000. The Maltese language was described to us as 80% Arabic and the rest a reflection of occupying nations over the last 500 years. There are a couple of smaller islands to the north west of which Gozo is the largest and looks like an attractive island to cruise around.
The second major event the seems to have influenced Malta’s more recent history was its strategic importance during the second world war. It was bombed the day after Italy declared war and in one week alone they had 500 bombing missions over the island. We visited the War Museum at Fort Elmo which proudly sits at the headland overlooking both harbour entrances. Again an amazing place and from the photographs Valletta seems to have been well reduced to ruins. It was a major base for both the British navy and later the American navy. It was also a big submarine port and at the northern and of the breakwater protecting the entrance there is a small gap. I enquired if we could take Savarna through the gap and was told probably not - it turned out to originally have a steel “door” over the gap through which submarines could exit without being seen.
We are now homeward bound having spent a few days “winterising” Savarna including a full hull and deck polish so she is looking like brand new! Once the various jobs have been completed that James is looking after for us we will be right up to scratch again as we slowly personalise the boat to our own requirements and get ready for the Atlantic crossing.
We plan to return in April and resume the eastwards journey and look forward to having various family and friends join us next summer.
Cheers
Keith