Autumn cruise in Turkey - part 1 - 6:42 PM, Nov. 13, 2006

Evening with Magna Carter - 3:54 PM, Aug. 25, 2006

Drove up to the coast yesterday evening, and spent a fine evening in the company of Maggie's skipper + crew. Was really nice to meet someone whose trials and tribulations I've been following for months.

Kids gave dire warnings about physically meeting internet acquaintances ( er, isn't that normally the other way round?), so made sure I was chaperoned. Felt a bit smug when they realised I was meeting a bona fide family!

Went for a meal in Ostend, then back to Maggie for a visit - some impressive gadgets, and a lot of fine work.Left around 22: 00 - skipper still had to do his passage plans.

They planned to leave Nieuwpoort for Harwich at 06:30 this morning. SWMBO was not enthusiastic about having to wear oilies, so I hope for their sakes the weather in the North Sea was better than in inland Belgium, which was grim, grim, grim.

Eager to read about their return trip

Turkey October-November 2006 - 5:10 PM, Aug. 4, 2006

Plans are starting to crystallise...

The boat, a Bav 44, was our "freebie" for having signed our purchase contract. The upgrade from a 3 cabin to a 4 cabin was our first extra, but one shouldn't count the pennies when friends / family are involved.

The sail plan : Marmaris - Gocek- Fetihye- Bozburun peninsula-Marmaris

The crew:

1) Base crew: me, Popeye, B (very young veteran of Balearics / Croatia 2006), and Starsky, who is even older than Popeye, but competent + a barrel of laughs

2) Crew 1st week: L+A (Croatia 2004, but have cruised aboard a luxury catamaran in the Caribbean this year - will they adapt to "slumming"?), Y+A, our ski holiday organisers for many years. But both participated in shipwrecks in their youth? someting to do with a Grand Banks with floating fridge...

3) Crew 2nd week: Children n°s 3+4, with partners.Will be an interesting experience. Reminder to practice POB (parent over board) procedure before they come on board.

Booked the flights  to Dalaman today (managed to screw up the return bookings, but Thomas Cook were very nice about it). So all we have to do now is wait  11 weeks and we're off.

Thanks to Swagman, whose blog decided us to choose Turkey this year.

Next year, we'll probably go for 6 weeks in Greece..

Seiches/ tidal waves/ rissaga/ resaca - 6:48 PM, Jun. 22, 2006

After Savarna's tales of tsunami warning in Menorca, went Googling again, and came upon the expalanation of what happened there, and what we experienced in the Adriatic.Apparently caused by "abrupt disturance in atmospheric pressure" - like big black cloud comes along, sucks up the sea, throws 40 boat on the rocks then tootles off again. Really spooky.

For doc on the Menorca / Adriatic phenomenon, see http://ioc3.unesco.org/itic/files/2005_Oct-Dec_screen.pdf

A serious warning to all who cruise those waters to keep a keen eye on the barometer

Labour saving devices??? Give me a boat anytime - 7:59 PM, Jun. 19, 2006

Dishwashers

When I was a lass, washing up was done by the kids.When I first met Popeye, wahing up was done by no-one -we used to have "dirty dishes" strikes and go off to (separate) pubs to avoid having to confront the problem. Circa 1980, we acquired our first dishwaher, and for a while, all was bliss.After a time, social unrest set in again, as no-one would load / unload the labour saving device,so back to square one. Recently replaced the dishwasher, with a guarantee until 2011, by which time we'll be liveaboards, with very little labour to save.

Washing machines 

The current one is about to give up the ghost, so it looks like another (last) investment is in order. But why do we get through one every 5 years? Maybe because I do about 10 loads a week. Lord knows why - if this is "labour saving" how did me poor old Grandma manage? Recent cruising experience shows that while clothes washing in a bucket is a viable (but labour intensive) method, the absolute top is throwing your clothes on the floor of the marina shower stall ( even though there are "no laundry" signs about), givin' em a good sprinkle of shower soap, and a good trample.

Other electrical thingies

Mostly gifts over the years, but only brought out a couple of times a year, and in the meantime require storage space equivalent to the 37 footer which will become our home. Sorry if I hurt any of the gift givers, but.... a toasted sandwich machine, an electric wok, can opener, bread slicer, bread maker, foot spa......?

Water + electricity to power these damn gadgets

Having acqcuired (and become dependent) on these "friends", I still have to feed them. Our water and electricty bills are probably close to the GDP of an average African country.

Is this progress? Probably not, but I guess I've got another learning curve coming with water makers, alternative sources of electricity and the like. 

Croatia 2006 - 8:31 AM, Jun. 5, 2006

Much the same crew as for the Balearics, but minus son n°1, who had work commitments, replaced by S the paramedic, who didn't quite match son's sailing skills but made up for it in eagerness to do chores.A great pity he was seasick in conditions other than dead calm.

The carefully planned route was to take us from Split to Dubrovnik; via the islands of Solta, St Klement, Korcula , Mljet, and back to Split via Sipan, Korcula, Hvar and Brac. Most legs would be shortish -12-15 miles, with only a couple of longer ones  - 30 miles, thus allowing time for visits, shopping and general time out.

