Croatia September 2003 - 10:55 AM, Jun. 22, 2005

The "boat" - after much research on the internet, found about the only 2 berth yacht in the whole Adriatic, at a price we could afford (450 EUR / week). Of course, for that kind of price, one can't expect much comfort, but our Elan Express (all 7,7 metres of it) was very basic indeed. In those days, I didn't know about furling sails, or reefing, anchor winches, sprayhoods, holding tanks or any of that good stuff, but could at least recognise a distinct lack of toilet and  fridge. The "galley" was a sort of cupboard that slid away under the cockpit. The engine, all 8 HP of it, was an outboard, much to Popeye's dismay. The fuel and water tanks were in fact 2 jerry cans. This is what we got:

Anyways, undaunted, the courageous crew of 2 set sail for the Kornati islands (just rocks, rather disappointing)Popeye thought the boat performed well under sail, but was less pleased with the crew, especially in her role as anchor wench..Not much cop as helmswoman either.Weather was perfect - not too hot, just enough wind, until the middle of the week , when we set off for Sibenik. The day dawned fairly grey, and the breeze got a little stronger, but Popeye has skippered in storms in the North Sea, and I've read Dame Ellen's book, and anyway, only wimps stay in the marina, or turn back (as many did). Well , we certainly had a non-wimpish day.

The stiff breeze turned into a head-on force 6, the reefing system didn't work, and Popeye couldn't fix it, because I can't helm. On the way astern after stowing the genoa (no furling anythings, remember), boat hits big wave, crew chooses to throw herself at the boom rather than overboard, and cracks a rib. Not painful, as anaesthetised by fear.Poor little outboard having problems keeping prop in water, so Popeye has to sit on it. Sliding galley thingy unstows itself from under cockpit, decides it would be more comfortable to port rather than starboard, so throws itself across the saloon, severely grazing crew's leg in the process.Not painful, as anaesthetised by fear. Large waves coming over the bows, drenching everything ( at least the water was warm) including new mobile phone which had been stowed below for "safekeeping". Crew now understands interest of sprayhood. Helicopter hovers overhead, possibly thinking boat may be in difficulty, tho' can't imagine how they could have got that idea.

Arrived at Sibenik town port at 17.00, where the harbour master, while taking our lines asked "Holidays or hard work?"My flabber was so gasted, I couldn't reply.

"Galèretours" - the name suggested itself that day. Play on "Airtours", travel company specialised in geriatric packages to Costa Brava, and (Roman) galley where slaves have a thoroughly miserable time.

The slop bucket - only facilities at Sibenik were water + elec. No loo, no showers. Next morning, confronted with orange bucket containing yellow liquid ( thankfully no solids), whilst tied up to a town quay with masses of passing tourists. Mix remainder of breakfast coffee grounds with contents of bucket, and chuck the lot overboard.

Next time: Croatia 2004, or how to get a free upgrade from 35 ft to 50ft