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Malin Mist

Day Six of our Irish Cruise and we awoke to a damp, misty day with not a puff of wind. Bantry and Whiddy Island had disappeared as had most of the surrounding hills.

After breakfast in bed we donned oilies, upped anchor and headed for Berehaven just a few miles away along the north shore of Bantry Bay to the west of Glengarrif.  Again we simply unfurled a little genie as the wind rose enabling us to beat along the shore.

Having left just after eleven, by one thirty we were tied up in Lawrence Cove – the first marina berth since leaving Dingle! The only space was on the fuel berth. For lunch we became adventurous and had another attempt at making toast under the grill. The loaf we’d purchased was bun shaped producing wide, short slices so fitted perfectly under the measly rectangle of flame that serves as a grill. Beans on toast for lunch was a success and warmed us suitably after the wetness of the morning.

Afterwards the rain had ceased and the decks were drying. Ahead of us on the pontoon was Full Tilt, an American boat we’d met on arrival in Dingle back in May. Stopping to chat to her crew we also met Elizabeth from Malin Mist, a wooden motorsailer moored on the opposite side of the pontoon. Elizabeth an elderly but sprightly skipper asked if one of us could help her with entering waypoints into the GPS. No problem replied the Skipper and promptly volunteered his mate! We’re off for a bike ride while the weather is dry but we’ll drop by on our return.

We carried on our way and found the village consisted of less than a dozen houses including a bar, Kitty’s (a restaurant) and the village shop. Kevin popped his head round the shop door, “What time do you shut?”. “9:30pm” “That’s fine we’ll be back later for some milk”.

We pedaled on up the hill; ‘road blocked’ stated the sign but walking towards us was a family with a fishing net and presumably they had got through so we guessed we should be able to. Further on round a bend or two, a road roller and heaps of stones filled the narrow lane along with four or five workmen in yellow jackets leaning on their shovels. We cycled past on the edge of the road meeting a JCB further on heading their way. We also met several car loads of army personnel making their way back to an encampment above the village from a firing range on the southern shore of the island.

The road sing at the next junction had a number of sights indicated including ‘Football Pitch’. A wonder in itself as we’d not seen that much flat land anywhere on our travels so far that afternoon. We headed off in a different direction entirely and ended up on a slipway chatting to an ancient local who had lived in the nearby house all his 70-odd years and was engaged in folding a net ready to be set in the tiny bay below to catch some bait for the prawn pots.

Back in Lawrence Cove we entered Elizabeth’s waypoints into her GPS with some corrections to the list she’d provided. Kevin had the charts out as she recounted tales of earlier years cruising along the coasts that bound the western English Channel. Afterwards, route to Kinsale complete and checked, over a glass of wine she told us how her husband had died less than a year after they’d purchased Malin Mist. It had not stopped her fulfilling their dreams and she had traveled all over the place with her. Early entries in her visitor book dated back before Kevin was born and several boats ago. Now she was looking for crew to get her to Kinsale and we were sorely tempted. Malin Mist had been in Lawrence Cove all winter and was now headed for La Rochelle. Despite her years (90 in a few weeks) we didn’t doubt that with the right crew Elizabeth would achieve her goal. An indomitable old lady of the seas.

Where next for us? We thought of staying a day or two and cycling via the ferry to Castletownbere but looking through the almanac, pilot book and the lonely Planet Guide to Ireland decide we’d move on tomorrow and head for Baltimore.

Kitty’s provided us with a fine supper – fish of the day proved to be Monk Fish in cream and was served with garlic potatoes in yet more cream. All was extremely “Moorish”.

7:56 PM - Oct. 23, 2006 - post comment