Saturday May 13 Brussels - Split

Brussels - Split by air. Certainly beats 2 days by car, stuck in German traffic jams.

Discovered that the airport bus also stops at the marina, so saved a taxi fare.

Were able to take possession of "Eagle"the old-ish Bavaria 36 straight away, stowed our stuff, lunch at the adjacent "konoba", then off to the nearby supermarket to stock up on essentials, especially heavy / cumbersome items. Intercepted by security guards when we tried to make off with the trolley. My offer of leaving a valuable item (passport, Popeye...) as a deposit was refused, and instead they gave us a van and driver - for free.

Sunday May 14 Kastela - Sesula (Solta)

Woke to grey skies and rain. Undaunted, crew was briefed, anchor chain marked , water tanks filled, and we left the pontoon at 10.25, only to return 10 minutes later, since Eagle refused to steer to starboard. Discussions between charter staff resulted in us moving off Eagle and onto Talitha, a 2002 Bav 36 (much better layout). No fun unloading / reloading all our stuff in the rain, but the charterer paid for our lunch by way of compensation.

So it was 14.30 by the time we actually got going, which was not a big problem since today's leg was a short one. Wind was patchy, so crew had lots of opportunity unfurling / furling, as we alternately sailed / motored.

Anchored in Sesula at 18.20 - only 2 yachts there - what peace after the noisy marina!

Monday May 15 Sesula -Vinogradisce (Sv Klement)

Woke to a rising wind, so reanchored further out. Walked over the hill to the village of Maslinica, where the quay was full of visiting yachts. Relieved to discover Talitha where we'd left her. Upped anchor at 13.15, and mostly sailed all afternoon. Approached 9 kts at one point, with the genoa and1/2 the mainsail out.

Anchored at 16.45, shower at the marina on the the other side of the island (5 minutes walk away) and dinner at Toto's, where we were remembered from last year, and were given wine + coffee on the house!

Tuesday May 16 Vinogradisce - Vela Luka (Korcula)

8.55 - call from charterer, who had forgotten that we had a 2 week contract when he gave us Talitha, who was due out again next Saturday. Would we be terribly inconvenienced if we took her back for another swap? You bet we would! Our planned route to Dubrovnik and back to Split was already quite ambitious, and would have been impossible if we had to go back and start again. Explained this politely to Jakob, who went off to find another solution / job.

9.05 - call from kids - hot water on the blink. Not the first time - Popeye has been promising to call the plumber for months. Explain emergency re-start to kids, and they also called the plumber.

11.55 - ship's bucket overboard. Some idiot (me) didn't check the knot. 2 seconds too late with the boat hook - these things sink fast!

13.30 - anchor up. Light winds, but just enough, sea very flat, 32° at 14.45. Had a go at the helm, not very conclusive - never seen so many zigzags.

18.15 - one of the last places at the town quay at Vela Luka. Berthing here is a challenge, since there are no mooring lines. One has to drop the anchor then go stern to the quay. Last year, we gave up counting the number of fouled anchors, but this time it was better.

Realise that in the changeover from Eagle to Talitha, we didn't have a spare gas bottle - tried to get a refill at the town's petrol pump.Although one guy seemed to think it was possible, another said no. Maybe they've introduced some new safety rules? 

Incredibly good and cheap pizza in town, accompanied by an a capella choir which happened to be rehearsing nearby.

Wednesday May 17 Vela Luka - Uvala Luka (Korcula)

08.45 - 30° outside.

Shopping, fill water tanks..... leave at 13.30.

Wind / no wind. Clocked 2.5 hours sail, 3 hours motor

Anchored in Uvala Luka, 10 minutes walk from Korcula town. Managed to get gas bottle filled.

Dinner in town, and another a capella choir after, in an acoustic courtyard. Really magic, and they don't even go round with a hat! TVs outside many cafés - Barça vs Arsenal.Missed the last few minutes, which were apparently amazing.

Thursday May 18 Uvala Luka - Luka Polace (Mljet)

Visited Korcula in the morning - claimed to be the birth place of Marco Polo ( Korcula belonged to Venice at the time).Very pretty, very small, teeming with geriatric coach parties.

Left U Luka at 14.00, stopped off at fuel berth, first time crew had moored alongside, almost no shouting from Popeye. 4 kts with just the genoa, then 6.8 with both sails, then no wind at all.

18.00 - tied up to a mooring buoy off restaurant "Ancora". I managed to catch the buoy first time!Immediate arrival of restaurant owner's son in rowing boat, so we reserved dinner for 19.00. Once again, as "repeat clients" we got on the house firewater as apéritif, plus a bottle to take away.Strangely enough, the bottle didn't make it home.

Friday May 19 - day off

Left the buoy at 10.00, and anchored in the bay. Day of R+R, visiting the Mljet National Park - we'd already done it last year, but were keen to show it to the others.Popeye displeased that I negotiated a "senior citizen" entrance to the park for him.OK , over 60 is not the end of the world, but a 66% reduction is not to be sniffed at. This is the island where Odysseus stayed 7 years, and I can understand why.Parked dinghy on sea urchins, so reapeated inflations until Popeye patched it.Towards the end of the day, the wind gets up, a few drops of rain. Restaurant owner says we can go back to his buoy if we like. Decided the anchor is OK, so we'll ride it out.Gusty / rolly night, with regular anchor checks. Knackered next morning.

