Isola Capri
Posted at 3:27 PM, Nov. 10, 2006
We ended up staying Sunday (5th November) and Monday the 6th in the marina at Capri. Had very heavy rain one night but it cleared early morning and no wind accompanying it so pretty quiet. We were only one of two visiting yachts in the marina although the ferries from various ports on the mainland start arriving at about 0700 hrs and finish at around 2000 hrs. Tourism is still strong even at this time of the year. Fortunately the place was coping easily and facilities were not overloaded. I would not want to be here in July or August when the place would be packed.. Weather still cool but fine sunny and clear days with little wind.
Monday we spent during the tourist thing. Got the local bus up to Anacapri the second town on the island on a plateau about 800 ft straight up with the small bus scrapping against the trees as the driver navigated impossibly narrow winding roads that were sheer to the sea. From Anacapri we caught an old single seater chairlift that took us to the highest point on the island – Monte Solaro at 589 metres. The views were amazing with the southern side of Monte Solaro dropping straight to the ocean. Visited the old church there – St Michaels – which was built about 1716, has been fully restored with the floor consisting of 2500 hand painted mosaic tiles depicted “Adam and Eve” and still now in pristine condition. Also visited the house that Dr.Axel Munthe (Swedish) built in the late 1890’s and wrote the apparently famous book, published on 50 languages titled “ The Building of San Michele.” The house is perched high on the cliff tops overlooking the town of Capri and the harbour. Quite a spectacular setting and beautifully kept extensive gardens. Now owned by the Swedish Government.
View of Isola Capri towards mainland from Monte Solaro
Entertained ourselves with the locals at a Trattoria in Anacapri and then caught the bus back to the boat for a siesta! Later got the funicular up to the town of Capri, had a beer in the main square and then went back down to the port to a recommended fish restaurant. Pam had the salt baked fish which when it arrived was covered in a huge mound of salt. Pam rated it as one of the best 5 meals she has had on our travels over the last few years.
Capri is written up as the jewel of the Gulf of Naples and while Ischia is the pretender it comes nowhere close in our opinion. Capri is beautifully presented, very stylish and at this time of the year it was great to visit. All the major brand shops are present plus plenty more, beautiful narrow streets (no car access but use golf buggies to get around to hotels etc), terraced gardens down to the sea, lemon trees everywhere, a vitality and friendliness among the people (being from NZ/Australia helps a lot) and not over the top price wise.
Pam on the "main street"
View of marina from Axel Munthe's residence
Tuesday 7th again dawned fine and clear and we motor sailed over to the Amalfi coast I (after the credit card had come out up in Capri before departure) stopping off for a few hours at Positano – the so called gem of the Amalfi coast but I would have to say we were disappointed. Quite quiet there as one would expect at this time but still totally tourist orientated. With a good forecast we debated about staying there anchored off for the night but a very exposed bay to anything with a hint of southerly in it so we decided to move a few miles further along the coast to the town of Amalfi itself. Got a spot on the public wharf (free) amongst the local fishing boats yet again. We are the only yacht here! Have had a wander around the town and it leaves Positano for dead in our view. Much less tourist focused and a more interesting town to walk around and explore. The coast is spectacular with villages built onto the sheer rock faces and roads built in impossible places. Overall quite a stunning vista.
Cheers
Keith