25/7/09   1040 - 1920   Craobh to Tobermory   37.5nm

With Adrian.  Another summer trip, and again in theory no time pressure, but the general weather outlook not particularly good so more ambitious plans such as St. K almost certainly not going to be on.  A deepish depression was coming in, but there was time to make some distance north before it arrived.  Across the Firth of Lorne in SW3/2 - mostly ghosting along and motoring in the calms.  Up the Sound of Mull in variable winds, mostly motor sailing.  Anchored in the SW corner of Tobermory bay then dinner in the pub.  Peaceful night, disturbed only by a late arrival trying to anchor his c. 50 foot boat far too close to the incumbents and being told in no uncertain fashion to depart forthwith.

26/7/09  Tobermory

The forecast strong wind and rain arrived on schedule, but we were in a sheltered spot so a relaxed day festering was followed by dinner in the pub.

27/7/09   0925 - 1800   Tobermory to Doune to Isleoronsay   40.9nm    

29/7/09   1155 - 1535   Kyles Scalpay to South Rona   18.2nm 

As is often the case, in the morning things looked much better.  SW5 seemed positively calm!  Inspection in daylight confirmed that anchor, connector and chain were OK, as was the forestay and furler (after some judicious bending of the wire reefing line guard) [see end of annual summary, however], and repairs to the windlass attachment were possible, and could in fact be carried out with much less butchery than I had thought might be required.  It all took time, of course, but eventually everything was working normally again.  I would have liked to go ashore to pay for use of the buoy (if maintained!) but it was still a bit too rough for the dinghy, and there was no information in the pilot about the boatyard, if such it was, so I couldn't phone them.  [All necessary info acquired later courtesy of the Bluemoment forum.] 

30/7/09   0845 - 1530   South Rona to Loch Shell   34.0nm

31/7/09   Loch Shell

While the local weather was around S5, the forecast was bad with F8 or 9 predicted.  We sat tight and, frustratingly, never had much more than F6.  However, we were fairly philiosophical about it: better to be anchored snugly (and this was a good spot) in lighter than expected wind than bouncing around in a severe gale and heavy sea.  The weather was wet, however, and the window above my bunk developed a leak.  A carefully deployed towel intercepted it as a temporary fix.

1/8/09   0935 - 1815   Loch Shell to Scalpay (Harris) to Scotasay to Tarbert   20.1nm

We had a difficult routing decision to make.  We really wanted to do more things further south in the Outer Hebrides, so working our way down the Harris coast would make sense, however a deep depression was due to arrive later giving strong S to SE winds which could give us problems.  There was an argument for using today's SE3 to scuttle back round the top of Skye and across to the mainland where subsequent progress southward in strong easterlies should be possible.  We eventually decided, however, to press on, accepting that we might be going out on a limb.

When attempting to weigh anchor the windlass refused to operate.  Adrian hauled it up manually then stowed chain and anchor while I manoevered carefully through the rocks and round the west side of the island.  After leaving the loch we had a good reach in an increasingly lumpy sea as the wind rose steadily to S5.  Eventually Scalpay gave us a bit of a lee and we sailed quite slowly against the tide under the Scalpay Bridge, while a rib from a fishery protection boat overtook us and had a look at all the fish farms. 

A stop in Scalpay North Harbour for lunch (nice spot) gave the opportunity to have another look at the windlass (open circuit: too difficult to fix aboard) and go up the mast to recover an errant lazy jack.  I now remembered that some years before, following a previous windlass problem, I had bought an emergency handle which allowed the windlass to be operated manually - not as fast as electrically, but a great improvement on manhandling chain. 

A short motor across to Scotasay gave us another fairly easy island, again with good views, and a further motor got us into East Loch Tarbert.  From the pilot description we were a bit worried about not finding  room here, but there were no other yachts anchored and we found an acceptable spot.  Ashore for diesel, but the garage had just shut, the next open one was 3 miles away, and the following day was The Sabbath.  We decided that diesel could wait.  At the Tarbart Hotel we asked about showers - again, full up, but the tourist office was suggested.  Apparently there are showers there (which for the future is worth knowing) but a further hitch appeared - the town's water main had burst!  After dinner (very busy and only just obtained by being early enough to use a later booked table) we used the fairly basic cockpit shower - possible the only ones in Tarbert that evening to have showering facilities!

2/8/09   1000 - 1630   Tarbert to Lochmaddy   31.8nm

3/8/09 - 5/8/09   Lochmaddy

Spent next 3 days sitting out bad weather.  The big depression had arrived then only moved away very slowly.  More boats arrived, but none left.  At times too rough to dinghy ashore.  Despite forecast of gales, wind never actually exceeded F7, but always southerly.  The Lochmaddy hotel, by now predictably, did not have functioning showers - "renovations".  Eventually obtained 10 litres of DERV from the shop / fuel pumps, and met the harbour master who advised that VBs now chargeable.  A form was issued, but he didn't want to take money.  In fact our 4 night stay cost a grand total of £6.92 which seemed a bargain.  [I was eventually invoiced in December for the £1 VAT which I'd accidentally omitted.]  During the occasional dry spells, quite a lot of "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" was applied to the leaking window which eventually solved the problem.

6/8/09   0555 - 1920   Lochmaddy to Canna   62.5nm

The first break in the weather saw a mass exodus of boats.  We were now under distinct time pressure, and very anxious to make as much way south as possible.  S4 gave us hard, close hauled progress over to Skye then a wet beat past Neist Point and on towards Canna; lumpy seas and very heavy spray.  Approaching Canna the autohelm failed, so the spare was substituted.  Canna harbour had about a dozen boats already at anchor and due to tired inattention we anchored a bit too close to one of them.  Although there was no risk of collision, it did seem a bit rude so we shifted and re-anchored.  Both we and Avilion were covered in salt, and pre-dinner cockpit showers were as welcome as the pre-prandial G&Ts.  Sunny, fine gentle evening - a welcome contrast to the previous few days. Stripping down the failed autohelm revealed a shredded drive belt - another job for later.

7/8/09   0830 - 2215   Canna to Loch Spelve   64.7nm 

S2 gave us a gentle close hauled sail between Canna and Rum.  There had been little wildlife so far this trip, but that now quickly changed.  In the course of the next couple of hours we saw basking shark, a pair of Minke(?) whales, an eagle and porpoises.  Eventually the wind died, so a mix of motor sailing and motoring took us towards Ardnamurchan.  For the first time this trip conditions were flat enough to allow lunch to be made on passage.  Patchy mobile phone reception appeared, and with it worrying messages: my mother was ill.  The next few hours were frustrating, but eventually proper contact could be established in the Western Entrance.  The situation was fairly serious but not critical.  We decided to go as far as possible that day, rather than stop at Lochaline as planned.

Motoring through the Sound of Mull, at first against then with the tide we passed the Friday horde heading the other way, up to Tobermory.  We considered Puilldobhraoin, but did not really fancy being the last arrival to a crowded anchorage in the dark, so instead entered Loch Spelve in the growing darkness and anchored behind the wee island in the NE corner in flat calm.  Late dinner.

8/8/09   0715 - 1045   Loch Spelve to Craobh   14.8nm

We woke to rain.  Motoring out of the loch it grew heavier, and continued most of the way across the Firth of Lorne as we motored straight into a S3.  The sea was quite bouncy off Easdale and approaching Cuan.  The transit of the sound was interesting, with the ebbing spring tide demanding full concentration.  At Craobh sorting the boat out (including removing the windlass) was carried out in the rain, which is always a nuisance, then we drove straight to Fife to see how things were with my mum.

Summary:   It had not been the best of trips: 5 days lost to bad weather and we only got to the summits of 2 (or maybe 3) new islands.  The level of gear failure was annoying, and  the windlass ripping out could have been disastrous.  The anxious long motor south was the final touch.  However, we had had a sailing trip and, given the general run of weather this "summer", that itself was an achievement. 

336.3nm logged in 76.9h (4.4kn average) of which 33.7h motoring.

1/5/08   1020 - 1500   Craobh to Dunstaffnage   18.9nm

2/5/08    1030 - 1545   Dunstaffnage to Tobermory   22.5 nm

2008 summary: 700 nm logged.  10 new islands.  A combination of poor weather and working on the new house meant that the boat has been used less than in previous years.

Fuel statistics to date: 821.3 h, 942.4 l giving average endurance of 61.0 h.

Work / improvements: Kiwi pitch reduced again (18 to 17 deg.). 

25/7/08   1615 - 2000   Craobh to Loch Spelve   14.6nm

With Adrian.  Another summer trip, but this time with both of us retired from full time work, so no time pressure - at least that was the theory.  We chose therefore not to use the motor after emerging from Cuan, but to sail slowly across the Firth of Lorne in a variable wind, but mainly NE2.  This died in the entrance to the Loch, so we motored in and anchored behind the island in the NE corner.  Peaceful night.

26/7/08   0550 - 1750   Loch Spelve to Canna   55.5nm

Motored out of the loch in flat calm, up the Firth of Lorne and into the Sound of Mull. 

A slight breeze of S2 appeared, letting us motor sail under genoa, then it gradually strengthened to the point where we could do without the motor.  In the western entrance we had a good close reach in W3 which took us past Ardnamurchan and Muck before dying south of Rum.  The visability then also started to close in

but not before we'd seen groups of basking sharks feeding. 

Canna was clear and looking rather fine in the evening light.

We motored into Canna Harbour and anchored along with 16 other boats. 

A piper on shore entertained us for a while. 

27/7/08   0545 - 1710   Canna to L. Bracadale to L. a Laip   42.5nm    

There can't be many opportunities for "collecting" two islands with the same name on the same day, particularly when they're on opposite sides of the Minch, but that was today's plan.  Motoring out in light winds, we were later able to either sail or motor sail as the wind varied, while we headed north towards Skye, the Cuillin emerging from the mist to catch the early morning light.

  The wind finally died off Talisker,

so we motored into Loch Bracadale and anchored off Wiay. 

Did the hill, getting fine views from the top, then motored out past McLeod's Maidens

and a rather nice waterfall

before crossing the Minch in flat conditions, sighting a number of porpoises, while heading towards Loch a Laip.

The pilot has little good to say of this loch, so we made our way in very cautiously through the narrows and over the shallows and had a look into two of the "possible" anchorages, neither of which we liked, before settling for a position off the jetty at the head of the loch on the Benbecula side.  This, however, gave us a long row over to the nearest landing point on Wiay.  The hill was done under the close scrutiny of a number of bonxies who were not, however, overtly hostile on this occasion.  From the top Eaval could be clearly seen through the slight mist.

On the descent, however, we encountered hordes of particularly annoying flies, a good number of which accompanied us into the dinghy.  On the long pull back I rowed while Adrian attempted to kill them all before we reached Avilion.   

29/7/08   0510 - 1220   L. a Laip to Lochmaddy to Tahay to Rodel   37.2nm 

Motored out of the loch then a mix of motor sailing and sailing took us up the coasts of Benbecula and North Uist.  The visability gradually worsened, with some quite thick fog banks.  On previous visits these could be avoided by keeping well offshore, but not this time.  The patchy fog continued into the entrance to Loch Maddy, where the hills to the south were tantalisingly clear, but the harbour had haar, blowing in on the E3.  A few minutes after we picked up a VB the ferry's foghorn could be heard and she finally appeared about 200m from the roro berth. 

Ashore we disposed of rubbish (not so easy now that the skip has gone from the pier and the Council is into rubbish separation - we later found a big bin nearer to the hotel), filled water and diesel bottles (from a fire hoze and road fuel pump, respectively), bought some food and had a light lunch in the hotel.  We then motored back out into the fog patches and up the coast to the Sound of Harris before feeling our way in between the maze of islands towards Tahay.  Here the fog lifted, and the top gave us reasonably good views,

but within minutes of leaving we were back in the grey blanket, thicker than ever.  In the clearance we has seen a couple of fish farms positioned on our route out, with boats working, so the fog horn was given plenty exercise.  One RIB did emerge from the gloom quite close to us.  Across the Sound the fog thickness varied, then on approaching Harris it cleared completely, and Rodel was entered in bright sunshine.

Our calculations gave us almost an hour before entry would no longer be possible, but even so the weed dragged noticeably on the keel at the bar.  Picked up a VB, visited the rather fine kirk with its medieval carvings,

disturbing a film crew working in the tower, then had dinner in the hotel.

29/7/08   0510 - 1220 Rodel to Loch Tamanavay   33.6nm  

An early start gave us sufficient height of tide to avoid the weed.  A NE3 was blowing, with a strengthening forecast, so after leaving harbour we put in a couple of reefs before setting off up the Stanton Channel.  This gave a fast reach in E4 and poorish visability, which made the navigation "interesting".  The fast progress continued round Toe Head and outside Taransay and Scarp,

but the wind was now E5 gusting 6 and we met big seas coming out of Braigh Mor.  Beating into this was decidedly wet and bouncy.  We were very glad that the day's "maybe" plan of heading out to St. Kilda had not been pursued.  Plans to land on Scarp were shelved, and a diversion made into Loch Tamanavay where a sheltered anchorage was found at the head.  A lazy afternoon followed. 

30/7/08   0650 - 1600   L. T'y to Scarp to Mealasta to Pabay Mor   26.0nm

Initial flat calm saw us motoring out of the loch

and over to Caolus an Scarp

where we anchored north of the narrows, near an anchored French yacht. 

Rowed ashore, having some difficulty lifting the dinghy up the boulders, then did the hill which gave excellent views.  On returning, we could see signs of life on the French boat and, as we prepared to raise anchor the crew of three came over in an outboard-fitted dinghy for a chat.  After about ten minutes of pleasant conversation, during which they said they were also intending to climb Scarp, they left, motoring up the Scarp coast in search, presumably, of a better landing spot than we'd used. 

We went back to preparing to weigh anchor, and I then spotted a motor boat coming towards us from the north at high speed.  Through the glasses the white of the wash on each side was much more prominant than its green hull.  We weighed anchor and, as Adrian stowed it, I motored at about 2 knots northwards.  The mobo still appeared to be coming straight at us: longer inspection made me think that he was going to just miss us to starboard, but much too close for comfort.  What to do?  If he hadn't seen us, a turn to starboard could put us directly into his path.  A turn to port could cause problems if he altered to starboard. 

I turned to port.  Two seconds later he turned to starboard.  I immediately altered 90 degrees to starboard to make the position absolutely clear, and hopefully avoid the "two men in a doorway" scenario.  Some 15 seconds later he barrelled past us to port, clearing us by about 30m and the French yacht by less, with no reduction in his speed, which I would make a rough guess as being around 20 knots.  Immediately he passed I turned into the wake and Adrian confirmed that the resulting pitch put the bow roller deep into the sea.  The French boat was left rolling like a metronome.  We hadn't caught the culprit's name, but the www.Seatrek.co.uk painted on her side was a bit of a giveaway.  The French dinghy was out of sight round the corner and we didn't see it again, so we can only hope that they escaped unharmed. 

I can see that as he was heading towards the rapidly shoaling and narrowing channel he would have a strong preference for keeping close to his original, and probably waymarked, route but why, if his preferred route was congested, could he not slow down?  I got the distinct impression that we were regarded as no more than an inconvenience which he wasn't going to allow to interfere with his normal routine.  While I have considerable sympathy for commercial organisations working in the more remote parts of the country, I do feel that this incident was entirely unnecessary, could easily have resulted in injury or worse, and I can feel a CHIRP report coming on... 

After this excitement an easy genoa reach to Mealista was most welcome. 

We anchored in Caolus an Eilein, on the sandbar extention of the island's beach.  Wind against tide raised a bit of popple making rowing ashore slightly tricky.  The island is small and reaching the top took little time, but the dinghy trip back did.  The tide had slackened, but the wind had strengthened to SE5.  The waves were, however, coming from the South.  A standard ferry glide to edge across the wind would have put the dinghy abreast the waves, risking capsise.  Rowing at an acceptible angle to the waves, it was possible to gain ground to the south, but not to the east.  After a lot of time making no useful progress a solution was eventually found involving rowing rapidly across the waves during lulls, then pointing into the waves when big ones appeared, until finally reaching a position directly upwind of Avilion upon which rowing backwards quickly re-united us.

The day was becoming much more fraught than intended!  Leaving Mealista with few regrets, a fast genoa broad reach took us up the coast in a rough sea which gradually flattened after Aird Brenish.  The fast genoa reach in the now SE4 continued, becoming ever more pleasant as the sea declined, and it was maintained round Gallan Head, into the mouth of West Loch Roag, and north of Pabay Mor before motoring into the recommended anchorage.  An indentation in the rocky shore made a natural dock for the dinghy while we did the hill. 

During the night, however, the wind backed to NE making the anchorage uncomfortable.                  

31/7/08   0725 - 1535   P. Mor to Vacsay to Viua Mor to Bernera Hr   9.8nm

The morning was rainy, but the NE3 was coming straight into the anchorage and bouncing us about, so we motored over to the bay on the west side of Vacsay which gave perfect shelter, then went back to bed to await better weather.  A clearance by late morning let us do the island, which proved to be quite a complex piece of geography. 

Another short motor took us to Vuia Mor which was also quickly done. 

A mix of motoring and motor sailing in NE4 then took us round the north end of Little Bernera and into the natural harbour between it and Great Bernera.  We took this bit slowly, picking our way past rocks and fish cages, but found a good anchorage on the north side past the last of the cages.  We were subsequently to get to know this location quite well!

A slip gave easy landing and we reached the summit of Little Bernera without difficulty, and with little interest shown by the island's herd of cattle.  The presence of the cattle no doubt accounted for the large cleg population, but we managed to smite the great majority of our unwanted guests before being bitten. 

On the way in to the anchorage while I was busy rock spotting Adrian had seen a ruined chapel which we also wanted to look at, but actually finding it took quite a while. 

Some of the burials were fairly recent, and we did wonder about the method used.  A landing craft to the beach then a strenuous carry?  Back aboard we considered visiting Great Bernera (no longer a "real" island, thanks to the causeway), but decided not to.  Peaceful night.    

1/8/08   1600 - 1830   Bernera Harbour to Callanish   7.2nm

Much of the day was wet and windy, which we sat out at anchor, then in late afternoon it started to clear.  We therefore motored out into the now SE3, intending to reach Callanish, but with an attempt at landing on Kearstay en route.  We discovered that an uncharted fish farm now extends over the charted leading line into the inner loch, which could be a bit disconcerting.  An anchorage was obtained in the lee of Kearstay, just north of the narrows between it and Great Bernera with the tide running through at about 1 knot, which let us do the island.  A short motor through rain showers then took us to a very pleasant anchorage to the east of the Bratanish Islands, with the Callanish Stones visible on the skyline. 

A lovely spot and, following a fine sunset, another very peaceful night.

2/8/08   1100 - 2140   Callanish to B. Hbr to Carloway to B. Hbr   12.3nm

In the morning the Standing Stones were duly visited, and were as impressive as expected. 

As we motored out of the narrows between Kearstay and Lewis we saw another boat ahead, tacking up the loch in the NW2.  Naturally we immediately did the same, but it wasn't much of a race since the other boat was a good bit smaller and we overtook easily.  This enjoyable gentle sail took us most of the way back to Bernera Harbour, where we sat out another shower before rowing over to Great Bernera.  A Seatrek RIB was manoevering off the slip awaiting tourists, but in stark contrast to his colleague two days previously, he was friendly, polite and helpful, moving aside to give us an easier line in. 

