Middle Watch Musings
• Jul. 8, 2007 - The "Wet Coast"
• Jul. 8, 2007 - Rounding Cape Caution - "The Horn"
• Jul. 8, 2007 - The Central Coast
Once again we have covered a little ground since our last opportunity to post an update. After leaving Echo Bay we motored up to Shawl Bay and spent two fine days relaxing on the docks. We enjoyed the company of several other sailboats all heading north and had a good time at "Happy Hour" on the dock.
Water, despite the abundance of rain, is at a premium here. Most of the marinas have water but it is a dark brown from the iron/cedar staining as it runs down the hillsides. We heard the best water locally was at Kwatsi bay so off we went. Kwatsi Bay is surrounded by waterfalls and filters the runoff so it is crystal clear. It is run by a couple school teachers and they do a great job. They tucked us in the back, the last boat they could fit, for the night. We felt like "The Little Boat That Could" lying amongst all the big American power boats. It was a pleasure listening to them whine about fuel prices at the potluck dinner the owners organized that evening. We filled the water tanks and took off the next day for Sullivan Bay.
Sullivan Bay was a disapointment. Moorage was very expensive and the place was not as friendly as the others we had visited in the Broughtons. They even charged me $10 to dispose of the old oil despite the fact that I bought the new oil from them. It is popular because it has fuel and an "International" airport for float planes. We spent one night on the empty docks to do an oil change and fuel and left early for Blunden Harbour.
During our cruise up the coast we have been checking in on the Great Northern Boaters Net, run for Ham Boaters by Darlene (KL0YC) in Alaska and Barbara (VE7KLU) in Sidney every morning starting at 0730 Pacific Time. We have been lsitening to many other boats check in and Blunden was our first time meeting one of the boats. Randy and Sharon on BLUE HERON (N7WJ) were anchored in Blunden as was Jean in PO-TOLO (KA7BIW). Randy invited us for a visit and we enjoyed a great cobbler in their immaculate boat.....thanks.
From Blunden we headed north intending to stop at Allison harbour but the weather was good for rounding Cape Caution so we continued around to Millbrook Cove in Smith Sound. We were the only ones in the quiet cove and enjoyed the solitude while we sat there in the pouring rain. The following day, with the promise of fair weather we set off for Pruth Bay on Calvert Island but once around the corner on the open ocean the winds came up to about 25 knots and the seas quickly built. Fortunately we were running with it but it was a wild sail with an unhappy wife. Once tucked in behind Calvert the sea settled down and we safely dropped the hook in Pruth to wait out the impending gale. During our wet stay there we spent some time exploring West Beach, one of my favourite wilderness places in the world.
After two days of 25+ knot winds things settled down and we sailed north again, bound for Namu. Namu is another of the BC ghost towns with a permanent population of 4. There are lots of deteriorating buildings left over from the fishing processing plant and community that used to be there but most are out of bounds for safety reasons. The locals were very friendly but a little on the odd side. Just our type!
From Namu we motored north to Bella Bella. We got the sails up for a couple of hours but it was against wind and tide so motoring was the order of the day. Bella Bella is a crossroads for all Boats heading north and south. With their large reasonably priced grocery store and government liquor store it is popular with cruisers, fishermen and all other boaters. We filled our larder and motored across to Shearwater to spend a couple nights on the "Yachtie" docks there. After one night on the main dock, the women filling in for the missing dockmaster was overwhelmed by the number of boats coming and offered to let us stay on the commercial wharf for half price. We jumped at the chance to save money and moved over for a night with the fishing boats. (The docks were only 50 yards apart) While there we met some more Ham Boaters, Dave and Marcia on JUNIATA heading for Mexico and Lowell and Sue on GHOST RIDER cruising the coast. Both couples were very friendly and we had a great chat on the dock.
Dave gave me many tips to improve my unproductive fishing techniques so we left Shearwater bound for Ocean Falls trying them out. No joy! We still didn't catch a thing. We did however have a great feed of crab. Not because my crabbing improved but because some kind gent on the docks gave us a bunch. We had crab omelets for breakfast, crab cold plates for lunch and crabcakes and crab legs for dinner. We have had enough crab for a day or two.
So here we are in Ocean Falls. Once a city of 35,000 now a village of 50, it is another of my favourite spots. As soon as we stepped off the boat we saw three bear hanging around the lodge. Nancy, Bear Woman, is happy to have finally seen bear. We had a quick walk around the village but saved the best for tomorrow. The great docks, neat little "Shack", free internet and great prices have convinced us that we will be here two days at a minimum.