Saturday May 20 - Luka Polace - Dubrovnik (mainland)

Yesterday's R+R meant that today we have to combine 2 legs, some 30 nm, and we couldn't have chosen a worse day to do it!Left at 09.15. Last night's wind has hardly abated, and as we rounded the NW tip of Mjlet, we got the full force of it on the nose, so on with the motor for the rest of the day. Few entries in the log book. Popeye and B were at the helm, S + K in their bunks (with plastic bags) G reading in the saloon (very zen), and me, head down on the chart table, paralysed by fear. Also many regrets about buying new boat. This was going to be my last ever day at sea.

17.25 arrived Dubrovnik marina. Don't recall when the wind dropped, or when the sun came out, but suddenly things don't seem so grim. Popeye + I dine at the marina, the others catch the bus into town.

Sunday May 21 - Dubrovnik - Uvala Kosmec (Jaklan)

Morning visiting Dubrovnik - really worth while. Once again, heaving with tourists - it is the Pearl of the Adriatic, after all, and UNESCO heritage status to boot.

Have to pay an extra 1/2 days berthing at the marina, since we overshot the official departure time of 14.00. Made sure we got our money's worth by additional showers, dip in the swimming pool... There are even tennis courts! 

Left at 16.35, aiming for an anchorage on the island of Sipan, but as we got within range, saw lots of masts, so made for the island of Jaklan, where we had a splendid anchorage with only a Swiss catamaran as a neighbour.Dropped the anchor at 19.45.

Today Montenegro held a referendum re independence from Serbia. Since Dubrovnik is right next door to Montenegro, were afraid of Serbian reprisals!

Monday May 22 - U Kosmec- U Luka (Korcula)

Today felt like a holiday! Another long leg (planned this time), but in better conditions. Very hot, not much wind, several attempts at fishing ( no, don't ask).

Almost found it boring at times.Stopped off at Vrnik island in the afternoon for a swim in clean waters. Too few charter boats have holding tanks ( ours had one, but it wasn't connected) so swimming in closed bays used for overnight anchoring is not a good idea!Because we'd had the motor on, and the water tanks were well full, had hot shower after swim -mmmm!  

K brings out her 3rd dress of the trip- am gobsmacked. Must remember to acquire "cruise dress" .

18.10 - anchor in U Luka, dinner in town. G+S both get migraine - too much sun?

Tuesday May 23 - U Luka - Sucuraj (Hvar)

Calculated fuel consumption - 1.35 litres/hour. Good news for the budget.

Left U Luka at 10.15. More sail than motor today, achieving a comfortable 7 kts.

Arrived Sucuraj 14.20 - not quite what we expected after reading the pilot book, but it had its charms.Moored alongside, and got praise from Popeye. Electricity and water at the quay, toilets at the ferry terminal. All for 10 Kuna per metre - our cheapest berth of the whole trip. And not "yachtie" at all. One yacht arrived after us - I helped to take their lines, together with the harbour mistress ( and got bruises to prove it -the skipper seemed intent on driving the pulpit into my chest), another came for a look and left. So, just 2 yachts, the ferry and lots of fishing boats.

Plus well stocked shop

Wednesday May 24 - Sucuraj - Vrboska (Hvar)

Left Sucuraj at 09.10, heading along the N coast of Hvar.Almost all sail, nothing scary. Arrived at Vrboska "marina" at 15.00. Sad place, the marineros were all having a nap, few free spaces, many being taken up by decrepit boats having spent too many winters there.Find out that there are no more buses to Hvar town that day, and that a taxi would cost as much as dinner, so decide (once again) to bypass the millionaire's playground.

However, Vrboska was not as boring as we thought. In the space of 1/2 hour, we saw 3 "tidal waves" sweep into the creek, raising the water level by 2 metres, and coming over the quay wall. The locals seemed surprised - all busy reparking their cars. Later at dinner, we saw 2 others, even more spectacular - the river actually dried out between two waves - fishing boats sitting on the mud, the island at the head of the river no longer an island. No -one could explain it. In the winter, a gale force sirocco sometimes pushes big waves in, but never in May. The restaurant owner said (as he was pushing his ice cream fridges away from the on coming water) that it was surely a sign of bad weather to come.....

Thursday May 25 - Vrboska - Bobovisce (Brac)

Entry from log book, around 13.30 " Brand new Bavaria 37 for sale". This was another of those days when I was not going to set foot on a boat ever again.

Got weather forecast from marina - gusts up to 40 kts, sea up to 5. Holy s***

10.20 - left Vrboska, temp 35.8°.Sailed / motored peacefully  till lunchtime, after which  Popeye + I settled in the saloon for a snooze. By this time we were motoring, with the wind on the nose, but I was getting used to it, so not scared.Feeling pleased with myself that this was all part of a day's sailing Popeye went up to take over the helm, and immediately called me up on deck, where I saw enormous waves, and another yacht tacking at such an angle that I could see all it's bottom!. Popeye requested, somewhat urgently, that I consult chart and pilot book to find shelter, since we'd been sailing fairly close to the coast, and many other vessels were running for shelter.Fortunately, the panic didn't last long.Popeye changed course and increased the revs,  the sea / gusts eased off a bit , and by 15.00 we cut the motor and were doing 7 kts with just half the genoa.