Ashore we dumped rubbish (bins and toilets about 1 km up road from slip), did the hill, then beat a hasty retreat as heavy rain threatened. 

A W3 gave us a broad genoa reach over to Loch Carloway where we anchored at the head off the loch, south of the pier, and sat out rain for an hour.  A slip gave easy shore access, and a short walk took us to the Dun Carloway broch.  We wondered how many of the stones in the now decaying black houses of the adjoining crofts had once been part of it.  Another short walk took us to the hotel for dinner.  Back aboard the W wind was only F2 - 3, but the seas coming into the loch made the motion unpleasant.  Knowing that the following day was likely to be taxing we really wanted a good night's sleep, so we up-anchored and motored back across through the rain and murk to anchor in Bernera Harbour, nav and steaming lights on for the only time of the trip.  Our third anchorage there was as peaceful as before.  

3/8/08   0540 - 1620   Bernera Harbour to Stornoway   58.1nm

Early start then a long motor sail in SW4 with a moderate swell and lumpy conditions to make sure of getting round the Butt of Lewis before the tide turned.  More of an endurance test than enjoyable, but enlivened for a while by dolphins who came to play at the bow.  The appearance of the lighthouse was welcome.  Off the point, with wind and tide still together, the seas were not significantly worse.

Once round the corner the tide was foul, and the lighthouse stayed in view for a long time as we slowly gained shelter from the swell.  We could now sail: a beam reach then close hauled in a SW generally varying from F2 to F5, with occasional calms requiring the motor.  We could then sail from Cellar Head to the south end of the Eye Peninsula before motoring into Stornoway harbour in a downpour which fortunately passed over before we berthed. 

After some initial confusion on the radio ("You're too big for our pontoons", "We're 30 feet not 30 metres!") we got a visitors berth.  It was The Sabbath, and we feared that the town might be shut, but we had showers before the toilet block closed at 1730, then a good meal at the Indian, and all the pubs seemed to be doing a roaring trade.  This was the first visit to Stornoway for either of us, and we found it better than expected. 

4/8/08   0905   Stornoway to Badachro   41.3nm

I thought about buying some diesel, but by my reckoning we'd plenty, so after a quick shopping expedition we left in sunshine. 

We had debated whether to work our way further down Lewis, picking up more islands, but the long range forecast was not good and the wind seemed fine for crossing the Minch.  So it proved, with a broad reach all the way in NE 3/4.  We anchored in the pool at Badachro and had dinner in the very busy pub.

5/8/08   0645 - 1915   Badachro to Inverie   54.7nm

Motored initially in light following winds, and found ourselves right at the border of two weather systems: the north was under heavy overcast, and we were heading for the sunshine!

We deployed the cruising chute, then the cruising chute and genoa, keeping them both filled on the same side by letting out the chute's tack and sheet to make it fly above the genoa. 

This experiment worked rather well, the N3 / 4 letting us maintain this unusual sail combination nearly to the Skye Bridge, where the wind, as in previous visits, duly died. 

While enjoying the sunshine and pleasant downwind sailing we also appreciated the rather fine passing scenery.  The big Torridon hills:    

Applecross:

And of course Skye:

with the Red Cuillin looking particularly fine:

We had considered spending some time in this area collecting islands, but again the forecast was not good and, while there was no "work on Monday" pressure to get back, we both had other things that wanted doing, so didn't.

After motor sailing through the Kyles with SOG hitting 10 knots, the northerly slowly re-established itself, so we again hoisted the chute, with fine views of Ben Sgritheall to port.

After a few minutes, however, a very strong gust made us recover it fast.  Somewhat put off by this, we then stuck to the genoa.  The wind, which had veered in the gust to NE, now became unstable, blowing from anywhere between NE to NW but with a fairly constant strength of F3 or 4.  We would have liked to have spent the night at Doune, but with a strong NW forecast thought it would be too exposed.  As we passed we could see that no yachts were there, others presumably having similar thoughts.  The fine scenery continued: looking back to Blaven;

then passing this rather fine craft;

before entering Loch Nevis.

We tried to radio the Old Forge, but without reply.  At Inverie we could guess why: the place was heaving!  All VBs were taken, so we anchored at the second attempt, a bit far away.  We wondered if there was any point in trying to eat ashore, but decided to give it a go - if nothing else we could surely get a pint.  As luck had it the table next to the door had just been vacated: we grabbed it and ordered food.  It was well over an hour before the second course finally arrived, but that was a minor detail as the staff were obviously worked off their feet.  It might be "the remotest pub in the UK", but it's certainly not the quietest!

6/8/08   0635 - 1645   Inverie to Tobermory   42.2nm

The NE4 in which we weighed anchor proved to be only a local effect, presumably wind funnelling through the hills.  We motored out of the loch and past Mallaig in a near calm. 

A couple of hours out the normally very reliable Volvo faltered then died.  We immediately deployed the genoa, which gave us just over 1 knot, but at least in the right direction.  The fortunately smooth sea simplified working with head down the engine hatch.  The main tank was low - under 1/8 full.  My Stornoway mental fuel sums were clearly quite wrong.  There was no point now in regretting the failure to physically check the tank, so instead we transferred the 20l of Lochmaddy DERV fuel from the bottles to the tank and changed the primary filter - a messy job at the best of times.  Even double bagged and with a lot of absorbent paper towel included, the old filter managed to slowly leak diesel onto the cockpit sole for the rest of the day. 

After priming and a few false starts the engine seemed to run OK.  The wind had now increased to F2 and I was unhappy about squandering our remaining diesel, so shut down the engine.  There was also the more subtle nagging worry that, while low fuel sloshing about and either stirring up sediment which then choked the filter or simply let the engine gulp air was the most probable fault diagnosis, it was not necessarily correct.  I preferred to keep the now working engine ready for use in harbour, just in case it would not run for long.  I had no more spare filters.  

Fortunately the wind continued to rise, varying between NE3 and 5.  Running under genoa gave steady rather than spectacular progress as we passed Eigg and Muck, and the Ardnamurchan light grew slowly closer and the seas grew lumpier.  At the corner we raised the main, putting in a couple of reefs, brought the wind on to a reach, and the boat took off, hitting 7 knots plus.  The beat into the western entrance to the Sound of Mull was a cracker: NE5, full genoa, dropping the reefed main down the track in the gusts and hauling it up in the lulls.  The Lord of the Glens altered for us, and we began to catch up with a much bigger boat that had full sail set.  In the event they stayed ahead until Tobermory, but only just.

There seemed to be a lot of boats in Tob.  Through the glasses I could see "battle flags" flying.  Christ, it was West Highland Week!  I had forgotten all about it.  If I hadn't wanted fuel and filters we would have simply gone elsewhere - Drumbuie probably.  As things were we could only go in and see.  Adrian asked if he should put out fenders, but I said not yet: we probably wouldn't get a pontoon, but if we did it could be to either side, and in any case Tob's pontoons are fitted with nice rubber strips round them.  Picking our way through the hordes I spied the unoccupied fuel berth with the berthing master on it and decided to sieze the opportunity.  On approaching I was waved off, something about the Poplar Voyager coming in.  A big mobo, we'd seen her on the way in and guessed she was acting as committee boat.  On explaining that we wanted diesel, he relented and radiod to delay Poplar Voyager's difficult run in through the pack.  Very grateful, I spun the boat round for a quick arrival at the dock but only remembered the obvious omission after getting the lines ashore when a helpful spectator asked, "Have ye no got any fenders, son?"  The fuel berth is for some reason the only pontoon that doesn't have a rubber edge...

We took on 42.4l between the bottles and main tank, a small proportion of which landed in the cockpit, then had real difficulty finding a way out through the rafted race fleet.  The only answer to my nieve question, "There wouldn't be any chance of a pontoon, would there?" had been a laugh, so we were looking for an anchorage.  Tobermory's normal anchoring area is very deep, there was an onshore wind, and in any case boats were anchored in every likely and unlikely spot.  We eventually found a completely sheltered, if somewhat crowded, spot in the bay in the SE corner, about a mile from town, and decided that if we were to have any chance of eating ashore it would have to be early.  A small pier and slipway were only a few oar strokes away, the bottom of the slip extremely slippery, then a good footpath took us to Tob.  At the garage I paid for the diesel and bought a couple of filters, then we went into the restaurant above the pub.  They could take us (but later on they were booked solid).

As we were carrying the dinghy back down the slip Adrian fell heavily and hurt his arm.  Which, as he put it, just went nicely with the cracked filling a few days before.  Healthy game, this yachting!  Back aboard, we had a few quiet drams, well out of earshot of the chaos.  Adrian tried to organise bedding that would work with a nearly immobilised shoulder. 

7/8/08   0645 - 1430   Tobermory to Craobh  36.6nm     

We motored out of the harbour seeing no signs of life on board any of the 100 plus boats.  In the Sound of Mull we motored against a foul tide for the first few hours: wind occasionally appeared, but what there was was generally dead on the nose.  The exit from the Sound was completely different: a fast reach in NE5 out into the Firth of Lorne, lots of popple off Duart, and complications from Calmac who insisted on overtaking us to starboard, squeezing between us and Duart Point.  To be charitable, they may have been trying to avoid blanketing us.  The passage down the Firth was really a bit too close to a run to keep both sails happy, but with much tweaking we managed.  Motoring through Easdale and Cuan an hour before the tide turned against us, we then enjoyed a quiet sail back to Craobh.  

Summary:   It had been basically a good trip: only about 1 day lost (in aggregate) to bad weather, a fair bit of new ground covered, and we had got to the summits of 10 new islands.  Running low on fuel was, of course, a silly, and the subsequent faff at Tob wasn't very edifying.  However, there was no gear failure and, given the general run of weather this year, we had really been very lucky. 

472nm logged in 106h (4.5kn average) of which 54.7h motoring.

2007 Summary & highlights

29/4/07   1120 - 1430   Craobh to Craobh  12.0nm 

Short motor calibrating new wind indicator and autohelm.  Before launching the Kiwi pitch was altered from 20 degrees to 18 degrees so new speed / revs table made up. 

4/5/07   1110 - 1610   Craobh to Puildobhraoin   15.9nm

The (greatly curtailed) Chentlemen’s Cruise (version 1).  A gentle sail through the Sound of Luing in SW2 then motored after the wind died.  Met Dave P. (Silkie) in the anchorage.  Dinner in the TnT then drams aboard. 

5/5/07    1610 – 1910   Puildobhraoin to Craobh   14.1 nm

Forecast bad.  Waited for most of the foul tide to pass, then motored through Cuan in SW4.  Arrived back at Craobh well before the threatened F8/9 arrived.

 23/5/07   1035 – 1840   Craobh to Gigha   38.0 nm

Start of the Clyde Expedition / Chentlemen's Cruise (version 2) / 2007 mini cruise 1!  Close hauled down the Sound of Jura in SW4 was quite bouncy.  Weather mixed - quite a lot of rain and poor visability.  Picked up a VB at Ardminish after a lot of faffing around.  Dinner aboard.

24/5/07  0935 - 1635  Gigha to Sanda   35.0 nm

Very wet.  A frustrating beat for a couple of hours in SW4, then a fast close hauled sail south.  The wind died near the Mull of Kintyre so motored for an hour, then sailed to Sanda in a strengthening NW wind.  On anchoring the wind was now NW4 and the motion quite uncomfortable, but the holding seemed OK.  Blew up the dinghy then waited for the best part of an hour to get a lull to paddle ashore.  Walked up to the high point then had a shower at the bunkhouse before dinner in the pub. 

25/5/07   0505 – 1905   Sanda to Inchmarnock, Little Cumbrae & Millport   53.1 nm

An early start to catch the last hour of fair tide through Sanda Sound.  Fast reach up Kilbrannan Sound in W4, but with squally showers.  Dropped the main at the Cock of Arran for the run to Inchmarnock Sound.  Anchored at Inchmarnock just as another squall arrived.  The autohelm failed - clear signs of water ingress - so changed to the spare.  "Did" Inchmarnock, then another genoa run down the west side of Bute with quartering seas giving a 60 degree roll.  Rounded the south point of Wee Cumbrae then anchored in its lee.  Interesting to note that the unpleasant (and now illegal) "private - keep off" signs seen on my last visit have been replaced by decidedly ambiguous notices about conserving nature.  Very jungly climb up the hill, with a great view from the top beside the old lighthouse.  Motored over to Millport and picked up a VB at the first attempt, though not without some fankling.  Dinner ashore.  Distinctly bouncy lying in the W4.  

26/5/07  1120 - 1515   Millport to Holy Island   17.2 nm

Feeling quite queasy - either the motion or something in last night's dinner not agreeing - so had a late start.  Sailed over to Arran in very variable winds.  Anchored, did hill (no confrontation with monks), from the top watched a seaplane land then take off a few minutes later, back aboard shower in the cockpit and dinner.  No communication from Claymore, who I'm supposed to be rendezvousing with, so an hour spent on seemingly endless attempts at sending text messages in poor reception.  The pressure is dropping fast: Holy Island anchorage is very sheltered, but I don't want to stay indefinitely. 

 

27/5/07   1150 - 1720   Holy Island to Campbeltown   27.1 nm

 

Rough at first, so delayed departure.  After clearing Arran some quite lively sailing in NE 4 or 5 with gusts up to 6, but 2 reefs in and the boat felt OK and not over pressed.  Phoned for a berth on the pontoon and was directed into a space that we just fitted.  Dinner in pub.  Options: back round Mull if weather suitable, through Crinan if not (though single handing through locks not easy, so ideally accompanying the fully crewed Claymore (wtf is he?), or leave the boat at Campbeltown and take the bus back to Craobh to collect the car if weather really bad.

 

28/5/07   1125 - 1435   Campbeltown to Sanda   11.1 nm

 

Internet access at library so much studying of weather maps.  Shopping (sorry, laying in stores) then left in a N3 breeze which promptly died.  Some motoring round into Sanda Sound then anchored in N4.  Quite rough.   The sun was out, however, so the failed autohelm could be dismantled, dried out with paper towels, and the circuit board left lying in the sun and wind for an hour.  Problem solved!  (But why aren't autohelms waterproof?)  Cockpit shower then dinner in the pub after another "delicate" row ashore.

 

29/5/07   0900 - 1815   Sanda to Cara & Gigha   35.8 nm

 

Still no word from Claymore, so caught start of tide in Sanda Sound.  Quite rough round the Mull in NW4, knocking the wind out of the sails.  Much beating northwards with painfully slow progress.  Anchored at Cara, did the hill, then motored to Gigha.  VB picked up at 3rd attempt - system still not right!  Dinner in pub. 

 

30/5/07   0845 - 1505   Gigha to Craobh   32.6 nm

 

Initially good progress in SW4, very broad reach under genoa only.  Some motoring in calm patch, then beam reach under full sail.  Motor for last hour in the rain.  Overall quite a good mini cruise! 

 

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23/6/07   0940 - 1240   Craobh to Puildobhraoin   12.8 nm

 

Mostly motoring icw Shard.  Dinner in TnT

 

24/6/07   1205 - 1510   Puildobhraoin to Craobh   12.2 nm

 

Good run under genoa in NE4 (with motor through Cuan) but wet and misty.

 

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15/7/07   1255 - 1705   Craobh to Luing to Craobh   9.9 nm

 

Motor to Cuan, passing south of the Cleit Rock, then anchored off the boathouse.  Walked to the high point of Luing (after some unpleasantness with the boathouse owner and an encounter with an unmarked electric fence).  Motored back.

 

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5/8/07   1440 - 1940   Craobh to Lochaline   25.7 nm

 

With Stuart.  Motored in rain and calm via Cuan.  Anchored and met up with Shard.  Dinner in pub.  Drams aboard.  More rain. 

 

6/8/07   0940 - 1530   Lochaline to Craobh   24.8 nm

 

Motored out of loch then genoa run back to Craobh in N4/3 via Cuan.  Rain.

       

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11/8/07   1040 - 1845   Craobh to Sound of Islay   35.9 nm

 

With Calum.   S2 at first so mix of sailing and motoring through Grey Dogs and down the W coast of Jura and the Sound of Islay.  Anchored behind An Fraoch Eilean in SW3 and pouring rain.  Very wet.  Dinner and drams aboard.

 

12/8/07   1010 - 1620   Sound of Islay to Craobh   30.9 nm

 

Much better weather.  Left to suit tides, taking the last of the ebb out of the Sound of Islay then an hour or so of slack before the new flood developed up the Sound of Jura.  Excellent fast sail: beam reach in NW 4 gusting 5, flat water, full genoa and 0, 1 or 2 reefs in main as required.  Some showers, but mostly fair.

 

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20/8/07   0740 - 1810   Craobh to Ulva Sound   53.8 nm

 

With Adrian.  Start of 2007 mini cruise 2!  An early start, motor sailing to catch the last of the flood through the Sound of Luing in NE2.  After leaving the Garvellochs to port we had a fast beam reach a few miles off the Mull coast as a N4 established itself then gradually strengthened. 

We were overtaken by our old (and large!) pal the Yeoman Bridge.

On reaching the Ross it was N6 so we took the inshore route to get a greater lee,

carefully noting the Torrans where great gouts of spray looked very dramatic. 

We expected the Sound of Iona to be rough, and indeed it was as we motored through, dead to windward but with the tide.

Once clear of the northern entrance we could set a close hauled course which almost laid Ulva Sound.  The lumpy sea meant a fairly bouncy motion, but this gradually reduced as we got closer in to Ulva, putting in a couple of short tacks as necessary. 

2007 summary: 771 nm logged.  10 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 749.5 h, 848.0 l giving average endurance of 61.9 h.

Work / improvements: AIS and battery monitor fitted, Kiwi pitch reduced (20 to 18 deg.), fuel suction line joints re-made and primer bulb fitted, engine earth connection re-made, windlass hand control re-terminated.  

11/7/06   Home to Kirkwall

Bus to Glasgow, train to Inverness, train to Thurso, free taxi to John o' Groats (via Castle of Mey),

 ferry to Burwick then bus to Kirkwall.

12/7/06   Kirkwall

After doing some shopping, I paid for another two nights berthing, and then sat out bad weather as it blew W 6/7. 

The wireless museum was visited - very interesting.  Amongst the many fascinating objects was a 1960s  juke box from the Pomona Cafe: I could remember with the greatest nostalgia almost all of the music then on offer - sad or what?

13/7/06   1505 - 2020   Kirkwall to Pierowall   29.5 nm

After impatiently waiting for the wind to drop, I eventually left in a declining W6.  Adverse tide in The String was followed by favourable up the lee side of (still unvisited!) Shapinsay with the wind now NW5.  Through Eday Sound then Calf Sound (4.5 knot tide) in smooth water, then I met big seas at the north entrance.  Motor assistance was required to make any way, and a very wet passage followed.  The seas gradually diminished as closing Westray reduced the fetch, and the wind dropped to NW3.  Tied up at Pierowall marina and was met by Colin and James.  A late night followed, with dinner in the pub and subsequent drams.

14/7/06   0835 - 1740   Pierowall to Otters Wick   28.2 nm

A pleasant reach in SW3 took me to South Wick, Papa Westray where I picked up a VB.  Ashore (without my camera, annoyingly) I did the hill while fending off skuas, then visited the Knap of Howar - Europe's oldest house, apparently.  Another good reach took me over to North Ronaldsay, but with some foul tide and a quite lumpy sea.  Anchoring fairly near the pier gave a slightly marginal dinghy trip ashore in the onshore S4.  A quick walk to the high point was followed by a hard row back to the boat.  I then motored across to Sanday where a long dinghy (motor) ashore was followed by an even longer walk to The Wart.  The boat was finally rejoined at 2200 for a very late dinner aboard.