Cheers,
Gary
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• Jun. 26, 2007 - Mazmalilaculla
• Jun. 26, 2007 - Deep Bay race start
• Jun. 26, 2007 - Telegraph Cove
• Jun. 26, 2007 - In The Wilderness
We have made quite a bit of ground since our last blog entry. We spent a few days in Courtenay relaxing and filling the boat with food before setting off into Desolation Sound. From Courtenay we sailed all the way to Squirrel Cove with a southerly pushing us. Squirrel Cove is a destination for power boaters because it is a great sheltered anchorage with a store and restaurant close by. While we were there, there were about a dozen boats, most of them power boats. We saw one large power boat (about 45 feet) with four large dogs on it (two retrievers,a shepherd and a newfie). The owner was roaring around the cove in his dinghy and didn't take the dogs ashore even once while we were there. When we rowed by the dogs looked very frustrated.
From Squirrel Cove we sailed up around the north end of Cortes Island and down to Gorge Harbour. It was another great sail with the wind in our favour all the way.....unbelievable.
Gorge Harbour has a great restaurant and the cell phone even worked after a walk up the hill away from the harbour.
After two days in Gorge we sailed across to Campbell River to watch the Van-Isle 360 finish and to go through Seymour Narrows with them the following day. Of course Discovery Marina had tons of room and great facilities.
Early on the 19th (0600) we slipped from Campbell River and powered up to the Narrows with the racing fleet. The race leg started in Deep Bay and we watched a wonderful spinnaker start and got some great pictures. They raced off ahead of us as we put up our little kite and trailed along at a respectful 6.5 knots. We spent that night in Port Neville at Lorna's dock. She wasn't there but Dave came over from the other side of the harbour and gave us a tour. The old post office is very interesting. Next time we'll send ourselves some mail there.
From Port Neville we sailed out Johnstone Strait, again with following winds, and watched the Van-Isle racers coming up behind us. The wind built to 25 knots and we were double reefed with a tiny jib with our boat doing 8 knots. Icon went by us like we were stopped and went on to set a record for that leg (Telegraph Cove) of the race. Spectacular!
We overnighted in Growler Cove. It was very well protected and quiet. We were the only boat there. From Growler we sailed on to Telegraph and met our parents to celebrate Nancy's 50th birthday. Dinner at the only restaurant was great. We were the only sailboat in the cove although there were several trailerable fish boats on the docks.
From Telegraph we motored up to Port McNeil to resupply and get ready for the next leg out of civilization. McNeil is a great stop, fairly priced and convenient. We liked it.
While in McNeil we took the ferry to Sointula and spent a few hours walking around the town and visiting their museum. Lunch at the bakery was great.
We sailed from McNeil to Mamalilaculla to visit the site of the famous potlatch. When we got there the anchorage had a boat in it and there was limited room for us so we moved to Pearl Passage and spent a safe comfortable night there. The next morning we went back and went ashore only to discover that the place was infested with garter snakes. This would not normally be a problem except for Nancy's phobia so she stayed on the beach while I looked around. I could have spent more time there.
From Mamalilaculla we motored on to Echo Bay where we found this intenet connection and where we now are. We caught a sole for dinner and enjoyed a quiet night on the dock enteratined by Carol "The Bead Lady" and her husband Gerry. Good fun.
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• Jun. 9, 2007 - Aground!
• Jun. 9, 2007 - A Short Break
We are now secured alongside in Comox while we stay at our condo in Courtenay. This is a short break while Nancy zips back to Victoria to do some banking and get our car. We intend to leave our car here while we head north so that when we get back to the mid-island in August we have some transportation available.
Our last few days in Vancouver were very nice. Burrard Yacht Club was a very nice place to stay and we enjoyed it most of all the clubs we stayed at. We sailed from Vancouver to Bowen Island where we tied up at a relative's dock for a quick visit. Bowen is a wonderful spot. Wouldn't it be nice to have a cottage on a small island that is a city bus ride from downtown Vancouver. I envy those folks.
From Bowen we sailed up into Howe Sound a short way and watched the mad rush of boats heading back to Vancouver on Sunday afternoon. Several Yacht Clubs have outstations on Gambier Island, a short run from Vancouver, and they are well used on a sunny weekend. We anchored in Pumper Cove for the night (for obvious reasons) and set sail the next day for Secret Cove. After a nice down wind run at 6 knots with just a small jib we anchored in the south bay of Secret Cove to let the first of a series of lows go by. Getting into the bay was interesting as the passage is only about 30 feet wide and 8 feet deep at a zero tide and we had almost a zero tide. The next day we stopped for an hour at the Secret Cove Marina and bought some groceries and had showers. The owner was very accomodating. Nice spot.