15.35 - tied up to a mooring buoy at Bobovisce, which , according to the pilot book was a sheltered anchorage - didn't feel like it. Supper in the village, but was too landsick to enjoy it.

Friday May 26 -  Bobovisce - Kastela (mainland) 

Woken at 5 am by birdsong - blackbirds, a cuckoo, and many others.Wonderfully calm - what a change from yesterday. Pre - breakfast swim.

Left at 09.00, calmish day, all sail. As we approached Ciovo point, I pointed out that it might get a bit gusty up ahead, and suggested that we may want to reduce the sails a little. Suggestion refused. And indeed, as we passed the point, the toerail approached the water, I went green , and Popeye + G  just laughed, and said that this was what sailing is all about. Another issue to deal with...

12.45, back in Kastela marina. Jakob still has his job. Pack up our stuff, and off to visit Split. Although also immensely popular with tourists, Split seems to have its own life -local families with kids having an early evening walk, lots of students, and also lots of pretty girls, as the men kept pointing out. Popeye's great disappointment  was not getting to eat a banana split in Split!

Saturday May 27 Split -Brussels 

Up at 05.00 to get marina minibus to airport, for 7.30 flight. Back to cold and wet Belgium - really grim. Picked up from airport by son n° 2 , who seemed happy to see us, although I suspect this was to do with culinary prospects. Cats sulked the whole day. Hardly back at home 30 minutes when I'm summoned to help daughter n° 2 with revision for bookeeping exam. Back to real life - is this better or worse then gusts of 40kts and lumpy sea?

Popeye's 60th birthday party, Harlingen May 5-7 - 4:58 PM, Jun. 4, 2006

Aboard the SV Poseidon, based in Harlingen, formerly ( 100 years ago) a cargo vessel, now lovingly restored and converted for tourism. Accomodates 32 passengers in 14 cabins, with 4 heads, 2 showers, and the best equipped galley I've ever seen (OK, no dish washer, but with 33 pairs of hands on board, no problem).

New boat - signed, sealed and will be delivered next spring. - 7:45 PM, May. 28, 2006

It's done - contract signed, deposit paid, all in a last minute rush between Popeye's birthday bash and  our departure for Croatia. Can I reallly spend a big part of my life on a floating caravan without mod cons? YESSSSS!A tin of sardines, and I'm a happy lady ( no washing up) .Luxury of a warmish shower from time to time, and I'm on cloud 9. As for the sailing bit, still have a few issues to deal with, like not comfortable with speeds over 7 knots (this is a cruise, not race?), and not happy when toerail approached sea ( apparently, this is when sailing gets good, but it sends me to my bunk  / radio ready for mayday).

Birthday bash in Netherlands + cruising in Croatia will be logged when I get the time, but kids are in revision, + company tax audit this week, so a real cold shower ( memories of Dubrovnik marina) up ahead.

Bon vent!

Cold feet? - 11:45 AM, Apr. 29, 2006

A brand new Bavaria 37, to be delivered next spring, on a 3 1/2 year charter management scheme. The financing's sorted , the contract arrived yesterday, and is waiting to be signed. But can I really do it? Am about to invest a large chunk of my equity in this project. Am the kind of person who won't buy new shoes until the old ones are in tatters, so the reality of buying a boat is way off my radar screen. And every time I pick up a yachting magazine, my remaining neurone focusses on the horror stories. At night, my dreams go through all the bad bits of my past sailing experience.Will soon have to replace pyjamas with life jacket! Even Swagman's wonderful tales only yield Sue's sesickness and wet bunks.

But if we don't do it, what will the future be? Gardening (which we both hate), knitting (which I once did very badly) and a place in a retirement home ? Too grim to think about .

I never got to do a gap year when I was young, because it was't particularly popular at the time (the choice was hippy or yuppy, I chose the latter) and because we were poor as church mice.But at least I managed to make several major decisions (eg expatriation) without too much hesitation.

So why am I dithering? I guess it takes courage to turn your dreams into reality, and my courage seems  to have evaporated.

Whatever, the sun's out, the magnolia's blooming at last, the newts have returned to our pond, and next weekend is Popeye's "pirate birthday", with all the family and many (very) old friends together on an ancient cutter for the weekend.

Will now go + read the contract again

Nearer to the dream - 6:28 PM, Apr. 6, 2006

Popeye has given his employer offcial notice that he will retire at the end of this year. Which leaves me with 6 years to go, and still 2 kids on the payroll - not a happy bunny. This wage slave thing really gets you down.....

Until I perchanced upon a new bit of Belgian law which allows me to cash in an insurance policy,(relating to a pension scheme I left in 1990), at favourable tax rates on May 1 next year. Will be enough to buy eg a 1999 Bav 36, or maybe new, on a 3.5 year charter management scheme.Am sooo excited!  Have now realised  that there are maybe upsides to being a wage slave.