15/7/06   0840 - 1510   Otters Wick to St. Catherine's Bay   29.0 nm

Motored out of Otters Wick in S2 with some genoa assistance, then a long close hauled leg in S3 took me past Holms of Ire and Red Head.  After motoring between Red Holm and Eday I anchored off the jetty on Fara. 

The hill was easy with fine views, but the whole island was absolutely covered in sheep sh!t: I towed my sandals behind the boat for an hour afterwards.  Favourable tide gave fast progress motor sailing down the west side of Eday then, entering St. Catherine's Bay, I passed a rather fine gaff cutter that was leaving. 

Linga Holm was quickly visited - more views of the Sanday turbines - then an early dinner after a peaceful G&T sitting in the sun and watching the seals. 

16/7/06   0745 - 0920   St. Catherine's Bay to Whitehall Harbour   7.2 nm

Summary:   It had been a long and rather complicated trip.  The outward leg up the spectacular North West coast was splendid, and exploring the Orkneys was fun. The weather was kind in the main, and there were no significant gear failures.  All transport deadlines were met, and the summits of 26 new islands were reached.

773nm logged in 170.3h (4.5kn average) of which 104.2h motoring.

Retirement from full-time work at the end of May gave me the opportunity of a longer and more ambitious summer trip than in previous years.  I still had to fit round some other commitments, though: a conference in Newcastle and several meetings in London. And the boat had to be back in Craobh for the Mountaineering Club meet at the beginning of August.  With careful timing and a bit of luck, however, it should all be feasible, but sailing to a deadline is always an added worry!

23/6/06   0920 - 1900   Craobh to Sanna Bay  49.2 nm

With Adrian.  Took on 29 l of diesel then motored through Cuan Sound.  NW4 in Firth of Lorne and Sound of Mull gave good sailing and fast progress.  Anchoring at the 2^nd attempt in Sanna Bay, I found conditions considerably better than on my previous visit in 1985.  Dinner aboard.

24/6/06   0755 - 1855   Sanna Bay to Plockton   53.2 nm

Wind mainly SW3 gave mostly very broad reaches with occasional tacks downwind.  Few other boats about in the Sound of Sleat but occasional tantalising glimpses of bits of the higher hills behind Sleat gave much entertainment of the "name the hill" variety. 

Through the Kyles in heavy showers, and then going under the Skye Bridge we met a stream of tugs and other work boats heading in: clearly lousin time!  New territory from here on: coasting up the Duirinish peninsula then into Loch Carron in clearing weather.  I was a bit concerned that Plockton might be a bit crowded, but in fact there was plenty room, and we  anchored just off a new-looking pontoon, inflated the dinghy and rowed to the pontoon for an easy arrival ashore followed by dinner in the hotel. 

25/6/06    0640 - 2045   Plockton to Aultbea   62.5 nm

Motoring in calm at first across Loch Carron and between the Crowlins and Applecross, then beating against a cold northerly 3/4 up the submarine range between Applecross and Raasay / Rona.  No exercises in force.  Port tack took us across the mouth of Loch Torridon, then starboard took us close inshore towards, and then past, Red Point.  After tacking up to Longa we motored through Caolas Beag and anchored in Longa Sound to do the island - tremendous views from the top in all directions.  Seeing the Torridon hills from the seaward direction was particularly satisfying. 

We had noticed a tent as we paddled ashore, and we then met its owner who, like us, was collecting islands - with the variation that he considered that "doing" an island required an overnight stay.  Each to his own!   We had also seen Navtex messages about a Nato exercise, and the afternoon's long beat up to Ruadh Reidh was enlivened by a curious exchange over the VHF with a warship of undetermined nationality.  A series of increasingly odd questions culminated in a request that we supply details of our cargo and manifest!  

Once round the point we could free sheets, but motor assistance was required to make any way in the steep confused seas off the peninsula's North coast.  After Loch Ewe was reached we entered it on a fast broad reach, dodging an emerging minesweeper at the narrows.  We anchored right in front of the hotel, providing some interest for the tourists, and had dinner there at 2100 without difficulty.  Many interesting historic naval photos on the walls.

26/6/06   0830 - 1900   Aultbea to Achiltibuie   24.5 nm

Motoring across to Isle Ewe we could see from the summit quite a few navel vessels heading off in various directions.  More beating in N3 then took us to Greenstone Point after which we could hold a close reach to Priest Island.  Did the island - surprisingly rugged - and found that long heather and shorts is not a good combination: scarted legs nip in salt water!  The view from the top was ample compensation, however:

A pleasant beam reach took us south of Horse Island followed by a short beat up the sound.  From Horse Island's summit we had a good view of the ferry leaving Ullapool and passing through the Summer Isles.  Motored over to anchor by Achiltibuie pier, then a fast 1 1/2 mile walk got us to the pub 5 minutes before last dinner orders at 2030

27/6/06   0705 - 1545   Achiltibuie to Handa   31.5 nm

Motored across to Tanera Mor and anchored in front of the pier. 

Did hill, then motored round to Tanera Beag.  It proved to be quite steep and rugged, but with remarkably good paths and more fine views.

Motoring north in near calm between various islands we passed a Norwegian gunboat in dazzle camouflage.  Our friendly waves were ignored.  A breeze of W2 then gave some sail assistance, but basically it was motoring north taking the direct route from Rubha Mor to Stoer with tremendous  views of the Sutherland hills;

 then past Stoerhead and the Old Man:

 and into Handa Sound.  The recommended anchorage was occupied, so we anchored off the beach where the tourist ferry lands.  (When later seen from the shore it was obvious that there would actually have been room for several boats in the normal anchorage, and in fact by the time we returned the other boat had gone, but in the prevailing light conditions we saw no need to move.) 

 A jet ski playing in the ferry's wake then circled us with a cheery wave.  Apparently he'd spent most of the day chasing the ferry, and quite clearly had absolutely no idea that he was being annoying.  Ashore we were given strict instructions about the nature reserve status of Handa: the summit is not on the normal tourist route, apparently.  The walk round by the cliffs was very impressive - the Great Stack is quite something - and the island summit was reached surreptitiously from the far side, commando style, to avoid confrontations.  Dinner aboard.

28/6/06   0645 - 1630   Handa to Talmine   38.9 nm

Motoring north through Handa Sound in light northerlies let us see some of the cliffs from below, then we crossed the mouth of Loch Inchard with Foinaven and Arkle unfortunately shrouded in mist.  Up the coast inshore of Sgeir am Balg gave us views of some impressive stacks and other rocky oddities.  Rounding Cape Wrath generated a real feeling of achievement, though the conditions were relatively gentle with just some swell at the headland itself. 

We then motor sailed in N2 through the bombing range.  The range control vessel's VHF transmission was surprisingly weak, but we calculated that we would be clear of the 5 mile exclusion zone before the 1100 bombardment.  This didn't stop him calling us back half an hour later to ask if we could go a bit faster!  The yacht which was following half an hour behind us gave them more of a problem, and when the jets arrived they circled around for 20 minutes or so before starting to knock lumps out of An Garbh Eilean.  Very noisy, but surprisingly little smoke or light, though eventually the island was completely shrouded in a dust cloud.  The anchorage at Eilean an Ron was very tight so we took a line ashore, attaching it to the handrail of the landing steps. 

Did island: it was evacuated around the same time as St. Kilda and has its own crescent of abandoned houses, and also a rather fine view of Ben Hope.

 We then motored past the Rabbit Isles to Talmine.  A lengthy walk took us to the pub which served an excellent dinner - recommended.

29/6/06   0820 - 1710   Talmine to Stromness   44.7 nm

A delayed departure while showers went through was to give us tidal problems later.  The crossing to Orkney was mostly motoring with some sail assistance in the light northerlies.  Dolphins accompanied us for 20 minutes, playing in the bow wave.  We detoured via the west coast of Hoy to look at the Old Man and the cliffs of St. John's Head. 

By now the tide was ebbing, so we crossed to the north side of Hoy Mouth, clear of the tide race, then motored east, keeping between the shallows to port and the standing waves of the rost to starboard.  Initially these tactics worked, and a local fishing boat ahead doing the same thing gave us reassurance that attempting to cheat the tide was possible.  The tide was strengthening, however, and at The Ness, despite full throttle, our SOG became 0.  Fortunately the wind then sprang up and sails and engine together gave us almost 1 knot OG which let us crawl up to the entrance to Stromness.  At this point the ferry left its berth!  Fortunately we were by now out of the worst of the tide and able to cross clear in front of it to lurk by Outer Holm until it passed.  An object lesson, if one was required, in the need to take Orkney tides seriously! 

Stromness marina was impressive: high tech security arrangements both for the pontoons and the excellent shower block.  We paid for two weeks of Orkney berthing - which includes all marinas and piers - then had dinner in the recommended nearby cafe followed by pints in the hotel overlooking the harbour.  Around midnight, for no very obvious reason, the skipper of a big fishing boat decided to put on all his lights and run his engine at high revs for the best part of an hour.  He'd no apparent wish to go anywhere, he seemed to just want to play with it.  

30/6/06   1035 - 1905   Stromness to Rysa Sound   12.4 nm

Diesel was available by barrow from the local garage: which is a fine arrangement, but does require estimating how much is needed.  We bought 35 l which left us about 4 l short of full.  After also filling with water and doing a little shopping (all Stromness' Parmezan cheeze had apparently been recalled) we motored in quite strong wind round Graemsay to Whanness.  On Hoy we did Ward Hill by a steep route that gave a bit of easy scrambling, and from the summit we could see a number of dive boats over the blockships and other wrecks in Burra Sound.

We then had a look at the weird Dwarfie Stane which has an entrance passage and two bed-sized internal chambers carved from the solid rock - not bad given that it was fashioned before metal tools were invented! 

After a late lunch aboard we motored to Cava, where after doing the "hill" we came across the remains of a wartime military establishment: now just the concrete bases of the buildings left - and a single urinal, defiantly standing alone.   We then crossed to Rysa Sound where we anchored for the night.  Dinner aboard.

1/7/06   0730 - 1325   Rysa Sound to St. Margaret's Hope   13.4 nm

Motored through Rysa Sound and anchored at the NW end of Fara.  Did Fara, which like all these essentially flat islands gave wide views, as here looking over to Longhope:

On returning to the dinghy we collecting an abandoned fender from the beach.  Rowing back we passed seals making a series of orgasmic "oh, oh, oh!" sounds, although they didn't appear to be actually doing anything other than pointing their noses in the air.  Motored to Flotta and anchored between the piers.  Did the hill - which gave fine views of the oil terminal! - and looked at the concrete shell of a large cinema: more wartime remains.  Scapa Flow was a fortress with thousands of service personnel, and countless tons of concrete are left to testify to it all.  Early lunch aboard.  By now the wind was rising and the forecast was poor, so we abandoned plans for other islands and sailed under reefed genoa to St. Margaret's Hope.  Anchored in the bay and, since it was too rough for the dinghy, stayed aboard sitting out the SE 6/7.

2/7/06   0800 - 1855   St. Margaret's Hope to Kirkwall   45.1 nm  

After a carefully timed departure to catch favourable tide in the Pentland Firth we motor sailed in light Northerlies through the Sound of Hoxa past an endless series of pill boxes and gun emplacements.  Entering the Firth between Swona and South Ronaldsay, it was annoying to find the tide at the Lother Rock still foul an hour later than predicted.  A very sloppy sea confirmed the Pentland Firth's reputation.  A mix of sailing and motor sailing took us up the east coast of South Ronaldsay and well offshore of the Churchill Barriers in mainly NE3.  After anchoring in Horse Sound we did Copensay, meeting a sizeable party of kids celebrating a 12^th birthday with a day on an uninhabited island.  It sounded a great idea! 

 Good views from the lighthouse and an impressive ternery, but no signs of corncrake despite the special field planting designed to encourage their return.  Motor sailing in N2 took us past Mull Head, across the mouth of Deer Sound where a Fisheries Protection Vessel was lurking, into Shapinsay Sound, through The String then inside Thief's Holm to Kirkwall.  Another splendid marina.  After some delay in checking in (necessary to get a key for the showers at the sailing club) we eventually had dinner in the Indian at 2130.

3/7/06  0955 - 1630   Kirkwall to Rousay   18.3 nm

After a departure delayed by blethering we tacked up Broad Firth in N3 to anchor in a super little bay on  Gairsay. 

Did the hill, then more beating took us to Wyre.  The anchorage was very shallow - with hindsight tying to the pier might have been a better bet - and the hill was done at high speed for fear of the boat grounding in the interim.  Because of this we omitting a visit to the remains of Cubbie Roo's castle - the oldest stone built castle in Scotland, apparently.  Motoring across to Rousay we picked up a VB with very fankled pick up lines.  Did the hill - fine views - and visited a chambered cairn before dinner in the pub.  

4/7/06   0715 - 1910   Rousay  to Kirkwall   25.0 nm

After a reasonably early start we motor sailed to Egilsay, anchoring at the second attempt near the pier.  Ashore we went to the high point (or as near as possible since there is a house built on it) then visited St. Magnus' Church which is a distinctive landmark, identifying Egilsay from miles around.

Motoring through the north end of Rousay Sound we found depth worryingly less than charted, then a fast sail in SE4 took us to Fersness Bay, Eday.  The planned anchorage was too rough for the dinghy, so we moved across to the windward side of the bay which gave flat water but a longer walk to reach the hill. 

Quiet tarred roads took us past the airfield (London Airport!) and past denser growths of bog cotton than either of us had ever seen before.

The summit of Ward Hill, eventually reached, gave fine views over to Sanday and Stronsay, each with a clutch of big wind turbines.  The return passage across the Stronsay Firth was close hauled with wind against tide, very fast sailing but uncomfortable.  The visibility deteriorated just as the navigation became tricky, and it was cold.  For the second time Shapinsay was passed without landing.  Back in Kirkwall, dinner ashore.

5/7/06   Kirkwall

20 l of diesel was bought from the very helpful oil depot and fetched in bottles (about 2 l short of full).  We were then joined by Colin, who took us for a run to visit the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm

then gave us the use of his car while he went to a meeting in St. Margaret's Hope.  Adrian and I then drove to the fascinating Tomb of the Eagles

and rejoined Colin for lunch in the pub.  Back at Kirkwall Colin plugged in his laptop and used the boat as an office while we visied St. Magnus' Cathedral

and the town museum.  We then drove to the closest access point for doing Ward Hill which gave us a fine view of Hoy Mouth in rather more gentle mood than when we experienced it. 

On the way back we briefly visited the Ring of Brodgar. 

Dinner in Chinese, then pints in a "theme pub".

6/7/06   Kirkwall to Home

Colin left early for the Westray ferry, then Adrian and I took the bus to Burwick, ferry to John o' Groat's,

bus to Thurso,

train to Inverness then train to Stirling where Alison picked us up.

2006 Summary & highlights

23/4/05   1055 - 1400   Craobh to Craobh  12.0nm

Test run with new mainsail, feathering prop and repaired Autohelm (broken plastic bracket now reinforced with an aluminium plate).    All seem fine.  Speed / revs table made up. 

28/4/06   1005 - 1605   Craobh to Scallasaig   32.6nm

With Kathie & Jill.  The Chentlemen�s Cruise.  Motored through Cuan in company with Claymore, then close hauled N of Garvellachs heading for Sound of Iona in a quite bumpy NW4.  Plans then changed, and we diverted to Scallasaig where cockpit parties on all four boats were followed by a good night at the pub.  I had left before the incident with the gentleman from Wigan so really cannot comment!

29/4/06    0800 � 1755   Scallasaig to Ardfern   44.5 nm

Mainly motoring with some genoa assistance to, then through, the Sound of Islay.   Rafted up against Claymore on Craighouse pier then lunch in the pub.   On departure met Shard and Silkie and had an excellent sail up the Sound of Jura in NW5, arriving at Ardfern within minutes of each other.   The luff of the new sail has an annoying tendency to �motor� and I can�t see what to do about it.   Dinner in the pub then drams aboard Silkie.   (It should have been my turn to host the party, but Kathie was asleep and I didn�t want to disturb her�

30/4/06   1155 � 1625   Ardfern to Balvicar   16.8 nm

The Dorus Mor was quite bouncy and made direction keeping difficult.  A boat coming through the other way didn�t help!  The forecast bad weather failed to materialise, however: in fact S2 gave a very gentle sail from the Dorus Mor through Shuna Sound to Balvicar where we picked up a buoy.  Kathie then ferried people to and from the Tighe na Truish where an excellent evening was had.

1/5/06   1235 � 1350   Balvicar to Craobh   5.6 nm

With Jill.  After visiting the Bowles a short motor took us back to Craobh.  Another most enjoyable cruise!

6/5/06   0904 � 1650   Craobh to Cuan Mor Bay   32.7 nm

E4 gave a fine down wind sail via the Sound of Luing to Loch Tarbert, Jura.   Following the leading lines towards the narrows showed a discrepancy with their charted position; worth investigating later!   Good, peaceful anchorage.

7/5/06   1020 � 1710   Cuan Mor Bay to Craobh   31.8 nm

Mostly beating in F3/4 along N side of Jura then through Corryvreckin back to Craobh.  Another fine sunny day.

3/6/06   0855 - 1455   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   29.5 nm

Initial plan of rendezvousing at Gigha with J McP aborted on receiving phone call just south of Reisa.  Fortunately, W wind allowed progress against tide back past Reisa and up Sound of Luing for Puilldobhraoin.  Excellent evening in T n T, celebrating my retirement of a week ago apart from anything else.

4/6/06   1505 - 1825   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   13.8 nm

Gentle sail then motor to make tide through Cuan Sound.

Summer Cruise

4/8/06   1050 � 1715   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   12.0 nm  

With Robert and Mike.   BoFMC Sailing Meet.   Motored with some genoa assistance through Cuan to Easdale.  Picked up VB and had lunch in Oyster Brewery on Seil then visited Easdale Island and the pub there!  Mix of sailing and motoring to Puilldobhrain.  Joined by Starlight then dinner in pub and met up with other BFs. 

5/8/06  1145 � 2100   Puilldobhraoin to Lochaline   19.6 nm

With Robert, Mike, Lucy and Dave.   After sitting out bad weather, sailed to Duart Bay in mainly SW3/2.  Landed hillwalking party, then sailed round to Scallastle Bay to pick them up.    Weather now SW4 and getting bumpy.  Sailed across to Lochaline, arriving late for dinner, but pub very kindly served us and even gave us a lift from the sand mine!

6/8/06   1310 � 1925   Lochaline to Craobh   29.2 nm

Problems getting anchor up.  Windlass happy to lay chain but reluctant to lift it.  Suspected low battery, and left it charging while we had lunch, but no better.  Pulled up the chain manually � a good reminder of just how useful the windlass is � then had a good sail in NW4 down the Sound of Mull and Sound of Luing.  At Craobh the windlass was found to be unwilling to operate in the up direction even under no load, but after a bit of jiggling it suddenly started to work again.  I really dislike intermittant faults!

12/8/06   0815 � 1630   Craobh to Loch Tarbert, Jura   42.0 nm

Very fast sail down Sound of Jura in NW 4/5 � 20.1 miles logged in 3 hours � then hard beat up Sound of Islay.  Very bouncy and wet at north end; heaved to for a while and just let the tide carry me north � much more comfortable.   Motored through Cumhain Mor then anchored just inside on the N side at the second attempt.  All the pitching in the Sound of Islay had thrown my tripping line into the chain locker, and it got dragged into the windlass: 15 minutes of fun followed, unfankling it while another boat pinched the anchoring spot I had been aiming for!  Two shore trips with much thrashing about in the bracken to establish the positions of 4 of the transit beacons then dinner.