From Secret Cove we sailed across to Lasqueti Island. We explored Jedediah Park and saw a power boat high and dry on a rock there. It didn't look like there was any damage but I'll bet the owner was miserable. We continued up to False Bay and anchored there despite warnings that it would be rough in a NW wind. Well we got the NW wind and it was. The boat was bouncing around like it was at sea. Fortunately the Anchor (CQR) and 120 feet of chain did their job and we were fine. Once the weathered cleared we rowed over to the Lasqueti Pub for a beer and watched the first period of the Stanley Cup final. Congrats Anaheim. The locals were cheering for them because the team has more Canadians than the Senators. The Niedermayer brothers are considered "locals"
After two days at False Bay we had a nice sail to Comox Harbour where we met up with our friends Rhonda and Alan Reese who are also members of the Canadian Focres Sailing Association where we keep our boat. It was a nice surprise and we had a nice visit with them. After that we quickly moved into the condo for a bath. On Friday Cam came up and picked up Nancy and drove her home to get the work done.
Phase one is complete. Next we will be heading into Desolation for some prawns and then through the mighty Seymour Narrows.
Stay tuned.
Gary
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• May. 27, 2007 - The First Couple Weeks
It has been almost two weeks since we departed. We are settling in to life onboard PLUMPER nicely.
Our trip started with a weekend at Bedwell Harbour enjoying the Royal Victoria Yacht Club Commodore's Cruise. Although the weather was not great it was good fun and a great start to our summer adventure. From there we wandered over to Ganges on Saltspring Island for a shower and to do some laundry. Of course the night at the docks was expensive, something we hope to avoid most of the time. From Ganges we moved around to Long Harbour, RVYC's outstation and enjoyed two quiet days on that dock. We then sailed up to Connover Cove and found a spot on the park dock and spent a quiet night there with several other boats. It is a nice park although very busy in the summer. The next day we sailed intending to get to Silva Bay and wait for nice weather to cross the Straits of Georgia. Once we exited Porlier Pass the Strait was quite mellow and we crossed over that same day. We arrived in Vancouver on Friday the 25th of May and got a reciprocal mooring at the Vancouver Rowing Club. It was right downtown and terrific. We spent the Saturday running around getting "stuff" and relaxing. Today, Sunday, we moved around to False Creek for a couple nights at the False Creek Yacht Club docks. On the way we stopped at Granville Island for a coffee and some fresh food for dinner. Very nice except some guy in a power boat didn't allow for the current and bumped into us on the dock. No damage....just annoying.
Gary
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• May. 6, 2007 - The Launch
Well that chore is over. PLUMPER has a clean bottom, waxed sides, new zincs and is back in the chuck. I have spent the last couple days doing the little things. I got the light in the binnacle working properly. Nancy went up the mast today and changed the steaming light bulb. I installed all new latches on the cockpit hatches and serviced the hinges. I checked all the through hulls. We have been hauling mountains of gear down to the boat and stowing it all away. I made a complete inventory of spares and put it with the inventory of charts.
We have been sleeping on her the past couple nights. Kinda nice. It makes me want to leave right now. Patience. Less than two weeks until we sail. We'll head off to the Commodore's Cruise on the 18th and just keep going......
Yahoo!
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• Apr. 26, 2007 - The Work
The real challenge of boat ownership comes when it is hauled out for its annual bit of husbandry. It is then that you really realize that the fun in a boat is inversely proportional to its size.
I have the mighty PLUMPER out of the water right now for a scrub, wax and coat of anti-fouling. Minor jobs really but still not the part of yachting that people who yearn for the briny deep are familiar with. The good news is my previous anti-fouling paint has done its job very well. A quick power wash got the slime off and the bottom looks quite good. The hull above the waterline was quite dirty and had some spots where the fenders had left gooey stuff and big rub marks but those all came off with a little elbow grease and she now looks half her age. (Is that why they refer to boats in the feminine? Because they look younger with a little paint and putty?)
I attacked the screw with a wire brush and razor blade and it looks brand new.
Less than a month now 'til our anticipated move aboard and departure. We have sublet our berth and are now committed to living aboard for the next few months.
As part of our "sail-training" program, we spent the last couple weekends away. Both turned out to be good learning experiences.