So if we go ahead and do this, I'm going to have to learn how to sail, rather than just (try to) execute Popeye's orders. Have read "Sailing for dummies", but think I need more. Maybe some sailing experience with a non-spouse, preferably one who never shouts. Then again, I'm sometimes so cack-handed, even the mildest of skippers ( if they exist outside of boating magazines) would throw a wobbly.

Any advice from trailing / sailing spouses welcome.

This year's projects - 9:19 PM, Mar. 15, 2006

Having survived the ski season without injury (except to the wallet, made worse by unplanned purchase of new boots, old ones having decided to explode mid-schuss), now looking forward to 1st weekend in May - Popeye's 60th birthday. Have chartered a "pirate boat" - Dutch cargo clipper, circa 1900, recently refurbished for tourists and partying. 32 berths, half of which will be occupied by family, the other half by similarly geriatic / alcoholic friends.Board at Harlingen Friday evening, Sat + Sun sailing in the Waddenzee.Said (expensive) charter was made possible by legacy from uncle K, a keen sailor in Cornwall, who crossed over the horizon a year ago. Bless him, he was a fine man. A libation to Neptune will be made in his honour.

If we survive that, the weekend after we depart for Croatia ( again? yawn), with much the same mutineer crew as the Balearics last October. This will be the last charter trip in Croatia ( Split-islands-Dubrovnik + back) after which we will skip Montenegro and Albania, and continue in Greece. All this is reccy work for the day we finally get our own boat, and spend our Alzheimer years in the Med / Adriatic/ Aegean ( or anywhere else that doesn't have the suffix "ocean").

Depending on grandsons' reaction to the sailing weekend, and my progress as less-than-criminally-incompetent-crew, we may do a 1 week charter at the autumn 1/2 term hols with daughter number 1, her husband (both competent dinghy sailors ) and the grandsons, between Rome + the island of Ponza.

In the meantime, looking forward to Swagman's new season, and more of Magna Carta's life of drudgery (whose boat seems a lot like our house - never ending list of structural things to be done- I don't even dare to make lists any more).

Bon vent à tous

Balearic photos - 11:51 AM, Nov. 3, 2005

At the visitors' quay in Ciutadella

Our mate Flipper

Flipper + friend

Balearics October 2005 - 6:25 PM, Nov. 1, 2005

October 22, 2005

Brussels airport, 5 in the morning, cold and wet, 6 of us queue at check in for Barcelona. Is this a way to start a holiday? 09.00, arrival in Barca, 19° outside, feeling better. Efficient lady at tourist info gets us a mini-van to Port Olimpic marina. "Refuse to lose " taxi driver gets us all plus many bags into his vehicle.Pitstop at charter base to say hello to Barbara, base manager, drop off bags and do some sight seeing. Back at 16.00, knackered, footsore and laden with provisions.Take possession of our Océanis 393,only 3 years old, but already looking a bit shabby. Stow everything, go thru check in with Barbara ( who wouldn't let us test the dinghy's outboard, and gave a few strange looks while the crew tried to get the hang of the electric pump on the aft heads). Cast off at  18.00, direction Porto Soller, Mallorca, 100 nm away, with the wind on the nose.( 15-20 knots , SE) Attempted supper (disgusting cannelloni) only appreciated by 2 of the crew. Mine went directly to the fish, just before I succumbed to seasickness for the first time in 16 years. The night passed in a grey/green nightmare, my only memory being whether I should attach myself to my bunk with the safety harness ( was in forward cabin, and the pitching of the boat sent me roofwards several times), and Popeye coming to grief in the forward heads. No entries in log book after 18.20.

October 23, 2005

Ressucitate at 9.15, when we abandon sail, and start to motor, which we did for the rest of the passge to Soller, where we anchored at 14.35. Former colleague of Popeye's, now retired at Soller, had been waiting (in the pub!) since 10.00. Put out the dinghy, attached the outboard - and it didn't work! 4 of us rowed ashore to meet (imbibed) former colleague, and plan next move. Phoned charter technician in Palma re outboard, rowed back to boat, moved to commercial quay (last but one berth), picked up new outboard, unspectacular dinner in Soller, back to boat at 23.00, where we discovered that the electric  aft heads were refusing to digest. Two hours of plumbing ensued, without sucess. Thunderstorms and hard rain during the night.

October 24,2005 

Morning taken up with call to Andreas, our friendly repair man, internet for weather, shopping. Andreas finally (after over 2 hours) fits new manual pump to heads. Mobile internet for weather, via GPRS was brilliant - shame Popeye didn't bring a real mouse, since neither of us are very good with these pad things. Shopping was a pleasant surprise - everything seemed much cheaper. Got a real trolley full for 6 people / 2 days, and still had change out of 70 EUR. Further analysis conducted on a "reference product" (beer) proved that life is cheaper in thr Balearics. 33 cl in Belgium cost around 67 ct, while we now paid 49 ct. No wonder Popeye's colleague retired here!