13/8/06   0900 � 1625   Loch Tarbert to Craobh   28.9 nm

Motored through narrows then anchored off the third transit.  Brief shore trip to get the beacon positions , then motored out of Loch.  Attempted to sail but wind very fluky and sea bouncy.  Motor sailed through Corryvreckin 1 hour after the flood started � 3 kn of foul tide and increasing fast! 

19/8/06   1015 � 2030   Craobh to Oronsay   33.9 nm

With Calum.  Pleasant sail to Sound of Luing, then beat through with tidal assistance.  Stopped at Eilean an Naoimh for lunch and a trip ashore.  On returning met Dave with Silkie.  Windlass misbehaved again so chain lifted manually then sailed towards Oronsay until wind died.  Motored into the south facing anchorage in flat calm to be welcomed by voracious midges � most unpleasant and not at all normal, boats are usually pretty well midge free!  Joined by Dave who rafted up.  Message from Jim that he had engine problems and would stop at Scallasaig.  Dinner aboard.

20/8/06   1615 � 2005   Oronsay to Craighouse   20.1 nm

Joined by Jim who also rafted up and a large communal breakfast was consumed.  Shore trip to look at Priory, then left to catch tide down Sound of Islay.  Lifted the anchor using Jim�s windlass � an interesting exercise in combined tactics, but probably not worth repeating!  Close hauled down Sound in SW3, quite fast, then wind died at south end.  Motored into Craighouse overtaking other boats in time to grab the second last buoy and first Silkie then Starlight rafted up.  Dinner in pub (just in time) then very wet dinghy trip in heavy rain back aboard.  Drams.

21/8/06   1040 � 1610   Craighouse to Craobh   24.7 nm

Left with tide in light wind, but after an hour it picked up to give a good beam reach up the Sound of Jura in NNW3/4.   Removed the anchor then the windlass en route, taking the latter home to strip down.  [A seized bearing was eventually found: this is described as a "needle roller clutch bearing" and has the curious property of allowing its shaft to turn one way only.  So when seized up, that is actually correct behaviour for one direction, which is why the windlass operated OK one way.  Cleaning it out and re-packing with grease seemed to do the trick.  Re-installed on the boat 1/9/06 but poor weather so no trial in earnest.  An emergency manual recovery handle has now also been bought which should cover any future failures: single handed in strong wind the chain would be impossible to pull up unaided.] 

Another funny developed, this time from the normally entirely reliable engine .  Every few minutes the revs would suddenly drop by c. 200 or so then slowly recover.  At Craobh we took on 53 l of diesel - my biggest fill ever - and speculated as to whether the abnormally low tank level could have had something to do with the problem.  

[2006 summary: 1335 nm logged.  26 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 676.3 h, 754.6 l giving average endurance of 62.7 h.]

Work / improvements: relay fitted to operate the fridge and dehumidifier when on shore power.  

30/6/05   2105 - 2305   Craobh to Puildobhraoin   11.6nm

With Adrian.  Yet another summer trip started in a rush.  This time an annoyingly altered meeting date put our start back by a day, then a nasty deep depression was forecast.  We should just about have time to get to Lochmaddy (where Robert planned to join us) before its arrival but there would be very little margin - so no hanging about, then!  As soon as everything could be piled on board we motored out and headed for Cuan, stowing as we went.  The genoa gave some assistance in the SW3, and in other circumstances the motor would have been off.  Dusk arrival in Puildobhraoin, quick snack, quicker dram and asleep by midnight.

1/7/05   0455 - 1940   Puildobhraoin to Loch Skipport   88.5nm

 Up at first light and off under motor and genoa in SW4 across the Firth of Lorne and up the Sound of Mull.  In the Sound the wind dropped to SW1 for a time, but by the time we cleared the western entrance it was back to SW4 giving us a cracking beam reach with the engine finally silenced.  The wind stayed steady for the rest of the day, and the sea was, at most, moderate so the boat slipped along at or near to hull speed, making little fuss about it.  We opted for the direct route past Oigh Sgeir to Loch Skipport, where we reckoned that Wizard Pool should give reasonable shelter if the depression arrived early and we had to sit it out.  If, however, it was still performing on schedule, then another early start (after a decent sleep, however) should see us in Lochmaddy before it arrived.   

One boat was in the Pool before us - a proper long distance cruising sort - and, after we anchored, they hailed to invite us aboard for a drink.  In any other circumstances this would have been most welcome, but our dinghy was still deflated and we had wanted to keep it that way until Lochmaddy.  There was also the time issue: we badly wanted our dinner, sleep, and an early start in that order.  After a few more shouted exchanges, however, they rowed over to us, and we felt quite mortified as we helped aboard what turned out, in fact, to be a distinctly elderly couple.  Some glasses of wine later we felt a bit better, as we were able to show them the forecast chart of the expected depression - which wasn't yet being mentioned on the Shipping Forecast, and the extra warning might allow them to shift or reinforce their anchorage as they felt best.  Several more glasses of wine later and we really had no choice but to start cooking dinner.  Dusk had long fallen by the time we rather anxiously saw our guests safely back on their own boat.  So much for the early night.

2/7/05   0620 - 1040   Loch Skipport to Lochmaddy   24.0nm    

Waking up was desperately hard, and we missed our planned c. of d. start.  Motor sailing all the way in E3 we arrived in Lochmaddy to find all the VBs taken.  We settled for an anchorage in the middle of South Basin, carefully selecting a spot combining shelter with a reasonable offing from all shores, since each in turn would be to leeward as the wind veered.  The anchor seemed to be holding firmly as I steadily built up reverse revs but, just before reaching full power, it suddenly started dragging.   Now I have experienced similar behaviour in apparently solid holding on a number of occasions over the years, and I had started to question the merit of excessive motoring to "dig it in".  The alternative theory of leaving the thing alone (other than a moderate pull to check that it was actually hooked into the bottom and not fouled) seemed increasingly attractive.  Certainly the solid mud brought up on the recovered anchor seemed good quality.  We re-laid, carefully checked there was no movement with sustained half astern revs, then shut down the engine.  This would certainly test the theory.

Dinghy inflated, we were propelled the mile to the landing place by the electric outboard.  Not very fast but quiet.  The wind was still E3 but with some stronger gusts and it was raining steadily.  After a brief shopping trip and a quick lunch in the pub the rain was heavy and the wind was E4 gusting 5.  A combination of rowing and motor assistance took as a slanting course to windward over the now choppy water back to the boat.  It was a hard row: without the motor it would have been quite exhausting.  We hoisted the dinghy on to the davits and lashed it in place, then checked that all other loose gear was well tied down.  The mainsail cover was put on and lashings applied over it; the rolled genoa was also lashed.  We were in 5m depth and had 35m of 8mm chain out to the 16kg Delta.  We would see...

By 2000 the wind had risen to E9 gusting 10.  The fetch up Loch Maddy was making the boat bounce in the swell, as well as yaw wildly; each yaw ending with a sickening roll as the wind pushed us over.  We were thrown about the cabin and the screaming in the rigging was hard on the nerves.  The chartplotter was left on in "anchorwatch" mode to alert us if we started dragging.  Although there was little chance of falling asleep, it provided more than just added reassurance: no useable transits were available after dark.

Around 2200 the wind veered, eventually settling at SW8.  Without the fetch the motion eased noticeably, but some swell still ran in for an hour or two.  Other than moving round on her chain, the boat's position appeared to be unchanged. 

3/7/05   Lochmaddy

At 0400 we had SW9, and by 0600 this had veered to NW9 gusting 10.  This was evidently a well behaved, classic deep depression.  Again there was no sign of real boat movement, but the screaming in the rigging rose an octave as each gust hit.  As is so often the case the strong and gusty NW wind then persisted, only slowly reducing through the day: F8 at 1200, F7 at 1800, F6 at 2200.  By now the noise and motion were relatively negligible and sleep followed quickly.

4/7/05   1330 - 1855 L'maddy to Cheese Bay, Hermistray, Rodel   16.5nm  

We woke to a fine clear day and assessed the damage on deck.  The (replacement - see 1/5/05) anchor strop was gone, as were the lashings from the genoa and some of those from the main.  There was a small tear in the main where part of the cover had flogged, and much abrasion was evident everywhere.  The dinghy was OK, thankfully.  We recovered the anchor with great difficult, tripping the overcurrent breaker in the process.  When it eventually emerged, it was evident that it had been very deeply buried - and obviously subjected to far more force than motoring against it could possibly achieve.  Convinced by this admittedly one-off, but fairly dramatic test, I have never since set the anchor using more than half revs.  We then headed for the VBs but were immediately startled by an alarm - the forgotten anchorwatch was doing exactly what it had been asked to!  

We rafted up to one of the moored boats and compared experiences, then collected Robert when the Ullapool ferry arrived - the first crossing in 24 hours.  Later, over a quick pint in the pub, we talked to the singlehander who was on the very close-in VB.  With no possibility of manoevering clear if his mooring had parted, he had spent the night wearing a lifejacket and a small sac of valuables, ready to jump ashore the moment his boat piled up.  In the event his mooring proved OK, but the experience had left him most unhappy.

Departing in a brief gust of SW5, we exited the loch and ran north in SW4, then felt our way into Cheese Bay.  After a brief lunch stop we crossed to Hermistry, "did" the island, then broad reached across the entrance to the Sound of Harris in S4.  We transited the shallow entrance to Rodel harbour rather gingerly and picked up a VB.  An excellent meal in the recently-renovated pub followed. 

5/7/05   0755 - 1825   Rodel to Ensay to Killigray to Taransay   26.1nm

We motored out of Rodel and through the Stanton Channel in SE2, carefully observing the series of long transits and comparing the plotter image with reality, before diverting to Ensay.  After a quick ascent followed by lunch we then motored through the rather tortuous channel to Killigray.  The anchorage here was tidal - 2.4nm logged while at anchor!  Another quick ascent.  On the summits of both islands Robert used the locally good mobile phone reception to negotiate a job change in Edinburgh - a weird juxtaposition of subjects and places.  We motored then sailed past Toe Head as the wind increased to NW3, anchoring in Loch na-h-Uidhe on Taransay.

6/7/05   1630 - 1820   Taransay to Loch Leosavay   9.5nm

We spent a fine day exploring Taransay: had good views of the Harris hills from the summit, attempted to spot St. Kilda, and - for the really dedicated collectors of oddities - located the 000000 grid reference, one of only 6 in Scotland (on land at any rate).  Spirits - and everything else - were somewhat dampened, however, by the swamping of the dinghy in the deceptively mild looking surf as we tried to get off the beach.  Fortunately the day was warm and sunny, and the boat was festooned with drying garments as we motor sailed in NW3 to Loch Leosavay.  On the way in a very grand looking big house could be seen, complete with cannons guarding the lawn.  A local confirmed that it was a sort of hotel - but not the sort that has a public bar!  The river beside it has been modified to form a series of fishing pools, and we lost count of the number of "private", "no entry" etc. notices dotted around.  The village round the harbour has one shop which we tried to visit, but it is apparently open only on Monday mornings!  Dinner aboard.

7/7/05   1445 - 1755   Loch Leosavay to Soay Mor to Tarbert   7.7nm

After a wet night the clouds were down to the sea so the planned day on the Harris hills was abandoned.  A long lie was followed by a gentle sail up West Loch Tarbert in W3, pausing to "do" Soay Mor en route.  There we watched MV "Von" loading bags of feed into automated fish farms.  At Tarbert we anchored and had dinner in one of the pubs, where a television gave continuous news of the London suicide bombings.

8/7/05   0650 - 1510   Tarbert to Plocrapool   43.1nm

After dropping off Robert to catch the 0730 ferry to Ullapool we set off down the loch, motorsailing in steady rain.  A steady beat in S4 took us slowly past Toe Head to the beginning of the Stanton Channel where we again motorsailed through in favourable tide but poor visability.  All transits were of course invisible and the plotter really came into its own.  We did not follow it blindly, however, but continually checked that what we could see of the real world agreed with the electronic version, and that sounded and plotted depths were also in reasonable agreement, etc.  I was very concious, however, that we were effectively "flying on instruments" much of the time, and that attempting conventional navigation in these conditions would have been extremely difficult.  A sobering thought.

Once through the Sound we looked longingly at Rodel, but there was insufficient height to get in so we carried on: a broad reach up the Harris coast in SE5 and a roughening sea.  The by now quite heavy quartering sea made dropping sail difficult before entering into Plocrapool which, once in, gave a very sheltered calm anchorage.  Dinner aboard as the very wet weather continued.  [I discovered later that my Best Man's brother lives in Plocrapool: when we were there we could barely see the houses.]

9/7/05   0655 - 1625   Plocrapool to Crowlin Harbour   51.3nm

An early start was an unattractive proposition: still wet with poor visability.  We were starting to run out of time, however, so had to press on.  The forecast SW proved to be S4: fine for crossing the Minch - a fast reach across to Trodday then past the N end of Rona - but not for making southerly progress thereafter.  Beating down the E side of Rona, double reefed, the main split between the 2nd and 3rd reef points.  This allowed us to use the sail with the third reef  in, which was reasonably OK for the prevailing conditions but likely to be a major nuisance later.  To make any sort of sensible progress motor sailing was resorted to, then motoring straight to windward, the boat slamming hard in the very bouncy conditions.  At least the rain had by now stopped.  The N entrance to Crowlin harbour gave good sheltered anchorage.  A trip ashore to "tick off" the summit took rather longer than anticipated, and we only just recovered the dinghy before the rising tide carried it off.  Another boat arrived during dinner and surprised us by anchored in the shallows inside us: we hoped he could take the ground.

10/7/05   0830 - 1950   Crowlin Harbour to Tobermory   64.9nm

Recovering the anchor involved manoevering quite close to our neighbour, and while closely watching him, and also Adrian's signals from the bows, I suddenly became aware of an otter playing on the rocks.  For a minute I didn't have enough eyes to go round!  After clearing Crowlin we spent an hour sailing close hauled towards the bridge in S4 and laying the course - just.  Then the wind died, blanketed by Skye, and we motor sailed through the Kyles.  Once clear we hoped to lay Ardnamurchan in the S wind, but we found SW4: dead on the nose.  This is the sort of thing I hate: hammering dead to windward and drinking diesel to keep to a schedule in conditions that would (with undamaged sails, admittedly) have given a much pleasanter - and more comfortable - beat.  We were making higher VMG, however, as we proved by overtaking a number of sailing boats near Eigg, but still we envied them, felt curiously ashamed, and avoided eye contact. 

The wind eased at Ardnamurchan then, in the western entrance to the Sound we found thick fog: unusual for these parts and not at all welcome.  We crept along the northern coastline, keeping far enough in to be (hopefully) out of the path of MacBrayne or anything else of substantial size.  I considered calling the Coastguard and asking if they knew of any reported movements in the area, but didn't really like to somehow.  At some point we would, of course, have to cross to the south side.  Fortunately a brief clearance appeared, and we quickly scuttled across.  Tobermory was basking in the evening sun in almost flat calm.  We found an anchorage: 38m scope in 22m depth (!), checked that we had sufficient diesel for the last leg, then had dinner ashore.

11/7/05   0620 - 1415   Tobermory to Craobh   37.5nm

An early start in S1.  Soon after entering the Sound we again found fog banks.  Again we kept close in, following the contours along the Mull shore.  I rigged the mechanised fog horn: a mouth trumpet tied to the pulpit and connected by hosepipe to a dinghy inflator on the cockpit sole.  A foot placed on the latter gives a "parp" which is far enough away to not drown out other sounds.  After a while we heard a series of answering "parp"s from the Morvern side.  A sudden clearance showed the source of these to be two other yachts - and also revealed a coaster travelling at full speed up the Sound and making no signals at all.  A few more days like this would add radar to the "must have" list! 

Near Craignure the fog lifted and a hot afternoon followed.  The Firth of Lorne was crossed in flat calm: we took advantage of this to strip off and bundle up the torn main.  Back at Craobh we took on 60l of diesel. 

Summary:   It had been something of a roller coaster of a trip: sleep deprivation, a gale, poor visability, gear failure and seemingly endless motoring to windward.  On the other hand the fast Minch crossings had both been memorable, and we had got to the summits of 5 new islands.

380nm logged in 70.2h (5.4kn average) of which 49.1h motoring.

29/4/05   1340 - 2110   Craobh to Tobermory   38.8nm

With Dave and Donald - The Chentlemen's Cruise.  This has already been well covered elsewhere.  However, just for completeness, ... 

After a sociable evening in the Lord of the Isles followed by the unpleasantness on Craobh's darkened and wind swept pontoon on the Friday night (Dave falling in unobserved - which could have been extremely nasty) a wet and windy night was followed by an equally wild Saturday morning.  We finally left once the wind dropped to SW5, which gave us good progress through Cuan and across to the Sound of Mull.  Crossing the Firth of Lorne was quite bouncy which, given it was the first outing of the season, made us all rather quiet and contemplative for a while, although neither Ruth nor Hughie were actually called upon. 

In the Sound conditions were much smoother, and a series of fast tacks ensued.  First Fair Winds, then Claymore, were overtaken, but radio problems left some doubt as to the Cruise Director's planned destination.  Given the time we thought that Loch Aline might be favourite, and we hove to off the entrance to see, but no: Claymore stormed past, clearly bound for Tobermory.  For some reason we then couldn't catch them up again but, by taking the short cut through the Doirlinn (a first for Avilion and an excuse to try the now fully functioning forward looking sonar) we arrived at the new pontoon just after them.  (Not knowing of said pontoon's existance, we had instead organised both the anchor and the buoy mooring gear, so much faffing ensued.)

On the pontoon we were immediately welcomed with G&Ts which set the tone splendidly.  We wished to eat ashore, however, so left fairly soon to search for the legendary chip van.  It was absent, but we got a meal (at 2200!) in the restaurant above the new pub.  We then sought the rest of the party in the Mishnish - and discovered instead a particularly crappy caraoke with a smallish audience of an average age which appeared to be around 15.  The "Chentlemen", who had previously been repelled by the same vision, were found ensconsed in the new pub, where a good night was had by all until the very civilised chucking out time of 0200.   

30/4/05   1410 - 2100   Tobermory to Drumbui to Loch Aline   24.6nm

A leisurely start in the sunshine with much boat visiting and general sociability.  There was some discussion of destinations - Bunnessen was definitely mentioned - but eventually it was decided that the now light wind (SW2) made the planned Mull circumnavigation less attractive, so we headed for Loch na Droma Buidhe - a pleasant sail, anchoring under sail too just to be aesthetic.  After a late lunch (1655!) we set off down the Sound in a fine W3 which gradually died.  The motor was eventually resorted to, and the anchor was finally dropped at 2100.  We ate aboard then, in the now pitch black, opted for getting ourselves outside of a few drams rather than row ashore and walk to the pub.  The returning revellers duly abused us as a bunch of party poopers.   

