Ibiza Cruising
Posted at 10:42 AM, Jun. 10, 2006
It is now Friday morning 9th June and we pulled into Palma on Mallorca ( or Puerto de Palma de Mallorca) yesterday afternoon after the 65 mile sail across from Ibiza. Yesterday was a day of some note as it was one year since Savarna was launched in Griefswald, Germany. Consequently it was a dinner out at a local restaurant in the old town that is just delightful. Bustling, busy, more super yachts than you can count, architecturally pleasing (all the shutters on all the buildings are painted green), cobbled alleyways, wide streets and palm trees, fountains and lots of people out. After dinner we stumbled across the most extraordinary bar, and had a Savarna birthday cocktail there. This place defies an accountants description so having since found a write up in the Lonely Planet Guide the best I can do is to quote Abaco - behind a set of ancient timber doors, is the bar of your wildest dreams (with prices from your darkest nightmares). Inside, a Malllorcan patio and candlelit courtyard are crammed with elaborate floral arrangements, cascading towers of fresh fruit and bizarre artwork, and bow tied waiters who fulfill your wishes while classical music soothes your ears.
We enjoyed Ibiza and have been fortunate with the weather. Fine every day, clear sunny skies, temps in the high 20s and water temperature of around 24 25, SE or E winds of 10-15 knots/ What more could you want. The last blog had us recovering from a very rolling night in San Miguel. From there we had a quiet sail of about 5/6 miles north to Cala Portinatx. We had run out of gas and had no petrol for the outboard - neither of which was available in Portinaxt. This was a very attractive cala and as it turned out would have been a far better overnight option than San Miguel. We anchored off, in one of three arms of the bay in front of the inevitable hotels, with colourful umbrellas and beach chairs lined up on the beach. A lovely beach though. From Portinaxt we motor sailed around the top of Ibiza island, doing the circumnavigation clockwise, admiring the very rugged coastline, with houses perched in spectacular settings on cliff tops until we arrived at Cala del Lleo which looked like a good quiet anchorage for the night. Most of us went ashore to explore the very attractive area. Still no gas but just as well for a genset, electric frypan and BBQ. It is not possible to get gas bottles as we know them in NZ filled, and everyone uses the small blue camping gaz bottles but what we have found is that the resort areas are just that and several kilometers away from towns which are inland so getting gas and petrol has so far eluded us.
The following day Monday 5th saw us again motor sailing down the east coast of Ibiza to Puerto de Sta Eulalia. There is an excellent marina here but we were able to anchor off the beach in calm conditions, near the marina entrance, and dinghy ashore. Finally got some petrol and gas so the outboard motor after one year was finally commissioned and we got some gas! Eulalia while a tourist location proved to be a lovely town and we enjoyed lunch in a local restaurant in the back streets so got the real deal rather than the waterfront restaurants which cater very much for the English tourist.
Late afternoon we up anchored and headed further south to Ibiza (founded in the 6th century BC by the Carthaginians) pulling into the spectacular harbour dominated by the massive Citadel parts of which date back to the 13th century, in the early evening (accompanied by a 90 ft Wally yacht awesome) Had dinner on the boat in Marina Botafoch (very expensive marina at 104 euro a night) and then got the ferry across the harbour to the old town. Spent a few hours exploring the town, walked up, around and through the Citadel.. The place was very busy and restaurants still doing a big trade at midnight. As the reputed nightclub capital of Europe we eventually found the hottest place in town but with an entrance fee of 40 euro we decided it was not for us and entertained ourselves watching the arrival procession.
The imposing Citadel at Ibiza town
Late morning Tuesday 6th we pulled out for a 7 mile sail south to the small island of Espalmador. Had a good sail and anchored off the island in a large beautiful bay with about 20 other boats. Went ashore, swam off the beach, walked the beach had a BBQ dinner onboard and stayed the night. The island is being maintained as a nature reserve so basically uninhabited.
Wednesday 7th we motored further south Cala Sahona on the western side of Formentera the southern most island in the Balearic group. The water was a stunning blue and very clear I think as good as anything we have ever seen. Just another fine sunny warm day!
The torquoise waters at Cala Sahona
Late afternoon we up anchored and headed north with the genaker up for a while for a 20 odd mile run to Cala Llonga on the east coast of Ibiza and a good stepping off point for the 65 mile passage north to Mallorca. The wind veered north during the evening and by 0330 hrs we were rolling and crashing around so Pam and I up anchored and motored across to the marina at Puerto de Sta Eulalia thinking we could tie up on the visitors pontoon and then make an early start for Palma. The security guard there wanted to charge us 61 euro for that privilege so at 0530 hrs we were off the passage to Palma. Motored for about 3hours until the breeze filled in and then it was close hauled on the wind for another 3 hours, then another bout of motoring until a 20 knot southerly sprung up from nowhere and we had a fast reach in for the last 15 miles. Thats all for now - time to go and explore Palma some more.
Cheers
Keith