Left Soller at 13.15, with no regrets. Not a very pretty place, bursting with day trippers.Motor sailed to Cala Figuera, where we dropped anchor at 18.25, just as it was starting to get dark, so couldn't really appreciate the beauty of the place. Bit of swell in the anchorage, so a rolly night, but anchor held well.

October 25, 2005

Upped anchor at 9.45, off for Menorca. Original plan was to go for Cala Covas, apparently one of the prettiest calas , but this would have been a 12 hour sail, and the crew was showing mutinous tendencies. Change plan, and head for Ciutadella. Not much wind, sea like a mill pond, 36° at 13.00 - starting to feel like a holiday. At noon, a pod of dolphins came to play with the boat, one of them loved scratching its back alongside! At 13.15, wind picked up, so cut the motor and hoisted the sails. Nice lunch made of leftovers, followed by pancakes, courtesy of son n° 1. By 15.20, we were doing a smart 6.6 kn ! Arrived 16.20 at Ciutadella, moored alongside the visitors’ quay ( 25 EUR , incl water and elec, but 2 EUR extra for a 6 min shower), and hit the town. Very pretty. Ate at “La guitarra”, excellent, 162 EUR for 6, incl starters, dessert and wine. Really feeling on holiday – unfortunately, tomorrow we start the return trip.

October 26,2005

Fill water and fuel tanks, check weather, debate as to next destination. Uncertainty causes 3 separate shopping parties into the town.Popeye thinks that a well provisioned boat is one with a fridge full of beer. Forgets that we are 6 on board, including 3 non-drinkers, but who like to eat regularly.Leave at 11.30, destination Pollensa, Mallorca. Good run, got up to 7.5 kn (by this time, I was bleating about maybe putting in a reef or two, what a coward). Approached Pollensa at 16.30, dropped the sails, and motored around trying to find the “sheltered moorings “ promised by the pilot book. Gave up and anchored in the bay, near the harbour. Quiet night.

October 27, 2005

Since we were near enough to the town to go ashore, send the mutineers off in the dinghy to ensure beer stocks. Left at 11.15, motored to Cala Engossaubas, between Pollensa and Cabo Formentor, where we were to have a day of R+R before tackling the trip back to the mainland.This was to be the day I was going to blog from the boat, but just couldn’t summon the energy.The Cala was not as sheltered as we had hoped , so several nervous eyes were watching our position relative to the nearby cliffs. Inspired by son n° 1, swimming in wet suit, dived in as well, only to be attacked by a jellyfish after 10 strokes. Someone had said that urine was a good remedy for jelly stings, but declined all offers and went for the mozzie stuff instead. Supper at 18.00, upped anchor at 19.00, and set off for the last 100 miles with the wind up our bum.By 19.50, had put the main to bed, and were doing 6 kn with just the genoa. No pitching this time, just rock’n roll. Manage to grab 50 min sleep before my watch at 21.00.

I hate watches- like really, really hate. First lasted until midnight, nothing much to report, apart from the rolling got a bit scary sometimes. Smoked too many cigarettes. Handed over next watch to son n°1 and a mutineer ( who was having a hard time digesting a squid) at 24.00

October 28,2005

 Next watch was from 06.00 to 09.00.39 miles to go , wind still up the bum. Smoked the last fag at 08.45, together with the first cup of coffee. Thought I would then sleep until Barca, where tobacco stocks would be replenished. However, as we neared the mainland, the wind died, and our ETA was recalculated from 12.30 to 15.00, so got a bit tense. Was roused from my bunk at 10.30, due to sighting of more dolphins. Thought I had given specific instructions re not being woken for less than a whale!

13.00 – TTG 1.23. Consider smoking Popeye’s pipe.

15.00 – arrival at Port Olimpic. Had been nervous about mooring, since very little space between the neighbours, and the Océanis behaves very strangely in reverse. But we slipped in without any problem, without even a shoe horn, as if we’d been doing this forever.Despatched son no° 1 for tobacco supplies ( he was almost as bad as me). The mutineers hit the town ( or rather the shoe shops), while Popeye + I did the check out with drop-dead-gorgeous Jensen ( Barbara had broken her leg while washing up). Popeye got a bit iffy, but if an old lady is not allowed to appreciate a work of art…?

Mutineers back at 19.30 for dinner. Went  to “El Cangrejo Loco” on the port (already known to son n°1), where we had a wonderful meal ( starter, lobster, pudding + lots of libations), for less than a Pizza Hut back home.

October 29,2005

Vacated boat at 09.00, although it was not due out the next week. Female mutineer had already left earlier, to visit Montjuich (and more shoe shops). Minibussed rest of crew and luggage to airport, then returned to the city for whistle stop tour of Sagrada Familia – must say its grown a bit since I last saw it in 1968! Back to airport, just in time…. to find out that flight is delayed !

Back home, fantasising about a long , hot , deep bath – heating’s broken. Bugger

November 1, 2005

Finally get round to writing this, but the website’s down. Bugger

Mobile internet - 10:50 AM, Oct. 2, 2005

Following Swagman John's excellent info on internet at sea, have just acquired a GPRS card ,  ex Vodaphone stock, selling off at 65 EUR. Ordered in Belgium, shipped from Manchester,delivered with instructions in Spanish!Fortunately, the installation CD was multi-lingual. And I even managed to get t up and running (almost) all by mysef!Not bad for someone who, much to grandsons' disdain, can't get the hang of Playstation.Next step is to test it from abroad, so will entrust it to son number 1, who goes back to Luxembourg this afternoon, and to Poland during the week.If all goes well, in 3 weeks time, will be able to post from Puerto Soller in Mallorca!