1/5/05   1205 - 1710   Loch Aline to Puildobhraoin   24.0nm

After assorted social calls, breakfasts, cockpit showers, etc. we departed dangerously close to A.M. in an E3 which piped up to E5 once into the Sound, giving a spell of lively sailing.  We followed Claymore into Oban Bay, then carried on down the Sound of Kerrera while they paused at the marina for "civilised" showers.  At Puildobhrain we anchored close to Fair Winds who had taken the more direct route.  After setting the anchor, I hooked the nylon strop to the chain as usual, but somehow neglected to drop the loop on the other end over a cleat.  On letting out the chain the strop and chain hook duly disappeared overboard.  Half an hour of fishing for it proved unfruitful.

Claymore then arrived and proceeded to make several attempts at anchoring in what was by now a fairly crowded anchorage.  To provide them with suitable encouragement, Dave coached us in the performance of obscene Hindu gestures whose literal translation may be imagined but seemed apposite.  With the entire party now present, an immediate shore expedition was launched.  An extremely good night was had in the Tigh an Truish, culminating in a narration, with actions, of the infamous Cleit Rock yarn.  The return to the dinghys in the dark was decidedly damp, but was promptly followed by a major party on Avilion, much of which I regret to say I slept through.  I do remember hearing a remark to the effect that it was obviously much safer to stay drinking until daylight than to risk rowing back in the dark ...

2/5/05   1310 - 1605   Puildobhraoin to Craobh   14.0nm

A late start with several heads feeling somewhat fragile.  Claymore departed relatively early to get the far-travelled crew on their road, then some hours later we left shortly after Fair Winds.  This gave us a pleasant sail in company in SE4 round Easdale and through Cuan before heading to Craobh.  A fine end to a great weekend. 

4/6/05   1400 - 1650  Craobh to Puildobhraoin   12.3nm

A late start meant that motor sailing was required to make the tide through Cuan.  A pleasant run in SW4 followed.  At Puildobhraoin I had an unscheduled meeting with Sea Bright.  Dinner in the pub followed, during which the heavens opened, but it was dry again for the walk back.  A few nightcaps then followed on Avilion.

5/6/05   1305 - 1850   Puildobhraoin to Craobh   21.7nm

Part of the morning was spent trying out the new electric outboard - which seemed to work OK, but it was confirmed that at low water Seil Sound is impassible.  A gentle sail back via the Sound of Luing followed in a SW3 initially, but gradually dropping, dying entirely at Ardluing. 

25/6/05   1110 - 1810   Craobh to Scalasaig   30.9nm

With Isobel.  A mix of sailing and motoring against the last of the tide took us through the Sound of Luing then we had a gentle sail in W2 past the Garvellachs.  From there SW3 gave a fast close reach to Scalasaig where we tied up to the wavescreen.  Dinner in pub and (for Scalasaig) a peaceful night with little swell.

26/6/05   0655 - 1800   Scalasaig to Craobh   53.6nm

A broad reach in W3 took us to and through the Sound of Islay.  A short calm patch S of Jura forced us to motor for 40 minutes, but otherwise a fine sail up the Sound of Jura initially against, then with the tide.  At Craobh took on 27l of diesel.

Summer Cruise

23/7/05   0845 - 1750   Craobh to Loch Craignish   12.4nm

Initially flat calm then a gentle sail (using the newly repaired main) with occasional motoring through the Dorus Mor and into Loch Craignish.  Anchored at Eilean Macaskill.  To reach the top involved a prolonged fight through very dense vegetation.  From the summit I phoned Jim and arranged a rendezvous.  Back aboard I motored over to Eilean an Righ and was joined by Starlight a few minutes later.  After lunch Eilean an Righ gave a much easier ascent, then a mix of motoring and sailing took us across to the bay south of Ardfern village.  We found anchorages between the moored boats then had dinner at the pub - sitting outside to prove that it was summer!

24/7/05   1215 - 1530   Loch Craignish to Craobh   10.4nm

The return trip involved motoring at first in W1 then some sailing in Loch Shuna in NW3.  Off Craignish Point around 15 dolphins could be seen playing around the bows of another boat. 

29/7/05   2040 - 2230   Craobh to Eilean Dubh   8.9nm

With Calum.  Motored through Sound of Luing initially in E1, but rising to NE4 at north end.  Reasonable shelter in the anchorage, however.

30/7/05   0750 - 1530   Eilean Dubh to Shuna to Port Appin   28.8nm

After a later start than intended we motored in N1-4 via the Sound of Kerrera to Shuna, anchoring in Shuna Sound after following a channel marked by very small G & R buoys.  We did the hill, failed to find the castle, then had a short sail in N5 under genoa back to Port Appin.  After picking up a VB we had dinner in the hotel.

31/7/05   1020 - 1925   Port Appin to Craobh   32.7nm

After motoring through the narrows we sailed under genoa in N5-3 down the W side of Lismore and past the Glen Sanda quarry.  Although the wind was dying it was favourable, the day was sunny, and we were in no hurry, so we only motored to get through Easdale then Cuan.  I was puzzled by the normally reliable Autohelm developed an intermittent fault: while malfunctioning it was as if there was no feedback of incorrect course.  I wondered if something was upsetting its compass, but could find nothing magnetic near it, and the intermittancy of the problem made that theory less likely anyway.  After a while it decided to behave and was fine thereafter. 

5/8/05   1800 - 1830   Craobh to Asknish Bay   1.4nm

With Anne & Fiona: The BFMC Sailing Meet.  Motored over in N4 to pick up a hotel VB, then met up with rest of BFs over dinner in pub.

6/8/05   0705 - 1420   Craobh to Craighouse   26.6nm

With Anne, Fiona & Sandy.  A close reach in W4/3 took us most of the way to Loch na Cille.  We anchored in the N corner of the loch and ferried the hillwalking party ashore.  Jim and I then had a quick beer on Starlight before motoring to Craighouse.  Despite the early arrival no VBs were free but, after rafting up briefly to Sea Bright, we eventually anchored: rafted together, but with both anchors out: 30m scope in 2m depth with a wind W3 and dropping seemed just about tolerable.  The gala was in full swing and we had a close up view of the assorted raceswater before going ashore with Richard and Betty.  The BF walkers then straggled in over a half  hour period to join us for dinner in the pub. 

7/8/05   1110 - 1655   Craighouse to Craobh   27.1nm

The morning was spent relaxing in the sun while waiting for the tide.  A wind reversal overnight to NE1 had left the anchor chains crossed, but unfankling them in the calm conditions was relatively easy.  Removing the huge ball of kelp from the anchor was much harder, and took most of the length of Loch na Cille.  The prop was also foul with weed, and required repeated bursts of forward and reverse before it was all cleared.  Craighouse is a very kelpy place!  Much of the trip up the Sound of Jura was made under motor, but with some sailing when the wind rose above F2.

27/8/05   Craobh to Sailean Mor to Craobh   36.5nm

With Heather.  Since gales were forecast for the Sunday, we settled for a Saturday day trip.  After sailing round Shuna in S2 we then had a quite bouncy beat down the N part of the Sound of Jura in SW4 via the Dorus Mor.  For a lunch stop we anchored in Sailean Mor, which gave reasonable shelter from the fresh breeze, but did have a fair swell setting in.  The down wind return trip up the W side of the Sound was much more pleasant.

3/9/05   0945 - 1510   Craobh to Loch Spelve   22.5nm

The S5 gave a fast run under headsail up the Sound of Luing and over to Loch Spelve in the now dying breeze.  The motor was only resorted to in the narrows of the entrance when steerage way was finally lost.  A large sail trainer occupied my intended anchorage behind the island in the NE corner, but I found another a little to the N.  Quiet night.

4/9/05   0840 - 1235   Loch Spelve to Craobh   19.3nm

The return trip consisted largely of motoring in S1.  Off Inch Island the Autohelm started making funny noises and was clearly distressed.  I changed to the back-up unit.  [On dismantling, the plastic bracket which holds the bearing at one end of the screwed rod was found to be broken.  A not very hopeful attempt to glue it back together parted almost immediately.  Repairs should be possible, but will involve either getting a new part or - perhaps stronger, and certainly cheaper - reinforcing the arrangement.  The cause of the 31/7/05 problem was also found: a small broken O ring had got itself lodged in the compass housing; as the compass moved in its gimbals it would sometimes jam on the rubber ring ...] 

16/10/05   1115 - 1305   Craobh to Craobh   5.6nm

A short outing in Loch Shuna, motoring in SE4 for two purposes: to produce a calibration curve of speed against revs to allow before and after comparisons with the planned new prop, and to thoroughly stir and heat up the engine oil before changing it.

2005 summary: 838 nm logged.  8 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 493.3 h, 555.4 l giving average endurance of 62.2 h.

Work / improvements: Forward Looking Sonar (FLS) through-hull fitted, new sprayhood fitted, Navman and FLS fitted into box locating in companion way.  VSR fitted and electrics re-organised.

1/7/04   0920 - 1630   Craobh to Tobermory   36.1nm

With Adrian.  After some initial excitement chasing a lost haliard, we sailed up to Cuan in SW4.  With motor assistance for the passage through it was extermely interesting to observe how the soundings on the new high resolution digital chart compared with reality - until the appearance of a boat coming the other way as we approached the Cleit meant that a more direct approach to pilotage was required!  A fast broad reach in SW4 took us to Duart then a close reach let us sail up most of the Sound of Mull without tacking.  In tobermory we found an anchorage in 17m (!) and we met our ex-neighbour from Craobh, Dawn of Wessex.  Dinner in the new pub.

2/7/04   0620 - 1525   Tobermory to North Harbour, Barra   55.3nm

We motored out of Tobermory and along the north coast of Mull until clear of blanketing land when a steady S4 gave us a splendid broad reach across the Minch.  A course to N. Harbour gave best boat speed, and it was a new anchorage, so that was fine.  A fast, and not too bumpy crossing.  After anchoring clear of the fishing boats we rowing ashore to find the pub - which was undergoing renovations and had no food.  So a couple of pints and bags of crisps served as aperatives for dinner aboard.

3/7/04   1720 - 1910  North Harbour, Barra to Hellisay   5.0nm

A walk ahore took us up Bein Eireathad and to the north end of the island where we watched a plane landing on and taking off from the beach "runway".  After trying unsuccessfully to find somewhere to dump a rubbish bag, we eventually prevailed on a nice lassie in a holiday cottage.  A quick motor across to Gighay / Hellisay followed, whereapon the new (and only temporarily installed) forward looking sonar gadget failed at the critical moment leaving us to traverse the SE entrance using mk 1 eyeball.  Thankfully we avoided any bumps.  Once in the inland sea we had some difficulty reconciling reality with the Sailing Directions, but we eventually anchored in the right place at the second attempt.  In the silence after stopping the engine there was an overwhelming sensation that we were absolutely alone.

4/7/04   1820 - 1935   Hellisay to Acarsaid Mor, Eriskay   5.0nm

A morning row took us ashore to do Hellisay (very smelly rotting weed in the obvious landing place) and from the top we saw a fishing boat come in the NW entrance.  We then rowed across to Gighay and met the boat's crew, who were fixing a sheep pen and most surprised to see anyone else, before doing the hill.  The row back against a W4 was hard work.  After gingerly leaving, again by the SE passage, we motor sailed over to Eriskay.  The VBs were taken so we anchored, the magic chart making finding a good spot particularly easy.

5/7/04   0820 - 1550   Eriskay to Stuley to Acars. Falaich, Ronay   35.2nm

A SW3 gave a run past the south end of South Uist, then a beam reach to Stuley where we anchored in the south part of the sound.  The hill took little time, then a beam reach in W4 with occasional showers took us past Benbecula to Flodday Sound.  We motored into the Sound, then cautiously through the narrow entrance into Acarsaid Falaich, a quite remarkable - and well named - place.  Ashore, a complicated route was required to reach the summit of Ronay, but the view was rewarding.  A dinghy trip across to Floddymore followed, with some hard rowing to return against the ebbing tide.  Drams in the cockpit allowed more appreciation of the anchorage along with quiet satisfaction at getting to the top of three islands in one day.

6/7/04   0810 - 1610   Ronay to Poll nan Gall to Lochmaddy   12.0nm 

We were, annoyingly, now off the detailed coverage of the magic chart, so a couple of potentially embarrasing rocks were programmed in as "avoid" features before cautiously motoring through to the north end of Flodday Sound to Poll nan Gall.  Eavall gave a good, if somewhat damp, tramp up through thick vegetation with, again, a superb view from the summit.  On the way down we met a couple of DEFRA agency men who were trapping mink.  After re-tracing our route back out of Flodday Sound, we then had a reach in E 2/3 for an hour or so until the wind died before motoring into Lochmaddy.  After picking up a VB we visited the sights (artworks, "hut of the shadows" etc.) then had dinner in the pub.

7/7/04   0715 - 2035   Lochmaddy to Isay to Stein to Canna   39.4nm

A NE4 ruled out the planned trip to Harris so instead we had a splendid reach across to Skye.  After anchoring in the sound between Isay and Mingay we did Isay - a strange, abandoned place whose beach nevertheless yielded a useful plank.  This, after drilling to take ropes, would be handy for hanging outside the fenders when mooring against rough piers.  We then crossed to Stein, picked up a VB and had lunch in the pub.  The NE4 was too good to waste, however, so the planned stop at Dunvegan was abandoned, and we instead had a fast broad reach from Dunvegan Head to Canna.  Canna harbour was quite full - a dozen yachts and two fishing boats. 

8/7/04   0940 - 1700   Canna to Loch Eatharna, Coll   32.9nm

We motored out in a light wind which persisted for an hour before gradually strengthening to the point where we could sensibly sail.  Steady N3 gradually strengthening to N4 gave a dead run with whisker pole and boom preventer rigged.  In Loch Eatharna we picked up the only unoccupied (and furthest out) VB which gave us a hard row ashore against the NW4.  Half way there we were taken pity on by a powered dinghy which gave us a tow.  A good night in the pub followed.  On leaving the wind had dropped and we had a calm row back.

9/7/04   0900 - 1435   Coll to Little Colonsay to Ulva   30.0nm

At 0800 there was a knock on the hull and a request for £10 mooring charge.  If we had known about that we would have anchored - free, and a lot closer to the pub!  The NE3 gave a broad reach through the Treshnish Isles and round Gometra to Little Colonsay.  After landing with some difficulty we climbed the hill - quite rough going, but a fine view - then had a hard row back.  After motoring across to Craigaig Bay we climbed Ben Chreagaig - easier going than expected and with magnificent viws from the top.  Dinner aboard.

10/7/04   0805 - 1710  Ulva to Craobh   51.6nm

A NW4 gave a beam reach past Staffa then a broad reach  / run down the Sound of Iona.  The wind fell light off Erraid then strengthened to give a good beam reach past the Garvellachs.  A run through the Sound of Luing was followed by another reach to Craobh.  Took on water and tidied up.  A good trip.

Summary

312 miles logged in 61.3 h of which 20.9 motoring.  5.1kn average.

9 new islands collected.

.               

10/4/04   1000 - 1405   Craobh to Lowlandman's Bay   19.2nm

Mostly motoring in light winds: NW2 - S1 with occasional motor sailing down Sound of Jura.  Anchored in Lowlandman's Bay: some swell but reasonable shelter.

11/4/04   1015 - 1840   L's Bay to Traigh Ban, B. Glen Righ Beag   27.3nm

Gentle sail in W1 - NW2 via Loch na Cuilce and past Craighouse then lunch stop at Traigh Ban.  More gentle sailing followed in S1 until tide turned north up the Sound of Islay giving a lively passage through the Sound in an apparent NW3.  A quiet sail into Loch Tarbert followed, anchoring in Baigh Glen Righ Beag with the transit points noted for future explorations further up the loch.  Peaceful night.

12/4/04   0915 - 1555   Baigh Glen Righ Beag to Craobh   23.6nm

A gentle sail in W3 up the west coast of Jura waiting for the ebb.  Passage inshore of Eillean Mor was quite dramatic - tacking downwind in strong current.  Met 3 sea kayaks also passing through Corryvreckan.  Pleasant sail back to Craobh in W4.

8/5/04   0705 - 1320   Craobh to Ardminish   32.0nm

With Calum.  Motor sail in NW2 and fine weather down Sound of Jura.  Picked up a VB then, for reasons that remain unclear, the 2 logs and engine hour totals all decided to zero themselves.  Much bad language.  On dinghying ashore we were met by Alison who had just arrived courtesy of CalMac!  A visit to the gardens followed, with the roddies etc. looking fine, then dinner in the very busy pub.

9/5/04   0630 - 1755   Ardminish to E. Mor McCormick to Craobh   37.6nm  

Motor to E. M. C. in N1/2.  The tide turned early.  Anchored and took line ashore to ring.  Explored island but couldn't find hermit's cave seen on previous visit.  Landslip?  After lunch had a leisurely motor / sail back to Craobh, with a short period of quite blowy weather in the Dorus Mor.

22/5/04   0920 - 1635   Craobh to Tayvallich   32.0nm

With Adrian and Gary.  A mix of Motoring, sailing and motor sailing in W1-2 and fine weather down Sound of Jura.  W3 gave very pleasant sailing up Loch Sween to Tayvallich.  A well-timed arrival got us a table for dinner in the very busy pub.

23/5/04   0905 - 1640   Tayvallich to Craobh   34.6nm

Took a gentle sail up Sailean Mor while awaiting tide, where an osprey's nest with young was spotted.  A lively beat back down Loch Sween in SW3 followed, then a pleasant broad reach back to Craobh.  36.9l of diesel taken on.

12/6/04   1030 - 1215   Craobh to Scarba   7.5nm

With Adrian and Sandy.  A short beat in W3 over to Scarba allowed some interesting playing about with the new chartplotter.  Anchored below the lodge then did hill.  We had hoped for a view down into the Corryvreckan, but a layer of mist at the top prevented this.  Met Jim heading up as we descended, and we agreed to meet later.  A detour via the north of the island delayed us, however, watching a golden eagle which clearly had a nest on the northern cliffs, and the antics of a group of kayakers who were paddling into the fast ebbing Grey Dogs, then getting swept backwards far out into the Sound of Luing - one couping in the process.  On returning to the boats we were met by the hedonistic image of a sunbathing Jim stretched on the tri's trampoline and sipping strawberry martinis(!)  These proved to be rather tasty, and formed the start of what became a pretty good party.  Heavy rain fell overnight.   

13/6/04   1230 - 1430   Scarba to Craobh   7.5nm

A late start suited everyone then, after the rain cleared, we had a pleasant sail back, tacking downwind in SW3. 

Summer Cruise

31/7/04   0850 - 1450   Craobh to Scallasaig   24.8nm

With Calum.  Motored in light winds through Sound of Luing then through the Grey Dogs.  Some sailing later, but with variable wind F2 or less progress was inevitably slow.  Tied up at pier using new fender plank and joined later by Starlight.  Dinner in pub.  The wind then became easterly giving an uncomfortable motion overnight.  Glad of plank.

1/8/04   0740 - 1820   Scallasaig to Craobh   47.8nm

We made an early departure - involving much unfankling of lines - to escape the swell then had a good close reach to the Sound of Islay in SE3.  In the Sound the wind was funneled, becoming head on and strengthening, so the motor was resorted to to get through before the tide turned.  A gentle motor sail up the Sound of Jura followed in the now SE1 up to and through the Reisas then a slow sail to Craobh. 

