Fairwinds 2005

We weighed anchor at eleven o' clock and motored out of the anchorage the way we had come, although there would probably have been enough water to go out over the coral sand bar. We towed the dinghy, something I usually avoid in open water, but this seemed a safe bet. As soon as we were clear of the narrow part of the channel we got the sails up and set out to sail down the channel between Tanera Beg and Tanera Mor, then up the East side of Tanera Mor for a lunch stop and visit. The wind, having blown all night, now died away and we floated about practicing our light airs techniques until it picked up enough to goosewing down the channel.

Sailed into the Anchorage on Tanera Mor and dropped the sails while we investigated the 'Cabbage Patch'. Anchored behind Eilean Beg, away from the moorings and relatively sheltered from the continuing North-Easterly. We went ashore by dinghy at the old stone pier and walked round the bay to the Post Office and Tea Room at Ardnagoigne on the N. side of the Anchorage. Some kids in a wayfarer were being instructed by a guy following them in a RIB yelling instructions:

"Tiller away from you . . . away from you . . . WATCH WHERE YOU'RE GOING . . . move over to the other side . . . OTHER SIDE . . . NOW . . . good, good . . . now let go the sails to stop the boat . . . "

The Post Office is allowed to issue its own stamps, but they are only valid as far as Badentarbat Pier on the mainland - if you want your postcard to go any further you have to put a UK stamp on as well. We had a cup of tea and a 'yummy slice' - which lived up to its name - and learned that about ten people live on the island permanently now in addition to holidaymakers who rent cottages. Fish farming is obviously the economic mainstay - the whole broad sweep of the Anchorage is full of cages of one sort or another, with the usual ancilliarty floating portacabins . . . surely the industry could prettify itself a little?

The Hebridean Princess anchored in Badentarbt Bay (between Polbain and Achiltibuie, directly opposite Tanera Mor) and began disgorging launches full of passengers, so we made our escape and motored over to anchor East of the pier in Badentarbat, a few cables away from the mother ship. The pilot describes this as an occasional anchorage, but in a N-Easterly it is ideal, with good holding. We dinghied ashore and walked to the Summer Isles Hotel where we treated ourselves to two of their famous seafood platters and a couple of pints of the Isle of Skye Brewery's Young Pretender.