The motley crew, Croatia 2004 - 2:25 PM, Aug. 21, 2005

Postcard taken by a guy at Skradin marina, who makes his living immortalising the manoeuvres of charter crews attempting to berth. Good commercial trick - you get your own photo in the middle. Fortunately, he took the photo just before we screwed up!

After our « no mod cons » experience in 2003, realised that with a bigger crew, could get more boat for the same price per head, so spent much of the autumn/ winter planning episode 2. The project finally crystallised as 2 weeks on a Sun Odyssey 34,2 out of Primosten, with a crew comprised of 3 old friends and Popeye’s sister. Combined age of crew -  325. Combined experience of crew – minimal. Y was our best bet, he actually owns a Sigma 30 (and has been known to sail it), L had learned to swim specially for such an opportunity, his wife A has apparently taken part in several shipwrecks in her younger days, and sister-in-law P never gets seasick. This must be the origin of the term “motley crew”.

Turned up at our charter base to take possession of our 3 cabin cheapie, only to learn that it had been put up for sale, hence no longer on the charter market, and would we mind accepting a Bavaria 50 in lieu? 5 cabins, 2 heads, bowthruster…catalogue charter price 3 times what we had paid for the SO. Mumbled a bit about higher marina fees, broken autohelm, but took it anyway. Forecabin came in very handy for storing everyone’s spare luggage (except mine of course).

Without attempting to rewrite a 2 week log, highlights (or lowlights) include:

·       visit to Skradin waterfalls ( impressive, and worth a longer hiking stay),

·       several appalling crew manoeuvres ( nasty scratch leaving Sibenik port),

·       Bilges full of water, broken bilge pump, resulting in call out of charter base manager, Eddy, who fixed most of it, but had to bypass the water heater, which had caused the problem.

·        Having to shower in marinas where “save  hot water “ posters were displayed – strange as none of us had a hot water experience.

·       Several wonderful anchorages, very calm out of season, with good local food and wine just a short dinghy ride away.

·       No fish. Popeye tried, but to no avail – having studied the local fishermen, conclude that there are fish in the Adriatic, but you have to know where to go, and be able to fish in Croatian.

·       Lack of volunteers for washing up. Skipper exempt due to important role (but he uses the same excuse at home?) Down to me + sis-in law, accompanied by Phil Collins on the CD. Popeye filmed it – looked like “grannies behaving badly”

·       Not making it to the blue grotto on Bisevo. Maybe next time

·       Not making it to the island of Hvar, millionaire’s playground, home to the jet set. Maybe never

·       Taking our time – this was a holiday after all, not a race. Persuading Popeye that flapping along at 2 knots was not an insult, we didn’t have a bus to catch

·       The delights of heads (even without holding tank) furling sails, self-tailing winches (all my overlap problems resolved), electric windlass, spray hood (useful for getting head down for a quick nap), and all the other stuff on a fully equipped charter boat.

·       Sunstroke- see spray hood nap. Cover nape of neck in future

·       Provisioning – calculate the maximum amount of daily booze consumption, add a margin of 50%, and find yourself trekking off with rucksack to re-stock.

Conclusion after 2 weeks cruising - still more to see and do. Start planning episode 3 as soon as we get back.

Sailing in my garden ( 2nd version, this photo thing is mysterious) - 9:20 PM, Aug. 12, 2005

Well, "in my garden" is a slight exaggeration, but Genval lake is just down the road . Were on babysitting duty for grandsons last weekend, and had promised "sail on lake" if they were good (yes, this is blackmail, best parenting tool ever). A jolly nice time was had by all, even a G+T at the end, followed by a splendid BBQ at this fantastic little restaurant in Cala Rosières - goes by the name of "Chez Olive", - good food, copious libations, and use of neighbours' pool.

This should have been posted a week ago, but had problems with posting photos (naively thought a copy/paste from hard disk would do). So a big thank you to son number 1, who taught an old dog some new tricks

Popeye:

No time to blog - 5:16 PM, Jul. 14, 2005

Had vowed not to be a "redundant" blogger, but have had a grim few weeks at work, thus neither time nor inclination to write. Plus kids have finished exams, so finding a slot on either of home PC's has been difficult. But have been reading everyone's entries, which has kept my morale afloat.

Swagman's booze cruise sounds a lot of fun. Almost died when I read about the Thompson episode. And his friend with the suitcase full of spare livers seems very resourceful - can one buy them on the internet? On the practical side, Swagman seems to have it all sorted - very useful advice on internet connections; what "sang froid" about the battery charging episode. Next big techy question - does you fridge make ice for the G+Ts, or do you compromise?