20/8/04   1955 - 2020   Craobh to Asknish   1.4nm

With Fiona, X & Y.  BFMC Sailing Meet.  Motor over to Asknish VB where joined by Starlight.  Dinner (just) in pub with more BFs

21/8/04   0615 - 1200   Asknish to Glen Batrick   29.3nm

With Fiona, Liz, Malc & Robert.   Early start to catch tide then motor in N1 through Sound of Luing and Grey Dogs.  Then motor sailed in N2 down NW coast of Jura to Loch Tarbert, anchoring at Glen Batrick.  All ashore and most up one Pap, then shifted anchorage before having a barbecue on the beach - enjoyed by all.  Fixing a charging problem with the windlass battery caused a delay, but since by then the barbecue was already lit, and everyone else was ashore, the only loss was some of my drinking time.  Calm night and party continued aboard.

22/8/04   1120 - 2015   Glen Batrick to Craobh   48.4nm

With Fiona, Liz, Malc, Robert & Gregor.  Late start after a good night.  With 6 on  board the cockpit was decidedly busy!  We had a lively beat down the Sound of Islay in SE4 with stronger gusts, making reasonably fast progress until the main split while reefing, hust below the 3rd reefing point.  This allowed the sail to be used with the 3rd reef in, but progress inevitably became quite slow up the Sound of Jura as the wind died.  Eventually the motor was resorted to.  More room in the cockpit now, however, with removal of prostrate bodies to saloon, accompanied by bucket.  A long day, concluding with just managing to get fish suppers in Inveraray at 2200 as the shop was on the point of shutting...       

25/9/04   0920 - 1220   Craobh to Loch Feochain   15.3nm

Some difficulty leaving the pontoon in the W5, overcome eventually by reversing all the way out.  A lively sail via Cuan followed, the repaired sail behaving well.  The planned destination of Port Appin was abandoned due to the forecast, and a diversion made to a VB in Loch Feochain beside Starlight.  A trip to Oban yielded the makings of a splendid seafood dinner on board to celebrate Rosemary's birthday.  Great evening.

26/9/04   0720 - 1150   Loch Feochain to Craobh   17.7nm

An early start was made to catch the tide, and the Loch was left in decidedly unpleasant weather.  Outside the sea was rough, giving a very wet motor sail against SW6.  The motion was quite violent: an empty wine bottle left in the cockpit broke and the leeward cockpit drain blocked up.  Given the amount of rain and spray flying about this was a problem, and I hove-to for a few minutes to let me get it poked clear in as dry conditions as possible.  (The engine compartment lid has to be lifted to get at the cockpit drains, and while it's open rain and / or spray go straight down below...)  Under way again the bouncing continued, but at least the cockpit drained properly.  It was a relief to reach Cuan with only its tidal swirlies to deal with.  Mooring in Craobh in SW5 was easier than expected, but required quite a lot of ahead propulsion to stop the bow blowing off.  48l of diesel taken on.  

9/10/04   0905 - 1605   Craobh to Belnahua to Puildobhraoin   18.1nm

With Stuart.  Sailing through the Sound of Luing in N2 required some motor assistance.  Inevitably the wind then strenghthened as we tried to anchor at Belnahua.  An attempt at the NW end was unsuccessful, but a second go at the NE end worked, using the wee "Rockfish" chained to the crown of the Delta.  It held against full reverse so we were happy, despite being a lee shore (NE3), and we were out of the tide.  Belnahua was very interesting with its quarry ruins and remains of steam engines and boilers quitly rusting away.  After lunch the dying wind gave a gentle sail before resorting to the motor.  Flat calm anchorage and dinner at the pub.

10/10/04   0815 - 1340   Puildobhraoin to Craobh   20.0nm

The E2-3 was too light to make fast enough progress to make the tide through Cuan so the motor was again used, going via Easdale - worryingly shallow at the S end.  After Cuan a NE3 gave an enjoyable beat up Loch Melfort before returning to Craobh.

2004 summary: 756 nm logged.  11 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 423.1 h, 458.4 l giving average endurance of 63.2 h.

Work / improvements: boom lifted c. 120mm, windlass battery replaced, Navman 5500 chart plotter installed.

26/6/03   0755 - 1740   Craobh to Gott Bay   58.7nm

With Adrian.  The original plan was to use the current and forecast S4 to gave us a fast reach down the Firth of Lorne, passing south of the Torran Rocks then an equally fast broad reach passing SW of Tiree directly for Berneray.  This plan was followed until reaching SW of Iona when it was reluctantly abandoned as the sea state became decidedly rougher, and a diversion was made to Tiree.  We hoped that with a bit of luck we would just be able to get some shelter behind the west headland of Gott Bay, particularly if the wind veered a little.  In fact it backed and we had very little shelter, and it was of course a lee shore which hardly made for relaxation.  It was debatable whether the motion would have been significantly worse if we'd carried on.  Not knowing a secure anchorage in these parts that gives shelter from the SE is a real nuisance: some day I really must make an exploratory visit to the bays on Tiree's north coast.

27/6/03    0545 - 1935   Gott Bay to Berneray to Castlebay   59.8nm

Anchored on a lee shore in rising wind (SE6 by morning) precludes sleep, but fortunately the anchor showed no sign of budging.  Leaving as soon as there was sufficient light, we had a very rough departure: under motor initially, labouring direct to windward out of the bay until well clear of all the rocks, then motor sailing through Gunna Sound - at which point the wind switched to NW3!  Motor sailing continued in a now slight sea over to Berneray.  Anchoring beside the shelter rock, in the same spot as 2000's abortive attempt, we made it ashore (over extremely slippery rocks at the bottom of the slip) and finally "did" Barra Head.  Scudding low cloud made the view somewhat limited, but the situation was still most dramatic.  Bits of seaweed and other evidence around the lighthouse buildings (190m) gave testimony to just what a winter storm straight off the Atlantic can do.  Finding the actual summit of Berneray (193m) at the top of the cliffs was quite difficult in the cloud. 

On starting the engine I noticed a lack of water so replaced the impeller.  The old one had unglued itself from its bronze bush - an annoyingly common problem.  A NW4 wind slowly veering to N3 gave a mostly close reach passing east of Mingulay, Pabbay, and Sandray then through the Snua passage to Castle Bay.  Picked up a visitor buoy then dinner in the pub.

28/6/03   0805 - 1850   Castlebay to Flodday to Lochmaddy  52.8nm        

The wind was clearly bending round the Barra hills because the NW3 quickly became NE2 after we came out into the (residual) Sound of Vatersay.  Thereafter we had a close hauled motor sail to Floddy.  After a difficult landing over lots of weed covered rock, Floddy gave a fine hill with super views. 

Continuing NE past Eriskay we had a gentle sail in the sunshine during which I patched a smallish tear in the mainsail, then just before the entrance to Loch Maddy we had a sudden very heavy rain squall which blotted out most visability.  On reaching Lochmaddy the sun was again shining.  We picked up a VB, visited the local sights including the "hut of the shadows" - a fairly primitive camera obscura - and the various objet d'art near the pier.  Dinner in the pub, then drams aboard Islander II followed.  A fine evening.

29/6/03   0610 - 1630   Lochmaddy to Seaforth Island   49.2nm

A NE4/3 gave a mostly fast beat to Loch Seaforth entrance.  We stayed well off shore, partly to keep close to the rhum line, but also to avoid the banks of fog which stretched out from North Uist.  Once in the loch we motored into a N4 headwind.  Finding a sheltered anchorage wasn't easy: after circumnavigating Seaforth Island we eventually settled for a little bay at its south end.  A pre-dinner stroll to the summit gave exceptionally fine views of the Harris hills and Lewis's huge tract of 50:50 land / water mix.

30/6/03   0750 - 1925   Seaforth Is. to Aline Lodge to Loch Maaruig   6.9nm

Motoring past Seaforth Island again in N4 we then anchored at Aline Lodge as advised by the Pilot.  On dinghying ashore a local advised that better holding was to be had to the E "where the rocks are".  Reckoning that we were happily dug into the sand where we were, and that the wind was off shore, we decided to stay put.  Walking down the road we quickly reached the Lewis / Harris boundary then carried on for a couple of miles before heading up to do a clockwise circuit of Clisham, Uisganaval Mor and Stulaval.  A really fine day, if decidedly sweaty, and from Clisham we had noticed with interest that Loch Maaruig was now free from the fish cages that had given us problems in 1999.

On returning aboard we therefore quickly motored round to Loch Maaruig in NE4 to reach a sheltered anchorage - N2 and flat water.  A quick shower in the cockpit while the dinner was cooking was wonderfully civilising.  After dinner drams were savoured under a still bright sky, but with the sun behind the heavily shadowed hills; calm air but no midges - magic!  

1/7/03   0755 - 1850   Loch Maaruig to Shiants to Loch a' Bhraone   41.7nm  

A N4 gave a fast, close hauled crossing to the Shiants.  We anchored on the west side of the double beach then dinghied ashore.  The climb up to the summit of Garbh Eilean was quite something.  The first part was steep, but rocky with good holds.  Thereafter followed an expanse of high angled dry grass, with few positive holds and no protection from the very obvious drop below.  A slip simply wasn't permissable.   The last part up a steepish gully was better.  On top, occasional bonxies flying blind round rocky corners at chest height were a distinct hazard.  The views from the summit were stunning, but slightly spoiled by thoughts of the descent to come.  In the event, and taking it slowly, it wasn't too bad - although I was concious throughout that I was very much looking down on to the top of Avilion's mast!

After lunch a NE4 gave us a fast broad reach past Eilean Trodday into the sound of Raasay - accompanied by about 10 dolphins which played around us for several minutes.  We anchored in Loch a' Bhraone just off the high, but well fendered, naval pier.  A chap from the shore station advised us that we could tie up to it if we wanted since no boats were due, but since we'd already anchored by then we declined.  This may have been a mistake since they probably get few visitors, and perhaps we missed a good party - who knows?  Quiet night.

2/7/03   0615 - 1350   Loch a' Bhraone to Isleoronsay   43.1nm

After an early start to catch the tide a N4 gave a fast sail round Raasay then under the Skye Bridge and through the Kyles.  The approach to Isleoransay was squally, but we eventually anchored successfully after some difficulty reconciling reality with the sailing directions.  Once ashore we had a quite lengthy walk then whisky was purchased, the art gallery visited, showers obtained in the hotel then dinner. 

3/7/03   0940 - 1755   Isleornsay to Tobermory   41.3nm

A NW3 gave a broad reach to Ardnamurchan with the cruising chute making an appearance for a while.  Motoring was necessary from Ardmore as the wind died.  We found a spot to anchor, close to but not in the fairway, then dinghied ashore to the beach beside the pier, convenient for the Mishnish where we tried to get dinner.  Adrian is vegetarian and the Mishnish could unfortunately offer nothing suitable.  "How about an omelette, then?"  "I'll have to check ... I don't think chef does omelettes ... no, sorry."  Nor was there any decent beer for sale.  "There's not much demand..."  After pointing out that there were actually very few customers, and that some of these facts might possibly be related, we left sadly, remembering many previous good nights in theMishnish's better days.  The new pub beside the dinghy park on the other hand had plenty of good food and drink on offer so it got our custom instead - it was pretty busy, so clearly ours was not an isolated view.  Back at the dinghy we evicted the wee Weegies who had been using it as a convenient seat while eating their chips, then paddled back. 

4/7/03   0815 - 1805   Tobermory to Carna to Loch Aline   31.4nm

The favourable winds meant that we now had some time in hand, so a side expedition was added.  The NE4 gave us a fast close hauled sail past the Stirks into Loch Sunart, then some slow motoring took us past various rocks into the pool east of Carna.  Carna summit was another fine viewpoint.  After lunch we tacked downwind in NW4 down the Sound of Mull to Loch Aline for dinner in the pub.

5/7/03   0905 - 1555   Loch Aline to Craobh   29.1nm

A NE3 gave a broad reach down the Sound of Mull then the wind died in the Firth of Lorne so we motored for an hour before sailing through the Sound of Luing back to Craobh.  Water and 34.9l of diesel taken on.

Summary

414 miles logged in 79.6 h of which 31.3 motoring.  5.2kn average.

6 new islands collected.

19/4/05   0850 - 1610   Craobh to Craobh   34.2nm

Shakedown sail down Sound of Jura until tide turned just north of McCormacks then sailed back.   Close reach both ways in gusty, unstable wind of F4 or so, SE then NE.  Little sea, however, so quite comfortable.

9/5/03   1705 - 2004   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   12.8nm

With Calum and Robert (BFMC Sailing Meet).  Motored through Cuan then sail in SW4 with moderate sea to Puilldobhraoin.  Met Sea Bright, then over hill to pub - too late for food.  Pints and crisps instead, then drams and nibbles back aboard.  Late night.

10/5/03   Puilldobhraoin

After a late start with complaints of sair heeds, a shore expedition was made: first to the pub for lunch, then up Beinn Mhor (including the Toad of Lorne) in the wind and rain, then returning to the pub for dinner.  Slightly more moderate party aboard.

11/5/03   1015 - 1815   Puilldobhraoin to Shuna to Craobh   19.5nm

Beat through the Sound of Inch in SW4 and some sea then motor sail through Cuan.  Anchored at north end of Shuna to do hill: the island's "main road" which almost reaches the summit proved to be a very clarty track following its use by JCBs.  Motor back to Cuan then showers before heading down the road.

30/5/03   1945 - 2120   Craobh to Port an Tobair, Jura   7.3nm

Motor in SE1 to anchorage at NE end of Jura with intention of viewing annular eclipse the following morning.  Escorted in by dolphins.  Would have been a peaceful anchorage but for some very noisy seals.  Early night.

31/5/03   0545 - 1345   Port an Tobair to Gigha   29.9nm

Up at 0500, but mostly overcast: brief glimpse only of the eclipse through hazy cloud.  Anchorage becoming uncomfortable in SE3 so left early.  Wind gradually strengthened down Sound of Jura eventually reaching S5, giving a double reefed close reach.  Picking up a visitor buoy took several attempts in the strong wind.  Joined by Starlight at 2030.  Dinner & drams aboard.

1/6/03   1250 - 1835   Gigha to Craobh   33.5nm

Fast run under reefed genoa alone up Sound of Jura in SE6 and lumpy conditions for a couple of hours, then the wind gradually eased down to F2.  Some motor assistance to make sure of the tidal gate, then a pleasant reach in SE4 with flat water back to Craobh.   

7/6/03   0905 - 1700   Craobh to Craighouse   32.0nm

With Sandy.  Beat down the Sound of Jura quite uncomfortable in SW4 with wind against tide.  The original intention of heading up the Sound of Islay was abandoned as we had taken too long, and were well short of the south entrance when the tide turned, so we diverted to Craighouse and picked up a visitor buoy.  By now the wind had dropped to SW2 and dinghying ashore was straightforward.  Dinner in pub.  Very few other boats in and a quiet night.   

8/6/03   0615 - 1235   Craighouse to Craobh   25.6nm

Motor sail up Sound of Jura in quiet conditions: SE2/1.   At Craobh took on water and 42.3l diesel.

2/8/03   1820 - 1900   Craobh toi Shuna   2.1nm

Motored to Shuna to escape West Highland shenanigans.  Very peaceful anchorage in company with 3 or 4 other escapees.

3/8/03   1625 - 1710   Shuna to Craobh   2.7nm

After a long lie and a quite day catching up on wee jobs returned to a now quiet Craobh.

9/8/03   0750 - 1415   Craobh to Oronsay   28.6nm

With Calum.  Changed the engine oil then had a good sail up Sound of Luing and past Garvellachs in SE4.  The wind later slackened and slowly veered to SW2/3, but enough to sail to Oronsay, anchoring off beach where joined by Starlight.  Shore visit by Jim's motorised dinghy round to Oronsay's road landing point then walk to the Priory: very impressive ruins, currently being worked on.  Dinner aboard.

10/8/03   1100 - 1815  Oronsay to Jura to Craobh   27.3nm

After a leisurely start (swimming off boat, etc.) a mix of motoring and sailing to Jura.  Glengarrisdale bothy visited while waiting for tide, then back to Craobh via Corryvreckin in strengthening wind becoming W4 with sunshine.

23/8/03   0825 - 1540   Craobh to Eilean an Naoimh to Colonsay  27.4nm

With Adrian and Nicky.  Motored in flat calm through Grey Dogs to Eilean an Naoimh.  Brief trip ashore looking at the remains, then motor sail to Scalasaig in NE2.  Rafted up with Starlight at wavescreen then dinner in pub.

24/8/03   0920 - 1805   Colonsay to Jura to Craobh   31.5nm

Motor sailed in NE2 to Baigh Glen na Muic at the north end of Jura to await tide.  Trip ashore looking at interesting rock formations spoilt somewhat by large tick population.  Aboard again, concentrated de-ticking before proceeding, then gentle motor sail in SW1 through Corryvreckin and back to Craobh.

11/10/03   1005 - 1425   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   16.0nm

Sailed mostly, with occosional motoring, in SE2 up the Sound of Luing (with dolphin accompaniment) then through Inch Sound to Puilldobhraoin.  On arrival the anchorage was empty - a first!  (5 boats arrived over the next few hours.)

12/10/03   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   15.7nm

Mix of motoring and sailing in wind gusting SE1 to 3 through Sound of Luing to Craobh, taking sails off and generally de-rigging for winter on the approach.

2002 summary: 850 nm logged.  7 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 333.0 h, 383.5 l giving average endurance of 60.8 h.

Work / improvements: Fitted new saildrive seal and engine / gearbox coupling modification (Volvo type).  Re-replaced cap shrouds with correctly sized ones.  Fitted new water pump seals (twice!) and new engine a/v mounts.  Fitted hinges to chart table and replaced the genoa reefing cleat after its high tech predecessor exploded.

27/6/02   0500 - 1100   Craobh to Scalasaig   34.7nm

An early start was made to catch the last of the tide through the Sound of Luing.  The intention was to make an overnight stop at Erraid, but conditions in the Firth of Lorne were rough: NW5 with a fair sized swell, moderate to poor visability and rain.  After a few hours of close reefed, close hauled sailing in the now NW5/6 it was obvious that Erraid could not be laid without much tacking (in the vicinity of the Torran Rocks).  I did not like this idea and, considering also mal de mer and the general unpleasantness, the decision was taken to ease sheets and head to Colonsay.  Giving up hard-won ground was annoying, and an earlier decision to abandon Erraid in favour of Colonsay would have given us much less of a battering, but there you are.

After tying up against the wave screen at Scalasaig in NW5 we had a nap then dinner in the pub.  Despite the NW wind, swell still managed to roll into the harbour, giving us a distinctly bouncy night.

28/6/02   0630 - 1820   Scalasaig to Gott Bay   61.7nm    

On leaving in NW3 we were glad to get away from the swell.  We passed south about Colonsay then east of  Dubh Artach, motoring during occasional lulls, but mainly sailing close hauled in moderate or rough seas and a foul tide.  The weather was by now showers rather than steady rain and the visability improved.  Progress over the ground was painfully slow, however.  Eventually we beat into Gott Bay and had a reasonably sheltered anchorage in W3.  Dinner aboard and early bed.

29/6/02   0830 - 2035   Gott Bay to Vatersay Bay   53.2nm

Raining steadily.  After a pause for an hour or so there was no sign of improvement so we left anyway in W5.  This gave us a short run to Gunna Sound which we motor sailed through against the tide, then we were close hauled crossing the Minch.  The wind unexpectedly and annoyingly veered to NW4 in mid afternoon giving us another dead beat.  Bad weather was now forecast, so we decided to divert to Vatersay Bay rather than Castlebay to get better shelter.  Getting into Vatersay Bay I had some trouble with the pilotage for no very obvious reason other than tiredness, but we got it sorted and anchored snugly before the bad weather duly arrived.  Again dinner aboard and immediate crash out.