The first weekend, Easter, was a pleasant sail into the Gulf Islands but a challenging beat back to Victoria in a south east gale. We took down the jib, double reefed the main and motor-sailed across the Victoria waterfront with the wind on the nose gusting to 40 knots. PLUMPER was comfortable and felt strong and solid while working upwind. Although the swell was only about a meter and a half, little came aboard and once over the noise we were quite happy onboard.
The second was a beat home from Sooke with the 15 knot wind against a 6 knot tide resulting in steep and breaking seas. PLUMPER once again showed her good breeding and handled beautifully under all plain sail. Although the occasional spray came aboard and she did a little hobby horsing, she cruised through Race Passage with aplomb.
We both have a little more confidence in the old girl after those two exciting days at sea.
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• Mar. 27, 2007 - The Helpful
Today was a great day. I was very concerned about the expense of the vast number charts needed for the trip north. I already have electronic charts and a laptop but I hesitate to put all my faith in anything that involves electricity, computers and Microsoft.
I was once briefing a senior soldier on digital maps and mapping systems and I showed him a palm pilot like device with topographic maps on it. He asked me what happened if it got shot by a piece of shrapnel or something. I told him it would be ruined. He said "That is the difference, if it was a paper map you would still have a map with a hole in it."
In keeping with that philosophy I have been searching for the paper charts of the north coast and so I put an ad in our club newsletter. I immediately got several calls from folks offering up entire sets of charts. How nice is that? I am now happily equipped with all the paper charts I need and electronic backups.
Life is good.
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• Mar. 22, 2007 - Wash Day
• Mar. 22, 2007 - The Plan
I do have a plan. It is quite loose and allows for lots of freedom to manouevre. I retire from the Navy 3 April. We will spend the following weekend on a club cruise. Once we return our preparations will begin in earnest. We hope to have our boat hauled in mid April so we can do the requisite husbandry. It needs some bottom pain, an oil change, tranny fluid change and other things. A couple days will be spent on bright work and waxing and polishing the "frozen snot" to make it respectable for our club's Opening Day.
We hope to set off in mid May and wander north to be up around Campbell River in mid June. The goal is to be somewhere along the route of the Van-Isle 360 so that we can leap into the fray and enjoy a party or two as the race goes by. Having competed in the race twice, as Captain of HMCS ORIOLE, I can vouch for the huge fun the racers have. We will follow the race west (at a more stately pace) then turn north to wander up into the Hakai Pass Recreation Area. Once around Cape Caution we will spend some time fishing and exploring the wilderness of central BC and position ourselves somewhere up near Bella Bella for the transit across to the Queen Charlottes.
We have arranged to enter Gwaii Haanas on the 15th of July and have a permit for the rest of the month. Booking into the park early is neccessary because of the limited number of boats and people who are allowed in at any given time.
We will cross back to the mainland from Cape St James around the end of July and spend the next couple weeks exploring the new Great Bear Rainforest. From there we will wander south along the coast and through the Broughton archipelago to be in Desolation Sound by Labour Day. We plan to be back in Victoria for the Easter Seals Reatta on the 15th of September.
That is the plan...........
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• Mar. 20, 2007 - The Beginning
It has long been a dream of mine to run away to sea on a small boat. When I was very young our family would spend a lot of time camping, boating and fishing. It always seemed to me that fun was always linked to boats. I learned to sail on a small flat board with a lateen rig that my Dad built. He called it a Buckboard. It was sorta the forerunner of a windsurfer. In my mind, as I sailed around the lake, I was at various times a pirate, explorer or racer. I read the classic stories of kids and boats, and I longed for a life at sea.
I eventually joined the Navy and spent a great chunk of my adult life at sea in warships doing various jobs ranging from watchkeeper to Captain. It seemed, as my career progressed, the boats I went to sea on got smaller and smaller culminating in a 100 foot Naval yacht that I commanded. About the same time I took that job, I bought a small sailboat, a Ranger 26, to teach my wife Nancy to sail and to have a little fun. The idea was to see if she could ever like sailing and if she would maybe run away with me sometime.
The Ranger was a success but it was not the boat for my grand plan. In my endless search for the perfect boat to run away on, I eventually stumbled upon Plumper II, a Truant 33, designed by Bill Garden and specifically built for sailing the Pacific NW. It is now ours.
The remaining stumbling blocks were all the same things that stop everyone from running away. We had kids, a dog, a house and all the stuff that keeps you with your nose to the grindstone. Well life ticked on, the kids left, the dog died and I am now quitting my job at the grand old age of 51 just to run away to sea for a few months.
Follow along with my challenges and adventures here over the next few months.
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