Dave "Plain Sailing"'s entries and photos are a source of joy. Popeye has even visited the website, and can confirm that Silkie seems 100% more comfortable than the same size day sailer we tried to cruise with on our first trip to Croatia. Shame Dave didn't make it to Ireland, but seemed to make up for it with "libations".

And Magna Carter is off to the Deben, not very far from where I was born ( over as pub, as luck would have it). Hope you've read PBO + YM, re the shifting sands at the entrance. Sailed there 2 years ago, and can confirm that over a space of 2 days, they move right across the mouth at every tide. Tip - follow a larger vessel (from a safe distance) 

Aquarius -when you find your 34ft Bavaria / Oceanis for less than £40K, plus all the gadgets, pls let me know. We started off in that price range, and have now added 50%.But then again, we're real geriatrics, not 'nouveau middle aged', so once we retire,will have no time to spend on DIY.

"Only" 14 weeks till next trip, when we will try out the Balearics, but this time with competent crew and biggish yacht. Will try before then to do a mini-log of Croatia 2004 ( very big yacht, as to crew, am still seeking legal advice before publication) and Croatia 2005 ( almost got it right , apart from 2 major incidents provoked by myself - nothing too serious, Popeye is still alive, and we're still married)

Only marine activity on the horizon this weekend is maybe taking the grandsons (age 4 + 6) sailing dinghies on our local lake. Every experience counts, right?

Bon vent !    

Croatia September 2003 - 10:55 AM, Jun. 22, 2005

The "boat" - after much research on the internet, found about the only 2 berth yacht in the whole Adriatic, at a price we could afford (450 EUR / week). Of course, for that kind of price, one can't expect much comfort, but our Elan Express (all 7,7 metres of it) was very basic indeed. In those days, I didn't know about furling sails, or reefing, anchor winches, sprayhoods, holding tanks or any of that good stuff, but could at least recognise a distinct lack of toilet and  fridge. The "galley" was a sort of cupboard that slid away under the cockpit. The engine, all 8 HP of it, was an outboard, much to Popeye's dismay. The fuel and water tanks were in fact 2 jerry cans. This is what we got:

Anyways, undaunted, the courageous crew of 2 set sail for the Kornati islands (just rocks, rather disappointing)Popeye thought the boat performed well under sail, but was less pleased with the crew, especially in her role as anchor wench..Not much cop as helmswoman either.Weather was perfect - not too hot, just enough wind, until the middle of the week , when we set off for Sibenik. The day dawned fairly grey, and the breeze got a little stronger, but Popeye has skippered in storms in the North Sea, and I've read Dame Ellen's book, and anyway, only wimps stay in the marina, or turn back (as many did). Well , we certainly had a non-wimpish day.

The stiff breeze turned into a head-on force 6, the reefing system didn't work, and Popeye couldn't fix it, because I can't helm. On the way astern after stowing the genoa (no furling anythings, remember), boat hits big wave, crew chooses to throw herself at the boom rather than overboard, and cracks a rib. Not painful, as anaesthetised by fear.Poor little outboard having problems keeping prop in water, so Popeye has to sit on it. Sliding galley thingy unstows itself from under cockpit, decides it would be more comfortable to port rather than starboard, so throws itself across the saloon, severely grazing crew's leg in the process.Not painful, as anaesthetised by fear. Large waves coming over the bows, drenching everything ( at least the water was warm) including new mobile phone which had been stowed below for "safekeeping". Crew now understands interest of sprayhood. Helicopter hovers overhead, possibly thinking boat may be in difficulty, tho' can't imagine how they could have got that idea.

Arrived at Sibenik town port at 17.00, where the harbour master, while taking our lines asked "Holidays or hard work?"My flabber was so gasted, I couldn't reply.

"Galèretours" - the name suggested itself that day. Play on "Airtours", travel company specialised in geriatric packages to Costa Brava, and (Roman) galley where slaves have a thoroughly miserable time.

The slop bucket - only facilities at Sibenik were water + elec. No loo, no showers. Next morning, confronted with orange bucket containing yellow liquid ( thankfully no solids), whilst tied up to a town quay with masses of passing tourists. Mix remainder of breakfast coffee grounds with contents of bucket, and chuck the lot overboard.

Next time: Croatia 2004, or how to get a free upgrade from 35 ft to 50ft

How it started - 9:15 PM, Jun. 20, 2005

Here I am, new to sailing; + new to blogs.

Married a sailor / mountaineer, and spent most of the  next 26 years not participating in husband's (aka Popeye)  activities, due to children, job etc.

2002: 2 kids have flown nest, the 2 others are able to fly -  we plan reccy visit to Croatia in September. Daughter number 2 throws a wobbly about starting higher education, so Croatia replaced by Ardèche ( have an excellent address BTW).

2003: Get "parental authorisation" ( kids authorise parents ) to go for it.Research shows that campsites are  mainly the size of industrial estates, and fairly nudist.Too prude to do nude, so look at renting a lighthouse. Lighthouses are all extremely remote, fine for a honeymoon, but don't forget, Popeye + I have been together for 24 years , so we go for a "boat".

Next episode (if I can keep this up):

How "galèretours" got its name

The "boat"

Hints on emptying the slop bucket in a town harbour with a minimum of discretion

The broken rib