30/6/02   Vatersay Bay

A day festering as the rain fell and the wind blew.  Towards evening things were calming down with reasonable prospects for next day.

1/7/02   1050 - 1830   Vatersay Bay to Pabbay to Castlebay   16.8nm

We left in decidedly better weather conditions and had a brisk beat in SW4 to Pabbay.  Landed (first time off the boat in 4 days) and quickly up hill.  On return the boat was rolling wildly so we left quickly.  The trip back gave us our first free sailing of any duration on the trip so far!  A broad reach took us to Castlebay via the Snua passage.  After tying up to a VB we had dinner at the hotel.

2/7/02   0710 - 1625   Castlebay to Lochboisdale   30.3nm

Initially motoring, then close reaching, then tacking up the Barra coast in a wind steadily backing from E3 to N4 through the morning.  GPS problems made exploration of the Outer Oitir Mhor interesting, but most transits could be identified reasonably well.  We landed on the leeward south side of Fuday, the top of which gave an excellent viewpoint, then had a peaceful lunch at anchor followed by a very pleasant reach past Eriskay and the SE end of South Uist in NW4.  Nearing the entrance to Loch Boisdale we were met by heavy rain and poor visability which stayed with us most of the way in.  After picking up a VB we had dinner and showers at the hotel.

3/7/02   0740 - 1450   Loch Boisdale to Loch Scresort   42.8nm

The NW4(5) gave a very fast sail across the Minch: basically a broad reach, but a lumpy sea and much spray and slop.  A bright sun  shone, however, drying the spray, and we and the boat were all quite white by the time we arrived in Loch Scresort.  The new davits seemed to work well and kept the dinghy out of the water regardless of the heel angle.  Quite a few other boats were in Loch Scresort, making anchoring in the W4/5 quite tricky.  We eventually found a suitable spot, dropped the anchor, paid out chain, motored back to check it, stopped the engine and transferred the chain load to a nylon strop.  At this point the skipper of the boat behind, having watched us throughout, piped up "I say, you chaps are over my anchor.  Would you mind moving?"  We were in 4m and over 30m in front of him, but fair's fair, he was there first and presumably knew how much chain he had out, so we found another spot, repeating all steps of the anchoring game.  Not ten minutes after we'd finished this our pal - who had apparently only stopped for lunch - pulled in about 15m of chain, upped anchor and left!  Plonker.

After generally tidying up we made a shore visit to Cathie and Jim for coffee and drams then returned aboard for dinner.

4/7/02   Loch Scresort

We landed at 0700 for a complete traverse of all of the Rum Cuillin which gave us a superb - if very sweaty and exhausting - 12 hour day.  A quick shower in the cockpit was very welcome before dinner, as was the visit by RIB of Cathie and Jim afterwards.  More drams and conviviality, but Adrian and I were by now fighting to stay awake.  The wind had moved round to the NE and some swell was being set into the loch making us pitch around a bit overnight. 

5/7/02   0635 - 1925   Loch Scresort to Puilldobhraoin   59.1nm

After leaving Rum we had a very pleasant sail south, mostly broad reaching in N or NE 4.  It was sunny, the seas were slight, the views were great, and little physical effort was required.  This was just what was wanted since we were still tired from the previous day's expedition.  There was 1kn of foul tide for the first half of the Sound of Mull, then favourable.  On anchoring at Puilldobhraoin we lost no time getting ashore and over the hill to reach the Tigh an Truish before food service stopped. 

6/7/02   1205 - 1640   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   21.1nm

After a slightly irksome wait for the tide - using the time to clear up the boat as far as possible - we had a mix of motoring and sailing back to Craobh via the Sound of Luing in mainly SW4. 

Summary

323 miles logged in 66.4 h of which 21.1 motoring.  4.9kn average.

2 new islands collected.

4/5/02   0910 - 1520   Craobh to Craighouse   28.1nm

Close reach down Sound of Jura in S2 then some tacking after wind backed to SW3.  As I was quite keen to get a VB if possible I wanted to push on, so motor sailed when the wind dropped.  The reward was a selection to choose from, but all were occupied by 1800.  Dinner aboard, with piping from wedding party ashore.

5/5/02   0810 - 1655   Craighouse to Craobh   40.7nm

Overslept (alarm batteries flat) so later start than intended and consequent foul tide in Sound of Jura.  Once into Sound of Isla conditions improved: goose winged in S2 and favourable tide with new telescopic pole holding out the genoa.  Motor on after wind veered N and slackened at north end of Sound.  Motor sail through Corrievreckan then fast reach in initially N4 and sunshine to Craobh.

25/5/02   0915 - 1535   Craobh to Eil. Dubh Mhor to Puilldobhraoin   18.5nm

With Calum, Keith, Rosie, Joady (BFMC Sailing Meet).  Motored against SW5 to Ardluing then ran under reefed genoa through Sound of Luing.  Anchored between Eilean Dubhs, then dinghy relay ashore to do Eilean Dubh Mor.  Lunch at anchor then depart, running under genoa in SW4/5 in increasing swell.  Off Inch the motion had become decidedly corkscrewy and some lunches were lost.  Radio message from Seabright who had, unsurprisingly, retreated from trying to beat into it.  In  Inch Sound conditions gradually quietened down and we rendezvoud with Seabright in Puilldobhraoin.  Dinner in pub, wet and windy night.

26/5/02   0835 - 1350  Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   11.5nm *

A reasonably early start to (almost) keep favourable tide.  Conditions much improved, giving a pleasant beat back in S3 and flat sea through Sound of Luing then a broad reach to Craobh.  * Log stopped for c. 2 hours but restarted by itself..

21/7/02   1310 - 1645   Craobh to Toberonochy to Craobh   9.8nm

After sitting out Saturday's bad weather, Sunday much nicer so outside jobs done: genoa repair taped, winches services, etc., then afternoon sail round Shuna in W3 or so, with lunch at anchor at Toberonochy.

27/7/02   1130 - 1810   Craobh to Loch Aline   31.5nm

Through Sound of Luing in wind varying between W4 and S4 - what would have been a very pleasant broad reach / run if it hadn't been for the heavy rain.  This eased off around Seil, however, so decided to press on.  Anchored in S4 in the SE bay of Loch Aline at the 2nd attempt: not much room between the moorings.  Dinner aboard.

28/7/02   0845 - 1400   Loch Aline to Craobh   26.6nm

Poor visability and heavy rain.  Attempt to beat down Sound of Mull in very flukey E2/3 abandoned.  Mix of sailing / motor sailing in Firth of Lorne then motor to get through Cuan before it went foul.  At Craobh took on water and 33l diesel.

3/8/02   0755 - 1355   Craobh to Loch Aline (again!)   30.2nm

Good beat from Inch to and into Sound of Mull in NE3/4.  Wind then died at Glas Eileanan so motored into Loch Aline.  Anchored in S1 in SE bay.  Dinner aboard.

4/8/02   0955 - 1935   Loch Aline to Craobh   39.5nm

Wind SE2 giving a slow beat down the Sound (which after yesterday's beat up seemed a little hard!)  Light winds persisted, with calm spells so some motoring, including through Cuan.  A long day.

24/8/02   1000 - 1915   Craobh to Loch Aline (yet again!)   32.2nm

Motor sail in N2 into Sound of Luing then anchored briefly to "do" Lunga.  Inquisitive RIB gave me the once-over while I was anchoring then zoomed off - odd behaviour I thought.  A fast close hauled sail in Firth of Lorne in N4 followed.  Quite rough off Duart in NW5 against last of the foul tide, then long tacks up the Sound of Mull.  Anchored at second attempt in NW bay.  Dinner aboard.

25/8/02   0845 - 1600   Loch Aline to Craobh   31.6nm

Mix of gentle sailing and motor sailing in NW1/2 to catch tide through Cuan.  Pleasant sail up and down Loch Melfort in flukey NW-W2 before returning to Craobh - avoiding the Shuna race fleet.

14/9/02   0930 - 1825   Craobh to Bunnahabhain   40.4nm

Motor in N1 then gentle beat in SW2 with tide down Sound of Jura.  Fine sunny weather.  Motor on as wind died while entering Sound of Islay as the tide turned.  Anchored north of Bunnahabhain pier - very peaceful.  Dinner aboard.

15/9/02   0935 - 1525   Bunnahabhain to Craobh   27.3nm

Left in thick mist making rather self-concious "toots" at the prescribed intervals.  Motored in F1 or less through gradually clearing mist with occasional sailing in odd puffs.  Uneventful passage of Corryvreckin then sunny arrival in Craobh.

2002 summary: 690 nm logged.  4 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 265.7 h, 306.3 l giving average endurance of 60.7 h.

Work / improvements: fitted fridge mechanism to cool box, dinghy davits and telescopic spinnaker / whisker pole.

14/6/01   0700 - 1830   Craobh to Arinagour   59.8nm

With Adrian.  With a decidedly iffy forecast we chose to set out via the Sound of Mull.  The weather held, however, mostly E3 giving a reach under full sail up the Sound of Luing and over to Duart.  A brief spot of motoring was needed to get us out of a wind shadow at the entrance, then we enjoyed a very broad reach up the Sound - which gave an excuse to play with the new cruising chute.  Once clear of the western entrance, an E4 gave a fast broad reach over to Coll where we picked up the second last vacant visitor buoy.  With the wind now NE4 some swell was inevitably setting in, and we had a choppy row ashore before dinner in the pub.

15/6/01   0945 - 1815   Arinagour to Castlebay   55.4nm

After a relatively late start to see if the weather would improve it actually did, with wind still NE4 - a full 1F less than forecast - so we set off, glad to leave the swelly loch behind.  Just before Gunna sound we sighted a number of small (c. 1.4 m long) dolphin which played with us for a few minutes, then on the western side we had a brief glimpse of a whale's fin then its flukes but we couldn't identify the species.  The passage across the Minch in NE5 was choppy but very fast.  After picking up a visitor buoy at Castlebay we had dinner aboard.

16/6/01   Castlebay

Rain and wind in the morning meant it was afternoon before we ventured ashore.  After walking over Ben Tangaval we dropped down to the Barra Hotel where we were advised that showers could be had at £10 each.  We declined, and took the road for the Castlebay Hotel for dinner with free showers.  The "razor fish" - which proved in fact to be razor shells - was an experiment, but not one I would repeat - or recommend, unless of course you like chewing rubber.  I had a sneaking suspicion it was all a bit of a joke, and could imagine a translation of the staff's murmered conversation going along the lines of, "I told you they'd eat them - tourists'll eat anything if its marked 'locally caught' on the menu!". 

17/6/01   1035 - 1650   Castlebay to Sandray to Castlebay   16.6nm

The NE4 made us abandon plans for Berneray, but we reconnoitred the S facing bay of Sandray and found sufficient shelter to anchor.  The summit views were excellent.  On returning to the boat we tried a new system of tying the inflated dinghy across the stern with its weight resting on the boarding ladder - which seemed to work OK.  Motoring back to Castlebay in a dying contrary wind we again picked up a VB and dined in the pub.  The cod was a great improvement on the razor fish!

18/6/01   0700 - 1600   Castlebay to Carbost   56.6nm

We made an early start to get back across the Minch before the arrival of a nasty deep depression, using the motor in the initially light wind (SE2).  Most of the crossing was a fast, but smooth and relatively uneventful, reach in SE 3/4, but on entering Loch Harport the wind started to pick up, quickly reaching SE6 gusting 7.  Both VBs were occupied (by Belgian yachts) and trying to deploy the anchor and get it to hold in 30 kn wind was no fun at all.  The second attempt was successful and we laid a second anchor at an angle to limit our swing once the expecting veer arrived.  By now it was very wet and windy and there was no possibility of getting ashore, so we ate aboard with occasional tantalising glimpses of the New Inn.  Every now and again a screaming gust blowing off the Cuillin at a different angle threw the boat on to its ear and swung it violently sideways - not a comfortable night.

19/6/01 - 20/6/01   Carbost

Two days of inactivity followed as the rain fell and the wind blew.  After the veer to the SW the motion eased considerably and it stayed reasonable after the veer to NW.  Many books were read and odd jobs done.  On the afternoon of the second day we were finally able to get ashore for a short walk and a somewhat longer visit to the pub.

21/6/01   0715 - 1710   Carbost to Inverie   53.8nm

With weather much improved we motored out of the loch in NW2 then had a cracking broad reach down the Skye coast with tremendous views of the Cuillin in the clear northerly air.  We discovered that the new dinghy attachment method was fine for motoring, but not so clever for sailing since, with the boat heeled, a corner tended to dip in the sea and drag, putting a severe strain on the attachments.  We hove to for dinghy recovery and deflation - an energetic and not at all straightforward business in the swell.  Low cloud hid the Point of Sleat, but this gradually lifted later, with Loch Nevis looking very fine as we entered.  After picking up a VB we, (or at least I, since Adrian is a veggie), had a quite memorable dinner in the Old Forge.  Scottish smoked selection - salmon, venison and alligator(!) to start, followed by an excessive quantity of prawns which took the best part of an hour to dismantle.

22/6/01   0820 - 1755   Inverie to Kilchoan   40.3nm

Motoring out of the loch in near calm, we then had a gentle sail - mostly a close reach in W2 - past Eigg.  The cruising chute was again deployed successfully after removing the snuffer which I decided was more trouble than it was worth.  [I've not revised my opinion - it's one of my few gismos that I've found to be a complete disappointment.  Yet many people swear by them.  I swore at it.  On the few occasions that the CC is deployed, I now simply hoist it in the lee of either main or genoa as appropriate.  The virtually new snuffer has now been sitting for over 4 years in the loft in its pretty red bag... I really should flog it.]

Ardnamurchan was rounded without having to tack, then a very gentle sail into the Sound of Mull followed - enlivened by dodging McBrayne.  We found the "Isolated Danger" mark in Kilchoan bay to be missing, and carefully entered a "Hazard" waypoint to assist in clearing the submerged rock.  After picking up a VB we had dinner aboard - as much to use up food as anything else following more pub dinners than planned.

23/6/01   0725 - 1925   Kilchoan to Asknish Bay   56.8nm

A beat down the Sound of Mull in favourable tide was followed by a motor sail against the fast foul tide off Duart.  More beating in S3 took us to the Cuan Sound. We motor sailed through, then put in a few more tacks to reach Asknish Bay.  There we picked up a VB and were soon joined by Jim in Starlight.  Dinner in the Loch Melfort Hotel was followed by enthusiastic dramming aboard, but by then Adrian and I were struggling to stay awake.  It felt like it had been a very long day.

24/6/01   0945 - 1010   Asknish Bay to Craobh   1.2nm

A quick motor across to Craobh was followed by the usual ritual of clearing out the boat, filling water, etc.  It had not been the most successful of trips in terms of objectives achieved, with much time lost to bad weather, but we felt that we had had our share of pretty reasonable sailing.  This was borne out when I came to do the sums: the proportion of time spent motoring was quite low.

Summary

342 miles logged in 64.4 h of which 18.6 motoring, 5.3kn average. 

1 new island collected.

26/5/01   1505 - 1900   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   16.1nm

27/5/01   0955 - 1415   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   20.1nm

10/6/01   1000 - 1150   Craobh to Craobh   5.0nm

Motoring around Loch Shuna testing / calibrating new autohelm.

14/7/01   0910 - 1725   Craobh to Ardmore   40.0nm

With Colin and Marleen.  Very pleasant sail in the sun down Sound of Jura and across the entrance to the Sound of Islay, mainly broad reaching in wind varying from NW3 to NE3.  Cruising chute deployed for an hour or so.  After rounding Ardmore Point the wind was bending into Port Mor and Glas Uig so sails down and motored through Caolas Port na Lice and felt our way into the north anchorage at Plod Sgeiran.  Good shelter in N'ly, but shallow.  Quiet night.

15/7/01   1440 - 1750   Ardmore to Craighouse   14.2nm

Early start and dinghy ashore at 0700.  Admire Kildalton cross, then up Beinn Bheigier - another island top - where fine views.  For such an otherwise flat island, the Islay hills are surprisingly big and steep.  Hot, insecty descent, paddle out to the boat, then lunch on board with a very welcome cold beer.  Departure under motor taken slowly and cautiously, which was just as well since we nudged a rock with the keel, and Colin might not have managed to stay on the bow if we'd been going any faster.  Motor sail to Craighouse in N3/4 to find all VBs occupied, so anchored to 30m chain in 2m depth (!).  With the wind still northerly and forecast to drop this seemed fairly safe so we were quickly ashore to eat in the pub.

16/7/01   0625 - 1215   Craighouse to Craobh   28.5nm

 Departure was a bit early, giving us a foul tide for the first hour or so.  With a wind of NE1, occasionally 2, it was motoring all the way with very occasional spells of motor sailing.  But the weather was sunny...   35.8l of diesel taken on at Craobh.

4/8/01   1200 - 1650   Craobh to Little Horseshoe Bay   20.5nm

Leisurely start then fast beat to Ardluing in SW4.  Close hauled through the Sound of Luing (with some very odd wind shifts at Fladda) then tacked downwind to Sound of Kerrera.  In Little Horseshoe bay I anchored to 20m in 4m depth.  Dinghy ashore, using wrecked MFV as jetty, then up Carn Breigach - Kerrera's summit - a very jungly ascent.  Dinner aboard, heavy showers overnight.

5/8/01   0805 - 1245   Little Horseshoe Bay to Craobh   23.3nm  

Prompt start to catch tide.  Mostly fair, but with some showers as I beat back to the Sound of Luing in SW3.  Broad reaching back to Craobh from Ardluing it was positively warm - almost hot!

18/8/01   0945 - 1715   Craobh to Port Appin   37.4nm

19/8/01   0625 - 1250   Port Appin to Craobh   30.0nm

25/8/01   1045 - 1750   Craobh to Tayvallich   30.4nm

Tacked out of Loch Shuna in perfect conditions: W3, flat sea, then rendezvoud with Starlight south of the Sound of Luing.  Sailed, then motored as wind died, in company round Dana and up Loch Sween where we rafted up to anchor.  Dinner in pub.

26/8/01   0920 - 1650   Tayvallich to Craobh   36.6nm

After motoring out from Tayvallich, a splendid beat down Loch Sween followed: full genoa and 1 reef in main; wind SW4.  I was delighted to be able to keep up with Starlight.  At the loch entrance the wind veered which, together with the tide, meant more beating until the headland could be cleared.  Once sheets were freed, Starlight took off leaving me standing - a trimiran on a beam reach is impressive!  Progress was slow against the tide: 6.5kn logged, 1.5kn SOG until past Reisa.  A number of dolphins and porpoises were seen, however.  The final leg after getting out of the ebb from Corryvreckan was extremely calm and pleasant in a steady W4.

22/9/01   1210 - 1635   Craobh to Puilldobhrain   20.2nm

23/9/01   0905 - 1410   Puilldobhrain to Craobh   15.3nm 

2001 summary: 681 nm logged.  3 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 235.1 h, 273.3 l giving average endurance of 60.2 h.

Work / improvements: standing rigging replaced and forestay size increased from 5mm to 6mm.

16/6/00   2210 - 0015   Craobh to Eilean Dubh   9.9nm

With Adrian.  Departed Craobh after a late arrival and a frantic packing scramble.  Had a good sail through Sound of Luing in S4, then motored into Eilean Dubh anchorage in dark with considerable assistance from the full moon.  Drams and a fairly quiet night.

17/6/00   0900 - 1410   Eilean Dubh to Erraid   27.1nm

Later start than planned, but a good sailing breeze (SW4) gave a close reach S of the Garvellachs to Erraid.  By now the visability was c. 1 mile with light rain.  The combination of the late start, unpleasant weather, mal de mer and various other ailments made an early stop for some R&R an attractive proposition, so we detoured into Tinker's Hole.  Afternoon asleep, then quiet night.

18/6/00   0640 - 1255   Erraid to Tiree   32.5nm

A mix of sailing (SE3/4) and motoring (S1) in variable wind to Tiree.  We looked in at Hynish, but the SE4 onshore wind made it not really on.  We then had a look round the poorly charted S corner, but the SW side gave no better shelter.  A close reach then took us back NE to Gott Bay, where we found an anchorage which was just in lee of the pier most of the time.  Ashore, we hired bikes at Lodge Hotel (a protracted process) then cycled past the corncrakes up to the golf ball at Carnan Mor, the high point.  On the way back we stopped off at the other hotel, the Scaranish, for a pint and some decidedly dodgy musical entertainment.  Back at the Lodge we returned the bikes and had dinner before walking back to the boat.

19/6/00   0640 - 2025  Tiree to Mingulay, Berneray, Pabbay   50.7nm

A fine morning gave a pleasant sail with motor assistance through Gunna Sound against a contrary tide and light winds.  A wind varying between N1 and N3 meant a mix of sailing and motor sailing across the Sea of the Hebrides with Col and Tiree sinking into the sea behind as the Outer Isles rose from the sea ahead.  The original plan was to anchor at Berneray, but the beach at Mingulay looked OK so we diverted there.  After landing in light surf we did the round of the hills, looked down the spectacular bird cliffs, etc.  We discovered that dive bombing bonxies could be dissuaded by aggressive gestures - proving the old adage that all bullies are basically cowards!  Getting off the beach in the dinghy provided some entertainment, then we crossed to the "normal" anchorage in Berneray.  Although we anchored successfully, the onshore N4 made it uncomfortable, so we sailed up to Pabbay, anchoring in its S facing bay: reasonable shelter from north, but some swell.

20/6/00   0445 - 0625   Pabbay to Vatersay   8.1nm

We were woken by the boat's motion.  The wind had gone round to the SE and was blowing straight onshore at F4 and the visability was poor.  We left at once, motor sailing round to Vatersay Bay in an unpleasantly rough sea, with much wind and rain on arrival.  A snug anchorage was found, followed by a swift return to bed.  After a leisurely breakfast / lunch we went ashore in better weather for a walk up Heishival Mor, which would have been an island summit but for the new causeway...

21/6/00   1045 - 1340   Vatersay to Castlebay   9.4nm

A good sail round Muldoanich was followed by two unsuccessful attempts at anchoring: we therefore carried on to Castebay, picking up a visitor buoy.  We took on water and 20 l of diesel then walked up Heaval and Harteval followed by dinner in the pub.

22/6/00   0640 - 1445   Castlebay to Muldoanich, Fuiay, Eriskay    25.0nm

Motoring in S2 to Muldoanich, we then successfully anchored!  Quick up & down hill, then a mix of motoring and sailing up SE coast of Barra before motoring through the channel to Fuiay.  Anchor, up and down hill, then lunch.  The weather was now deteriorating in line with the forecast, so a brisk motor sail took us to Acarsaid Mor on Eriskay.  Two yachts departed just as we arrived, leaving a free visitors buoy which we promptly grabbed.  An increasingly unpleasant afternoon of wind and rain followed.

23/6/00   Eriskay

The wind blew NW 6 gusting 7 and the rain fell.  In the late afternoon it finally moderated enough to let us get ashore.  We walked over Ben Scrien and dropped down to the pub, Am Politician: an odd looking place, a bit like a private bungalow, with on display a couple of decidedly cloudy bottles of whisky from the famous wreck.

24/6/00   0615 - 1910  Eriskay to Loch Aline   73.0nm

After an early start we had a superb fast sail in mainly NW4 from Eriskay to the Sound of Mull.  Apart from brief assistance through a calm patch in the western entrance, the motor was not used until the Loch Aline narrows.  Quiet anchorage and dinner in the pub.

25/6/00   0945 - 1625   Loch Aline to Craobh   33.9nm

A pleasant sail down the Sound of Mull, mostly close hauled, at first, followed by motoring in calm from Craignure to Inch.  A final good sail from there to Craobh in W3 gave a fine finish to a good trip.

Summary: 266 nm logged in 51.7 h of which 21.3 motoring.  5.1 kn average.

6 new islands [although Eriskay no longer counts since the causeway was built].

6/5/00   1355 - 1915   Craobh to Loch Spelve   13.8nm

7/5/00   1000 - 1600   Loch Spelve to Craobh   19.1nm

20/5/00   1720 - 2000   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   13.1nm

21/5/00   1950 - 1300   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   15.6nm

3/6/00   1300 - 1645   Craobh to Loch Spelve   18.4

4/6/00   1840 - 1245   Loch Spelve to Craobh   21.3nm

1/7/00   0805 - 1510   Craobh to Ardminish   34nm

With Sandy.  Mix of ghosting and motoring in light wind, initially S1, later N1, gave a much gentler than normal passage down the Sound of Jura. 

For no very obvious reason the GPS suddenly had a mental breakdown, and in the process of trying to get it to go again all my waypoints disappeared.  Since I had spent many tedious hours in the winter putting them all in, this was disappointing to put it mildly and the cause of much bad language!  There were over 200 of them, all with 8 character names and 16 character descriptions as well as position, each character entered by scrolling round the alphabet.  (Although I had all the data saved on a spreadsheet, I never did manage to establish a link between computer and GPS to allow downloading.)  I do, however, keep a paper copy of the list on board, so I then spent a happy hour or two entering firstly the waypoints between Craobh and Gigha before starting to gradually replace the rest at a rate of around 15 per hour. 

Interestingly, doing this as a fill-in job while making progress in calm conditions proved far less tedious than I expected.  I have later found the same to be true with other slow jobs: hand stitching seams, repetitive splicing, and so on.

We picked up a visitor buoy and dinghied ashore.  The local sights were visited: Achamore Gardens (really a bit late for the roddies and azaleas) and the Ogham Stone before heading for the pub.  Slight problem: the hotel was bursting at the seams with a wedding party, but food was promised if we could wait for an hour.  While sitting in the sun drinking beer was clearly a great hardship, we manfully endured it - and indeed food did become available as promised - a real tribute to the kitchen, having just dealt with a wedding party of 70 or so.

2/7/00   0805 - 1510   Ardminish to Craobh   39.4nm 

Lively beat up Sound of Jura in NE4 against the last of the foul tide for a couple of hours then favourable.  Held over to SE side at top end of Sound to get flatter water in now E4, then through Dorus Mor and past the Reisas with the wind back at NE4.  Log stopped for 10 minutes but re-started by itself.  

8/7/00   0855 - 1345   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   21.9nm

9/7/00   1050 - 1345   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   12.3nm

15/7/00   0825 - 1345   Craobh to Craighouse   27.1nm

With Lorraine & John.  Initial NE4 soon backed to NW3 giving a very fast, tide assisted, reach down the Sound of Jura.  Early arrival meant we could pick up a buoy, but the wind was now NW4 and strengthening.  By early evening it was blowing F6 and still rising so we decided not to inflate the dinghy.  While cooking dinner we took pity on Pentland Rival, who had found all buoys occupied, and invited them to raft up (anchoring at Craighouse in strong NW wind is well-nigh  impossible since the only patch of reasonably weed-free sand is close NW of the off-lying island).  The boats lay together without too much relative motion and a most convivial evening followed.

16/7/00   1100 - 1630   Craighouse to Craobh   27.1nm      

A late start was accompanied by sore heads.  While the wind was predominately NW4, conditions varied widely with everything from flat calm to double reefed.  On arrival at Craobh we found the marina very full with all the boats for the start of the CCC 2000 rally.  We wandered around in the sunshine between pontoon drinks parties, admiring classic boats be-draped by scantily clad young ladies.  An occasional glance at the Mull hills was necessary to remind ourselves that this really was still Scotland and we hadn't been teleported to the Med.  Jim and Rosemary on Starlight were taking part, and we found them rafted up beside another tri.  We felt decidedly envious as we left for home. 

5/8/00   0830 - 1430   Craobh to Craighouse   32.1nm

With Gavin, Richard & Betty.  A SW4 gave a close reach with occasional tacks down the Sound of Jura.  Approaching Loch na Mile we had found ourselves being slowly overhauled by a larger boat who then took the route inside of the islands.  We stayed outside to use the last of the favourable tide then, heading for the entrance, motored at full speed while furling sails and organising mooring lines - ah, the advantages of a fully crewed boat!  These tactics successfully got us to the last available buoy 30 seconds before our distinctly dis-chuffed "competition" who, after hovering around just in case we managed to miss it, went off to try to tie up at the pier. 

We became aware that our little race was not the only competition going on.  We had arrived in the middle of Jura Gala and there were dinghy sailing races going on, followed by rowing races, swimming races, canoeing races...  Ashore we had a look at the piping and dancing and other celebratory on-goings, then went for a walk in the forest followed by dinner in the pub.  A relatively peaceful night followed, despite the celidh ashore: don't quite know when it finished, it was definitely still going strong at 0430, but only a lone piper played when we departed.

6/8/00   0615 - 1415   Craighouse to Craobh   42.4nm

An early start was needed to catch the tide.  On reaching the SW end of Jura the W4 had risen to W6 gusting 7 in total defiance of the forecast F4(5).  We had 3 reefs in, the visability was poor and the motion was distinctly lumpy.  The sub-plot for the weekend was that Richard wanted to buy a boat and he wanted to show Betty how nice that would be.  I felt that the present conditions weren't helping his cause.  Once we got properly into the Sound of Islay, however, things calmed down considerably.  Wth the boat still on a fast reach, but no longer bouncing around, the crew began to express an interest in breakfast - which I took to be a good omen.

Passage through the Sound was fast with the tide under us, then we tacked downwind up Jura's NW coast in increasingly poor visability.  Corryvreckan was positively Wagnerian: low black clouds formed a ceiling to the steep rocky walls of Scarba and Jura.  The floor was a swirling mass of water with dark upwellings and weird patterns of quite small, but short and steep standing waves.  It looked distinctly intimidating, but with the tide under us we were committed.  Betty asked, "Why are you going down the middle of it?" and Gavin and I simultaneously replied, "Because we don't like the sides!"  The actual boat motion was not, in fact, too bad, but the visual effects made the whole experience extremely dramatic.

As soon as we had been spat out into Loch Shuna the cloud cleared, and a perfect W3 gave us a lovely peaceful sail in the sunshine back to Craobh.  The weekend was successful in other ways too: within a few months Richard and Betty were proud owners of a rather classy looking 35 foot ketch.  

19/8/00   0605 - 1230   Craobh to Scalasaig   28.8nm

20/8/00   0955 - 1540   Scalasaig to Craobh   31.6nm

23/9/00   1150 - 1530   Craobh to Puilldobhraoin   16.4nm

24/9/00   1420 - 1700   Puilldobhraoin to Craobh   13.9nm

2000 summary: 696 nm logged.  6 new islands. 

Fuel statistics to date: 172.6 h, 205.5 l giving average endurance of 58.8 h.

Work / improvements: dehumidifier used over winter, cushions etc. left aboard with no apparent ill effects.

27-28/5/99   2110 - 1115   Craobh to Canna   78.9nm

Adrian and I loaded stores, filled water and diesel (17 l) and generally prepared the boat to go away on its holidays.  Mike arrived, then the new bosun's chair was hanseled as I made a trip to the masthead to sort the wind instrument.  This was another new experience, since with previous much smaller boats I had never dared try it - an attempt at climbing the mast would probably have resulted in a couped boat!  The view from the top was fine, but it felt very exposed.  15m doesn't sound much until you're perched at the top of it... 

After a good dinner in the new portacabin restaurant (byob) we set off in near calm conditions for our first night passage with Avilion.  An attempt to get through the Sound of Luing under sail alone was abandoned and thereafter we motorsailed across the Firth of Lorne and into the Sound of Mull.  Approaching the Mull shore around midnight, everything was suddenly lit up by a bright blue flash followed almost immediately by a loud bang.  On comparing notes afterwords, it seemed that Mike (who also works for the Electricity Company) and I had had the same initial reaction: "its a grid tower flashover!".  The lightening stayed with us for about an hour while we were very aware that our 15m aluminium pole was the only vertical feature for some miles, but we were lucky and suffered no damage.  In retrospect we should probably have disconnected electronics and put them in the oven, etc.

Our trial watchkeeping system worked quite well.  One off (in bed), one on, and one on standby (dressed, but keeping out of the rain unless needed).  Every two hours we changed round: on to off, standby to on, and off to standby.  In the now continuous heavy rain and poor visability we had a couple of fairly close encounters with fishing boats, and one very embarrasing incident where we nearly ran ashore at the Ardtornish Light.  (Lesson learned: each passage making waypoint should represent a navigable point in the sea, not the position of a land based object...)  I had previously prepared a sketch chart of the Sound of Mull showing all the lights, and I found this very useful in maintaining a general "feel" for where the boat was. 

Dawn found us in the western entrance to the Sound in a strengthening N4.  Past Ardnamurchan this gave us a fast close reach in the general direction of Oigh Sgeir, with prospects of a speedy passage across the Minch, but by now the increasingly bouncy conditions had all crew either feeling generally under the weather or actively up-chucking.  The morning forecast promised strengthening winds, so a decision to divert to Canna seemed prudent - and was immediately welcomed!  Entering Canna Harbour in N5 was interesting and the motion after anchoring still quite lively, but this did not prevent all aboard catching up on lost sleep.

29/5/99   1535 - 2110   Canna to Loch Skipport  35.1nm

After a bouncy night it was still blowing N6 when the time came to row Mike ashore to catch the ferry.  Life jackets were thought essential, rather than just for form's sake, and the row was hard work as well as decidedly bouncy.  After seeing Mike off, we briefly considered crossing to Loch Harport, but decided instead to spend the morning festering and keeping out of the squally showers.  This decision was vindicated towards lunch time when a couple of boats arrived from Loch Harport, driven out apparently by the weather.  Clearer, though still near gale force, weather then let us go ashore for a look around, a climb to the high point, and a return via the cliff tops.  The 1400 forecast showed some continuing improvement due, so we set off.

Although the wind had reduced, the sea was still quite rough and we experienced an extremely lively and fast close reach across the Minch, well reefed in a wind that varied, but was mainly N6.  Much spray flying, and the entrance to Loch Skipport looked initially quite intimidating but, once in, all the features opened up on cue, and we found a reasonably sheltered anchorage S of the island in Little Kettle Pool.  For the first time we had finally crossed the Minch!  

30/5/99   Loch Skipport:  Hecla and Beinn Mhor

Blue skies had us up and ashore early, and setting off across the moorland towards Hecla.  As we gained height the view just kept improving: the now light northerly air giving really clear conditions.  The tops of Hecla and Beinn Mhor were both surprisingly scrambly, and harder work than we'd expected.  We also somehow managed to miss out in both directions the intervening Beinn Corrodale, but we were rewarded by a clear view of St. Kilda looking very remote.  The tricky descent and trudge back over the moor were tiring and sweaty, so we were glad to use the last fresh water lochan for a bath - but the resulting wind chill while getting dried was something else.  Back aboard, dinner and drams followed in swift succession: this yacht based hillwalking lark was deemed a Good Thing.

31/5/99   0745 - 1740   Loch Skipport to Loch Maaruig   63.6nm

The SW wind, initially F3 rising later to F6 was ideal for making progress to the NNE, but in fact we tended to tack downwind in a series of very broad reaches.  The sea was quite rough and the motion beyond what the autohelm was happy with.  The boat was flying along however, scattering spray in the sun and for quite a few hours it was fun, though eventually this started to pale and we were glad of the sudden shelter on passing Scalpay.  We then motored up Loch Seaforth in rain and had considerable difficulty finding room to anchor beside the fish cages.  Once secure we had an evening of rain and rising wind.

1/6/99   1210 - 2010   Loch Maaruig to Rona   45.2nm

The reason for anchoring in Loch Maaruig was its proximity to Clisham, but in the morning Clisham could not be seen!  A cloud base below 50m and steady rain made the decision to "skip it" easy.  The forecast promised better conditions later so we left in the early afternoon.  We motored down the loch with a mix of calms and screaming cross winds then had a well reefed close reach in SW5/6 making good progress across the Minch and round the N end of Skye.  In the Sound of Raasay, however, the short seas made us slam, killing boat speed.  We therefore motor sailed for an hour before turning into Acarsaid Mor, which we had to ourselves: no other yachts to be seen.

2/6/99   1235 - 1805   Rona to Kyleakin   32.3nm

A morning trip ashore let us "do" Rona - with fine views from the summit before visiting Church Cave on the E shore.  Afternoon departure gave very relaxed fun sailing in the sun, tacking downwind in N4, until blanketed by Raasay.  The Cal Mac ferry, ready to leave, was very tolerant as we ghosted past his bows.  Regaining the wind gave another period of fine sailing until the wind finally died at the Crowlins.  Motoring under the bridge, we picked up a visitor buoy at Kyleakin and had dinner in the hotel.  This proved quite entertaining.  A large bus party was in and the tour guide had her work cut out trying to round up some of the more "senior" members. 

Meanwhile, at the table next to us, a group of German tourists was treated to traditional highland hospitality.  Mein herr had requested chicken.  A steak pie was delivered.  Close examination and muttering: "Vas ist das?".  On being summoned, the waiter confidently asserted, "Aye, that's chicken.  In a pie, like."  More muttering, then, with a shrug at the curious ways of the locals, the Germans got on with their dinner.  At which point another waiter, who had been prowling about at the other end of the room, loudly bawled in our direction, "Which wan o' youse has ta'en the steak pie, then?".

3/6/99   1140 - 1545   Kyleakin to Doune   15.5nm

A short expedition ashore for shopping, then we filled water bottles at the Youth Hostel.  Departure in very light winds, but enough tide-induced wind to sail all the way through Kyle Rhea.  At Doune we took on 20 l of diesel, some very peaty water in a bottle (which we decided not to add to the main tank if we could avoid it) then had excellent showers before an equally excellent dinner.  Quiet night.

4/6/99   0640 - 1650   Doune to Tobermory   58.6nm

Departure in near calm meant motoring to near Eigg, then a beat against a strengthening SW to Ardnamurchan.  This inevitably took time, but was followed by a pleasant sail in the W entrance to the Sound of Mull in a gently dying breeze.  After picking up a visitor buoy in Tobermory we had dinner and several pints in the Mishnish.

5/6/99   0850 - 1330  Tobermory to Craobh   41.0nm

A virtual absense of wind meant a motor down the Sound of Mull in patchy rain - which gradually became continuous.  I took advantage of the conditions to scrape some rather nasty brown "treatment" stuff out of the teak cockpit seats: the rain flushing away the debris well.  Thus passed several hours.  The GPS took some extravagent excursions to itself south of Craignure: at one point it claimed to have briefly visited a point 4000 miles away which involved multi-Mach SOGs!  After passing lots of boats coming north against the tide in Easdale and Cuan Sounds, we arrived at Craobh, took on 24.5 l of diesel, and cleaned up the boat.

1999 Summer cruise statistics:  371 nm logged in 64.5 h of which 32.6 h motoring.  Average speed 5.8 kn.  3 new islands.

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